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Welcome to airs- oh, right. Everything that we've come to expect, from airsoft to Apple: "yOu mUsT Be hOlDiNg iT WrOnG." [and it's nothing new*]. Retailers know fine well that almost nobody is really going to see them in court, and that we'll grumble a bit then bodge it ourselves. In this case you could tap out new threads and replace the screws with larger ones, although you really shouldn't have to. That's what they should be doing, or replacing the gearbox if they can't retap them. What they almost certainly did was just screw them back in, maybe with a bit of loctite. You're past the short term right to reject, but two failed repairs wouldn't be reasonable. I'd get the gun back first in whatever form it's in, then assert that it's not fit for purpose, not of satisfactory quality, and that as it's within 6 months of purchase, the fault was there when sold. You'll need them to cover cost of having it repaired by an actual tech, e.g. Luke, or Kingdom of Airsoft, at something like £45 an hour, plus postage both ways, plus any parts up to and including a new shell. Then it's off down the usual track of letters before action, and whether you actually want to pay to initiate a small claim in court (which you can do online now). Best of luck. [*] H.G. Wells, The War in the Air, 1907 When the [defective bicycle] hirer returned, a heated pedestrian, Grubb would ignore all verbal complaints, and examine the machine gravely. “This ain't 'ad fair usage,” he used to begin. He became a mild embodiment of the spirit of reason. “You can't expect a bicycle to take you up in its arms and carry you,” he used to say. “You got to show intelligence. After all—it's machinery.”

3D printed "FANTA" cover for the surefire can, I only had red filament left so the paint has come out a bit lighter on top but I think that looks pretty good

You could do all of that, but you don't need to, just throw in the bigger spring and see how you get on. 1.88J isn't really that much for a gears-n-piston gun. In particular, I'd stick with bushings over bearings - you're just introducing a new point of failure. Shimming is always a decent shout, AOE / tooth removal, eh, you might as well, but you're picking up the piston at the point of least resistance so it's not like a heavier spring is going to radically alter what's already happening. I would focus on air seal, but with the stock components: replace and/or stretch the o-rings and silicone grease them. Other DMR owners will disagree in order to justify what they've spent on making the bestest DMR evarrrr, and they may even be right, but my rule of thumb is that if you change everything at once, then you'll have no basis for believing that any particular component added the magic.

Totally didn’t, thanks for the info. Am off to follow some people on Insta now …. Also gonna Google what a Chicago stud is, although I’m slightly concerned I’ll get a load of American male strippers 😂

I skirmished at combat thetford yesterday and was talking to the marshals about my upgraded ares mutant and my new l85a3 and whether I could use it as a dmr on site. As long as it's locked to semi auto and not over 1.88j it's a dmr in their eyes. Luckily I can lock it to semi auto with the ares programmer, so I don't need to permanently turn it into a dmr, or do anything like put a screw by the fire selector and ruin the looks of the gun. I also checked if that's allowed and they said as long as I have to do more than just pull the trigger a certain way to reprogram it I'm good. This way all I need to do to go back to a full auto aeg, in theory, is change the spring to reduce the power and reprogram for full auto.

@Madhouse the slings I mentioned are 'real steel' (I really hate that term) but, because of that, you know they're unlikely to suddenly give out and send your pride and joy tumbling. You do pay for that privilege though, and often have to buy addition furniture (QD attachments, rail mounts etc) as well. Tactical Kit are great for holding stock and often run discounts, especially if you follow ATRG and/or Geardocrow on Insta. Apologies if you already know this btw. Magpul are another good option from what I hear, as are Viking Tactical, Haley Strategic and I like the look of the T-Rex Arms too. Bear in mind you don't need to spend the earth, but a decent sling will pay you back, and for me, 2-point is the way to go. The main point of your post though - having your own gear - no escaping it; you're one of us now!

Something like this? Ping me a message @Ronin0033. I can knock up something in whatever metal or plastic you fancy.

A similar conversation was had a week or so ago, so I'd advise having a look there:

Agreed with the above, You may find the sling when loaded, pulls down and the rear of it will be on your neck, I’ve seen players use a Carabiner through the “drag handle” on the back and through the sling to stop that happening. I’m sure a couple of decent cable ties would do the same. I tried cutting up a Yoga mat for simulation plates, was ok , but again too flexible so I managed to “procure” a couple of swimming floats A little 1/4” trim to help shape and they make my PC look like it has proper plates in it 👌

And he’ll remove the red for you ……. Probably with Wet & Dry Feck Right Aff Saahn 😂😂

no worries, give me a day or 2 to find it and modify it again. it's on one of these external HDD's somewhere!

if you're aiming for a snappy build then you'll want a mosfet with precocking, something like a warfet or ab++ will be fine if you're not switching between semi and auto often. the warhead is definately the motor you'd want for this, i'd go with a standard speed and as mentioned above if that's not enough for you then upping the gearing and/or battery voltage remains an open possibility.

