Leaderboard

Not sure I understand? The clip is attached to the mag, the 2 "hooks" slip into molle webbing or your belt, prety simple stuff.

Yeah....that's not true. The colour means absolutely nothing.

How so? It's no slower to lift a mag off your belt than out of a pouch.

Ah yes, I saw one of these wrenches earlier. Guess it is going to be an unavoidable purchase Thanks for all the replies

Black Allen keys are imperial & silver Allen keys are metric so it's possible you need the silver ones

Holsters are best mounted right on your belt, or very close below if for some reason a belt mount isn't physically feasible (such as thick body armour preventing the draw). The IMIs are pretty decent quality, you sure get a lot with them considering that surprisingly low price.

Use whatever your gun shoots best. It all depends on hop up and starting fps. The more rigid a hop the more it suits heavier bbs for accuracy but no point having bbs that travel too slowly either. Forget all about 2inch groupings and such as long as you can hit a torso and your bbs get there before hes ran off is all that really matters.

The heaviest BBs the hop can lift.

The Furniture is different i believe.

It depends on how technical you are. The Gun itself is fully compatible with the VSR10 parts as the other post i put up, so using ASPUK for parts would be a good way to look after it!

I've been having a go with .30s, still need a bit longer to decide properly, but so far I'm impressed with the consistency, I'm even considering shelling out for a magnified sight come payday

I probably wouldn't use anything heavier than a .28, not worth it in a normal assault rifle generally in my opinion. Would probably stick to .25s for cost reason even.

No worries, if you want a scope for it also -- http://www.amazon.co.uk/CVLIFE-3-9x40-Optics-Sniper-Hunting/dp/B007UT3OFC/ref=pd_sim_sbs_200_9?ie=UTF8&refRID=0APWWXA5C3G16DTC2JRN Please bear in mind, you will need to spend some time Zeroing this as it won't be setup out of the box. I know a couple of sites in Kent that do range days, so if you're near them it would be worth it.

If you want to upgrade your hop then as the other person says, go for it but again if it ain't broke dont fix it. My G&G HK416 is still pretty much stock and shoots well though i too have been considering changing the hop. If you do i would say that a flat hop will be much better than R hop. whilst R hoop will give a better range the time and effort it takes to fit is a butt whilst a flat hop can be done easily. Heres a youtube video on how to do it:

cheers mate look awesome

You'll need a wrench with pins that fits into that inner ring. And some elbow grease.

Not heard about them, where have you been? They are meant to be the best stock aeg you can get atm. They have an internal mosfet in the gearbox, shimmed, aoe corrected, special holes in the gearbox I think, good hop up system and quick change spring. I have t heard a bad review of them and they are meant to be incredibly good Here's a review: And another from shizbazki

aye, NEVER fire the gun with the stock folded. folding the stock is only to make it easier to store and easier to carry inside vehicles. if you feel you might get the temptation in some CQC, fit the stock tube adaptor that comes with the gun, buy an AEG buffer tube (theres a ghk one specifically for the G5 which will cost you about £20) and put a cheapo stock on there. theres another thread just above this one LINK where someone who just bought a g5 asked about maintenance, ive put a couple of posts in there detailing my daily maintenance i carry out after every skrimish and if you read down it also covers the best way to fix a mag leaking gas

Airsoftforum.com the big retailers also have forums too I think asgi and air splat do

Get yourself a small set of Park tools allen keys, they have a better "Square" cut than the cheaper ones. If you completely screw the head up then you can but from Halfords a small kit (About £20) which can remove them.

7/64" allen key comes out at 2.771mm to 2.8mm it is rounded up to decent cheap imperial allen key set or it "might" be a Torx, or a Torx "might" just grip it bastid small tiny ar$e scews

So I got a new outer barrel sorted for the Raider Old one New one with removable sight

It's a piece of plastic made by crye. It won't be flimsy.

its a pack of 3

No. You can buy a gun from TWG but without a valid defence Customs would seize it and destroy it when it enters the country. Do your three games, get your UKARA and then buy the gun.

None of thats really going to make a lot of difference in airsoft its a different animal. Most skirmish days wont really give you the chance to play how you want, there is usually very little real tactics involved. Most games are usually quite simple objective games and more often than not its a bit of a free for all. Look into milsim games they are more serious and require planning and real team work. Some milsim games wont let you use a 2tone though.

They look all well and good for use on the range or if you're the sort of player to stand around a lot but if you get stuck in I'd expect you'd get a lot of dust and crap in your mags

I own the CYMA 701b. Purchased from Taiwangun for £80. To begin with: If you are comfortable to lay down, wait for about 30 minutes for one kill, and move on then carry on. Onto the gun itself: The Gun breaks into three sections, The furniture is Plastic, make no mistakes. As such it is very light, this can be fixed by using weights / poly filler or whichever. (I actually would suggest using filler of some kind, as it removes the reverbrations of sound from inside the furniture) The Barrel / Trigger Mech / Cylinder are the heaviest parts, and in balance it easily requires a strong support arm otherwise you're going to have a bad time balancing. There is a trigger guard which comes seperately and requires you to attach it to the trigger mech before then attaching to the furniture. Three screws, farily secure with no movement. As for upgrades, this will completely accept VSR10 uprgades. - Check here for a complete list of parts / and a guide to doing so. It fires (Chronoed personally and at shop): .2 = 490 FPS .36 = 365 FPS For aethsetics you can potentially buy a M700 wood furniture for this, and with a little bit of work, it will sit snugly. As for the mags comment above, you get 3 with the gun from TWG and each one after is £10 a pop My main concerns with the rifle out of the box? It has a crimped metal cylinder. This WILL become fragile and break with wear, So I completely suggest changing it sooner than later. It is light, as mentioned above. There are no sling loops. Anything you would like to know specifically?

