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Just to clarify the legal situation: removing the bright colour or covering it with tape or paint is referred to in law as "Manufacturing a Realistic Imitation Firearm" which is illegal unless the defence applies to you. In order for the defence to apply to you, for our purposes, the RIF must have been manufactured in order that it be used for airsoft. Neither the law nor the guidelines actually define what the legal test is for whether an RIF was manufactured for airsoft or not, but a photo of you using it at a UKARA registered site is without any doubt at all proof that you did in fact use it for airsoft and being a member of this forum before the deed was done proves interest in airsoft, so any potential prosecutor would be hard pressed to convince a jury that the intention to use the gun for airsoft was not present at the moment of manufacture (BTW this applies to anyone regardless of age: u18's cannot buy any AEG's 2-tone or RIF, but they can manufacture them legally). None of that actually matters however, since the Association of Chief Police Officers stated that the VCRA, as it applies to us, is unenforcible, which is no doubt why there have been no even attempted prosecutions for de-two-toning AEG's. Just to be on the absolute safe side, you could take your two-tone to a skirmish at least once before you strip/paint it, but if i were you, i wouldn't bother. The law is an ass, but it is the law and we must abide by it. That does not mean however that we must make life more difficult for ourselves than it need be. You cannot buy an RIF without a defence and in your case you cannot get proof of a defence without a gun, so buy a two tone and strip it immediately. As our sentencially challenged mate Duck says, Fairy Power Spray does work, you just have to also apply some elbow grease. Painting over two-tone is a far less satisfactory solution for several reasons: paint costs more than power spray; even if you use several coats of paint and varnish it will get scratched and obviously bright colours show up through even minute grazes, particularly against black, and look decidedly less than cool... ...which is important because looking cool is not only good for the soul in general, it is very good for moral, specifically when you're in a timed game and knowing that you are TDB and you are going to conquer and get some, etc is what is going to make the difference between your team stuck behind hard cover taking pointless pot shots at extreme range against enemy also behind hard cover, happy to run the clock down, and 2/3/4 of you leap frogging across the distance using minimal cover but suppressing the enemy with concentrated fire on their cover by those not moving so the mover/s do/es/n't get hit, who then take/s over firing as t/he/y hit/s the dirt, and so on until one of you pops round the enemy's cover and ends their participation (soldiering 101: Violence Of Action intimidates the enemy & starts with moral). Plus a completely de-two-toned gun has more resale value than a painted over two-tone.

I just bought a new suppressor for my Mk23 to replace the one I lost at The Mall a few weeks ago. Just £25 from Taiwangun, and it came with a free pistol and magazine too!!!

Just got hold of a Krytac CRB, thought I'd throw up a quick initial impression by way of pros and cons. Hope this is useful for anyone considering buying one. Pros: - Good packaging, manual. - Hi cap mag and iron sights are decent quality - External build quality is very good (with a couple of exceptions below), on par with G&P, VFC etc - Keymod rail makes for light weight - Stock is very good with some well thought out features - Internals are excellent - arguably the best v2 gearbox design around combined with top quality gears, piston, etc and integrated mosfet - UK version comes with M100 spring (shooting ~340fps with hop off) - Price compares favourably with AEGs of similar quality (G&P, VFC, etc) Cons: - Wired with Tamiya connector (FFS why?) - Flash hider is plastic and cheap looking as well as hard to remove due to being glued on - Grip is shiny and cheap looking - No rail sections included for the keymod - Motor is weak Closing thoughts: Overall I'm pretty pleased with the CRB. It's light weight, well built and has a top notch gearbox. My only gripes at this stage are with the flash hider (promptly removed via a hair dryer and a bit of persuasion and replaced with a stubby suppressor), the grip (promptly replaced by a MOE) and the motor. I don't know if they ship with a different motor in the UK as I heard good things about the stock ones, but it very weak with sluggish response (compared to my other AEGs) and tons of overspin and a tendency to heat up quickly. Very disappointing. Luckily I had a spare SHS high torque laying around which has sorted things. Anyone thinking of buying a Krytac should factor in the cost of a decent motor. I'll throw in an updated review after skirmishing the CRB a few times.