Yeah. Good point. That will at least deaden the rattle considerably I would hope. And I just so happen to have a roll of adhesive Velcro.

Nice. If you want to print another with the correct name, let me know and I'll send the file across (yeah I made the Fanta one)

How about this dreamer? Sure it is "new" but two tone....in exchange for a bolty...oh and extra gas for better bolty.... Madness

Recent post about my 1911 mags not firing a full mag.... When I first got my gun I saw a co2 spring that's beefier than the one that was in the gun! At the time, thinking the spring may help with fire rate or just assuming more power = happier me, I swapped for the bigger spring! Knowing now it only effects the recoil I have swapped them back. As I have since purged and oiled the mags, I'm now getting a full mag plus 15 shots before it's out of gas! This won't help with the cold issues but I feel better knowing that atleast the gun and mags are sound and I was the problem all along! I'm not giving up on finding a cure for the cold freezing up the mags outdoors but I'm glad that I can atleast shoot full mags now. To all who commented trying to help me, I thank you but thankfully the issue was the idiot behind the gun and not the gun itself!

Personal opinion The Ares L85 isn't the best platform to DMR, I can predict issues, their gearbox cases aren't the strongest

I've done something similar recently. Perun Hybrid, 13:1 gears and base 27k motor. Seems fast enough for me - I generally run on 7.4v. Could probably have just used a 35k motor, 11.1 and not changed the gears, but in some ways it's easier to get a slightly slower motor and have the option to increase speed (with gear or battery change) than it is to have one that's too fast and be stuck. Ran it last weekend spamming semi all day and only used about 50% of a 1300mah battery.

Great info so far. My brother and nephew always play outdoors. In terms of gun style I was thinking a AR style, I’d rather something that’s good at range than some nippy little thing. I keep seeing NOVRITSCH pop up in videos but then there seems to be equal amount of negative about them. I’m guessing there’s a few brands which are known for quality and have good upgrade path. I think to start with I’d rather keep away from gas. My brother has swears by some knees pads…so I’ve added some trousers with inserts to the list.

I was the op in the above thread and I ended up going the cyma platinum route. Only had 2 games with it but so far I'm very pleased with it. Other than switching out the hop rubber I really don't think it needs anything doing to it 👍

Went to a pole dancing club tonight. Bit rubbish really. Every dance was a polka.

STAY AWAY FROM WEYMOUTH I witnessed some terrible behaviour by the seafront from a couple arguing in front of a load of kids. It started off as an argument but soon escalated to violence. The police attended the situation, the lead police officer tried to placate the couple but had no choice but to use his baton on the bloke, but the bloke managed to snatch the baton and started hitting the police officer and the woman with it. Then a crocodile turned up and stole all the sausages.

You said it’s easier with the upper receiver off , what’s it like with the bolt held back ? Same as with the upper completely off ? I always try and get in the habit of loading and unloading with the bolt or in pistol case slide held back .

I'm playing my first game in a loooooong time, and went a bit bananas today trying to work out what I needed. So I put all my kit into a spreadsheet (and greyed-out the stuff I'm not taking / don't need) It's a bat-shit crazy amount of kit I know it's quite an OCD thing to have done... I wish I could attend to important things with as much diligence The TL;DR version is Comfy clothes (plenty of cheap army surplus available) Decent boots with some ankle support (the first time you trip over a tree root or stick your foot in a hole, you'll thank yourself for buying them) They're a very personal thing, but I took a punt on Swiss Paratroopers' boots which are heavy, but good. Eye protection: Bolle Tracker 2's a cheap and good starting point, or British Army ESS goggles perhaps. Half or full face mask (cheaper than a visit to the dentist) Perhaps a Dye full-face mask if you're thinking of CQB. Baseball cap or bush hat (scalp shots hurt, protect yourself at least a bit) Gloves (knuckle shots hurt too) - Mechanix are great value. Battle belt or chest rig + mag pouches. You can just stuff things into pockets, but it's just not tacti-cool If you're thinking of spending upto £500 on a RIF then you could be choosing AEG, gas or HPA "The world's your oyster" - make some friends and ask to try their guns out on the field for a few shots, you'll soon get an idea which way you want to go (might be all 3 of course, in the long term) We usually advise it's best to rent for a few games, make sure you really enjoy it first before splashing major cash though. There are plenty of separate threads for more discussion on all these things so have a search... see if they help at all. Good luck and have fun! (And call your hits)

Drops straight in, I've not had to alter the motor height for any of them. I've had a noticeable improvement in trigger response on semi, the torque difference is night and day, and a tiny improvement on RoF. DE told me that the stock Chaoli motor is 19,000 RPM, however they didn't say at what voltage, and I use 11.1v.

