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Introduction: The lost art of capacitors in airsoft The mythical powers of "capacitor banks" is not a new idea in airsoft, but the original sources and theories are lost in time, with only faint forum posts remain (all the links are dead in https://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/threads/capacitor-banks-revisited.8688/). In my pursuit of the ultimate trigger response in AEG, power supply remains a big unresolved issue because batteries (LiPo or NiMH) do not really give enough oomph for lack of a better word. We need something better, I thought, we need supercapacitors. And so I set out to rediscover the elementals of such dark magic from scratch (but based on the same principles). And I believe I have revived this magic which I will share my formula below. And dare I say, the surface of this dark art has not really been scratched, because the predecessors either did not use enough capacity (some examples were in the order of millifarads which is not nearly enough), and did not really use the correct type of supercaps (stacked coin cells hybrid types are not capable of high amps). And perhaps the right modules were not available until very recently, so this study will also represent a fresh look into this subject. If you want the bottom line: Why supercaps at all, isn't LiPo good enough? In short (excuse the pun), LiPo cannot provide sufficient peak current for the amp spikes during start of motor which is often in the region of 45-60 A. These micro-events of shorts (from the perspective of the battery) is also a main pathology of LiPo degrading and swelling over time. These spikes happen every shot in semi, and in the first shots in full-auto. This status quo practice of relying on abusing LiPo as sacrifice for performance does not sit well with me, because firstly it is electrically primitive, and secondly it is a safety risk in this toy gun industry that I think is unnecessary and should be done away with, at least as much as possible. The whole premise of using supercaps is to provide a voltage reservoir for surge power during these initial amp spikes. This is needed because these amp spike often exceed the capabilities of the battery (even LiPo) and the batteries drops voltage in response (for milliseconds) and unable to feed all the current needed for this initial spin-up of the motor. In theory, it can achieve the following: Surge power for much more responsive motor, resulting in snappier trigger response. Stabilised voltage supply for full-auto, resulting in better ROF. Protecting batteries from surge currents, prolonging their lifespan and minimise risks of LiPo fire. My evidence and theorisations are as follows. What is the actual energy requirement? To begin to figure out the solution, we need to ask, what is the minimum capacity to be effective? We can analyse these two graphs from airsoftlab.eu for theorycrafting. http://www.airsoftlab.eu/docs/experiments/motor_current/ To figure out the ballpark of energy levels we are talking about, I have picked two cases representative of a high stress build (with a 16 TPA motor) and a more optimal build (with a 28 TPA). The first graph is with 16 TPA motor, SP130, 13:1, to illustrate a typical suboptimal setup with a low torque motor paired with a high stress spring and gear ratio. The second graph is with a more comfortable 28 TPA motor with SP130 and 13:1 to show a more efficient setup. Just by eyeballing the graphs (and the blog), we can character these spikes (and the energy required to tame them) to be about 45A to 60A, for a duration of about 60ms. 16 TPA: 28 TPA: What do the numbers mean? There is a simple answer, and a more complex one. A simplistic way to translate this to farad (the capacity we need), using the 16 TPA setup as example, 60A for 60ms is 3.6 coulomb, which at 11.1V is about 0.324 F. For the 28 TPA example, this would be 2.7 coulomb, at 11.1 V this is 0.243 F. Therefore we can say our ballpark figure is about 0.25 F to 0.33 F as a minimum target. If we are aiming to create a unit that can work with worst case scenario, let's go with 0.33 F. However because supercaps discharge their voltage linearly (meaning their 11.1 V drops down to zero as it discharges over the 60 ms), we can think of it as sharing the workload with the battery in a 1:1 ratio (this is very simplified), meaning it is only doing half of the work while the batteries still need to supply the other half of the current (which is a big improvement already). Here is a prediction: In this predicted scenario, the amp spike seen by the battery should be reduced to less than half, because the supercaps will react faster to supply the spike, but as the supercap runs out of voltage, the battery will notice the difference in voltage and catch up, eventually supplying the full load in full-auto, but at a much improved stability. And as the trigger is released, the current stops, the supercaps are charged up again to battery voltage as the battery recovers from voltage sag. We can offload even more work from the batteries if we multiply the supercap capacity (say 3 times, to 1 F) so the they will perform in a 3:1 relationship i.e. 75% of the work are done by supercaps, which will stabilise the current even more. If we go bigger, say 1.66 F, the ratio will be 5:1, or 83% of work being done by supercaps. (The actual result will probably be better, the ratios e.g. 1:1 at 0.33 F are just conservative notional numbers I made up for ease of explanation. Supercaps are more responsive than batteries, and the overall lowered battery stress should further reduce overall voltage sag, so the battery should see less than 50% of the peak current, but I don't have the equipments to proof this hypothesis.) So let's say our notional baseline is 0.33 F, now we just need to implement this theory. Designing a supercaps unit Here is our goal: 1. Supercaps with total capacity of 0.33 F or more, bigger the better. 