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I was working only 2miles away yesterday and whilst I was in sunshine looking across to sunnybrisge was like looking at Mordor.

In fact I got this deal which is still available https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/kong-power-74v-1300mah-20c-lipo-rechargeable-battery-stick-packdeans-2-packs Even though it says they're 22mm wide they still fit fine. (I measured them at 20mm)

Yes, higher mAh is better but also influences size and cost so it might be better to buy 2 smaller ones. This also reduces the loss if one fails. For reference, I use a KongPower 7.4v 1300mAh single stick battery (I have two and take a few other batteries as well) It fits perfectly in the stock of the SA-E03 Size 20 x 12 x 125mm (not including plug & cables)

Provided it fits, yes larger mAh = longer run time. Around 1800-2000 will usually last most people a whole days gaming. Please do make sure you have a quality balance charger.

SE-08, buy a 7.4v that fits see what the performance is like B6 - pref not a clone but before I get flamed a clone B6 would still be better than a Nuprol B3 mains charger I got one of those B3 mains types, made a fucking loud buzz so went in the bin Got another B3 and was a really fussy bitch getting it to charge (kept coming with one light being red/fault , until I turned in on/off and eventually worked - finally) Then there are cheapo B3's req a sep psu, often an old 12v 1a modem/router psu will suffice (B3's charge just through balance lead so are slower to charge than the superior B6) So a B3 is a bit lame but do at a push - however not all B3's do LiFe batteries LiFe's are a lower cell at 3.3v than 3.7v & if you charge LiFe batteries on the higher LiPo setting it will damage it So a B6 is simply better all round, a good/genuine B6 is recommended and the use a decent laptop psu option something between 15v to 18v with a 2.5a~3.0a output with correct plug AND POLARITY !!! if in doubt buy a B6 psu, but if you know what you are doing you can use other psu's to hand if spec is correct Test rps on 7.4v then multiply by 1.55 to get an expected rps on similar 11.1v type battery - if it fits Aim for about 20rps or a smidge under/over but at about 22rps+ std UK guns may double fire/overspin going nuts at 25+ you mat PME risking stripping stuff without a bit of work etc... so twenties is plenty you could stay on 7.4v and change motor at some point to add a bit of zest (but really see how you go and should get near 15 rps on deans & decent 7.4v 25c I reckon) Some say LiFe 9.9v is much better than 7.4v as a good stop gap between 7.4v & 11.1v LiPo performance but me personally I didn't notice it THAT MUCH over a decent 7.4v in a tweaked gun might be ok if gun is stock, but think LiFe batteries cost more, limited range/options and when called upon in a snappy build the LiFe does not quite offer the raw grunt that a 30c 7.4v can supply might be OK on stock gun, the 9.9v adds a bit more juice but real raw grunt when needed, then LiFe begins to lack the large amount of zest from a 30c LiPo say (this is just my opinion as I said, others may disagree, but what I personally found when using a couple of 'em) that is my take on it all, G&G is nice but sod ETU SA Orion/Onion boxes have has some lemons but the mosfet is going to be more reliable and easy to change/upgrade best of luck Make sure it fits, some crane stocks only have 2 tubes not much over 18 diameter though usually about 20mm diameter, sometimes 22mm space is available but watch out for tight fitting crane stocks & fat nunchuck batteries pay close attention to battery dimensions when ordering don't go too mad, allow for wires - inc balance lead and a TINY bit of swelling from long term use said tiny and I mean a tiny tiny bit of puffing that can occur after a while of use long term very puffy LiPo's should be replaced safely, well up to you but be careful playing silly sods with LiPo's I keep posting this, there are loads - but seriously show some respect & safety when using/charging batteries back to battery, check dimensions, if unsure get a slightly smaller one and buy a pair swap over at lunchtime - job done

Alibaba is more orientated at bulk wholesale, but you can buy some items in lower quantities and may be able to order on a sample basis like Shooting aces Most orders would go via AliExpress for smaller consumer quantities and Alibaba for larger wholesale quantities. In the UK it would be ‘harder’ to make wholesale orders as wholesalers want to both deal in bulk and to protect their primary customers who are the retailers. So you would need to present some info to show that you are a business, and certain types of products/brands will also try to restrict who they deal with by region or business type to protect limited markets Alibaba has no worries - just that you’re spending enough money with them

Picked up an Action Army T11 recently, thought I'd give a a paint job to cover up the boring old black. 👌

Load outs aren't usually my thing but been getting a western kit together.

The MWS is done, not spending another dime on it ©️! Next to that I still have some bits and bobs from the MWS left, and some parts from my Block II FSP build, if anyone is interested, send me a pm, everything is going relatively cheap

did a commission 3d print of an MWS outerbarrel/collar (for ultralight builds) and i really liked the concept, so i made one myself for my pdw build. also a new 3d buffer tube arm brace, and tanker style muzzle device. this thing has RECOIL!

I have the upgrade kit on my ARP and it's great.. Haven't really played with the settings, I have AB on and occasionally turn on binary trigger, which puts a big fat smile on my face when I'm playing cqb.. It's one of those overlooked bits that can greatly improve your gun without ripping everything apart.

Most likely. They're shit. The trigger board is fine but the fcu unit is abysmal.

