Adolf Hamster

ahh the joys of airsoft "compatibility"

fair enough, always worth checking the ammo/mags, i've "fixed" plenty of pews simply by putting some decent ammo in them. given it's primarily an auto issue, i'm still leaning towards tappet delay, if it doesn't have a delayer chip then the nozzle will return to battery before the mag has had a chance to feed the next round. other potential culprit is hop feed lips, but that'll usually manifest in semi too.

hmm, that sounds extreme for an ar reciever to be off by, but if it works it works. the feeding thing kinda sounds like it may be the ol' lack of delayer chip/weak mag/sticky ammo combo. easiest thing to try would be the ammo- refill the mag with something different see if that helps, although usually it's a symptom seen more on midcaps rather than hicaps (as midcaps tend to be double stack store single stack feed).

possibly some dirt/scratch in the inner barrel? usually clipping tends to be more erratic than this sounds. alongside the usual suspects of the sights/sight mountings all being tight and square too. does the barrel look off when tightened down? eg compared to the line of the reciever/stock? same applies to if the barrel is even straight, if it's maybe taken a knock at some point. one possibility might be to try a thin o-ring squished between the barrel and receiver (thin as don't want the barrel pushed too far forward). might help, might not, but if it doesn't then no harm done. yes indeed, removing material is always a last resort. be hesistant to think you'd be able to improve things without being really damn careful or using proper machine tools (and even then mounting an AR upper square in a lathe isn't a task i'd envy)

absolutely, do this all the time. if your first thought is "best of three" then you know what you really wanted underneath.....

which one do you use most? because that's the one you like most, and should keep.

always take claims of airsoft range with a big heap of salt, for starters airsoft meters are well known to be a different length to metric meters, and many folks will have different versions of what they mean by getting hits, dumping half a magazine into space for one round to barely be noticed, or firing one shot straight and level and hitting every time, wether it's a full target or someone hiding in cover etc. eh, can be tricky to tell. i've never done any proper range testing always went with just how it felt in the field.

nano will just give basic contact protection, but tbh given the contacts are gonna be yeeted anyway when you go optical you might even be happy enough to live with that. at least it's not the g&g version with it's weird trigger pack

aye that's the one. if you're gonna go optical in the long run then not much point going with the wired options short-term then as they'll end up redundant. not really sure about the perun vs gate thing, never really ran any of the perun options although they seem to be relatively popular.

aye, bang for buck i'd say they're one of, if not the best options out there atm. in fairness, i am starting to wonder if you're getting near to that being the limiting factor. as with all things it depends on how far you want to go in terms of when you think good enough is good enough. yeah, particularly see if that's the main cause of the horizontal spread.

aye that's the one, very basic but will let you drop-in a warfet. that is assuming you don't want to just go straight to putting a warfet in there.

no need to make it any longer/shorter, better to stick to the original length. i'm curious to see what a ZCI 6.02 will do to the grouping as they're damn good barrels (especially given the price) ahh, see i'm including the full range (the 280.8 and 276.8) and i have unrealistic standards

i get the feeling, especially after you've got used to it almost puts you off getting new pews when you realise how much work you're gonna end up putting in before it's up to par with the rest of the collection. if you're going to be cracking out the soldering iron anyway it's a perfect time to switch to a mosfet, if you dont want to splash out for a warfet just yet then the nanoasr uses the same contact setup so you can just swap it over later on.

ahh, sneaky editing still some room for improvement with the air seal then, but as with all these things it depends on where your personal standard of "good enough" lies. shame about the wind, as curious to see what the spread is as-is with what i'm guessing is still the stock barrel?

worth checking the fps consistency on the specna's as well. one of the quality elements of good ammo is weight consistency (and by extension velocity consistency) for a given energy. generally stock hops on a lot of guns aren't strictly bad, issue is they're just not intended for the combination of heavier ammo/colder climates. hard to tell from just the grouping if it's wind or natural dispersion in the horizontal, but the vertical looks decent.

generally you do need to be very precise with nozzle lengths. too short (and 0.3mm can definately be enough) and it'll not sit tight to the feed lips on the hop bucking and cause an air leak (reduced fps and awful fps consistency) too long and as long as it clears the feed tube then it'll be ok, but if it doesn't clear the feed tube then needless to say feeding issues ensue.

yeah, i'm not personally much of a fan of that type (preferr the standard type with wide ports) although for an aeg i don't mind the slap when firing. aye, one of the drawbacks of going with the less common pews. although ak2m4 normally has a decent selection.

worth mentioning seeing as you're going for replacing the air seal components to think about the nozzle too, especially if the stock one doesn't have a sealing o ring. otherwise that's pretty close to what i'd be thinking of dropping in there, i always struggle to recommend specific parts because there's always that chance X part might be off and won't work (which i've had plenty of times, it's how you accumulate a parts box) those silent type piston heads can push the aoe back, which depending on the gun might mess things up although it looks in this case (using very rough judgement based off one picture) it looks like there's room for it to shift back anyway.

aye thats when i mean, right after it was added and you'd get a notification every other day about it.

yeah but clicking is so much effort, even easier to just not read whatever it is you don't like reading.

kinda depends on your goals as to what parts you might want to change out. certainly for outdoor use i'd be thinking about air seal related components, particularly the nozzle, cylinder head & piston head. piston teeth is one that's debatable, there are good arguments for having plastic teeth as a failure point and steel racks aren't immune from failure (having the racks ripped out of them assuming the gears don't eat themselves first). that port cut is confusing me, looks kinda far for the barrel length of an f2000. where's @Sitting Duck when you need him he's better at this than me

i wouldn't worry too much, outside of a bit of fun in the early days seeing who spammed the most, i (and i presume others) haven't really bothered with them.

oh dear..... to start off with the main spring- you can shove a screwdriver (or similarly sized pokey thing) through the back of the spring guide and use that to help hold it in position. some v3 casings might not have a hole in the back of them to accomodate (usually for v2 boxes they do as that's a stock attachment point) but you can file a hole in the casing. usually, if you seat the spring guide nicely then hold pressure on the cylinder it shouldn't jump out too far- you can see the way he has his fingers through the window on the upper half when placing it in position. the sector moving side to side defo sounds like you've lost a few shims. i'd say get a pack of @ak2m4's 0.1mm shims as they always come in handy: https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/bushings-shims/xt-shims-01mm-100-pack you can also get clips that help hold things into place, never used them myself but mostly because i've never got around to getting any: https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/gearbox-helping-hands-kit

it always takes longer until you build up the experience of how things go apart/come together, how much pressure to place/not place, what angle to use etc etc, sadly so much of it can't easily be explained through writing and just needs many attempts to establish the "feel" required. even when you've got a good handle on things it can still take hours to do a build properly (and that's if the build is well behaved and doesn't throw up weird issues) what specific bit are you stuck on?

not really, the method shown in the video is pretty much the right method, although i suspect there's heavy magic of editing that's primarily responsible for making it look so slick. it's really hard to describe the movements, but you first hook the loop of the spring with the trigger, then go for getting that end of the trigger into the hole on the casing, then worry about angling the transfer peice into it's respective hole. magnets and a lot of swearing. as long as the pins remain seated in the lower half, when closing the shell together you can apply light pressure then proceed to wiggle/poke the various ends into their respective holes.