Ultimately it comes down to whatever floats your boat. Some may sneer at milsimers (SAS wannabees, etc) but their having fun doing what they are doing, same as people who just enjoy skirmish games. I do a bit of both and enjoy them for what they are. As to folks paying ridiculous money for kit, it's their money. You wouldn't laugh at someone buying a BMW over a Kia.

On average I'd say yeah, less than a paintball hit, but a pinch? Dunno - it depends how hard you pinch, or where on the body, assuming you mean grabbing a bit of skin between thumb and forefinger (rather than, say, getting a bit of your finger caught in a piece of machinery so it causes a blood blister)... but it's not really equivalent anyway, because I've only ever been pinched by surprise. I mean, even while being tickled, so the physical contact isn't a surprise, the sudden change of tactics makes the pain unexpected and thus worse. When you're skirmishing your adrenalin is amped up, so even hits which break the skin don't bother you anywhere near as much as they would if, say, you sneaked into your brother's room and shot him in the bare arse after he'd just emerged from the shower, for instance (which action we, as a responsible forum, would never condone nor encourage since neither he, nor possibly you, would be likely to be wearing eye protection). However if you did and could somehow convince the hapless yoot to indeed wear eyepro into the shower, the warm, freshly scrubbed, buttock would very likely sting more from a 0.2g BB @270FPS from 5m than it would from an average non-bruising pinch. Even in the middle of a skirmish, a similar hit to ungloved fingers would sting enough to make most people yelp and/or swear, but onto a sleeved arm, you'd be far more bothered by the in-game consequences of being hit (the walk of shame or yelling for a medic) than the momentary pain. ...this hit was from a 0.2g BB @365-70FPS from 6-7m It resulted from a BB getting between a loose lower face mask bouncing away from my goggles opening and closing a gap as I ran. It did sting, but not much - less than a pinch, but it didn't half shit me up because it was so close to my eye and I could feel the wet blood running down my face. The pic was taken in the safe zone around 15mins later, after i had wiped my face with tissues and water in the field, so it doesn't really demonstrate how much it bled. I mean at worst there were multiple points where it was dripping from my beard. After the initial WTF moment had passed however, the blood itself was the only issue preventing me from just regen-ing (a marshal didn't want me carrying on until the bleeding was under control) and getting straight back into the assault on the fort, which had been stalling a bit until a handful of us went in on a banzai mission which proved enough to turn the tide, so my team were then hitting the enemy so fast that it sounded like the only thing slowing them was having to wait for dead-men-walking to get down the 2 single file staircases to the upper level, so the last few die-hards could be rooted out... all of which i mention for context, ie my adrenalin was pumping good stylee! I literally barely felt any pain even though the hit pretty much destroyed the dermis layer so I have a permanent BB sized crater scar... BTW, this is not me giving it the Billy Big Bollox - anyone who'se been into airsoft for a while will tell you the same: we've all got our tales of the real zingers that either left permanent scars but didn't hurt, or contrarily left no glory but nigh on crippled us at the time

If they only use their BMW to go to a club once a month where all the other people with BMWs pretend they're racers then of course I'd find it amusing. But you're right, it's their money.

To prepare for winter I put an extra fleece layer under my camo job done. People make out our winters are really cold when it's not actually that much different from summer. Usually it's just wet, windy and miserable just like summer.

Not as badass as crossing your wrists with a torch in your left hand and your pistol resting on it in your right...

I thought that was intentional camo, not a real clegnut... yer dirty barstid!