2. Voltage should be ok for airsoft usage. (Say a fully charged 11.1 V LiPo is around 12.6 V) 3. Overall size to be small enough to fit in a typical buffer tube, with room for cable management for most cases. Smaller the better. 4. (Bonus feature) built-in safety to drain residue voltage when unplugged. 5. (Bonus feature) LED to indicate presence of voltage. The obvious (and probably the only viable) strategy is to use 3 no. of 5-6 V supercaps in series to give us a 15-18 V headroom for the maximum 12.6 V we are expecting from a fully charged 11.1. The first problem is selection of supercaps. The second problem is designing the whole package that can physically fit inside the buffer tube. Long story short, here is my blueprint: (Just connect the supercaps in series, and then parallel with the batteries, I don't have a drawing) The Eaton supercaps I am using are the highest capacity that can still fit inside a typical buffer tube and wiring, and with one of the better ESR in its class, and can theoretically suffer 115 A of thermals over 60 ms, and tested to MIL-STD 202G for shock and vibration. They are wired (I'm using some fancy SPEC 44 16 awg wires) to a connector that goes between the AEG wire and battery wire, so it is completely plug and play, and removable for safety and for storage. It can in fact be stacked up (if you have multiple units) to give extra performance. For extra safety I have included a bleeder resistor to discharge the residue voltage in maximum 3 hours after it is unplugged. Also for safety (and aesthetics) I added an LED for visual indication of voltage presence. I am tempted to call it the PASTA 1000 (Pseudotectonic Advanced SupercapaciTor Array 1000 mF) but any suggestions welcome. Here is what it looks like in real life: Testing AEG: Specna E-19, completely stock (which has an X-ASR mosfet preinstalled.) Battery: 9.6 V NiMH, fully charged, measuring about 11.32 V when testing. This is just a simple A/B test to see if the supercaps work at all. I will simply alternate between plugging and unplugging the supercaps several times, then take measurements with groups of 6 to 7 shots, until the data are fairly consistent and/or a pattern can be identified. The groups are measured in Audacity and averaged and rounded to nearest millisecond. Also note I am not testing with any magazine inserted because A. that is not going to make massive difference either way and B. it is one less variable to worry about and C. if a BB goes off it is going to affect my measurements with sound. The results: Stock setup (without supercaps), group #1: Trigger response: from trigger action = 83 ms, from motor spin-up = [data missing] ROF: ~17.17 RPS With supercaps, group #1: Trigger response: from trigger action = 81 ms, from motor spin-up = 57 ms ROF: ~17.48 RPS (+1.8%) Stock #2: (I stopped measuring full-auto because it is getting too loud for the neighbours) Trigger response: from trigger action = 96 ms, from motor spin-up = 64 ms With supercaps #2: Trigger response: from trigger action = 74 ms (-23%), from motor spin-up = 62 ms (-3%) Stock #3: Trigger response: from trigger action = 90 ms (+22%), from motor spin-up = 69 ms (+11%) With supercaps #3: Trigger reponse from trigger action = 71 ms (-21%), from motor spin-up = 62 ms (-10%) Stock #4: Trigger response: from trigger action = 84 ms (+18%), from motor spin-up = 68 ms (+10%) With supercaps #4: Trigger response: from trigger action = 76 ms (-10%), from motor spin-up = 62 ms (-9%) Stock #5: Trigger response: from trigger action = 80 ms (+5%), from motor spin-up = 69 ms (+11%) With supercaps #5: Trigger response: from trigger action = 75 ms (-6%), from motor spin-up = 61 ms (-12%) Analysis of results: Definitely a noticeable audio difference in trigger response. The only way to describe it is it sounds more "instant" and there is less of the spin-up whine. I am not sure why the groups vary quite a bit (maybe battery and/or gearbox settling) but I think it is fair to say the supercaps are making a difference. If we average the data after group #3, with supercaps, the overall trigger response is about 14% improved, with the cycling time from motor spin-up is remarkably consistent at about 11% improved. The shorter lag time from trigger action to motor spin-up can be explained by the voltage stability provided by the supercaps. Overall I didn't know what to expect but I would say 14% improved trigger response is pretty good. It is definitely not a negligible difference, and definitely noticeable when compared side by side. But going by feel alone, it definitely