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Showing content with the highest reputation on 20/12/22 in all areas

  1. "Tuppence"... steady on there Grandad 😆
    2 points
  2. That's bullshit, even the short HK416C rail (from all manufacturers) is different in profile at the front Some of what he's selling are just two-tone re-sprays - namely the P90 (screws are still blue), the MP5 and the AK. Real dick move to not even mention that in the descriptions.
    2 points
  3. 2 points
  4. Shamal

    Tell Us a Gag. Please!

    I got over my addiction to chocolate, marshmallows, and nuts... I won’t lie, it was a rocky road
    2 points
  5. I'm scared of being stuck in a lift with Father Christmas. I think I have Claus-trophobia.
    2 points
  6. Same guy I pulled over his badly painted overpriced detonics, didn't even reply to my comment, obviously a bodger/chancer 🤬 & unlike here, no option to report a post on Zin, not that the mods there give a feck anyway, but call someone out as a possible scammer etc & they're all over you like a tramp on chips. Someone needs to post on his thread regarding all the issues with the gun, I'd do it but I'd probably get accused of bullying him or something lol
    2 points
  7. GHK RPK to go with my AKM Now, has anyone got a spare kidney they arent using?
    2 points
  8. when shooting on semi auto, the motor spools up, completes a cycle, the cutoff lever trips and the motor spools down. as the time when the motor stops is controlled by a mechanically timed cam from the sector gear, it usually stops in a consistent place every shot, depending on friction etc in the box. when firing in full auto, the cam is disengaged so the timing of when the motor stops running is dictated entirely by whenever you decide to release the trigger, which could be at any point in the cycle hence the nozzle stopping in seemingly random positions. for a gun in good health, this is just a normal part of how they work. depending on the state of the motor and gear train you can sometimes get instances where a gun might fire twice in semi auto (usually a fast motor that's not too strong at slowing down) as it's got enough momentum after the cutoff lever trips to freewheel round a whole second shot. likewise you can get the inverse of a motor that's not quite strong enough to do a standing start when the spring is compressed, which means if you get unlucky with the timing after a burst of auto, it'll stall when you try to fire the next shot. this can be controlled by some mosfets, the term "active brake" means a mosfet that uses electronic braking on the motor when it's disengaged, think of how a cordless drill can stop almost instantly from full speed. can be useful for curing double taps but more often than not it'll cause the opposite issue, stopping the motor so quickly the cutoff doesn't reset properly making the gun lock-up on semi. the term "precocking" applies to mosfets that intentionally run the motor a little longer than the normal cutoff time, by dialling this in you can have the gearbox stop with the spring very nearly about to release, with a motor strong enough to start in that state it means you can have a very quick response time (ie time between pulling the trigger and the gun going pew) without having to speed up the gun in auto (which can cause problems). if you take the same idea of a precocking timer and make it longer that's how you get burst fire. some mosfets can even do "cycle detection", which basically means they don't bother using a cutoff at all and instead use (usually optical) sensors to keep track of where the sector gear is and control it's position. they're expensive but it means you can control where the gun stops wether you're firing in semi, burst or auto meaning it always stops in the same place.
    2 points
  9. Oh dear This makes my Pee-Pee tingle 😎 0
    1 point
  10. 1 point
  11. He's now claiming the rail hasn't been cut. What a throbber
    1 point
  12. Please do, he's got a shitload of kit for sale, if it's all as crap as that one he deserves some public humiliation to warn others. EDIT. couldn't help myself, I had to dive in there with ya🤣
    1 point
  13. Can I light the fuse please😉
    1 point
  14. Went on the Z1 forums for the first time in ages. Came across this little gem: https://forums.zeroin.co.uk/forum/classifieds/rifles-smg-s-for-sale/electric-rifles-smg-s/3295006-specna-arms-sa-h03 Just some minor issues: - No markings - could be a respray but could also be a generic 416 lower - Wrong grip and stock - ASAP sling plate, without the loop for the sling - Missing mock Bolt release - Missing Dust Cover - Missing mock Bolt - Missing gas block - Oh...and missing ENTIRE FRONT HALF OF THE RAIL! Notice none of the camera angles show that it's been cut. All yours for £180. Nice
    1 point
  15. Ranger

