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Thanks, ChatGPT.

Yarp. Closer and closer to my "Ban us all" solution, I see. <excellent.gif>

As my old Tibetan Zen Sniper master said: “You have to think like a bush to become a bush!” ?

Time for some glitter retribution?

It do be true though.

People who still buy Ares deserve the horrible experience they get. Change my mind

Doesn't that scratch your screen?

Well that solves the mystery of who's been stealing from my washing line

Don't let people put you down. They told Beethoven that he'd never be a composer due to being deaf. Did he listen?

So early January 2024 we’ll finally see the ASG CZ p-10c Co2 version in stores across the UK. i’ve got my grubby little hands on one so anything you want to know. Ask away. key points so far: -2 versions, “vanilla” & “tactical” -Alloy slide -Polymer lower - hop up adjustable without removing the slide whilst the slide is racked -Safety trigger with a mechanical safety under the front of the lower - “tactical” comes Optic ready but includes rear irons in the box aswell. 14mm ccw thread - ambi mag release, optic plate & threaded outer all available separately - 3+ magazines from a single co2 bulb at approx 10c

Just realised , my pose here is the same as the “Cool as F” reaction emoji ?

TBH, I'm not sure.

Oh, ahoy and welcome and all that. You've very nearly got a good slap-fight going here about hop unit springs, that's a good start.

Thanks, interesting reply. I am going to play around with the variations of the two and see which one I like more

Like a painful lucky dip....

I use them in my LMG for the "lots to the everywhere" approach!

6 fucking years old Must be a record

This is something I've never heard claimed before. I'm not saying that it's wrong, but If there's more than a tiny fraction of a mm of movement then that's begging for feeding or air-seal issues as you change the nozzle-to-bucking distance. Also, plenty of us replace the stock spring in an M4 with o-rings specifically to squish everything together more tightly. My Specna EDGE is quite fussy, and its mags have different dimensions to most of my other random collection of M4/M16/STANAG mags. In particular, the distance from the front to the feed tube is a full 1mm larger than (e.g.) my short VN style mags. Having measured it, I knew that I needed to shim the front of the VN mags with the loop (fabric) side of some self-adhesive velcro tape, which has helped the feeding. But wait, there's more. Even the BB-stopper inside the magazine feed is different. The VN mag stopper goes further into the feed than the Specna one does, and there's a distinct flat section that protrudes into the feed, thusly. This can lead to the mag not wanting to insert at all as the hop unit feed tube hangs up on top of the magazine stopper, and needs a good wiggle to get it to actually insert. To ameliorate that, I very carefully filed and sanded the rear of the hop unit feed tube to angle it more. This helps it to slide into the magazine and push the stopper out of the way. The tl;dr version is: don't guess, observe and measure. Calipers and a magnifying glass or jeweller's loupe are better than speculation.

This fella said to me today: “Are those thick lens glasses you're wearing?” I said: “No, they're mine"

Welcome back to the sport; I’m sure a lot has changed since you left, but there’s a lot still the same too. depends where abouts you are in Essex, but Airsoft Plantation in Billericay is usually a good day out.

@RostokMcSpoons Oh yes spamming is a lot of fun (you should call it `suppressive fire`, that sounds more serious haha), I always preferred the sneaky flanky style and the battle rattle of 4 hicaps would almost certainly give me away haha! I think 400ish bb's is enough for me. Would you say those DE replicas are good enough range/accuracy wise out of the box? That's really what I am mainly concerned with, having a fancy replica is nice but if it doesnt shoot straight its no fun. The best replica I ever owned was an ICS g33 it shot so straight! It was much better than far more expensive stuff I owned. @Tactical Pith Helmet Thanks thats exactly what I am after!

Very happy DE M906C and M904G user here, great value guns! I would say I can get through 4 high-cap Lonex flash mags in a game (so I've just bought an extra one), but I am a spammy full auto player out in the woods, so if you're only semi-auto in CQB, two mags should do ya. A battle belt with a harness gives you the extra option of carrying a holstered pistol on your hip as God intended, so don't rule them out

This was recommended to me by several members on here. It's a nice bit of kit and apparently very hard wearing. https://www.flecktarn.co.uk/odtmb2nx.html My lad has an 8 Fields plate carrier that he's had since the year you stopped playing. For about £20 it's still going very strong.

`Ah, yes! I had completely forgotten about the pataphysics of HPA according to that particular individual.

And of course 350fps with a .20 BB will break your rif or your fingers if fired from an HPA set-up. There's a full account on here if you care to look. ?

Yes, proffrink is looking at what is best to deter/restrict the spammers.

Welcome back ✋ Yeah I think many here would say the M908B is a good starter. You can also consider CYMA and Specna. (Many threads talking about this subject) There's LOADS of choice for chest rigs and pouches. Look at ebay and army surplus to get the cheapest stuff. It can take a few tries to get something you like as needs change. Check out here for sites near you: https://playairsoft.uk/map

I say "bring back the bush"....... Are we still talking about Airsoft ? ?