feels a bit more snappy. ROF is probably improved a little bit, but more testing needed. The installation: This may be the only draw back. To actually fit the unit inside the buffer tube along with the X-ASR is a massive hassle, which I have to actually remove the original long heat shrink around the three wires to get them to flex, and re-crimp two out of three of the spade connectors to the X-ASR because they were damaged by too much bending. And even when the supercaps are in, it is still very stuck and you need to wrestle the wires to get the battery on and close the butt plate. Although I have done it with the stock fully collapsed and if I install it with the stock a few positions out, it will be easy. Once it's on, it works. But it is definitely not ideal if you have any in-line mosfet like mine. However if you use a proper mosfet inside the gearbox and just have wires in the buffer tube, it should fit very easily, potentially upping the supercaps to 5 F ones for even better trigger response. There is no noticeable sparks or heat or anything when install and in use. It simply lights up when you plug it in and it just works with zero drama. Here is how it looks like installed, with a fully collapsed stock, and without the stock: (it barely fits) To uninstall: If the battery is disconnected with just the supercaps plugged into the gun, the gun will barely able to do one shot and the second shot will be stopped by the mosfet because the voltage will have dropped too low. This is just as expected and fairly consistent with the maths. The LED: When you unplug everything, the LED stays on but slowly dims down over the course of about an hour (just as designed). This shows the draining resistor and the LED are all working as intended. I could also feel zero heat from the resistor, which is great and again matching expectation. The LED still visibly faintly glows even at as low as 2 V so it works perfectly for its purpose as a voltage indicator. The red LED is pretty to look at, although I might change the colour to something like blue or green, because the red can be mistaken as error from the mosfet. I might also move it to the "top" side of the "plug". Conclusion of experiment: The prove of concept is a success. Most importantly there is certainly a performance benefit (14% in my test). All the maths check out. The unit is fully functional and fully match the expectations. It literally is plug-and-play. The installation can be a hassle for wire management but that is purely down to physical space and should not be a problem if you are not using in-line mosfet. Conclusions and speculations More testing is needed with other setups, if you would like one for testing I can make you a copy for a fee. The tech tree can potentially branch into AKs or other platforms or even external compartments, but I don't have any of these for development. Here is a summary of what this device can do. The biggest feature for me is safety, because when the LiPo (or any battery) is shielded from stress they are much less likely to puff up over time and starting a fire. Another key thing is of course the performance. It works very well in my very first little experiment. Electrically the overall voltage floor and current ceiling is improved. Adding supercaps is a bit like transitioning from NiMH to LiPo, but on steroids. There is also where the drawbacks are, because a mosfet is probably a good idea for such power, and if you want to collapse the butt stock you will need a more advanced mosfet that sits inside the gearbox rather than the buffer tube, for cable management reasons. (If you copy what I did you will risk breaking some wires) In terms of use cases, it will benefit NiMH the most because the performance is suddenly brought closer to that of LiPo because the performance gap is effectively closed, making NiMH a viable option again. In fact it makes NiMH better than LiPo because NiMH is much safer. This is also a must if you are chasing the state-of-the-art trigger response or battery efficiency in any build. It will also help with cold weather performance. And the best thing is, this is essentially a "free upgrade" because it is an entirely new component added to the system, it does not replace or compete with any existing parts, and it doesn't need any complicated installation, it is literally plug-and-play. The only downside for now is with wire management inside the buffer tube to make room for it. I am not sure if there is enough space for guns other than an M4 but maybe you can find creative ways to fit it e.g. longer wires. This can potentially benefit rental fleets because it is the easiest upgrade possible with zero overhead on tech, plus it makes your NiMH or LiPo inventory much safer and longer lasting. The savings in overhead for battery management could be worth the investment. And when a gun dies you can very easily transplant it to the replacement gun. In theory, you can actually stack multiple units for extra performance (the only problem is finding the space to put them). Conclusion is, and I am probably biased, supercaps could be the next best thing in airsoft. If the space problem can be resolved. Please do comment if you spot any issues in the theory or in the blueprint. Thank you for reading.