Boys and their toys crap.... Toy guns are similar to the cars we drive or floats your boat You could go out and buy either a Ford or a BMW say... You "could" upgrade the Ford to perform better than the BMW But even though the Ford will be much better performing - it will STLL be a Ford (even if it had a BMW lump in it) If you want a BMW and got the cash then get a BMW if you like the Ford wanna tweak it - fine go for it I don't give a crap really - I'm off to fit some bitching neons to the underside of my Ford G&G's and get a Kiss FM sticker / patch Hoping to get a pic of my gun with some girl showing her jugs off in next months Fast Gun Magazine Jeeezzz - am I really that sad - YUP

Real cap mags are for that extra realism i guess. But i think being that its all toy guns, i might as well treat it like a segal movie and not have to reload for an unrealistic amount of time lol Going to my first milsim with okto 8 in december and have a longmoor game next week. Personally, i dont enjoy haphazard nature of a skirmish. I want an objective. Still, its toy guns, and choice.

Good lord, no! Work somewhere that isn't air conditioned and upholstered? Are you mad?

Er, what's your point? You've just said you have no alternative if you can't rent. A lot of people buy new furniture that isn't painted - i.e. new handguard and stock (not more than £50) or use the power spray. Again, it does work even with Krylon 2-tone jobs, but it takes a long time and a lot of people just give up or complain that it's not working.

It was only one little cling on. You must of been having a real good look!Pervert, I feel violated.

I'm left handed and right eye dominant and shoot rifles right handed. For me I actually find it harder to shoot rifles left handed, but with pistols I prefer my left hand which is ideal for dropping a rifle on a sling to draw your pistol. I guess it comes down to what is the most comfortable for you as I really struggle to aim down sights shooting rifles left handed for whatever reason.

You can swap the bolt handle for a left handed one by buying an aftermarket one on the VSR-10. Two things though: Firstly, if you're new you should very much consider other options for your starting gun if you want to skirmish it. Secondly, if you're right eye dominant then is a right hand setup not better? It should be much easier to cycle a bolt with your less dominant arm than have to use your weaker eye. Edit: Whoops - I was thinking of an L96 left-handed handle I'd seen. Ignore the bit about an 'aftermarket part'. It can be done through modding the stock one though. Also, I notice you've already bought the VSR in question (if your profile is accurate), so feel free to ignore the advice about not buying one as a starter too. It's mostly about technique anyhow - there's no brass flying out that's going to hit you in the face so being left handed is fine. I've never had an issue cycling my L96 left-handed, and I've been shouldering it on the left too as I prefer to use my left eye.

They are becoming quite popular. Lots of bang for your buck.

Those Cyma M14s are nice guns, I know a chap who has just swapped the hop rubber to a TM one and fitted a tight bore barrel and he has one of the best effective ranges on an AEG that i've seen.

To be fair, anyone waving an airsoft rifle around in the street deserves to get nicked. We all try for our guns to be as badass and realistic looking as possible, so its not really on to wave it around, terrify people and expect them to know what it is. All that aside......just buy a good rifle, get it two toned. If you buy from patrol base or land warrior, then they two tone it very nicely. They pretty much guess it will be changed and only do a few big easily changed bits. Then, apply power spray, soak and strip. If you dont like hard work, buy kraylon, and then spray it. Leave it to dry and harden over a few days, and put it back on the gun.

Baofeng UV5R radio and TMC Mittsu-D chest rig

Skirmished my new Krytac today, my motor was fine unless I pumped multiple semi shots in a row, in which case it got quite warm. But that was more my fault for not using the full auto. Paired with some Lonex flash mags it did some damage today haha. Very happy with the purchase. - Ant

yeah tried that at my local game yesterday and i didnt feel any difference also tried cleaning my barrel. but with my new job i should be able to afford a new gun soon ish

