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Saturdays expedition to apocalypse airsoft went like this: Deep lovely warm sleep. Beep beep beep. "Bogoff" Shower. Shave. Gear. Car. Rain. Motorway. Rain. Boots Mud Rain Gear up Mount Everest Money. Rain. Bacon. Tea. Blah blah kill the blues Rain Mud Tactical walking in mud Steam Mud A Few comical kills Mud Win. More bacon. Tea. Blah blah blah kill more blues Mud. Battery dead. Feck. Trudge. Safe zone. Battery replacement Mud kill mud kill dead Respawn Dead Respawn Dead. Hilarious "shit, didn't see you, point blank dead" moment. 😂 Trudge. Mud Car Steamed up windows Motorway Home. Cleaning toys. Very good day all in all. Proper muddy but lower numbers meant battles were intense. Beer. Fire. Food. 😂👍😁

Begadi etch or engrave the ground end of the spring. Maybe add a plastic ring, similar to those birds have on Thier legs. On shims...making them slightly different shapes for each thickness perhaps, tooling my be prohibitive there. Honestly tho, I have calipers so if I really want to know the thickness I could measure them. When shim tho, generally I'm not measuring the play, it's more trial and error and there's not really any reason to use one .3 over 3 .1s

I now identity as a donkey. My pronouns are he/haw.

Specnas are getting notorious for being fussy about mags, and my SA-E02 is no different. With the stock hop unit (a decent rotary) It feeds fine off of its own mid caps, and is OK with hi-caps, but didn't want anything to do with other mid caps. Reddit sez "lol just change the magazine catch lol", but nobody seems able to explain why, or for what, or how this helps. So I decided to science it out by measuring mags, and testing the feed tube interface. Specna mid cap vs M16VN short mag, total length front to rear, and from the front of the mag to inside the feed. The overall length can be measured precisely, but it's harder to get an exact measurement on the front of mag to inside the magwell tube, so I've been a bit approximate there. It might not be a full 1mm difference, but when the fronts are aligned, it's apparent that the Specna feed is further back. With the rears of the mags aligned, they're a closer match. The Specna mags also have a conical section at the top of the feed. With the hop unit removed from the gun and tested with both mags (to isolate just that issue), this provides a noticeable smoother insert: it's a smart bit of design. I'd seen speculation that the Specna hop tube was "pencil dicking" mags and not big enough to key in solidly without free play. I didn't find this. If anything, the hop tube was slightly sticky when going into the VN mags, and there was no free movement at all once it was in. The last significant point was the the BB stopper on the VN mags has a flat section that protrudes slightly into the tube, whereas the Specna doesn't. This lip provides a significant obstacle to the hop feed tube, and it needs a harder push-and-wiggle to move the stopper back and get the feed tube right in. Either because of this, or a stronger stopper spring, or something else in the magazine geometry, it also needs more effort to keep the hop unit pressed all the way into the VN magazines. Some slight exaggeration for effect: So: what did I do? 1. Carefully filed and sanded a slight conical shape on the bottom edge of the feed tube to assist keying it into the mag. There's a fair amount of material there to play with. Just give it some help to find the magazine, and to let it get and stay all the way in. 2. Do some more aggressive filing on the back of the feed tube, to produce a flat ramp where it meets the BB stopper. This looks aggressive, but bear in mind that most of the height of the tube is left intact, so there's still no free play. The BBs are going up the middle, and as long as there's any material at the rear, the BB stopper will be pushed far enough back. With this done, the feed tube isn't fighting as hard against staying all the way in the magazine. 3. Magazine fettling. Since I want to keep the Specna mags usable, rather than modifying the magwell I've added half a mm of tape at the front of the VN mags to give them the same size as the Specna mags, and to move the feed backwards to more closely match the Specna. I've put some silicone grease on top to help it slide in without tearing, and might replace it with velcro depending how it stands up. If I wanted to only use these mags, and not have the Specna mags fit any more, I'd put a velcro strip inside the front of the magwell instead. Result: a smoother insertion and perfect feeding of the VN mags. In fact, I got reliable feeding from one even before adding the tape at the front, so it seems like just a small mod to the end of the feed tube does help. The mags need a good hard push to get the magwell catch locked in place, which is perhaps where the Reddit wisdom is coming from, but once in place they're solid. That's not the problem, at least on my example, with my magazines. Best of luck.

Hi All I found this weird thing Lambda Defence GHM9-G on the internet and it looks very interesting. I was tempted with Maruyama SCW9 but it takes only VFC mags where this one seems to take WE/KJ/TM. Is Lambda Defence a solid choice? have not heard of them as a manufacturer of replicas. Any views/opinions?