    Various parts to move

    *Pts aeg grip £25* A band new one sells for 20 quid mate, link here https://airsoftdirect.uk.com/pts-epg-m4-grip-aeg-black/
    1 point
  16. That was an excellent explanation, but the tl;dr version is: don't worry about it. Even the semi-auto reset position will be effected by battery voltage and amp supply, how cold the spring and how viscous the gearbox lube is, and whether you're dry firing, or actually shooting BBs to provide some back-pressure. That last one in particular is why it's not worth trying to "tune" for a perfect nozzle position unless you're doing it by shooting the BBs you intend to use with the hop set for them, and pulling the mag repeatedly. Airsoft is an inexact science, and while trick mosfets can give you a little more consistency, you really don't need them. If it cycles and shoots most of the time, it's good.
    1 point
  17. I've noticed that if I look into the hop-up unit through the magwell after shooting on full auto, the nozzle will be a little all over the place, but if I shoot some 3 shots on semi the nozzle returns to where it usually sits. I am curious as to why this happens? Also, please forgive me if I used any terms incorrectly since I am quite new to Airsoft.
    1 point
  18. Magpulised. 😂
    1 point
  19. Which colour, attachment method and retention style? Rough budget? Generally you want '7.62' pouches, they'll look wider and shorter than typical 556 or AK pouches. If it's a fabric pouch and fits G3, M14, M110/SR-25 or SCAR-H it'll also work for the FAL mags. Surplus L129 'sharpshooter' pouches will be far sturdier than the bottom end of the china clone stuff yet still cheap: https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=mtp+sharp&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_dmd=2&_odkw=sharpshooter+pouch&_osacat=0&_sop=10&LH_PrefLoc=1 Or these are very well made and a good sale price: https://www.uktactical.com/product/warrior-single-7.62-x-51mm-open-short-mag-pouch-multicam-6029
    1 point
  20. Not cheap but Tacos will fit pretty much any mag.
    1 point
  21. I can't believe I've been sacked from the clock factory after all the extra hours I put in!
    1 point
  22. If your gun is stock internally and fps is consistent +/- 4 fps then I’d look closely that the barrel, mags and ammo are good and clean. IDK what nub and bucking you are running but it’s always best to have a perfectly performing stock gun before trying ‘upgrades’. Throw a stock TM bucking and nub in for a baseline/fault tracing.
    1 point
  23. if it's a stainless barrel definitely not stock the NRGs come with brass barrels. the fairy dusty falls out when you change parts. I was out this weekend with 1 degree temp i could get out to the 60m targets on the range with 0.28g in stock NRG 416.
    1 point
  24. leadly

    TM AA12

    Sounds perfect! 😂
    1 point
  25. THIS ADVERT IS 'UNCOMPLETED' - THIS MEANS THE ADVERTISER HASN'T BUMPED THIS LISTING, BUT IT COULD STILL BE WORTH CONTACTING THEM.

    • For sale
    • As new

    G&P M16a1 Very good condition used maybe 3 times at Gunman ColdWar Events This is fitted with a Gate Titan set for safe,semi,3rd burst Combat South ‘s’ hop modification so need to use .32’s Deans Battery connector Comes with 4 magazines 3 are TM 68rd and 1 unbranded Std all fit and feed well. Paperwork for modifications will be included These are difficult to locate now this was one of the last ones FireSupport had in stock. I would like in the Region of £385 I’m located in the Tw15 area if anyone would like to collect.

    £385

    1 point
  26. for a support gun there's not really much call for anything more than your basic contact-saving mosfet. motor wise as mentioned above brushless would be an option for more longevity, certainly make servicing a bit cleaner what with not spewing carbon everywhere. rof wise there's arguments that speed chasing on an lmg is counter productive, and will in any case be likely more limited by the magazine than the gearbox. as with any gun it'll benefit from a good consistent air seal, but given the higher ammo consumption of support guns lot of folks won't be running the heavies for cost reasons which would put a ceiling on how far it's worth chasing perfect accuracy.
    1 point
  27. AGR

    Cyma parts help

    You bleddy beauty, thank you so much. Ordered it, last one available. With the new non cone AK74 flash hider as well as these handguards, it'll look like a beast. I might bore you all with before and after pics. Al
    1 point
  28. £200 for a couple of x-poice red-dots. Externally a bit beaten up but the optics are crystal clear and the red-dot's are fully working. oh and I ordered on the 12th and they arrived on the 14th (very well packaged I may add).
    1 point
  29. Update on my kit, proper belt kit and hokster setup now added
    1 point
  30. 0 points
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