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You are trying to upgrade a dollar store spring pistol Nobody can help you

[Much typing deleted, I just do this] I'd stress being careful to heat only the last coil, and just enough squish it, as the heating will de-springify it. If you only want to lose a small bit of energy, you can just heat and squish a coil without cutting it at all. [EDIT] Right, basically what @Pseudotectonic said.

Perhaps we might prepare young people for the society that we'd prefer to live in.

In my case I've actually tried heated up one end of the spring (with 4-5 coils compressed with a pliers) and aimed a heatgun at it at 500C for like 10 seconds, and held it for a minute or two until it cools down, and after it cools down it keeps its shape in the compressed form (had to do several passes to get the shape right because of pliers being uneven and to get the FPS down enough) I ended up able to reduce the overall length from ~170mm to ~155mm and bring down my FPS from ~355 to ~340 which is hopefully more chrono friendly So yeah, heatgun worked for me, no cutting, and you can fine tune it gradually if you do it in several passes The ends are still flat, there was some very minor surface oxidisation which I buffed out with sandpaper, but the original end coil flats are still there

Whats a "human oran" and why can't you shoot it?

Sorry Oli but the truth is that's just a toy and not real airsoft. There's nothing you can do with it. The cheapest pistol you can get that's actually worth having is THIS one or THIS full setup.

A logistical dilemma caused by the convergence of the last rehearsal before our 25th Birthday gig and the London Marathon means that I am spending tonight in a Premier Inn in Woking. However, every cloud has a silver lining, so this seemed like a good opportunity to spend the afternoon at Driver Wood, a site about which I have heard and read a lot but have never visited. So, this morning, in addition to my video mixer, projector, video loops etc, I loaded my airsoft gear into the car, including the lad's C7, which I had done some work on last Saturday evening as it seemed to have lost power. Arriving at Driver Wood was a bit of a culture shock; there were paintballers, kids' parties, airsoft beginners' sessions and about 60 airsofters. This actually seemed like a proper business! Checking in was straightforward; I got my wristband and I was in. I found a table, chatted to the players on the next table, one of whom admired the C7, and chrono'd the C7 (1.04J and great range). The safezone was well organised, clean and had WiFi! The only negative aspect was a number of signs stating that no food or drink could be brought in. I then sorted my own stuff out, remembering to ensure that barrel socks were in use in the safezone, chrono'd my rifle and pistol, and set off for balancing of teams, distribution of us afternoon arrivals to teams and a mercifully short but complete safety and rules brief. Immediately after this, we set out for the game zone, passing various areas full of kids having great fun shooting paint and BBs at each other. The first game of the afternoon involved collecting a downed pilot, getting them on to a stretcher and transporting them to one of the helicopters. Each side had a stretcher and, if the two players carrying it were killed, they had to drop it; the opposing team could then try to prevent them recovering it but could not steal it. However, if the pilot was on it, they could transfer him to their stretcher if it could be brought alongside. I teamed up with a few players who decided to try to work around into the enemy's left flank and rear; this went rather well until we encountered an enemy force who had decided to try to work around into our right flank and rear. This resulted in some great fights; I found a spot in a ditch under a bush from where I could control the convergence of two paths that the enemy were using; it was what WW2 U-Boat crews called a Happy Time; a target rich environment and a hidden Colin with a very accurate rifle. Ultimately, as for the U-Boat crews, the Happy Time ended and I was sunk. Regenning, I encountered the two chaps from the table next to mine and we fought our own little war against a group of enemy who were continuing to try to push into our team's tactical rear, holding them off until the end of the game, which our side won, getting the stretcher and pilot into the helicopter after a stand off. Hurrah! After a short break, we started the second game of the afternoon; a three point domination. The targets were the green tent, the six wheeler and one of the helicopters; whoever controlled each of them at every 10 minute interval got a point . I have no idea what happened at the six wheeler or the helicopter, as I was solely involved around the green tent, which the enemy grabbed at the start of the game. This was a really good action, with people flanking all over the place, hiding in bushes, and generally popping up where they were least expected. Despite us pushing hard, the enemy held the green tent for most of the game, with us only capturing it for the very last point. My first impressions of Driver Wood are positive, despite the signs about not bringing your own food and drink. The playing area reminded me somewhat of Battle Lakes, albeit without that site's bottlenecks and choke points. I will definitely be going back. After the game, I stopped off at Surplus Store UK in Crawley, with the possible intention of buying a JG T3 SAS. However, the size, or rather the lack of size, of its battery compartment, put me off. Armband watch: Bright green (I thought they were yellow!) and purple. Weapons used: SRC T-91 ASG Commander XP18 (CO2)

How do you expect to sell stuff if you don't publicly disclose where its sold?