it is the weight or mass of the bb/projectile normally min 0.20's are used - often 0.25's or heavier maybe by some the lighter 0.12's don't always get felt under layers of protection/clothes very easily also lighter bb's tend to be fly off course over distance so for wimpy players playing close up 0.12's are ok this where the " BB " sites specialise in crappy lower quality/price plinkers which is fine for that Problem is that they tend to make the younger or newcomer believe these plinkers will be ok out on a skirmish site They won't - 99% of them will put you at a disadvantage, some more than others your £10 pistol has to be cocked everytime to fire, might only shoot say 240fps on 0.2's - maybe less coz often figures are max fps quoted even on cqb sites that might be single shot at close range guns can still shoot say 7+ shots per second on semi with a decent trigger finger/gun so you may scape 2 shots per second if lucky in a fire fight but people do have a go especially if they like a challenge or wish to humiliate them using a crappy jbbg just don't go nutz or get too stressed if ya get owned by a more proper gun/toy gun This is supposed to be short thread so I'll just say 0.12's hurt the least if that stings too much - then best wait a few years or man up a bit

I wear more or less the exact same thing throughout the cold months. Although I do carry my Flecktarn parka for those sitting around games and the safe zone so I don't stand there freezing my arse off whilst listening to the safety brief. However, thanks to global warming; I might apply the sun cream and go out in my shorts

It's about how it looks. The law is there to make sure realistic looking guns aren't sold to people they shouldn't, and that even the unrealistic ones aren't sold to minors. So yeh, AEP, GBB or just a gas pistol, springer etc. - it's all the same. Can't buy if you're under 18.

I switch to Pyrohide & Kevlar gloves, but since my nerve damage has got worse and the cold seriously aggravates the pain it causes, I'm planning on getting some Russian winter gloves. I also always take my DPM Goretex kecks - don't always wear 'em, but I really hate standing around in wet kecks in the cold these days. Somehow a wet top doesn't seem to bother me. As PT said it can be a blessing to help cool me down, but it doesn't seem to work the same way on my legs. I don't like the amount of noise they make when moving, but this year, if i can get fit enough to return to the field before spring, I'm going to try wearing 'em under my Russian SS Leto camouflage and maybe also my KZS as they're both nice and baggy, although the KZS may be substantial enough to hold so much water that I freeze regardless of Goretex and longjohns underneath. I'm currently researching gas for my pistols - I have a CO2 USP NBB to fall back on, but I want to be able to skirmish my Tokarev TT33 and my new P.45 Match. Does anyone know if the likes of Guarder Powerful and Nuprol 3.0 & 4.0 blow the seals of ordinary green gas mags if the temp is warmer than the cold they are intended for? I'm thinking about room temp, say 20deg, ie gassing up before I leave / having to empty them before i return. I was thinking of starting a new thread (and i may yet) but so far it seems on topic in here. What are people's experiences of Nuprol 4.0 Black in general?

I thought it was as good as an Shs but not as good as say a lonex. Still think it sounds like an issue. Got to agree with the grip its horrible. Actually I was wrong it is neo apparently I thought it was ferrite my bad.

As Ian said depends where you get hit. They can hit hard sometimes I have had my finger fractured.

Think you might need to take it back. The krytac motor is probably the best ferrite motor I have seen in an aeg. Your one sounds faulty.

SOZ - MODS PLEASE DELETE THIS COZ IT MIGHT MUST OFFEND... for TriggerHappy: Sorry was trawling for guns n girls pics & this frightening pic turned up Now seriously considering giving up airsoft now - I've been scarred for life Soz, no more pics and sorry for derailing yet another thread

No collection is complete without a tri-shot.

Bacon and egg baps for breakfast... meal of heroes. Perfect start to the cold winter morning.

Unless you are the sort who just wants to buy a gun that will work well and not need to be messed with. A lot of airsofters dont like the techie side.