Look what I found in Sports Direct today. Only £2 so worth a punt….

It's not a license 🤯

Your wife throws a grenade through the door of the shoe shop before rushing in and shooting all the mannequins?

Won't lose that in the leaf litter very easily! That's a good punt. #OrangeForTheWin (I seem to have lost my camo ammo bag, so "easily spotted" is an advantage not to be sniffed at) Never did get around to buying my bottle of Lynx Africa, so maybe this'll get bought instead!

To re-iterate whats been said before. (too late to the conversation 🤪) You have done well to wait until you have UKARA number and then not go out and buy the most expensive toys straight away. The Specna's you chose are good starter guns which you can upgrade or keep as backups in the future. They should perform noticeably better than the rentals as the hops are new and you'll be able to set them properly. Keep some budget aside for vests to hold the magazines etc, good ankle support boots, LiPo batteries and decent charger. (search for recommended in the forum) You probably know, your son will need a one piece full face mask.

I've taken pity on the chap and told him what he should actually be asking. I await the "I noew wut its wurth all day long m8".

With the lad being back from university, we went to Airsoft Plantation's Christmas Shoot today. With around 200 players present the site was busy, with a fair number of players dressing for the occasion. In the first game we, the red team, had to kidnap the other team's players in fancy dress from the village and get them back to our regen, gaining a point for each such player captured. Regular blue team players (those not in fancy dress) had two lives while we had infinite regens on the Firebreak. A group of us set off on a wide flanking manoeuvre and fought our way into the village in the face of stiff resistance. The lad got an excellent grenade kill on three chaps in a structure just before the grenade they lobbed at him went off. It was wonderful mayhem, during which we wiped out the defenders and captured a number of fancy dressed folk.. This game was then reversed and we decided to defend against anyone repeating our tactic. Having been hit, we fell back and defended against Blues who had captured the suburbs and were trying to push into the village from that direction. I was hit again just before the end of the game; the attackers were still trying to break into the village when the game ended. The next game involved collecting presents that Santa had deposited all over the very large site; some could only be collected by the red team, some only by the blue team and others by either team. The blue team apparently decided that the best way to win the game was to capture our repository at the DEA base so that we could not get any presents there; they sent a large force to do this, which they succeeding in doing after our players had transported several presents there. However, this seriously weakened their present collection team and they failed to collect enough, so we still won the game. During the latter part of this game, the MPi-KM started misbehaving so my contribution to shooting people was limited. Lunch followed, including a raffle with some rather good prizes including three pistols and several packs of pyro. We had ten tickets; two prizes went to players with numbers one lower and one higher than ours :(. After lunch, during which the catering van provided a proper Christmas dinner for around 140 of the players, we had to defend the mortar pits against the blue team; three presents were located in the pits and they had to get a pyro to each of them in turn and blow them up. However, only players in fancy dress could transport and use pyro. Attackers had infinite regens while defenders had two lives. The