I clicked on it and it played the video. Didnt have a clue what was going on though. Lol

Good day at Gunman Tuddenham today for a filmsim game. Started off a bit wet and windy but warmed up for the second half of the day. Got a chance to use my new MP7 and Ferro Concepts Slickster. The MP7 was great fun, but I'll be sticking with NGRS for now at least. The Slickster on the other hand will be staying in the collection - I've not always been a fan of plate carriers but it easily retained 4 magazines plus a speed loader and radio, fitted nicely and will be well complemented by a decent belt set up. Gameplay was standard, a few instances where people claimed that dead players were spotting for those who hadn't been hit - and one poor show of a player swearing about the game (because they weren't winning/didn't appear to understand it), and then refusing to engage with the marshal who was trying to understand their frustrations 🤷🏼‍♀️... Otherwise a good day with some amazing shots and attacks through the woodland. Might be the last Airsoft day for a while due to holidays but looking forward to the next one already.

To me, that all sounds like bollocks, hence why until someone reputable vouches for you, I'll trust you as far as I can throw you. Have a nice day 😏

Hi, Welcome. Are you from, or affiliated to, a particular manufacturer?

Been faffing with my load bearing gear for the past few months trying to get it just right ..... nearly there I think! Started as a bog standard Viper Spec Ops Chest Rig but I kinda wanted it to be a bit more high speed/low drag/tacticool ....so I ditched the bungee retention for the mags and bunged some 5.56 retention inserts in there with added velcro glued to them, and inside the pouches for added security. Then the the 3 pistol/torch pouches that sat on the front were removed. In place of the torch pouch on the right hand side, I've attached a TQ holder with TQ, sharpie and medical shears. On the left hand side I've adapted an old holster panel and now the knife is attached directly to the rig on the outside of the radio pouch. Finally I used fabric glue to add some velcro on the rear so the dangler can be used Bit of fancy bling in the shape of a dummy flashbang and some speedcuffs and I'm pretty happy with it. Next thing is to increase carrying capacity for additional stuff such as water, jacket, food etc so a small molle pack will be added on the harness straps (not pictured)

I got some WE fill valves off firesupport

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A certain rated spring takes into account the length of the spring to arrive at the strength the spring will be used at. For example you can increase the strength of a spring using spacers to pre-compress it or it can be longer than another spring with same spring constant which ends up pre compressing it when installed. In fact all the springs seems to have a degree of pre compression when installed. For springs that are the same length they need to be stiffer, thicker wire or some such. Looking at the springs I have what seems to happen is that some springs are just longer than an otherwise identical spring, until you need to use a stiffer material because you'll run out of room to compress it. Springs are cheap enough, I wouldn't bother cutting one. Take off a bearing at the guide end if you have one on the cylinder head perhaps, you don't need 2 bearings.

Best too eat them upside down so the texture is on your tongue. If the nut inside is not enough for you.

It’ll be on a longer fuse than others

Some more examples: (PM me if you want something done) Right side designed by me And a classic

Whether it's a joke or not, the comparison to Nazi Germany is insulting to those persecuted there for simply existing. As already said, halls of residence inspections and monitoring internet usage aren't exactly a novelty. Universities have reputations to uphold and especially in this age where Britain is becoming more like its ally from across the Atlantic with its litigous tendencies, they have to be vigilant to avoid being held liable and thus give grounds to be sued. To that point about being sued, universities have something called public liabilty insurance to protect or mitigate themselves from injury to people or damage to property within the confines of the university. As the halls of residence are the responsibility of the university and that it has a duty of care with internet usage, it doesn't take an overactive imagination to guess that many public liability insurance policies for a university are contingent on them not allowing weapons or replicas in the halls of residence and that they have safeguards and "counselling" policies in place over web usage. University culture isn't "absolutely mad" in that respect. It reflects the society we live in today where you have to be especially careful to keep your arse covered.

