Leaderboard

Gonna wear my (just don't give) AFUK hat tomorrow. If anyone asks me my username, I'm going to tell them it's @Rogerborg and act like an arsehole all day.

Almost completely stock. Only mod is the yellow bed springs. I'll be upgrading the hot end to an all-metal jobbie at some point for ABS. Using PLA (for now). 0.16mm Layer Height. 100% Infill for the rails. Took ages but worth it.

Hello! how are you guys? I hope everything is ok. So... I koved to the UK in December, im originally from Portugal, played airsoft there for like 7/8 years and then stopped. As i moved into the UK the airaoft thing started to come back again... Me a nd a friend are thinking in renting for the first games so we can get the UKARA number before we buy our own stuff. All advices regarding to the UKARA are welcome. Thanks in advance!

Christ seeing this clip scares me, last game i went to I waited ages before shooting a guy as I couldnt see his arm band to know if he was friendly or not. I like to play using PID but this guy is just like every man for him self.

Meanwhile..... Overnight print done (100% infill). really pleased with the result. 10 Minutes of support removal, and another 10 to file/sand the angled front gives me this (The BUIS/Red Dot are placeholders):

Basically pull trigger when you leave safe zone,run like fuck and swing gun from side to side. Release trigger on re-entering safezone.🤔

Welcome . No problem asking for a lift; if you do not ask then you do not get.

I'm actually in Hitchin so if/when I do go to a local game in future I might be able to help - unfortunately I'm only likely to be doing one a month initially (hopefully!), and that'll be at Red Alert in Newbury due to UKARA-ing there with some mates.

@Speedbird_666 Very nice matey - 3D printing is one thing I’ve been very tempted getting into but I’m being blocked by the misses with either of the following “it’s too expensive” or “‘it’s just another fad” and being honest I wouldn’t know where to start with the 3D software (old dog new tricks..)

ABS is the way to go for airsoft. You can also use a bunch of those foam floor tiles from Halfords to make an enclosure. It helps regulate the temperature of the print which is important for printing abs

What about a contained unit, kind of like the type of thing gunsmiths use to check a gun is functioning without taking it to a range. It's a box with a small hole with rubber shields blocking it. You stick the muzzle of the gun through the rubber, fire of a couple of shots and the box and rubber catch any ricochets.

This video confirms to me that I've become a mid-cap snob. Running around a corner firing twenty shots to hit one person you didn't even know for sure was there, just isn't appealing to me.

i preferr my fantasy world where people are honest. although i admit yours is possible more attainable...... that's the idea, although point 4 onwards present the biggest challenges. hardest part would be reliable bb capture and getting the precision, of course if you coupled it with a regular chrono it might only need to be accurate enough to detect the liars. yep, i blame google, when you look up "fps calculator" it's all links to figuring out why fortnite is running slowly. yep,

In my fantasy world, we'd get in-game chronoed with 0.4g, then the tiny, tiny minority of people who come in over could get looked at harder, using the BBs that they've actually got loaded. If you could set something up for point-and-pew, that would give a clear, unambiguous reading, in any conditions, while being effectively maintenance free. Bearing in mind that there are still sites and staff that can't cope with the concept of Joules. But a borg can dream.

to expand for those who might be unfamiliar with the term, joule creep is the phenomenon that some airsoft gats (namely gas blowbacks, hpa and some bolt actions) can have varying energy outputs purely by changing what weight of ammo they're firing. so someone could chrono their gbb using a site's .2g's and pass chrono just fine, slap in the .4g ammo they normally shoot in-game and suddenly it's hitting a lot harder. needless to say many sites/people might not even know this is happening. chronographing on player weight does eliminate the issue of accidental use of joule creep, however it does allow (but also require the cheater) players to simply lie about the weight of ammo they're using. the jury's out on which method is better (using site .2g or player weight) which is why you'll see sites using one or the other. might reverse the tables for creep suseptible gats though, if you're in-game weight/energy is lower. you could keep stock of the common weights to test individual cases but that applies as much when using .2's as the site ammo. still think the ballistic pendulum idea has legs.

I know from experience that this effective at removing the Mk18 barrel nut. https://www.brownells.co.uk/MP-15-22-BARREL-NUT-WRENCH-TACTICOOL22-100015709. Just need to give it a few taps with a hammer to get it seated, but I've removed 2 Mk18 rails with it (with a generous amount of heat).

Great to hear that you enjoyed it, and also good that they were chronoing in-game. Did they chrono on site BBs (0.2g?) or on the ammo that folk claimed to be using? Every site I've played at has threatened to start games without waiting for tardy people, but none have ever - ever - done it. It winds me up a treat, but it's just a part of airsoft, where people pay to play, but then find any excuse not to.