lad and I, with me now using my somewhat underpowered but long ranged MPi-AK-74N, which I had just finished building, started off in a favoured forward location, from where we put up a stiff fight before being hit. After falling back, the lad was shot by some of our own players, who seemed to think that a player facing the same way as them and shooting at the enemy must be an enemy. I fought on longer, potting attackers who were trying to mass behind the comms truck, before finally being hit. In the return of this, played in rapidly diminishing light, we attacked via the comms truck, with the lad carrying out a solitary charge with a pistol, and then getting down on his belt buckle and crawling along behind a berm like the trained semi-professional and Cambrian Patrol silver medal winner that he is. The game ended soon after this. It was a really good, fun day and it was good for the two of us to fight together again; we hope to get at least one more day in before he returns to university in January. On arriving home, I changed the spring in the MPi-AK-74N, which is now shooting at a pleasant 1J. I then decided to test the MPi-KM, which seemed to be running perfectly again! Weapons used: Me: CYMA based MPi-KM CYMA based MPi-AK-74N Cybergun M1911 Railgun (CO2) The lad: G&G C7A2 G&G GR4 G26 ASG Commander XP18 (CO2)

I’ve not been able to get an appointment at the surgery for six months, but I saw my doctor on Tuesday and showed him my haemorrhoids. However, he just ignored me and continued pushing his shopping trolley.🤪

I assume that you have a defence as in a UKARA number? As they only legal thing would be for them to post them to you and you be the "Owner" while they are in the country. it's illegal for them to bring their RIFs in to the country themselves with out a defence and they can't get one. to be honest with the cost of postage the risk of loss they are better off hiring at the site you intend to play at.

Fire-Support have had loads of money out of me over the years (probably tipping into the several thousands now) and I've not had any problems. They are one of the oldest airsoft retailers in UK.

Real Steel day today - had a good run too with decent stands. The ol' man was not having such a good day despite getting a two for one shot on his very first Pull. One stand had a low flying incomer that had its black underbelly facing you as it came out of the shade - so he had no chance with is ropery vision and was shooting the grass ten feet in front of him. His new shooting name is "Weed Whacker". LOL. Ended up beating him by 7 shots. 😎

All looking forward to the annual Xmas game at Ironsight Airsoft, 30 minutes in and my DMR shat itself, I think a stripped gear 😭 Still, a good day with my AEG, loads of my son's friends were there so he had a great time, and a great way to end the airsoft year.

If you want all metal, here's a cheap alternative hi capa that I've not heard anything about ... https://www.actionhobbies.co.uk/products/ec-5-1-hi-capa-gas-blowback-airsoft-pistol-black/ Absolutely no idea if they're any good, we need someone to be a guinea pig 😄

Thank you for the first solution seeing how tight the barrel nut was stock when I first took it apart I find it weird it could be caused but over tightening it But I got a razor blade that I stuck on the side it was moving when tightening it all and now it’s all good For the second issue, I looked around the gun and took it appart to see what I could do i tried sticking a thin layer of soft plastic from a zip bag under the screw, to act like an o-ring, and got something to have more tension in the spring that pushes the pin to get the clicks From the few shot I took it seems like working but I’ll have to test it extensively more to be sure I worked thank you for your help !