And they are selling. Tokyo Marui does not give a shit about any market out side of Japan.

I mean tbf..... springer pistol kills are supremely satisfying.

Troll Ban Hammer time

Bloody humans! They always try to spoil everything.

They say if it looks like a duck, sounds like a duck, but gives off that uncanny vibe, it is probably chatGPT dabbling in phishing... ...or, a seriously unqualified marketing VP at some Taiwanese toy gun dealership came up with some AI generated marketing campaign and thinks it is a good idea. (Looks like they are a real shop, see google image, so I'd give them some benefit of the doubt) -- PS any affiliation with the UK retailer JD Airsoft?

I always keep some WE valves in my spares stash. Usually just add a couple to an order if I need anything from KY airsoft

Dear Tackle, I can see your misgivings, since the media section allows people to share what they saw or liked through footage or picture, especially a mentor here pointed out some guidance if people want to increase views in their own YouTube channels, so I joined and shared our reels here. so please kindly understand, we're sincere and serious and would show respect to anyone in the forum. None taken, thanks for your explanation, pal. Dear DanBow, if possible, I would like to get your PM and tend not to disclose here publicly, I pray for your understand.

Not a necessity, but we have a lot of unknown entities joining & posting links in their threads, unfortunately more often than not their scammers etc, so as a community we try to look out for each other & raise awareness of possible risks. Don't take it personally, we just need to be diligent, anyone could join claiming to be xyz & use links that lead elsewhere.

Just looked at your website too. Seems legit. Theres no option to purchase directly from you, are you the manufacturer or a distributor?

That's a lot of words for "no"

It suddenly started working again lol

Careful guys, not entirely convinced this new member is genuine, clicking the vid might be a trojan. @Jedi_Master ?

It's a number of variables, length yes but most important being number of coils and thickness of wire. And as @Sewdhull says it's the N force in the 60mm or so in the cylinder. Every gearbox is slightly different so you'll get some variation. 1.3mm vs 1.4mm thickness makes quite a difference. Also quality of wire. I went through 5 Chinese companies before realising they their grade of steel wasn't good enough and in the end switched to Japanese steel. Quite a long, painful and expensive process! I've had my tester M110 spring now for 4 years, must be 500,000 through it so maybe I'll do a video on it soon and compare it to the new ones. For some customers who are unsure what spring to buy I've been sending out my tester M100 spring, along with their order. That way they can benchmark with the M100 and then either keep or return. Just saves a few pennies for anyone strapped at the moment.

You need 800+Celcius to anneal springs, stainless is higher. The 20FPS loss is because the spring is less pre compressed, there's no extra friction in having 1 bearing instead of 2. I'm going to explain why because it's come up before. If you compress a spring one end will rotate with respect to the other and if you have a bearing at one end, that end will rotate freely because bearings have less friction than the spring rubbing against another flat surface and once the bearing is rotating there is not enough force to rotate at the other end. The whole spring is not rotating, the wire is repositioning itself as it is put in torsion, so if it is fixed at one end the other rotates. In Airsoft we have bearings not for friction issues, but so that the spring maintains its shape and does not bend to one side or the other when it gets compressed. You could fix the spring at both ends and have no frictional losses but you would still have the spring deforming as it compresses. If you put a bearing at both ends and lets say, one bearing is a bit stiffer than the other, then the bearing with the least friction will rotate first, but the other bearing will not rotate because the force to rotate it never gets high enough since it is relieved by the first bearing to rotate. This is essentially what happens if you have just one bearing. Remember that if the spring is fixed at one end there are no frictional losses, as it doesn't move. Friction also doesn't care about area, only the force and coefficient of friction. So if you have a bearing at both ends the friction is double that of one bearing, since the force at both ends of the spring is the same. If only one bearing rotates, the friction is halved. Because the angle the spring rotates is double with 1 bearing the same amount of losses occur. Both bearings need to rotate of course for this to be true.

