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" these pellets are sure to give you the edge you need to come out on top" I mean, once you're the only player left with working eyesight, you can just walk into the objective.

Did a bit of a revamp of my 10" M4.... It's now a 5" M4. Used a spare Specna upper receiver I had, got a new 5" carbon fibre barrel, moved the ARP-9 handguard from my AAP carbine, cut down and recrowned an old Guarder 363x6.02 barrel, replaced the cylinder (from 4/5 hole to 2/3), random spring (m100? m110? who knows) and now I have a very smol boi. Why? Because I want lightweight and compact for long tournaments, this horrid thing is very consistent in Joule output and spread (very surprising given the silly short barrel), plus I'll be strapping a thermal scope onto it at night, the more weight I can shave the better. Powered by a funny 7,4v 1800mAh 130/65c battery that gets me in the 25 RPS region (by sound, need to confirm via chrono). As always, functionality over aesthetics. P.S. G43 + FTC is on there just for show, I don't really use it.

After 10 years of playing, I finally have the cash and the knowledge to buy all the bits and bobs to make a tricked out rifle that has all the attachments that I neeeeeeeeeeeeeed. Being an adult finally has its perks! This comes after a little binge on Aliexpress for the final little pieces. Double Eagle M906C (completely stock and still kicking ass). PTS EPF-M MLOK foregrip. SOTAC Elcan Spectre 1x - 4x Scope WADSN M300A flashlight, on an ARIS Type 2 clone MLOK mount. WADSN DBAL-A2 Laser/light module (Red laser, flashlight, strobe, and IR laser). WADSN 3-button control unit thing with two leads for both the flashlight and the laser module. 3rd button is an ON/OFF switch (not momentary) for the flashlight. Mounts via MLOK Arson Machine MLOK and RIS-based "cable management solutions". Really pleasing stuff tbh. I love retail therapy. Last thing to get is some dinky little tracer unit, as my intention is for this to be my indoor gun now that it can light up a room and I can see where I'm going.

Well, he was still limping about with a stick on Sunday! Speaking of which, cracking day at Red Alert! Took the new Gordy clone out for its first proper run and discovered that (at least on the 11.1v I was running it with) it doesn't like most of my midcaps but runs perfectly happily on a hicap. New tappet spring and delay chip for that one I think! The morning was a bit drizzly, but spirits were high, first game wasn't the usual infection style name game but rather the whole morning was a themed drug dealers/gun runners objective based taste of the Battlesim Lite style days. Great fun but a bit of advanced notice would have been appreciated so I could have brought some way of keeping hydrated for two hours out in the humid woods! We (Red team) won that one fairly convincingly, I took a tactical tumble running in to help cover an objective (no serious injuries other than pride, thankfully) but we managed to get ALL THE DRUGSSS!!!!!! After a rather lovely lunch of chicken curry, it was back to more regular short skirmish type games One including some MASSIVE cuddly toys). The knees finally cried enough after that so the last short game of the day was missed. A fair number left through the day (some kicky ball thing was on the telly apparently) but the day started out with 102 players. Decent play all round, decent marshalling (even from hopalong @Skullchewer) and I finally met @GAMBLE too!

On my quest, still.... Welrod aap. 😁🤣

Finished this build 👍🏽 RWA urban combat 2.0 in tinted black cherry. steel threaded barrel with 417 compensator. all the matching AGA furniture. AGA stippled grip with the big A Full steel internals.

I take no responsibility for giving you good ideas haha 😂

Never knock a tight fit. Two tone pink and it will look great.

Thanks to GenuineGerman & my inability to save money. shout out to patrolbase & DPD, failed delivery on Sunday coz I was at work but I only ordered this late on Friday night.

I like to think of it as "holding court".

I asked the Geordie barber for a perm. He said "I wandered lernly as a clood....."