Hi, I am looking for a headset which offers comms using Baofeng radio Noise protection (flash bangs in CQB or right next to you) protection of ears from BBs Do you have any recommendation that aren’t too expensive? How cheap can you go. Would an alliexpress £20-30 headset do it, would a £40-50 Amazon no-name headset do it, or is an Earmore the lowest you should go with? Thanks

I was thinking the other day what an arse it is for shims sizing identification. Toying with the idea of getting some samples made up for testing as I'm not sure how the aluminium / anodized material would hold up to the grinding of gears. Nothing complicated 0.1mm, 0.2mm, 0.3mm and 0.5mm all different colours. Think it's worth a punt? Would you be excited to use colour-coded shims? Few other solutions like laser etching but so hard to see for those of us who need old man glasses 🙂 not to mention more expensive.

I can almost understand a novice selling it like that if they don't have the skills to build it but a 'professional'?

Yes, they probably are, but it is still an expensive process.

Dave's Custom Airsoft: ripping people off since 2014.

https://www.davescustomairsoft.co.uk/SAJ06-BONEYARD?search=SA-J0 £200 for broken stock and home assembly or £240 all fine https://urbanairsoftuk.com/product/sa-j07-edge-carbine-replica-276-j07/

Yep batches of course but still expensive, even in China! I've noticed a real hike in laser etching cost recently. I asked one factory to do 500 nozzles and the cost was around 40p each, that's a huge addon to the end price and hard to justify.

I’ve owned a few airsoft guns over the years (M4, Glock 17, Sig P226), all being two-tones used for garden plinking. Either way, i should be attending my first airsoft game for the first time in a few weeks or so. I’ve got a real basic taste in firearms. I love Glocks, AR-pattern rifles and AK-pattern rifles. If it’s permissible, my dress style will be closer to militiaman than soldier or anything like that. So hi.

LOL, you know me too well 😜

I don’t know how to answer that! should I be reading between the lines here? 😂

Cost! That is a manual activity that would push the price up. Even doing it for oneself would be tricky as it is such a small surface area. I wonder how Begadi manage it at that price.

I'm keen on your springs for my future things once I use those I have. Even keener on brushless motors, if you ever do some comparisons I'd love it.

I know what you mean bud.I don't either. It's even worse when I start putting gear and guns on!😉

I have tbh I'm now running my L85 and L86 without any form of optics. If you excuse the optic on my AFV in the pic I now run it without anything. I've had a mock surpressor added and that hides a 360mm inner barrel. Having the mock surpressor gives me the length I need to aim with. The L86 is even easier to aim with, as the inner barrel is a beast at nearly 600mm and that's hidden by the outter and again I just use the end of the barrel to aim with. When I was using the red dot though I used the riser as it let me move the unit up and away from my eye. Being far sighted I just needed it moved away a bit, but I was able to get the red dot adjusted to a point it was allowing me to put a BB on target at around 60 meters.

It's such a trade off though, as the G&G version is tbh the best of the bunch out there. I love my L86, but ICS put this god awful hop unit in it and you can't change it. Well you can, if you buy English Kiwi one which I did but just couldn't dial it in to get it to a point it was consistent enough to use it. So I'm back with the ICS unit, but it is the weakest part of my build. The new Ares L85 A3 isn't great, I'm mates with a well known tech who was asked to upgrade one from new and said it was probably one of the worst bits of kit his worked on. So my hope is I can have a bit of flesh taken out of the magwell, which will let me use my Lonex mags.

Your XT springs do seem very good; I have not had any issues with them yet.

@Colin Allen from talking to the factory and my own test the zinc coating they put on those springs affected the performance of the spring in terms of power and reliability over time. Another reason why some brands use zinc plating is to help mask the poor quality of the steel underneath. Believe me when I say I would gladly have a zinc coating on these as packing them into bags you get covered in grease. I did try colour coding the piston end of my springs but could never find a paint which wouldn't flake off. I imagine some sort of powder coating would work fairly well but have to keep costs low otherwise before you know it paying £14 for a spring. If anyone has any ideas I'm open to suggestions ?

There is also more stress on the parts with pre-cocking, so you'll likely need to do maintenance and potentially replace parts more often. It's not a massive thing and it's not like your gears and piston will be exploding every other game, but over time there will be increased wear on the gearbox parts.