If you’re looking at the higher level Specnas, note that its only the Edge 2.0 models that come with a proper Gate Aster mosfet (this gives you all the nice features like active braking, pre-cocking, programmability etc). These start around the £250ish mark. The standard Edge models have an X-ASR, which is essentially nothing more than an electronic trigger contact. It has no extra features or configurable options. They come in some nice bodies but arguably aren’t going to perform any better than the £90 Flex that Fire-Support are selling. My choice when I had this dilemma earlier this year was the Double Eagle M906C. It has their Falcon mosfet in it. Not as advanced as the Specna’s Gate Aster, but it is programmable and has all the features I need. Its been rock solid over many games and thousands of rounds fired. I bought it thinking I’d upgrade to something better, but its dawned on me that in AEG terms at least there aren’t many more gains to be made. This and the rest of Double Eagle’s Falcon equipped models all hover around the £180-£200 mark. Would definitely shortlist them next to the Specnas. PPE wise, you’ll prob have to experiment a bit. The revelation for me were Revision Anti Fog wipes. I now use relatively cheap and comfortable Bolle eyepro, these would normally steam up very easily but the Revision wipes keep 90% of it at bay.

I've got one... Plastic guns They're sooooo much better than they used to be. Case in point, my original old school Tokyo Marui AK47-S was a creaky old thing with fairly unimpressive plastic. Contrast with my Double Eagle M904G which has a very solid polymer construction. There are of course still some poor plastic gats at the cheapest end of the ranges, but the mid-range guns no longer need to be discounted as rubbish, if you want to save weight they're perfectly respectable now.

Welcome back. Tbh I think most of the changes have already been covered except one. Nowadays you'll see far more people wearing gopro cameras trying to be the next viral thing I can't see why it would be, 99% of AEGs still use the same gearbox design as back then. The only real changes are that mosfets are more common (but not essential despite what some may say) and some now have recoil systems.

Welcome to the madhouse A more fun alternative is to find that trigger, spam it like a speedsofter and watch them explode 😁 The Specna Arms is a good choice as they're great value for money and can easily be upgraded later (if even required, it's very easy to spend a fairly sizable amount of cash for marginal gains). Seconded. It never ceases to amaze me how often people will spend hundreds of pounds on a gun but cheap out on other equally important kit, especially PPE.

I didn't. His only posts are sales posts (both of which are Mack's material) and has made no effort to bring anything to the forum so is fair game for a piss taking Edit: especially as he listed things as extras which come with the gun anyway

Probably more deans connectors in stock guns nowadays. We are no longer slaves to the backwards wired tamiya. Oh, TONS of options for VSRs. It'd be hard to recommend one brand in particular. Action Army hop unit is popular, but there's other TDC (top dead center) hop units. Stalker and sniper mechanic do good pistons and cylinders. EDGI Do excellent barrels. And maple leaf or flamingo hop rubbers are the usual go to. Not sure on the brands of trigger units, but there's some good 90 degree triggers about. Actually there's probably a lot more good sniper rifles on the market now. Silverback make the SRS and tac41, both excellent out the box. And ASG Do the steyer scout, which is generally considered the best out-the-box bolt action.

Read the title Thought it was one of the recent spammy witch doctor cnuts at it again 😂

If the power is down, that may well be an airseal issue (piston head O ring, cylinder head O ring, or hop rubber). Also, inconsistent power can often be an airseal issue.

Specna FLEX will be fine, and those Fire Support ones are a genuine bargain. The performance will be on par with a rental G36. They both have decent rotary hops, everything else is functional, but could be better. To get anything noticeably better I reckon you'd have to go to a gun with a fire control system like a Double Eagle M9XX series, or a Specna Arms EDGE 2.0, but you'll pay significantly more. You'll always want to be fiddling around, but it won't necessarily produce hugely better results. The FLEX will take all of the common parts like motors, hop rubbers, barrels, gears and such if you want to go that route. Or, with some more experience, you might end up relegating them to backup guns and go another route like AK, MP5, a G-gun, or whatever tickles your fancy. You'll rarely regret having a light, reliable, basic and unmeddled M4 in the bag or boot.