Probably my last game day for a while because I'm probably going onto anticoagulants on Tuesday which means no airsoft until the procedure is done and the recovery is over. Unfortunately it went out with a bit of a whimper though. I took my G&P m14 and KJW m40a5 along with the intent of using the m14 with the m40a5 as a backup in case it wasn't shooting great. Suffice to say, it wasn't shooting great. The power is exactly where I want it and it's incredibly quiet for an AEG, but I think it needs a new hop rubber as the BBs just weren't really hopping very well, so the range was a bit poor. So why didn't I go back to the safe zone and grab my m40a5? Because I had no motivation to, basically. Worthing Airsoft at the moment is a pointless site to use anything with an MED at as there are only a few, very limited spots where you can actually use it. Furthermore, some of the spots that were fine now have twiggy bits in the way, which is wonderful for sending your shots off course, which isn't as much of a problem for semi or full auto guns as you can usually punch through, but single shot bolt actions? Not so much. Anyway, not much to really say. First game was a king of the hill style game over the Tower base; I took a flanking route and discovered the bottom of the site is currently unplayable. It took the entire game for me to fight my way through the foliage. When we flipped sides, I went to my normal spot and that's where I realised the m14 just wasn't firing well. The scope mount was slightly off so all my shots looked like they were going to the left, and the hop up wasn't working well so I was struggling to hit 50m. Combine that with the aforementioned twiggy bits and I had quite a few frustrating moments where I caught someone completely unawares only for my shots to either fall short or hit a twig and go to Narnia, giving them the opportunity to seek cover and get out of my line of sight. Anyway, now I have a few months of no gameplay, so I'm going to spend these game days on the range making sure my guns that need a bit of tweaking are sufficiently tweaked and also might put some DOPE cards together for my main bolt actions (KJW m40a5 and m700) and my DMRs (MWS and the MTW when I get it). It'd be nice to know reliably where to aim to hit targets out to 85m and beyond with a measure of accuracy. I did plink a little with the m40a5 today on the range and it was performing flawlessly as usual; hitting the 75m with pretty much every shot and even reaching to the 85m, but with less accuracy for sure; it's amazing how much difference that extra 10m makes.

The phrase is first recorded in the 14th Century, been around a bit.

New pew today 😁. Since using my lad's SSE18, I've wanted one for my ghillie rig, but I've decided to dual-purpose it for my cyberpunk CQB setup. The massive holo is a placeholder until my low-profile (red) red dot arrives, but I'm starting to get attached to it, whilst tactically sweeping my house over and over. The amplifier was primarily cosmetic but it definitely makes the pistol sound less anaemic. Also missing is a red flared mag well, as it was out of stock. She's ugly, but that's kind of the point. 😄 Once it's complete, the real project begins: Integral torch, using the foregrip cavity, and LED lighting in the rear carbine cavity... all for the cyberiness. 😄

I hate to admit this but Tight Fit's The Lion Sleeps Tonight is on my 80's play list at work.

Yeah, the two hour game blind sided everyone. That was the biggest feedback, from me too! "Oh your ankle hurts? Walk for two hours." But feedback in overall was good. Good to see you again, and that one big contraband extraction you guys did was epic. 🤣 Come to the Simlite on the 28th. We are also trialing evening games soon.

I believe that might be it, I can see it move up and down as I adjust it, next time I shoot it I'll put a comment up to confirm but thank you very much. Yep I think that's what Gavin was on about, cheers

OP - for info, the whole sight should move on the elevation (if it works like the real one)- i.e. it doesn't just move the location of the 'pointer' within the optic tube.

I remember having issues with mine too, double check it's actually moving up & down as you're adjusting it.

There should be what looks like a bolt head in the middle of that knurled disc in the rear of the sight, have you tried slackening that off?

Never used the Ares one so don't know if it can be made to go lower once you run out of adjuster.

Cheers, even with adjusting that I'm still firing high, it looks like the lowest setting it '100', so 100 metres. Unless you can go lower and i'm missing something?

Yep, 100% truth. Though it depends on how the gun is set up, in some cases (no electronics, giga fast motor, beefy battery) the gun may overspin and leave the piston somewhere in the middle of its travel. Usually switching to a weaker battery (say 7,4 from 11,1 or one with less mAh/c rating) does the trick. The procedure I mentioned is only "necessary" (read it's really not necessary) when storing for a looooooong time, to minimize the chance of poor quality springs being stretched/compressed permanently.

I can't see how selling then wouldn't be legal, after all they're just metal balls. Using them in a rif in game would probably open a shit storm of legal problems. I'm not sure using metal bbs would be good for the internals, especially the inner barrel

"Need gone ASAP really" So prices it at nearly double retail 🥴

Most hop rubbers are not silicone. Some are, most are rubber compounds of varying degrees of hardness. Ambient temperature will absolutely affect a hop rubber in that heat will soften it so you will get more hop for the same setting and less when it's cold and it hardens up.

Sounds like you could be into modding an AK box mag.

Unfortunately, airsoft is an inexact beast at the best of times. Throw into the mix a chrono that is very possibly not terribly accurate or consistent in and of itself and you're on a hiding to nothing. Having been down the rabbit hole of diminishing returns myself, unless you're going to spend the money on a proper calibrated unit like a Skan or something similar then as long as your flyers are within the limits when tested on the site chrono, I'd take the win and leave it at that.