Replying only cause I would like this thread saved for future reference; there’s some amazing stuff on here thank you all!

Must have trained under Grasshopper coz a bush was deffo a 1970's thing.

It’s the way forward…. It’ll save my marriage and my bank account ?

Colour Coding this week

@Dan Robinson Thanks for the info! Not a word about the ICS ?

Well, the wee helmet still hasn’t replied to me Tempted to send him a couple of breeze blocks now if he does ?

That'll be the "divine wind" imparted on the BB by the super Ninja Bucking that Gaijin clones are not allowed to use. They're a sneaky mercenary lot over there. Trust me - I know.

There are a lot of factors that have an effect on the physics of a ball being propelled out of a barrel FPS is the velocity in ‘Feet per second’ of the projective, normally measured at the point of exit from the barrel Joules are the measurement of the energy, and are calculated using the velocity and weight of the projectile (Chronographs measure the velocity and particular chronographs can be set to display a joules value based on set weights of BBs Beginning with the initial force imparted in the chamber from the spring and cushion of air, the projectile then accelerates along the barrel but also has friction resistance along the way. It seems to be common sense to assume that as the energy being put into the BB is the same, that a heavier BB would be slower (taking more force to push the heavier weight) and resulting in the same energy coming out - but in reality the combination of everything can vary the results - and ‘joule creep’ becomes a term - that by changing one factor (the BB) can result in a greater resultant energy as the BB exits the barrel ……….. Loose (overbore) / tight (underbore) / matched bores all have their own effect inside the barrel ……. And then even the flight can have different experiences My world is paintball, and we have those who swear by all of over/under/matched bores - and then we have different circumstances on how the paintball itself acts in the barrel - With overbore a paintball could float on a cushion of air or bounce around - some of the air is ‘wasted’ but still contributes to how the ball flies With underbore a paintball could be squashed (and if excessive can break) - when the paintball squeezes its way through the barrel all of the air behind it contributes to the energy imparted ……. No matter whether it’s a plastic BB or a gelatine paintball, the initial muzzle velocity is just the start (and is the metric that complies with the rules) The remaining velocity / energy upon impact varies based on its flight along the way. Which can also depend on how it went through the barrel and anything such as a hop up. The energy could be maintained in flight, or it could quickly drop. Optimum spin could maintain a ‘straight’ flight that hits (almost) where you pointed up to a set range then quickly drop, or you have a predictable curve that you need to compensate for at the targeted range - or it could just spray wildly in various random directions

If you use a weaker spring it's likely that the piston won't whack the cylinder as hard making less sound giving you the impression it's less powerful than the brass barrel. Your brass barrel may not have been 6.03 even if it says it is. It sounds like all is working as you'd like so now's the time to play.

Obviously, there is a slight power and velocity difference between 1.06J and 1.09J; however, it should not really be noticeable. Are the barrels the same length or is one significantly longer than the other? The 0.24J power change is pretty hard to explain unless you have gone from a short, wide bore barrel to a long, tighter bore barrel. A weaker spring and a tighter barrel is usually better as it puts less stress on the gearbox, unless the combination of a weak spring and a fast motor/gear set leads to overspin, which can be cured with an AB mosfet anyway.

1.09j to 1.33j is a pretty big jump, was the new ZCI the same length as the stock? Have you measured your stock barrel inner diameter? From my recent tests, one thing for sure is very few inner barrels are actually what they say they are.

So why did you change it? It's probably more to do with the specifics of the barrel and hop rubber than anything else. Joules are joules, FPS is FPS.

Deleted ?

My eldest son runs Dye I5s: They are on the smaller side of Paintball masks - I can't use glasses with them - but I have a big wide head so I use Empire E-Flexs instead. You will probably get some glasses fogging issues under the mask, my middle son and I use goggle fans connected to a poundland powerbank mounted on the goggle strap, which pretty much completely eliminates it. Paintball goggles + Fan unit has been by far the best combo that I have found over the years for eliminating fogging when using glasses.

More AAP & Capa vibes

UK https://www.CaffeineAirsoft.co.uk https://www.ascensionresearch.co.uk

Bit of an update on my feldwebel 7. Company II battalion 125 regiment panzergrenadier of 21 panzer division kit for 1944-45. Looking forward to normality returning next year so I can go to WWII events again ?

My main load out is 8fields Partizan/SS-Leto camo chest rig, Partizan/SS-Leto camo top and trousers, AAC T10-S quickly painted with Halfords spray cans, G&G RK74-E recently sprayed up in Partizan/SS-Leto camo (not a great colour match but hey ho I tried), pimped S&T PPSH-41 (had to rebuild the whole gearbox after it broke after 100 shots..) and an SRU PDW kit for a WE G18c. Recently got the AAP-01 assassin but not used yet. (Edit- SS-Leto added)