Its so tempting to 2 tone my gun for a laugh. Would just love to see peoples faces when the crappy two tone out shoots their pride and joy.

My "tacticool" KSC/KWA Skorpion vz61: May not be the prettiest thing but damn does she shoot well

What is WW2 Airsoft?: WW2 airsoft comes in 2 varieties. There are airsofters who turn up for normal airsoft skirmishes in WW2 gear. We shall ignore this for the purposes of this guide. -Basic WW2 games. These are the best games to start with. Gear needed will be down to personal choice but basically avoid modern camo and if you don't have a ww2 era gun or wood stocked rifle you should wrap it in hessian. The more effort you put into your gear the more you will get out of the event, but no-one will expect you to spend a fortune if you cannot afford to. -Niche WW2 games. The equipment requirements for these are bit more specific. There may be a specific era that gear should be based on. As an example, I have a game coming up set in 1940 with only rifles allowed. This means that uniforms must be correct for this time as far as is possible. All WW2 games will require you to act as part of a squad. Running around as a lone wolf is frowned upon. In fact many games have a rule that if you are the last member of your squad alive, you cannot advance. Usually the game will have some sort of story-line built into it so you have to achieve certain objectives. The Uniforms, teamwork and story-line add together to produce games very different and more immersive than a normal airsoft game. What gear should I get? Choose a side. American, British or German will be usable for most games. Russian will get you 1 or maybe 2 games a year, Japanese have never been done in a game yet. Get a hat. The helmet shapes for each side are very different so headwear is important in identifying teams, if you cannot afford the rest of the uniform, a helmet is a good start. Plastic replicas will do the job just fine. Start with basic infantry uniform. Your bog standard infantry are the guys who do all the work and are at every battle but don't get the glory. The fact that they are at every battle means that once you have this look sorted, you are ready for most games. You can then adapt your gear to be a commando/airborne/SAS etc. Guns!!!: Any WW2 era gun is fine for any side. You may feel you want the right one for your uniform though. Start with a SMG. The ASG Sten is very good, the ASG MP40 is quite good and there are several different Thompsons. There are also some SRC MP40's and MP41's which have a poor reputation. Webbing: Each side has their own webbing and it can be a bit confusing working out what bits you need and how to attach them to each other. British webbing is probably the most confusing but is by far the best webbing of the period. Boots, gaiters, anklets and puttees. Boots for most are low ankle combat boots with either anklets, gaiters or puttees. This means that you can get away with more modern cheaper boots if you can hide the tops with the anklets, gaiters or puttees. How do you find the gear? Ebay is good, Whatpriceglory.com is good for uniforms, Soldier of fortune http://www.sofmilitary.co.uk/ is good for most stuff but tends to be expensive, http://www.epicmilitaria.com/ have a lot of stuff and if they have it, are probably cheaper that SOF. Other army surplus shops, web sites or re-enactment events may also be worth a look. Time to find a game! The place to find a WW2 airsoft game or get more detailed info about anything WW2 airsoft related is ww2airsoft.org.uk Before you go there, some words of advice: The forums there are not as friendly seeming as they are here. Try not to take offence when on the ww2 airsoft forums, people are trying to help by telling you how to be more correct in your gear etc. Unfortunately often this comes across as unfriendly, nit picking etc. Until the internet allows tone of voice in forums, just assume people are trying to be helpful. British Gear Starting with basic infantry, you will need a helmet, battledress, pattern37 webbing, anklets, boots. The helmet you will need is a brodie mk2 helmet. There are cheap plastic versions which will do the job just fine. These cost about £10 on ebay Steel versions consist of a steel shell with a liner bolted to the top of the helmet and a chinstrap. The liners come in different sizes and are sized by your head circumference in inches. You can cover the helmet with hessian or net and add hessian scrim. Ideally it should be brown but it was not unknown for them to get repainted with whatever paint was available (ie. whatever colour vehicles were being painted). Battledress comes in several varieties. I use denim battledress mainly due to a wool allergy. Denim battledress was used everywhere as overalls so you didn't get your wool uniform dirty. It was also used in warmer weather so is very well suited to battles in Italy, greece, crete etc. The important thing though is it is better for staying cool and is usually cheaper although you will rarely find any original stuff. Soldier of fortune sell it in a green colour and What price glory sell it in brown. Then there is P37 wool battledress, this is the most popular choice. It is usually some shade of brown but as it was made all over the commonwealth to different specs it varies from pale brown to dark brown and even green. P37 battledress has pleated pockets and concealed buttons. P40 Battledress is similar but pockets are not pleated and buttons are exposed so that it can be made faster and cheaper (basically after Dunkirk, the priority was to re-equip as fast as possible). Reproduction wool battledress is quite expensive and it is often cheaper to buy an original jacket. Unfortunately original trousers are very rare. You