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Fitted the omega nub with the maple leaf bucking, 298 - 307 (.25g bb’s, adjusting hop incremental and only a tiny drop) Seems I’m now on the right path, so fingers crossed all is good next month 🙏

How front heavy do you want your AK? да

Hi bud. What do you think it's worth? Did you buy it yourself? You must have some idea of what you want for it. I know that I have made offers on gear that the owners don't know what it's worth only to get a message back saying,'you are joking, It's worth three times that'

New thread to start fresh from the old one. My daughter and I played here last night, Tuesday 18th June. It was a bit of a trek for us, 60 miles to the opposite side of Manchester at rush hour! Still, only 1hr 40m, a lot of that was sat on various bloody motorways going a walking pace! Anyway, easy enough to find and there was plenty of parking. The staff were friendly, the shop is only small but has a few pews, the normal consumables and sweets, drinks etc. I did like that there was a parts/broken bin for you to rummage through but I forgot to have a proper look before we left. I did see a shotty with a broken stock though, probably good for my bank account that I didn't have a proper look! It looks like we're both becoming patch whores and made a beeline for the "Chemical Airsoft" Velcro backed patches. There were 2 designs, one was glow in the dark, so naturally we opted for those but were quietly shocked to find that they were £15 each! Don't get me wrong they are very nice patches but we didn't expect them to be that much. Still, 2 were bought as whoever said airsoft was a cheap hobby? The other was design was £12 so still a little pricey but not filled with some glowing radioactive nonsense! For a 3 hour session it was £15 each which I think is really good value, especially as @sofieb doesn't really get time off at the weekend to go to other sites. Right, gameplay. Bloody brilliant. Apparently there are 2 parts to the site, the part we played on was quite small. It's a very close quarters combat, with lots of obstacles and spawn points are never more than a minutes walk away so your right back in the action. The site looks like an old manufacturing facility with long corridors, punctuated with barricades and open doorways that lead off to another room/corridor. Before the game started one of the marshals said that we, Sof and I, could go and have a look around as it was our first time playing there. I did wonder whether my CG16 would be too long for the quite confined space but as my MP5 has no light, and it is quite dark with lots of glow in the dark and LED lighting, I went in with the long'un and my trusty WE P226. At the start of the evening there was only 8 of us playing. I did have a 'oh no, this is going to be shit' moment but thankfully it wasn't. Chrono was dealt with quickly, safety brief was ok. Apart from my eldest semen demon and I, the others seemed to be regulars. I, at 51, was definitely the oldest and there were all a couple of teens too. There was at least 2 HPA pewers and a youngish chap, in full MTP camo with an L85. Then the rest, in civvies may have been rental but I'm not sure. Most games were team death match and it ran very fast. The final game was a raise the flag game, I think my team won but I was having too much fun to care. The small site made it fast paced and, as I've said, the spawn points are not far away so your only out of the action for a minute or so. Its single shot only so my bb consumption was quite low but I did get lots of hits, and got hit a lot. Even got a couple with my 226. Made me very happy. There are a couple of points that caused a raised eyebrow though. Firstly, the chrono/briefing room is about 5m square. Shots were fired through the chrono towards the opposite wall, rebounding everywhere. Not a massive problem, we all had eye pro and face masks, which are mandatory, on but there were far better places right by the door to the safe zone to do this. Secondly, the marshal was quite happy for lots of shots being fired in that room while we were stood there. Again, no real problem but separating the chrono from the briefing would have stopped this. Thirdly, at the end of the evening, as we were packing up, one of the marshals got out his very shiny . . . . thing . . . .to show us! He did say what it was but I cant remember, its like a skeletonised short body that runs on air and magnets! Very nice but certainly not a RIF. Anyway, he puts it together, connects the air and starts spamming the trigger to show how quiet and lovely it is. This, I didn't like. Yes, we watched him assemble it but a safe zone should be a safe zone with no dry firing. Overall though, we both really enjoyed it and will probably go back but the drive to get there and home is off putting.

Yes as it turns out, never use a mysterious plastic bag full of bbs with a sticker saying 0.36g. It's a lie. Opened a fresh pack and it's firing perfectly. Thank you

I see this time and again. People start to give perfectly well meaning advice without actually understanding what's happening. Is the hop adjusted at all, what weight ammo is being used, what ACTUAL range are you getting and what do you think you want to actually achieve? New players often overestimate what they will get from their guns and underestimate the benefits of simple things (like barrel cleaning and hop adjustment. As for the accuracy question, as has been mentioned innumerable times before airsoft guns are smoothbore toy guns firing very light ammo with a crude method of imparting additional range (ie the hop unit). If you're expecting 100m range and pinpoint accuracy then you're likely to be disappointed.

'Screw holder' is a good way to describe a Zenitco handguard you're quite right.

MILF on a SHILF?

https://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/1980/66/section/161 "and in consequence a user of the highway is injured, interrupted or endangered" Unfortunately this might stick

If you're looking for £200, list that as your asking price ONO, you might get close to it if you're willing to haggle. The only pews & kit I make an offer on that I don't end up buying are the items that have no wiggle room for negotiation. Keep listing it until it's sold. You'd be surprised how many classifieds I've bought the second or third time it's been advertised & nearer my original offer than the sellers asking price.