I wear a lightweight jacket but that's about it. Half the time I just wear that in the safe zone as standing around in the safe zone is normally where you get cold.

http://www.patrolbase.co.uk/airsoft-m4-m15-m16-variants/krytac-trident-crb-black.htm#.Vf2rdZ5wbfs http://www.wolfarmouries.co.uk/airsoft/bb/product.asp?page=product&id=R451 http://www.landwarriorairsoft.com/airsoft-weapons-c38/electric-rifles-c45/real-sword-type-97b-p3099

Just picked up a G&G GC 30th anniversary as a base, then I intend on stripping it and starting over, as I've had suppliers send me parts to help with the build I'll be making the thread as a beginners guide to HPA, calling out where i got parts, what parts I recommend, any issues I've had and general FAQ's I can cover since starting in HPA. Hopefully will start on wednesday once the gun turns up. Aiming for a DMR build

ditch the chest rig for my osprey body armour

You've already opened a new thread and now you're posting here again? Please have some patience - people do other things besides visit the forums.

I put in my massive man balls and get on with it. Obviously none of u work outside for a living! Lol.

If your trousers cost more than your gun then you're probably playing milsim.

As said above. A G&G CM16 is the cheapest rifle you can get - anything cheaper is not worth having. Get two tone, maybe some camo tape to conceal it for your first couple of games and then remove paint with Fairy power spray or switch out the furniture with some that hasn't been painted.

Air behaves differently to propane when pressurised. Propane under pressure becomes a liquid so that the gas above the liquid stays at the same pressure, replenished by liguid vaporising to add more gas. If you fill a mag with air, it will not liquify so each shot will have less power then the one before. The only way to get HPA to work is by having a tank with a regulator.

could not resist some inert link on my A&K M249 para

could have wiped your arse first though... eurgh!!

Yeah that's with the suppressor. You can take the suppressor apart to get rid of the inner barrel inside - that's what spikes the fps to DMR levels. For mine I brought the 16mm thread adapter and used a regular short silencer I have since added some baffels to. Drastically reduces the sound output from "quiet" to "are you sure someone's even shooting at us?" FPS on green gas is around 1joule or so without the suppresor though.

This is the one pistol I have (so far) kept longer than 6 months. Surprisingly good bit of kit for a very low price. Also very easy to upgrade since it takes vsr barrels and buckings. It's got to the point that I often take this to sites instead of my other more expensive rifles/pistols because of how reliable it is. Quality control isn't as great as a TM (particularly with the hop up) but the mags are much better/cheaper and don't need modifying to hold green gas. All the mods I've done have been made with the intention of getting it to be as quiet as possible and only now am I changing around the internals to squeeze even more performance out of it. Definitely worth the £60 (UK price new)/£35 (Poland) price if you get the chance to buy one. Only issues I've had are with the mags jamming - but that happens with the TM mags as well.

2x Maple 70 Degree VSR buckings @ £7.99 each including postage - eBay Table Clamp @ £4.99 - The Range Tube Cutter @ £1.99 - The Range Magnetic sheet 0.5mm width @ £1 for two sheets - The Range On a bit of a DIY mods spend today! The buckings are for my ASG mk23 pistol and my Well mb-02 sniper rifle. Looking for something that gives a bit more performance than the stock parts both do. At £7.99 a pop, and with Maple being a well recommended brand, I thought it was worth a shot. The tube cutter and table clamp are there because I intend to cut down a vsr inner barrel to fit my mk23 later on (after I acquire a barrel). The magnetic sheets will also be used to fix the feeding issue that occurs with my mk23's magazines - a single strip down one side of where the BBs sit will stop them getting trapped (or so I hope). If it doesn't work then I'm only down £1 and however long it takes me to fit them. If it works then happy days!

Could make bean bags for the safe zone.Recycling at its best could even do camo ones for the milsimers.

Try here its the place I always use for hard to find bits. https://www.google.co.uk/?gfe_rd=cr&ei=5a_0VcD2M-Kq8weI37PoBg&gws_rd=ssl Hope this helps. ☺

I only feed myself