And we have a winner... we have Godwins Law kicking in in the 13th comment. Just as well I'm a 56yr old bloke or I'd be offended or/and triggered.

Just to add a note about the heatgun method, if I were to do it again I would do it in the middle part of the wider coil section (see image below) And I wouldn't make the spacing narrower than the existing narrow parts Because I did it on the narrow coils side and now when it compresses those coils can "bottom out" which I suspect is causing some very minor ringing noise after each shot (probably harmless, or maybe not even related) And if you do it in the middle section you won't oxidise the end coils flats (easier to clean up in middle) nor bottoming out the end coil And you will minimise the changes of any coils "bottoming out" by keeping some minimum spacing

Ultimately the thing that determines the strength of the spring is the force needed to compress it when installed and compressed in the cylinder. You can have a long weak spring that gets pre compressed on installation and will be the same rating as a short strong spring which gets pre compressed less. They are all of similar length with variations of up to 25mm from those I have. Then that option is not available to you. It's not the length that matters but how it's used. I bought a selection of AKs springs when I was trying to get the right fps on the MP5

yeah the logo is ASG brand, probably a glock 17?

KWA I think

Awesome thank you

Right, I'm enjoying this home teching malarky but there is so much to learn. Like not all springs are equal. Like not equal in length!!! I suppose common sense should have told me that a longer spring, even though a lower rating, would make it more spicy than the standard m110 spring! Who knew that G&G use a shorter main spring? Well, I did actually when the seller told me! But did I realise the implications of that! No. Well I did but it was after I had bought the new spring and wanted to get it put together. Impatient? Me? Absofuckinglutely! Anyway, got it all put together and it shoots lovely. The protruding bearing is not an issue at all. My delivery of parts from @ak2m4 just came and although I am very happy with the service and cost, I didn't need it but will definitely being using him again. Thanks Pete. So, no pics this morning but while I start searching for springs in 160mm length, can anyone point me in the direction of some? Oh, I'm probably going to take the new spring out and cut 10mm off the end. Got nothing to lose at this point!

Catch the train from Clapham Junction to Three Bridges, and there are a few good woodland sites within a very short taxi ride. As a rental player, my instinct says that, of those, you would have a better time at Driver Wood- where the terrain is a bit more of a leveller when you have the rental kit than at Dogtag.

Looks to me like you've fitted a 3mm wide bearing under the selector plate but a 2.5mm on the bevel gear. Ideally you need 2.5mm bearings. You can fit 3mm, in fact EZO (3x8x3) get their extra strength from being 0.5mm wide. EZO do 2.5mm wide but the set I tested exploded. Can you measure them?

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If you're looking for experiences, then it might be a good shout to check out the Recommend a Tech threads Otherwise, I would say it depends on your gun, what you want from it, your budget and how long you wanna wait The more experienced/popular techs will no doubt have the longest waiting times and higher cost per hour charge. If it's for your ICS then Fire-support are the UK ICS specialists and tend to have all the little obscure parts for them - their site says "Labour fee is calculated on a job to job basis, but a service is approximately 30-40." I used them briefly when I bought my ICS Mp5 on release and had a motor issue. They were pretty quick, with fast/friendly comms and sorted the issue - no problems People will have their go-to techs for things like HPA, GBBR, Tokyo Marui as those particular places will have a name for doing (hopefully) great work with them You should look to get anything minor like general shimming, changing a hop, changing/upgrading a piston done whilst booked for a service to get better value for your money/time Shimming and the mere installation of parts like that are generally included in that pricing, just not the actual cost of the parts supplied by the tech, (as you'd expect) Most techs will allow you to provide parts yourself, but will not offer any guarentee on any parts they did not advise/supply So Service+Parts+Return Postage is usually the general "quote". -IF- they offer a flat charge for a Service, then average is usually between £30-50 - depending on what they deem is part of that service. some have different versions with different prices like "basic service" or "full service" If they don't offer a flat charge for a "Service", then yeah it's whatever their hourly rate is and how long it takes them

Magpul’d the Apache , Magache? 🤷🏼‍♂️