@RostokMcSpoons Stonking motor for the price... https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/motors-parts/xt-high-torque-motor-22tpa-long-fan ... got one in all of my DE M900's now 👍

The Novritsch looks nice enough, but it's marked as 'out of stock' for both the polymer (EUR 229) and metal (EUR 299) variants. So unless you're prepared to wait for them, DE would seem to be the best bet. Amazingly enough, BBguns4less seem to have been consistent for a while in actually having DE's in stock... https://bbguns4less.co.uk/products/double-eagle-m907d-ar15-rifle-with-falcon-system-in-black.html Here's the shorter. less expensive variant that I run (and has been great for me) £189 is about as cheap as it's been anywhere for a couple of years now. https://bbguns4less.co.uk/products/double-eagle-m906c-ar15-rifle-with-falcon-system-in-black.html If you'd rather go with Patrolbase, they have this one https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/airsoft-m4-ar15-m16-variant-assault-rifles?*brand=61&*inst=y Edit: The only thing that a couple of us have had issue with is that the stock spring seems to become weak and inconsistent fairly quickly. Thanks to the fact springs are cheap (get an M105 for £10) and the Quick Change system works beautifully, its' a super-simple fix. (The motor also tends to get a bit toasty on extended full auto fire, so some day I'll get around to changing mine. While it works though I'll leave it as-is!) Edit: I see the Rate Of Fire on the Novritsch is a big step up from the DE's. That and 'pre-cocking' seem to be the main advantages over the DEs. My 906 runs at about 16rps on 11.1v, so it's not a massive gap, but the choice is yours...

@Madhouse that's a special feeling, having your own kit, right? 😆 Sounds like a cracking night. On the sling front, 1-point have their place, but long guns aren't one of them imho. I also don't like getting nailed in the balls if i drop my rifle for a pistol. Big fan of adjustable 2-points (padded BFG VCAS and a Ferro Slingster) which I find far more practical. There are a ton of options out there, including the adjustable ones that go from 2-point to 1-point. Just try and avoid the really cheap ones unless you're happy to see your musket bounce off the concrete.

Finally got the team together for a photo

Read the room, dude...

Hello peeps.... Had a frustrating conversation with the airsoft shop today... Took the Rapax M7 I bought at the start of December in because the pistol grip had come loose - again. The day I first brought it home, the grip came off completely, and it was evident that the 4 screws had been stripped in the factory. Took it back the next day and said that I had tried to put them back in, but it didn't look good. Shop tech rather abruptly said I might have voided my warranty; but took it out the back and did something to it. I was given the gun back and no charge etc. Scroll forward to last week and the gun's 4th time out, and the handle goes all loosie goosy again; so dropped it back to the shop. Tech guy half pretended he didn't remember the gun and started waffling on about it might only have two screws which isn't enough for a gun that heavy, or I might have been holding to wrong, but would have a look. Phoned this afternoon to see if there was any chance it was ready for tomorrow, to be told it might be outside the warranty period, and that either way it might not be covered. I told matey boy firmly, but politely that it would be under warranty and that it was the same fault the gun was sold with. To whit, he said it would be looked at on Monday and that they'll get back to me. Won't name them just yet as it might turn out to be a nothing-burger; but "welcome to airsoft" memes aside; do these merchants realistically think they can get away defining their own Consumer Rights Act by stating a two month warranty? I can understand limited warranties on batteries and gears, but not the structural integrity of the gun itself. Various terms spring to mind: An unreasonable contract is an unenforceable contract. These [consumer] rights effectively overrule any warranty and guarantee for the product As an aside, Patrol Base were excellent recently when the boy's L85 shit the house. They sent a returns label with no questions asked after I sent them a video of the gun sounding like a strangled cat and not feeding properly. Turned out to be a simple motor height issue and the hop. All sorted and sent back in around a week FOC and a good 4 months after they sold the pew. I was expecting and willing to pay for the shipping, but they covered the lot. Tah in Advance!