So I popped my Airsoft cherry last night at Zmart Newbury and what can I say, I'm hooked! First off everyone was welcoming and friendly and happy to chat about whatever, handily I wasn't the only one flying solo which meant the 3 or 4 of us kinda formed our own group which was good. One of them leant me a torch which was very kind and also very useful (didn't see the replies to my status post till this morning!) and another had a very handy scoop for loading the mag too. The marshals were great all the way through, keeping things fun while also ensuring everyone followed the rules. There was a couple of issues I noticed, one where a couple of guys were arguing about taking hits which they seemed to sort fairly quickly and another where they noticed a guy who had a hot gun mid-game - looked like they did in-game chrono and were walking off to the safe zone so he could make adjustments to his gun. The guy with the hot gun was rumoured to be slinging .3's which is pretty heavy for CQB, what I can say for sure is he was the only one running HPA. Now I know with most things that require kit there's an element of faffing before you start but it did seem to go on forever, the marshals did note it at the pre-game briefing and said they'd be stricter on it in future. We got started with a couple of infection games which were a good way of getting to know the site and also in my case the gun, which was an M4 I believe (i really should have taken more notice of manufacturer etc), then a game where three marshals were essentially targets and each side had to revive them with the side with the most primary's at the end won and finished with a game transporting a bomb to the enemies spawn point. Can't remember if there was another or not! The games were pretty much the right length and as you'd expect with CQB there wasn't much waiting around between the start of the game and being in the thick of it. Overall it was a great evening, I'm peppered with marks where I was hit, but getting hit isn't half as bad as I thought it would be, took a couple at really close range (6ft) and they really stung for a bit but actually CQB is probably the worst it's going to be in terms of the sting of a BB hit. I was also really surprised at how few BBs I used actually - less that the thousand included in the rental - but I definitely saw people going through way more than me, there were guys using tracers too which I can certainly see the benefit of although they do give away your position.

Most games you can get a way with 4 mags (a large capacity speed loader helps). At CQB sites there are times when I have maybe shot 20rds on a game.

Looks like he changed the spring, that stock spring is weaker than a politician's promise. If the air seal is half decent, an M100 should get it up to at least a Joule. And barrel length just isn't that important. I accidentally got a surprising 1.3J out of an M100 with a stock budget CYMA gearbox, ZCI rotary hop and a ZCI 6.02mm 229mm barrel, just by nailing the air seal, and had to drop to an M90 to get down to 1.1J. On that, I'd check that the barrel is fully seated in the hop, shove it in like... a politician with a drunken intern. I really don't like politicians, I'm not sure if that's coming across.

I feel you, I take one look at an AK and suddenly the handguard comes loose and the front iron sight bents to the right or goes canted but I just want an AKS 74u that doesn't look like it's been assembled by an idiot or it's from Khyber pass 😂 I hate anything that has a drum mag when it technically shouldn't have a drum mag, come near me with one of those neon magazines on a 9mm M4 and I'll throw hands 😂

Careful now... It is HPA month

there isn't much difference in quality between cheap and expensive printers after you have dialed them in. Out the box the more expensive printers generally work better but a £200 printer can be tweaked to print just as well or better. There are 2 main types of 3D printers for the average joe. FDM and Resin being those 2 main types. FDM is a bit like squeezing toothpaste out a tube in 1 continuous line to make a 3D object where resin is very fine slices of resin stuck to the bottom of the last very fine line of resin. The main differences between the 2 is that resin has a much higher resolution so you don't generally see any print lines and it looks like it was moulded straight out the printer. FDM usually has print lines and you can print in finer detail so that these lines are less visible but that takes time so you have a choice to make between print quality and time to print. FDM printers can have bigger build plates up to 500mmx500mmx500mm generally but resin printers only manage about 192(L)mmx120(W)mmx240(H)mm for affordable models. both types can print in multiple materials so you have flexibility in making stuff. for instance you can print a rubber like butt pad in FDM or resin which will look and feel like rubber or you could print a silencer in ABS on a FDM printer if you are looking for strength. there is 2 other sides to 3D printing worth mentioning. If you don't learn a 3D design program you are stuck with printing other peoples models. Most programs are scary to look at when you first use them but a couple of youtube videos later it all makes sense. The other side is moulding from 3D printing. it's possible to design, print then cast in metal/2 part epoxy/gold/space dust a part. this is taking the 3D printing hobby a bit further but having a printer opens up that door. want a particular flash hider that doesn't exist or stupidly expensive? design it, print the prototype for testing then jam it in some plaster of paris and melt some old coke cans and pour.

Different types of printers. The smoother stuff you mention is likely SLS printed, which uses (frickin) lasers to fuse plastic powder together into a solid product. Not something many people can do at home, but there are plenty of SLS printing services available to small companies which allow them to outsource manufacturing for niche/short run products where injection moulding is not feasible. Here's an example, Badas designs makes drop stock adapter for various AEGs, they offer the same product in two guises, SLS print (outsourced I believe), and a 'normal' 3d print. The SLS has a fine grain texture to it, but generally looks more like a 'moulded ' product, whereas the normal 3D print has the layers (ridges) you refer to. There's also SLA printing for resin which produces fine detail prints (think Warhammer figures etc) but i don't think the outputs are particularly strong compared to the other methods (but could be wrong on that) .