Was there a time when you were playing much much more ? 😏

I’ve just got an Acetech mini tracer unit (Lighter S iirc ) fitted in mine , directly to the -14mm thread that is under that cap you’ve highlighted , then the outer screwed back on . Works perfectly and you don’t even know it’s there till you need it , like just now 😛 IMG_6086.mov

I bought a stick battery to sacrifice just for this particular gun because I knew front wired MP5's are shit regarding battery space. I soldered it to mr30 and then I made a deans to mr30 adapter so I'm able to charge it. I ditched the tamiya to mr30 adapter straight away and even after that I have to pay attention not to snap battery cables but I put a magpul handguard on mine which offers even less space compared to the stock one.

Nowhere near often enough, which is why I am shite😂

Not to be that guy but I have one of the first batch (technically pre-production) versions of these and I ran it for a full game on Sunday (29th Oct) and can confirm that it is an impressive bit of kit for the price. It was hoping .3s at least 60m and that was in the colder weather and usual Scottish rain (Yellow Met Office Warning). I was using the Action Army AAP Drum as well as WE Glock mags and they all fed without any issues. It is a massive improvement over their last GBB which was the MP-443 Grach under their Raptor Branding.

It works. I have done it on a couple of builds. I run a 125mm inner barrel M4 with an M105 spring, getting 1.02J. Sorting out airseals is cheap; better O rings, maybe a better fitting cylinder head and an O ring nozzle. Good airseals also help deliver more consistent power.

And a bottle of Tabasco or Frank’s Red Hot…

Stretch the piston o-rings (or replace with 19mm x 2.5mm nitrile rings), drill some extra ports into the head, bit of silicone grease, and use rubber o-rings rather than a spring to tension the hop against the gearbox. I've seen 1.3J (oops!) out of a 229mm barrel using an M100 spring and stock CYMA air-seal components.

Just had these delivered from WuggyNuggy... Don't have my L85A2 as it's still with our local tech so I thought I'd show Dan Robinson what the elcan might look like in situ.

When I was in China, even though I was 23 years old and graduated from college, and working as a police officer in a prison, my mother would disapprove of me having airsoft in my house (shooting gel balls, but with the same structure as other AEG airsoft). Maybe you can sell your BM01, because the speed limit in Japan makes it difficult to upgrade a sniper rifle, and most Japanese airsoft's muzzle speed generally does not exceed 300FPS. And if you want to own a GBBR, you should consider whether the neighbors will come to your house because of the noise of the GBBR. Personally, it's best to keep your mom happy so you can talk about airsoft. And I'm a little curious that you don't seem to have much interest in handguns. When I was your age, I always liked short guns because they were easy to carry and hide.

The one piece of advice my father gave me about women is…… “the only one you regret asking is the one you didn’t ask out!” I’m paraphrasing that slightly, as I’m pretty sure he meant shagging and not asking out 😉 Bitd I was quite an insecure, nervous and shy lad I ended up with the prom Queen, quite obviously punching above my weight. RPReplay_Final1698657367.mov