can get away with post war P49 battledress but it varies in having an open collar with lapels. Pattern 37 webbing is complicated so heres a diagram: The bits you need most are a belt, a pair of cross braces and a pair of ammo pouches. Try to get Mk3 pouches with popper fastening. Pouches with the quick release will do the job but are really post war versions. MK1 and MK2 pouches are slightly smaller and will not fit the Sten or MP40 mags. The best way to buy webbing is to watch ebay for a full set, expect to pay £40-50. Webbing should have brass buckles not steel ideally. If the colour of your webbing bits doesn't match, don't worry. You should ideally use Blanco, think of it as paint for webbing. Get modern liquid blanco and brush it on your webbing. Soldier of fortune sell it in different shades, mid ww2 is probably best. Brush it onto the webbing making sure to get it into the texture of the webbing. Only use it on the sides of the webbing that show. Original blanco would rub off so it was not used on the bits of webbing that are against uniforms. Anklets should also be blanco'd but gun slings and gas mask bags should not. When you want to add to your webbing, get a water bottle. These are enamelled steel covered in felt. If you are lucky the inside will be in perfect condition, otherwise you may need to insert a plastic bag and secure it with an elastic band. The stopper is a wine cork on a screw. There are skeleton water bottle carriers (as in the diagram) or envelope versions. You will need to get the carrier damp, put the water bottle in it and then pack cardboard between the bottle and carrier to stretch it while it dries. This makes it a less tight fit so you can actually remove the bottle and put it back in more easily. Packs. There are 2 sizes of pack (large and small). Large packs were used to carry everything in when on the move. Small packs are what you would carry supplies and equipment in during battle. For either pack you will need a pair of L straps, these attach to the top of the pack and go over your shoulders and hook onto the ammo pouches, the narrow webbing then goes under your arms and to the bottom of the pack. On the small pack the L straps then attach to buckles on the bottom of the pack. On the large pack, there are loops instead of buckles, the L strap goes through the loop and then you attach blanket straps to the L strap. The blanket straps basically extend the L strap so it can go over the front of the pack crossing over and attaching to buckles at the top of the pack. This allows additional items to be strapped to the outside of the pack (a blanket perhaps). If you have both packs, you can use an additional cross brace as a shoulder strap for the small pack and wear it as a shoulder bag (I often do this when travelling to games for extra carrying capacity. Anklets or gaiters They look so simple don't they? Just wait until you have a pair and try to work out which way they go. Basically they go over the top of your boots adding ankle support and preventing anything getting into the top of your boots. The buckles should be on the outside of your legs with the straps facing backwards. So the top one in the pic is the left one and the dip in the middle would be on the inside of your leg facing downwards. They come in different sizes 3 and 4 are most common and it depends how big your legs are. Boots should ideally be ammo boots They look similar to modern ammo boots but DO NOT buy modern ammo boots. Modern ammo boots have been redesigned so they do not flex. You can get repro ammo boots, but they are expensive. Next best is DMS boots these are effectively correct but with a rubber sole. Remember though that you are wearing anklets so the top of the boots is hidden, you can therefore get away with higher leg boots such as S95 boots. Avoid boots with padding around the ankles as this will make it hard to wear anklets. If you want to go all out on boot correctness, leather laces are preferred. Additional accessories you may be tempted by: Gas mask bags come in 2 main types; Early war versions are the big bag mounted on your front, These are excellent as dump pouches and if you keep speedloaders and bb's in them you always have everything to hand to refill mags when things are quiet. Lightweight gas mask bags can be used as a shoulder bag for you lunch, or they can attach to the belt. Entrenching tool or E-tool comes in 2 parts, the helve has a bayonet fitting so you can attach the spike bayonet from a No.4 Lee Enfield to probe for mines or cook sausages. The head fits inside the carrier and the helve goes on the outside and the carrier attaches to the tails of your cross braces. It adds a lot of weight, get one for show but don't wear it during the game. Bayonet frog for holding a bayonet Pistol Holsters, don't bother. Only officers had pistols so if you need a pistol keep it in a pocket, gas mask bag etc. Okay so thats pretty much everything an infantryman could possibly want or need. Now you want to be something more elite? Airborne loadouts are quite common. All you need in addition to the above is a denison smock and an airborne helmet. The smock will cost about £100+ but you can save a bit of money by getting a belgian denison smock, which is similar. The helmet will cost about £80 but the same shell was used in tankers helmets until the 80's. If you buy a tankers helmet is is possible to modify it at a later date, with a new liner, chinstrap etc but it will cost just as much in total. Once you have the Denison you can do commandos by switching to a wooly hat, green beret or normal helmet. Similarly SAS is just a different beret. If anyone wants to do an American or German guide, just post it in this thread and PM me so I can add it here