This should be framed and mounted on the wall of every airsoft site in the country. if all played like this I’d be the original pig in shit ! 😁👍

True, that, and half the time they're doing it from so far back that they're thrashing the bushes 5 or 10 metres short of where they think they're hitting. However, the other half of the time they're doing it against advancing players who run into a hail of BBs the instant we leave hard cover. It's all part of the game, and I'm certainly not advocating semi auto for woodland. However, I do very much appreciate it when folk keep it to short, controlled bursts. When I was running a stock CYMA shooting 8 rps in a sort of generally downrange direction, I'd cheerfully hold the trigger down. Now that I've got some half decent toys, I'm much lighter on the trigger. Just because you can doesn't mean that you have to.

Indeed. I have great plans for a spare G36 I've got knocking around, but I need to tackle the fundamentals first (machine setup and tuning, designing parts etc.) so it's more of a long-term aspiration. I've been working through quite a few Fusion360 tutorials - I'm good with 2D drafting in CAD (Autocad & Draftsight) but wrapping my head around the 3D stuff has been a bit trickier.

Printers are great. You can print all the accessories that are too expensive, discontinued or don't exist. I'm at the point of designing full kits and guns. It really changes how you look at airsoft guns. They become the potential for something more, instead of looking at a gun and thinking that looks cool you look at it and think, what could this become? Hence why I'm picking up a tac-41 at some point to make a MSR kit for it so that I can own the only usable Airsoft MSR

Dude. Do you work at Dave's Custom Airsoft or something? This isn't a thread for stock images as you've previously been told.

I wouldn't make any distinction. In both cases, the only target you can hit is one that you couldn't see when you pulled the trigger. That's measuring twattishness, not skill: he's shooting dead players in the back willy nilly.

You could try wrapping it in a black bin bag and the next time you take the rubbish out........😉 It should work in daylight otherwise its a shot in the dark! 👍

Well, after raising the PayPal claim they finally sent my order. It is a shame though that it took the claim for them to actually send it after nearly 2 months. While the belt is very good I will not be doing business with FRV again.

Its pretty easy to adjust FPS on a GBBR even if there are no after market parts. In terms of options, I have listed some below in order of easiest to hardest. 1. Use weaker gas - no modification required just buy some HFC135A. 2. Fit a shorter/wider barrel. If you are happy to re-crown the barrel yourself (its pretty easy with a Dremel) you can just shorten the inner barrel you have a bit at a time until you get the desired FPS. A shorter inner barrel gives the BB less time to accelerate before the pressure disperses at the end of the barrel hence less FPS. A wider barrel will let more air past the sides of the BB reducing the pressure for a similar effect. Please be aware that cutting a barrel does not result in a linear drop in FPS (cutting an inch off of a 14 inch barrel will have much less reduction in FPS than cutting an inch off of a 6 inch barrel) and once barrels get below about 3 inches accuracy can suffer as the BB may not have time to stabilise in the air flow after the hop has been applied (the exact length at which these weird results will manifest depends on a number of factors such as FPS, weight of the BB, amount of hop, gas volume, but 3 inches is a good rule of thumb at 350 fps). 3. Fit a weaker valve spring. Your can buy loads of different springs on e-bay you just need the same diameter and approximate length and then its just trial and error on the spring strength/tension. A weaker spring allows the valve to close faster directing less gas down the barrel and more into the blowback mechanism. This has the double advantage of dropping the FPS and increasing the bolt cyclic rate, but a faster bolt can increase wear on the working parts. Note you can also cut the valve spring, but I don't recommend it as it is not a long spring with a lot of preload (unlike an AEG gearbox spring) and you still need enough spring tension to hold the valve fully open at the start of the cycle or cycling will become erratic so the scope for adjustment is quite limited. 4. You can made your own DIY NPAS using a small drill and a grub screw (there are several videos on YouTube). This effectively holds the valve partially closed so when gas pressure is applied in doesn't have so far to travel so closes faster (see results above). I hope that helps. C

You can shorten the inner barrel or purchase one with a wider ID. GBB work on a flute valve system resting on a spring, gas travels through the system and when enough presser is built up, the valve is forced forward redirecting the gas to propel the slide/bolt to the rear. Just like an AEG you can cut or use a softer spring in the nozzle to reduce the muzzle energy. You can use HFC134A (duster gas) to drop the FPS even further but you lose recoil and thus some of the fun factor.

I hope you’ve started looking at getting a refund from your card provider or from PayPal BEFORE it gets too late1

When I raised my dispute, they said I was the next order to go out, so I foolishly closed it. PayPal don’t want to know now, I may never see the belt or money again.