Sounds like it was a good night overall apart from the last bit. This. It's one thing for a player to be dry firing in the safe zone, but for a member of staff to do it is worse as it sets a precedent for others to think it's ok and is a negligent discharge waiting to happen

Edit: ignore me, I didn't read the post properly

agreed... not holding my breath either.... and yes, my order is also being shipped by ups.. estimated to arrive monday

When I'm out in the countryside at this time of year I end up crawling with ticks if I don't give myself a spray down with tickspray. The last game I was at was deep in tick country and none of our group picked up a single one after we had a good spray down. Ingredients: 1 spray bottle, 2 parts water, 1 part vinegar, a squirt of tea tree oil. As an added bonus it keeps most of the flies and midges at bay (and leaves you smelling like a chippy on a Saturday night).

Probably lighter 😂

Maybe just hang a breezeblock off the front instead?

That is a very good question. I would say before you start buy a chrono find out what the gun is doing and how consistent it is. get a few samples of heavy weight BBs next time you are at a game site use their range to see what BBs give you the best range and go from there. A well set up AEG will be accurate (hitting centre mass consistently) 50 to 60 metres you are not going to get much further than that longest I have seen a AEG shoot accurately is 80m and that was tuned to high heaven.

Lol, your googlefu is stronger than mine. General rule of thumb for s/h stuff in airsoft is considered to be 60% to 70%ish of the cheapest new price at the time of posting. But depending on supply, demand, or even who's using the kit in active service at the time can cause the accepted percentage to fluctuate. Problem you have is irrespective of rrp, not many airsofters splurge £200+ on load bearing equipment of any sort, not with so many good quality copies around for a fraction of real steel prices, with the exception of the hard-core stitch counters, but they're all bonkers lol🥴. Add to that, you've stated yours is a "desert camo", but which one & who uses it ?, that kinda info may give you a better idea of a target market, whether it's airsofters, reenactors, or even the home market of whatever country or units use that camo ?. Good luck, it may not be easy to shift but I sold an Israeli vest to someone in the Lebanon once, at a considerable profit, so anything is possible 😀

Doesn't sound like much of an upgrade 😬

I paid alot, instinct purchase but never used it! Priced at over £400 thats direct from MKU I paid a fair amount, listed over £400 on MKU. would like to get £200 back, its Large size well made with inserts and pouches Its priced over £400 on MKU

Been after a Winkler Belt knife for years so last year for my birthday I splurged and ordered one. Was surprised to find the parcel in my bin shed when I got in last week. Am well happy.

You may get yours first... I also ordered a couple of other parts for a few guns, one was back ordered and so delayed the entire shipment... finally got posted today

ALG Defense actually made a purple one.

DONT SAND IT!!! 😫 The paint will come off with a wipe of acetone or unleaded with a rag/toothbrush The short mags (I believe) aren’t as common as the long ones But I’d expect around £350 for that Some folk have these up at crazy prices, but the recent Krytac versions release soon burst that bubble

Thanks for the detailed explanation. Ok, so I will get a CYMA M4, take it apart and see how I can integrate the internals into the cosplay lasgun. https://www.phenixairsoft.com/en/1083-m4-airsoft-replicas There are a lot of CYMA M4s. Are the internals the same, or is there something I'd should look for?

The first things to try are making sure the barrel is clean and then try heavier ammo. It's surprising how much extra range you can get from simply using different weight bbs. If this doesn't work then my next step would be to swap out the hop rubber, I recommend a Maple Leaf macroon 50⁰. This is a cheap and easy job (even I managed it without a problem and I've got the tech skills of a drunken chimpanzee)

Better add some glitter to be extra safe

custom gbb workshop COBRA(1986) colt mk iv series 80 9mm ARMY gbb airsoft deep marking cerakote grip detail fix

OK so, that patch and ones like it, a man needs a sauce

Much.

It’s okay we got you covered. 😉😘

Two years later, I still haven't fielded it It's the only rif I have, bar the mk23, to which I haven't spent a fortune on so let's change that. Plan is to short stroke it and install a TTI hop unit.. both unnecessary but hey, who says no to shiny new things? Unfortunately the parts choice seems a bit limited compared to platforms like the AAP or Hi-Capa, the only two short stroke kits I can source are the nineball and the CCT ones, I wonder if the latter is decent enough to spend money onto. Comments? Experiences? I'm keeping the plastic slide for now, I don't see the point in crippling the awesome gas efficiency for "ReEeEeEealism" so there is that too. Next, I need a holster for it, I don't trust the CTM style ones that clamp onto the trigger guard, at the same time I mailed Deadly Customs who said they won't do it unless I send them the gun, which I'm not confident in doing because I'm positive it'll get lost/seized (read stolen).. at the same time I don't want to dish out €200+ for an AMS-6S.. any recommendations? Thirdly, I need more mags, I have these two Action Army mags that I don't use in my AAPs and wanted to convert them to TM spec, so I was thinking of replacing routers and valves. Worth it? And lastly, I may change a thing or two in the hammer mechanism, hammer spring seems a bit tired, I'm unsure if I should buy a TM one or a CCG 140% spring, even though I already kind of know the answer to this question.. Current state of the poor thing.