I thought I would make a post about modifying the stock on a Krytac PDW-M MKII as I couldn't find any information about it online when I was researching and preparing for this mod. So if you are interested in modifying the stock of the PDW-M (Custom M4 Stock or Drop Stock) and are looking for a quick tutorial you have come to the right place. Let's start with just a standard M4 custom stock and move on to the drop stock after. The first thing to say is this mod was overall 100% worth the time, money and effort. Why modify the stock? Let's face it PDW stocks have a reputation for being not so great! I mean sure they work… but they are not ideal. After using the Krytac PDW-M for a while I had a few issues with the stock. Firstly even when it was fully extended it was still a little short. This made for a firing potion that felt very unnatural. Like holding my body in a stress position. The but of the Stock also does not sit well in my shoulder. Being able to fit a standard M4 Stock in place of the PDW Stock helped solve these problems. How to modify the stock This mod is really easy to do. If you Google the Part Diagrams for the Krytac PDW and the Krytac CRB you will see that the Receivers are identical. This means that the standard Krytac Trident M4 Buffer Tube from the CRB will fit on the PDW with no modifications. Just don’t forget to also grab the Sling Plate that goes between the Buffer Tube and Receiver. As far as I can tell the official Krytac Buffer Tube is a standard M4 Buffer Tube. So you might be able to save some money by getting a cheaper aftermarket M4 Buffer Tube. I would recommend you double check the dimensions before buying any aftermarket parts. I had a little extra money and just went for official Krytac parts for continuity's sake. Removing the PDW stock is easy. There is just one cross head screw inside that battery compartment. Installing the Trident M4 Buffer Tube is a little tricky and it takes a little dexterity to get the wire and washer lined up with the Buffer Tube. Again it's basically just one cross head screw and a washer. You will need a long screwdriver to fit down the Buffer Tube. I just grabbed one on Amazon for about £8. Congratulations… You now have a standard M4 Buffer Tube on your PDW and any aftermarket M4 Stock will now fit the rifle. Again for the Stock I grabbed an official Krytac Trident Stock but I’m planning to try some aftermarket ones later on. Let's move onto the drop stock… What is a Drop Stock Adapter? In short a Drop Stock Adapter lowers the Stock of the rifle about an inch allowing you to get any optic/sights up at eye level without using annoyingly big risers. I also really love the look of a drop stock and it does look awesome on the PDW IMO! My favourite Red Dot doesn't really have any legs and sits really low down. This in combination with my Dye Mask makes it impossible for me to get my eye behind the Red Dot without the use of a stupidly massive riser. It completely ruined the look of the rifle and was not very practical. Lowering the Stock eliminated this problem. How to Drop Stock a Krytac PDW? Again this mod was really easy to do. First you need a Drop Stock Adapter. I grabbed mine from the link below. https://www.badas.design/shop/g-and-g-compatible-airsoft-static-drop-stock?utm_medium=email&utm_source=customer_notification There are a handful of people selling these online so have a look around. The adapter just fits between the Sling Plate and Buffer Tube. As with most custom 3D Printed parts it will need sanding down before you try to fit it. Even with a hammer it would not fit the rifle without sanding (I do not recommend you try and hammer it on! You will break the adapter!). I found some coarse sandpaper and little model files worked best for this. You can grab a set really cheap on Amazon. I spent about 30 minutes sanding it while watching a movie and then it fit just fine. With some Rifles the round part of the Receiver the adapter fits onto (The Buffer Tube Mounting Point) will be slightly too long for the adapter. I had this problem with the Krytac PDW and my choice of Adapter. This creates a small gap between the adapter and the Receiver that the Sling Plate can rattle around in (Annoying!!!). It was only about 1-2mm wide but it was annoying me that it did not sit flush with the Receiver and Sling Plate. Drop Stock Tutorials online recommend cutting off a small amount of the Buffer Tube Mounting Point on the Receiver with a Hacksaw to fix this problem. I really did not like the idea of that! I got around this though by doubling up on identical Sling plates to fill the small gap and it seemed to work just fine. As you can see in the above image I have two identical Sling Plates together. The only other thing you will have to do is modify the Sling Plates. Normally the wire will go directly out of the Sling Plate hole into the Buffer Tube. Now with the Drop Stock Adapter the wire has to bend down 90 degrees under the Adapter. I was unable to find a Sling Plate (in stock) online with a hole big enough for this. This was an easy fix though. I just used a cheap Hacksaw to cut the bottom of the Sling Plates out. Shown by the red Box in the bellow image. No need to even do a good job (unless you want to :p) as none of it can be seen once the rifle is assembled. You will need to file down the sling plates after cutting. Mine were unexpectedly sharp and I now have a really bad cut on hand. They were so sharp I didn’t even know I had cut my hand until there was red all over the floor. So be careful. The end results. I am really happy with this mod. Having a real adjustable stock makes for a much more comfortable firing position. The shape of the new Stock also sits better in my shoulder compared with the PDW Stock. The rifle also feels way better balanced. The new Stock seems to distribute the weight of the rifle better. Overall it’s a very noticeable difference. The second from longest Stock position seems to work best for me with my choice of Stock. The Drop Stock has done its job and I now have my Red Dot on the rifle at eye level with no stupid risers. I thought it might make the rifle feel a bit off, balance wise. You really don’t even notice it at all holding the rifle. Everything seems to be on nice and tight and I don’t think it would break. Looks wise I’m also very happy. IMO the rifle looks way better with a standard M4 Stock and I love the look of the Drop Stock. So I would 100% recommend this mod to anyone who has this rifle.

I had the same thing as Alvin and it was totally fine (short version I pretty much answered no or n/a to every question which didn't specify parts) There is a question whereby if you put "yes" to RIF parts, they want you to "confirm the use of the RIF as above" - I did mark the question as "yes" but did not confirm the use of the RIF "as above" cause.. it's not a RIF. I may be paranoid but I'd encourage anyone who has this form for parts to not include anything vaguely "ukara-ry" or "defency", just in case they start demanding ukara or whatever for just parts. I still have a copy so if you want to take a look let me know and I can ping it over.

"Saw this, thought of you ..."

LOL I'd give him some extra point for the marketing bullshit though. Half of these "upgrades" are absolutely unnecessary. 🤣

Nope. Nothing yet