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Navy SEAL Stoner Gunner loadout.

Everything has been changed, except for two of the most important bits...

So true, I'm fed up seeing "getting a new/first gun, what upgrades should I do" threads, just use it FFS, as your likely to fook it up trying to throw money at it. Some great budget guns out there, I'd rather buy two variants, instead of buying one & then spending as much again trying to make it something it's not, nor will it ever be lol.

This^😂

Bargain that at £250... Can I have one too? lol

Been saving a while for this bundle - back to work now so I could buy it all for €250 - that’s what I told the misses anyhow. - Scorpion evo combo deal with extra battery and charger. - Upgraded 120 spring and steel bearing guide - Xcortech compact tracer and silencer adapter - Scorpion evo field hard case - I am a sucker for cases - it came with a canvas one but wanted this one - Vortex Crossfire Red Dot - TM micro pro sight for my FNX 45 and an Olight on the way to finish that off

not to mention, and this methinks is the more important point, that a stock gun put together by someone who knows what they're at can shoot as well if not better than a gun haphazardly thrown together from the most premium parts you can get.

Pretty sure that's a life jacket/vest/preserver, not sure what the SEALs call them.

Out of all the wars, Vietnam was my favourite.

Bullseye country sport continue to amaze, I ordered this at midnight on Monday! Also, on a side note, I had to bring my own mug to work

Well.. my wallet has taken yet another beating... Bought myself an Osprey MTP plate carrier that also came with a couple of pouches, a missile flight case to carry my barrett and other large items, a "commando" jumper and a large ammo can. Plan is to make foam cutout liners and then use the flight case to carry my barrett, as well as possibly other guns i currently have/ are planning on buying in the future... as well as fit some wheels to make it easier to maneuver (its a heavy bastard even without anything in it) I will also be repainting the ammo can and then making some dividers/trays so that i can amalgamate all my mags/grenades/bbs/gas etc into one container, instead of sorting through 3 or 4 .50 cal ammo cans every game day to find what i need for a particular loadout. Everything was bought from The Battle Barge based in Leighton Buzzard. Oh, and i also bought an EMG john wick hi cappa and a couple of Vorsk mags plus a hard shell holster and MOLLE adapter from onlyairsoft in stevenage...

Not so much "what have you just bought", but more like "what have you just won" I've just won a brand new Marui USP 9 full size!! Thanks to @rocketdogbert for recommending the Airsoft competitions website (from the guys at ROE airsoft). Absolutely made up, DogBert will tell you've I've been umming and arring over buying one for months! 😅

The MWS is done, not spending another dime on it ©️! Next to that I still have some bits and bobs from the MWS left, and some parts from my Block II FSP build, if anyone is interested, send me a pm, everything is going relatively cheap

did a commission 3d print of an MWS outerbarrel/collar (for ultralight builds) and i really liked the concept, so i made one myself for my pdw build. also a new 3d buffer tube arm brace, and tanker style muzzle device. this thing has RECOIL!

A little covid DIY project for those who don't like rubber magpuls and want something more like these for your MWS stanag mags. You need: 3mm kydex, M3x10mm countersunk screws, saw / knife, heat gun, drill with 3mm - 5mm drills and countersink Cut the kydex into squares (I made mine 58x58mm) either using a saw or simply scoring it multiple times with a knife and snapping it Drill and countersink two holes along the center to match the screws on the base of the magazine. As the screws go into the mag at an angle it helps if you angle the countersink a bit too (as is done on the standard base plate) Unscrew the standard base plate but keep pressure on it, slide the kydex square over it, and secure both with the new longer M3 screws Heat the kydex square slowly with a heat gun, shielding the mag as much as possible (my mags all still seal afterwards... but this is is definitely not great for them) While hot, quickly tighten the screws a little more to help pull the kydex into the tabs on the base plate, then bend over the flaps. I got the tightest bend by pressing all three sides in with some wood scraps for about a minute, before then letting it cool completely with the main sides pressed in a vice... its a bit tricky to get a sharp 90 degree bend into 3mm kydex, but you can always re-heat if you're not happy with the first result Once cooled, unscrew and slide off the kydex again (keep pressure on the base plate and re-secure it with a screw...) to drill the hole for the gas fill valve. I tried drilling this hole at the start, but because the kydex warps when you heat and bend it I found it tricky to get the location right You end up with a nice 3mm ledge on the back and front of the mag which helps to get a grip on it, and the kydex adds some extra drop protection too. Not sure what the extra strain will do to the screws in the long term, but I don't imagine its that bad. Enjoy!

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