Another Aliexpress success. Bought it for Vietnam games to carry my long m700 magazines, because they're far better quality magazines and far more consistent than the stubby KJW mags, and they fit perfectly. They go deeper, but thought I'd leave them there to show the space and how they fit in. Very happy with this as it'll allow me to take a lot of weight off my belt kit as these mags are heavy (because gas gun)

Oh, hello. This is very relevant to my interests. I'd agree that an M4 makes sense as the base. All you really need to retain is the lower receiver and gearbox, plus the hop unit and inner barrel, ideally as a complete unit. Those are the shooty bits. It shouldn't matter which M4, but with it being airsoft, it might, due to slight differences in dimensions. CYMA would be the default choice to use for development as they're an actual OEM and should (there's that word again) be consistent across the range, from their cheapest plastic CM.5xx guns, up to the metal receivers with trick gearboxes and electronics. However, there are many (many, many) other affordable options: Specna Arms, Lancer Tactical, Double Eagle, all of which have quick change springs (which the cheapest CYMAs don't) and any of which ought to be workable with perhaps some slight modification to the dimensions, either before printing or with some filing or filling afterwards. What you'd want to print is the upper receiver. What matters is that it mates up with the lower - specifically keying into it at the rear, and at the front pin - and that the interior matches the original just above and in front of the magwell, where the hop unit seats. That part is crucial to get right, as any misalignment of the hop unit, or inability to slide forwards and and backwards slightly, will result in misfeeds and/or magazines not seating. You'll also need some sort of flip-or-slide-to-open window to access the hop unit dial, although it needn't be as big as the ejection port on the original receiver. I'd suggest binning off the outer barrel and just run the inner barrel directly inside the printed receiver. The outer dimensions of airsoft inner barrels are fairly consistent, but I'd make the void a fraction bigger than your development gun's inner barrel, as the barrel can be (and commonly is) shimmed up with tape to fit snugly, on a case by case basis. It's fine to have an inner barrel that's shorter than the outer, as long as it's not excessively so, and the BBs's don't impact the outer on the way out (which is another reason to make the void slightly oversized). After that, you can go hog wild with the externals. For example, the CSI XM-5 is an M4 / V2 gearbox and hop unit inside a particularly funky plastic shell that... some people... already use as a space plasmalaser gun. For the avoidance of doubt, I mention this as an example of what can be done with a full external factory do-over. I would not use this as the base gun for a kit! It's not readily available now, and while the internals are V2 they're very sub-par. In theory it takes STANAG / M4 mags as well as its stock magazine, but the receiver halves and buffer tube are nothing like M4 compatible. For all that it's just a hollow shell, it's a weighty boy too, and nobody wishes their gun was heavier come the end of the day, and it an absolute nightmare to take apart and work on. It's a swing and a miss, you can do better by sticking with a stock lower and a simple one-pin takedown. Oh, buffer tube. Some M4 have bolt-on buffer tubes, but the cheapest CYMAs don't, they're moulded to the back of the lower receiver. However, the dimensions of the buffer tube itself should be... similar... and so you should be able to come up with a printed stock that secures onto most tubes. Airsoft gearboxes can be front or rear wired. With front wired, the wiring goes out past the hop unit (this can sometimes be a bit of a squeeze) to a battery somewhere in the upper receiver. Rear wired, the wiring runs inside the buffer tube to a battery in the stock. Rear wired is most common in generic M4s, and I'd suggest sticking with rear wiring, and keeping the battery inside the stock, with as much empty space as possible. On magazines, I wouldn't sweat that just yet. There are a plethora of various short / low profile mags available, but magazine fitting and feeding is one of the common issues that airsofters encounter. If you do get feeding issues, the most common cause is front to rear misalignment of the hop unit, or the nozzle protruding too far into the hop rubber, all of which is dependent on the magwell, magazine, hop unit, nozzle and hop rubber - it's a problem to solve on a case-by-case basis. I'm looking forward to seeing what you come up with. For development purposes, you don't even need a working gun, any boneyard basket-case should do, as long as it has all the external parts so that you can get the dimensions right.

The Lucius pattern is basically a sci-fi BAR. Entry level, easy to adjust, cheap - Sounds like a standard M4. Also matches the magazine profile with the 20 round VN style mags (Again, cheap)

It's an observation, not an argument. The practice is that if a monopoly provider can bill you the "cost" for a service, they can - and will - name any "cost" that they want. For example, the £70 fee to switch a vehicle registration mark, which is a take-it-or-leave-it fee for a few keystrokes.

Except that they're absolutely gopping.

You had to go and tempt fate there didn't you https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/clmm78j3jjno.amp

Found some really cheap 0.40g BB's, thought "wow" and bought 4,000 of them for the DMR. Now I have them I realise they're black 😢