If you like that one you should see their other auction... only £20 for an instant site ban and a personal injury claim. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/126540465210?itmmeta=01J1PZ3SRGWNSZ5WFMS97V4HAT&hash=item1d7666443a:g:p7gAAOSwWbVmFDwv

Important pack features: or “Things that affect how your ruck takes load. And no I am not talking about your mother”. Buying surplus in general grades such as 1,2 and super are often quoted. Prices roughly reflecting west and tear. • “Super” should be like new. • ”1” Used but complete, probably marked and might have non-critical wear. • “2” Heavily worn. I’d expect to have to do some sewing or replace fittings. Unfortunately these definitions are somewhat loose and I have bought super/a+ grade kit that needed repair and grade 2 was fine. When you get a bigger pack, apart from capacity, the pack itself may be sized or have an adjustable back length. So check it’s the right size. If you can try it with some load in it too. Features that affect carrying the load and comfort are: • Bag shape • Back support/frame • Shoulder straps & adjustment • Shoulder lifter straps • Waist belt padding 1) Bag shape. Short wide packs often put the weight further back from your centre of gravity unless carefully loaded. Example US Alice. Tall narrow packs can be better in the hills but snag overhead and if you go prone can ride up making shooting/watching awkward. Most modern packs have gone this way. Example Berghaus Vulcan. 2) Pack frame. A big bag needs some kind of structure to support the load others it flips about all over the place. I think Internal vs external frame design largely moot, go with what works for you. External frames keep the pack away from your back but the frame can make “hot spots” more common. Example US MOLLE2. Internal frames use a bit of back padding (sweaty back time) or a spacer (airflow back) so the load isn’t poking on your spine. Karrimor SF Predator. 3) Shoulder straps are obvious need some adjustment. I have had a few bags where the adjustment was very limited so once you had layers on getting the packing and off was PITA! Some packs, typically external frame ones, have removable straps. Sometimes after market upgrades are available such as for ALICE & MOLLE packs. On some Bergen’s you can switch where the shoulder straps fit, handy if you have a far neck. Sternum straps allow you to pull the shoulder straps in a bit for stability and to relieve the straps pulling your shoulders back. 4) Load lifter straps are adjusters on the top of shoulder straps that you tension to “lift” the load, really they are pulling the weight closer to your centre of gravity. See how to pack a Bergen below. Useless on packs with no frame and waist support. 5) Waist/hip belts should be the main support for the load. Padding is nice but too much can be a problem as much as too little. Some very well engineered and custom packs use unpadded belts that are sewn to clinch on the wearers hips. I’m looking at you Kifaru! Most belts have an adjustable side release similar buckle. Quite often there are tensioners on either side as well.

Inflation is terrible

Too much white wine with dinner..... Mush fuZzy.🤫🤣

Can you tell what it is yet? A trip to B&Q and a bit of fettling to be done then... "Build it, they will come".

This was pretty much what they said. Thanks for the advice, this is really what I was after. Top tier post. Going to hopefully try it out next Sunday, see if I fit in and fit the job. If it's a no, it's no loss, I'll just happily keep playing.

Can’t imagine it’s a problem. I think most hop rubbers are made of silicone which can tolerate temperatures much higher than your loft is ever going to reach. Assuming your house doesn’t catch fire.

a little bit more complicated than that. most made from a mold then need to be polished internally to get somewhere near the right advertised inner diameter. in fact quite tricky for large production if looking for around £20'ish retail @Rogerborg 100% correct, no real benefit from going past 300mm certainly within the UK. I did try opening up the end of a XT 6.00mm to around 6.03mm, but found unless I could re-polish to a really high-level I found I just introduced more issues. It's a shame, I wish I had access to a high-end polishing machine,

Funny that. I went to Lidl yesterday to get a bag of sparks for my grinder and a bucket of steam for the kettle but there was neither. I guess they had a run on them.

Lol, only 48 hours, I admire your optimism 🤣

How front heavy do you want your AK? да

This is now 99% done. Not exactly clone correct but passable at 15m 723 alike. Had to get the mock flashlight 3d printed and then screw the pistol grip in in possibly the most cack handed way, but at least its solid. Just need a butler creek flip cover to hide the front of the "flashlight" XD

My G26

I don’t think it identifies as a carbine any more 😂 Probably the most problematic build I’ve had, but it’s finally done! Umarex G36C with a custom barrel extension (It’s about .4” too long 😬) Kurz style gas block, Ultima H-Key rail, SOTAC (I believe) EOTech and magnifier and a LLM when it arrives. Stock needs drilling to fit as the Umarex one isn’t correct for the impression, hence it just “resting” and the fire selector markings need removing and replaced with the “SEF” Reference attached, Luftlandeaufklärungskompanie 260

New pew, replacement for my LM4D workhorse. Paired it with a PEQ15, 3x magnifier and RDS and finished it off with a Bifrost BT for flame fun.

A little bit different to my usual sniper rifles and pistols... (it was a Black Friday purchase. £310 down from £460)