No worries, for some pedants it's a massive trigger😤😬, for the rest of us it's an excuse for a mickey take & a meme lol😜 PS, welcome👍

Rental guns generally have hard lives, but don't expect an OMGAMAZEBALLZ performance increase with an entry level gun. Slighty better - probably? The key difference having your own gun would be the fact that you can upgrade as time goes on. From what I've seen of the Flex guns (I've had hands-on at the Z1 showroom a few months ago) - they would make a lightweight and nimble platform for some modest upgrades (i.e. motor and hop rubber/nub) at a reasonable cost. Internally, they are the same as the CORE series. In fact - Fire-Support are flogging them for £90 here - which is the cheapest I've found: https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/specna-arms-sa-f01-flex-aeg-carbine-replica-black

Just filled in the paperwork for my UKARA. Exactly 56 days between the first three games! How's that for good planning?

When your gun doesn't sell for the same as retail price most people would reduce the price. Not this guy, he relisted it for £20 more

Mine is called Kim Kardashian as it's mostly plastic

Heard on site: "Stop climbing that tree, you've been told." "It's OK, I'm a tree surgeon, I do this all week." "Well, it's Sunday, so down you come." Shouldn't have needed multiple warnings, of course.

An increase in something but I'm not sure what. Or a more consistent something else but I don't know what. Maybe dancing girls throwing rose petals at my feet as my laser like BBs take out the enemy and lets me feed on their blood but i don't think a mosfet can help with that particular one! Ultimately, I dont know! 🤷‍♂️

I regularly refer people to the following diagram and i myself follow it not just for pistols by GBBRs too. As for OP, yeah most metal in airsoft is cheap Chinesium (POT) metal cast from moldings, only CNC'd parts are better but incredibly expensive. And there is much to be desired for the finishes in airsoft, TM cerakoating there MWS was an excellent move on the half. Also I own two TM M9s, one is a TM M92FS which was my first TM pistol (and my conversion to TM) and the TM Albert .W Model P01 (TM M9A1 with Resident Evil Blue Umbrella trades) love them both and whilst i still own my original TM M92FS i mostly use the Albert one. Ill never forget the day i tried my TM M92FS at my first skirmish, up till then i had used WE because "METAL SLIDE" 🤪 and was mostly just expecting the same shit range and accuracy. To see the TM M92FS shoot and the BB just going, and going and going in a straight line until i could no longer see it made me go "WOW, what is the magic in this?" 🤯

Been on my avoid list for a while ever since I went to a skirmish there once that didnt start till gone 11AM.....

No, I have some GBB's and I know they're fun to use... just don't see how they're harder. Adds to the realism but not harder. Again this adds to the realism, not difficult to carry an extra 1000 bb's & gas bottle (most of us carry too much kit anyway) a stream of 'white' bb's isn't hard to find the source (with the exception of single shots) true but trigger discipline helps which comes from experience (few new airsofters, will spend a wad on their first pew so more likely to use or buy an AEG). Yes, but not harder. again, yes agreed but all that comes from experience. I'm not dissing GBBR's in any way, I just don't think it's harder. My perspective is... I'm a newbie so 100% so far have played only using AEG's, I have a cheap two tone Scar-L that I love to use but after a few games I now bring a selection of pew's (all AEG's), to use in game. I've used hicaps & midcaps depending if I want a bit more realism & which kit I'm wearing, I don't usually carry a secondary but have recently added a gas pistol to my kit for those oops moments. I occasionally slip into spray & pray mode but less than in my first few games, I now consciously pick my shots more whether I'm using hi or midcaps or not(as a result of a spray using mid caps during an embarassing assault). It's probably no secret that I have a few pews in my collection, only a couple of my SMG's are gas powered but most of my secondary's are gas pistols, I know that at some point I'll get a GBBR to use in game (not to hang on my wall) but the cost of a single gas pew means I'll be more selective in this choice, which leads me to an earlier point... experience tells us what we like & how we want to play, what we want to use & even where we to play... owning, using & maintaining AEG's, GBBR's or HPI's is different in many ways but I don't consider any of them harder than the next. Welcome to my TED talk.