Bit confused here.... It "sounds" like a possible COL but gun is new-ish or recently purchased (but then 2 round burst on auto sounds odd) Ahhh but it is an ETU fuck pig so that would explain a burst on auto (but that would be 3rnd or potential 5rnd burst option on ETU2 units) Now we know the common AK selector issue going from semi/auto/semi etc... But this TWO round burst is a bit odd - should be 3 (and/or 5 round burst) on ETU I would have thought but still get single shot semi & then 3 (or 5 option on blue etu2) or just auto on ergh auto First of all - what battery are you using ETU's can/do play up on 7.4v so best to run on 9.6v or 11.1v, (11.1v is best perhaps) (normally, iffy etu's simply refuse to work on lower 7.4v, but wondering if lower volts causing an issue) Secondly - RTFM (Read The Fucking Manual) for info about setting/changing the burst mode COULD be an iffy ETU - the main unit near battery, as they are made from Dairy Lea Turn off/disable the burst mode (RTFM) and start again so semi & auto operates correctly In that sort of gun, I would have just used 11.1v with 18k motor to get you near say 20rps and with the 22k you should be on or just a whisker over 20rps It appears to be crane stock AK so assume the battery goes under the hood/dust cover which this battery MIGHT be about your limit - but YOU need to check it will fit (inc wires) https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-1300mah-3s-25-50c-lipo-airsoft-pack.html?queryID=c2ca5915ed20ee36fc43e6fc49de517d&objectID=31045&indexName=hbk_live_magento_en_us_products RTFM, check your battery is OK, and give us a bit more info... it might be a moody selector, but the etu causes more issues in some guns than it is supposed to solve or if gun is still in warranty contact retailer (hmm good luck with that) but I'm a little confused with 2rnd burst in both modes so if possible read manual, turn off burst etc... and update us with a bit more info perhaps

golden rule of airsoft- be very wary of anything that's "likely an easy fix" because the question then becomes if it's an easy fix then why doesn't the owner want to fix it? in this case it looks likely to be poor air seal, something someone confident in tech work is probably going to be tinkering with on any gun they buy anyway (even brand new), however it could also be something more sinister, like stripped teeth or a mangled spring. also potentially worrying on a high speed build that looks like it's taken a fair few names. on a side note this is also one of the stronger arguments for anyone wanting to learn tech work, takes a lot of headache and worry out of secondhand buying if you have the confidence to know that you can deal with any hidden problems.

Good info. If I see anything interesting I'll try requesting a sample from the vendor.

TM GBB MP7 is finished. just need to repair my mags then it’s off to Geartech for a paint job

Specna Arms SA-H20 EDGE 2.0 AEG Rifle from Patrol base. I just purchased one of these Gate Aster fitted guns about a week ago and have now had time to test it with the following results. 1st firing doing 320 FPS through a chrono using ,20 bbs but very whiny not a nice sound for a new gun. The usual loose stock you expect from Specna rattles but when you remove that a deans connector for the battery ( comes with an adapter for tamiya battery). Enough room for a good size battery in the stock tube. I noticed a sliver of the black insulation missing from the battery black wire, exposed cable! I remove the stock tube to expose the quick change spring nut which makes changing the spring super quick can be done in seconds nice. The thread not so nice a bit graunchy. The upper and lower of the gun fit together without play nice. The front locking pin has a locking screw all good. Separated lower from upper receiver after testing cover operation for hop up which is plastic rotary type works well. 6.03 brass inner barrel which works well. Note the catch that operates to release the hop adjust cover forward does not have a pin to hold it to the lower receiver so removable at this point can see that going missing as it wears! Removed motor and grip, supposed high torque motor. The pinion gear has a shine half way along its length saying to me not fully engaged with bevel gear. Whine! going to test that. Removed the back body pin and would have liked a locking screw on that! The small gearbox locking pin fell out at this point! I removed the grip which had 4 screws fitted nice grip and removed the gearbox. I refitted the grip and motor to the gearbox and the pinion was barely engaged with the bevel gear surprise. Remove grip and motor then open the gearbox after checking side play on trigger really sloppy! Cylinder is aluminium with a double seal cylinder head and oring alu nozzle, double seal piston head well lubricated and 14 tooth metal rack piston nice. Good seal all round. Nozzle oring was dry. Some shims on the gears but not enough and badly shimmed. The gears were almost dry bearings were ok. I cleaned the gearbox and re-shimmed. The trigger was very loose in the gearbox so replaced with a speed trigger which was slightly tighter. I lubricated all and reassembled the gearbox fitting the grip and setting the correct full engagement of the pinion gear. Next I set up the Aster and calibrated all very easy and now working nicely, love the speed trigger. i reassembled the entire gun and tested now i have 328 FPS and a wine free gun. I played with springs and now have 346FPS. I tested with 7.4 and 11.1 lipo and the gun sings. To sum up I doubt the gun would have lasted 2 games the way I received it and the wiring in the stock tube should have a further layer of insulation from the factory like the titans have. The gun came with 2 magazines one a nice fit the other was a very slack fit. The trigger fit was crap and Specna should be ashamed of its quality control on what is supposed to be an upgraded gun. On the plus it is cheap and with a little knowledge can be turned into a good gun. Please let me no if you have one and what you found.

Real milsim would be three days of harbouring up, 30 minutes contact and an afternoon cleaning weapons while the CQMS drinks tea.

Someone has never been to sennybridge...