Adolf Hamster

it's a pretty common thing for different sights to have different levels of tinting to them, especially with the cheap replica stuff you get in airsoft. replica eotechs seem particularly prone to this. can't remember what brand mine was (i wanna say WE? although god knows who the oem was) didn't have as much tint as others i've seen, although the downside was that the reticle would be pretty easily washed out in bright daylight.

so issue number 1 is very common, and not really an issue per-say. essentially the motor and geartrain still has momentum when the cutoff lever trips and will roll round until stopped. it's basically free precocking, as all precocking does is intentionally run the motor a little longer so it stops near the end of travel. a mosfet with active braking will remedy this (although sometimes can go too far and stop the system too quickly giving lockups on semi), a better solution would be a mosfet with precocking which will let you intentionally control where the box stops. issue number 2 i'd say is happening because you're testing it outside of the reciever (going by the picture), assuming this is going to an ar derivative (the sr-15 in your profile) then when you put the gearbox into the reciever and bolt on the buffer tube/stock, the bolt that threads into the back of the box will go into the spring guide and hold it tight to the back of the box, stopping it from tilting.

i have had this before, guns that would barely spit out bb's at chrono only after a couple dozen shots spend the rest of the day exactly on point (i've also had the inverse- guns that would chrono perfectly then proceed to fall flat on their face the moment there was an actual target to shoot at) one possibility is gearbox alignment, if the nozzle is scraping the hop such that it'll stick the first few times then be ok. although this should be evident by any wear patterns on the nozzle.

depressing the trigger slowly sounds like you're getting far enough to trip the contacts, but not far enough for the cutoff lever arm to engage and kick it out.

i always thought it was a mix of propane and butane, more propane there is (as a relative %) the higher the pressure. although i don't really have any factual basis to back that up.

Try some o rings to space the hop unit against the gearbox, not too many though as you dont want to put too much load on the hop

i forget that folk actually put protectors on their lenses. unless it's a simple case of popping in a disc of polycarb into the existing housing i just run them plain and accept that at some point they're gonna get shot out. in fairness, i've only lost 2 optics to hits, one was funnily enough option 2 during a night game (had the thing for years before it took an unlucky hit) and the other was a repro eotech took a bb as i was shooting out a window (again after being used for years)

ran one of them on a jg ak for a long time, no parallax but it's still impressive that they can put together a usable sight for £15.

i take it the mosfet addition is something you've wired up yourself? a common cause of semi lockups can be when a mosfet is applying an active brake effect to a build that doesn't need it, stopping the system too quickly before the cutoff lever has been properly disengaged. However my electrical knowledge is limited to the simplicity of plain dc wiring and getting an off-the shelf product to do the magical silicone based shenanigans, so i can't say if your setup is doing that or not.

i feel for ya man, that really sounds like it sucks. hmm, there's an aug-m4 adapter on thingiverse and an m4-mp5 adapter. assuming they've got the measurements correct could merge them together to get what's needed *fires up cad*

i'm impressed you can read the dates of events and inferr correlations from a chart with no date axis.

yeah paintball being legal but airsoft not being is an odd one, i mean a paintball gun is a tad more potent a projectile launcher than anything airsoft can put out. guess maybe it's the ol "omg gunz r scary" approach. hmm, i'd been assuming the bent ones were needed. *goes off to do more googling* if it's just a 3-D printed adapter maybe easier to see about getting one printed that can take the curved mags if you can get those?

so you can only import the shells? not gonna lie, that's some messed up restrictions, and here we are thinking brexit was bad. going by the link i'm assuming you're talking cyma mp5 mags like these: https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/cyma-130rnd-airsoft-mid-cap-magazine-for-smg-5? edit: some cursory googling seems to suggest finding a bunch of mp5 mags in stock in the uk might be a challenge in and of itself......

might be useful to know exactly what the import restrictions are ie exactly what the process of de-airsoftifying would require and how to declare something as australia compliant?

The issue with open dots (option 2) is when its raining you get just one drop in the emitter and say goodbye to the dot. Ofc that depends on your site and personal play choices as to wether or not you care about rain. I'm also not a fan of that particular style in terms of the way the adjustment is setup that it can be knocked off zero. Easy enough to push back against the stops but thats after you've missed. Yes the enclosed tubes are more obstructive, but with an unmagnified dot you just keep both eyes open and it'll mostly ghost the frame. Closer it is to your eye as well will help keep the field of view nice and wide.

i've never really encountered many of the electric variety of loaders, general airsoft lore seems to suggest they aren't the greatest generally citing limited power or poor reliability. however an alternative proposal would be to look at the odin M12, it's manually operated but significantly quicker and easier to use than a conventional type loader (to the point reloading mid-game is entirely viable). it's built for m4 mags but you can get adapters to fit other patterns (the evo included). there are a ton of clones out there with mixed opinions on their efficacy (commonly seems to be handles break on them) but the original model is a very reliable peice. ofc the odin won't really work well for pistol mags, but it's not so bad to load them with a traditional loader.

maybe his phone died halfway through posting and he hasn't been back since charging it?

yes it's a glock that's missing some paint and had some shiny bits glued on?

geoffs. 0.48 super precision for low round count guns, 0.32g super precisions for pistols and everything else.

Im not sure i wanna see what taran would do to an ak, or a makarov for that matter.......

generally 40mm ain't gonna be too much of an effect volume wise, especially as a proportion of the total length we're dealing with here. but if it makes it easier to source then defo a bonus. the real challenge is gonna be getting the main system sufficiently consistent (air seal etc) to really take advantage of a good ammo/barrel combo.

in fairness, certain upgrades for certain platforms can be relatively predictable. for example it can be relatively predictable that the hop rubber on a WE won't like the heavies, so changing to a ml bucking would be sensible. although yes changing every single component generally isn't a requirement and i'd certainly question generic lists where the same parts are listed for a range of different guns from different manufacturers.

690 is a long barrel, think the longest i've seen be relatively available is 650. there wouldn't be any harm in dropping 40mm from the end, there are those that'd argue beyond 500ish is too long for an aeg anyway. sadly hard to comment, only aeg i've used with a barrel that long was the '42, and needless to say accuracy wasn't exactly a priority with a gun like that.

can't say, but given the zci 6.02's are well known, well regarded and pretty affordable sounds like the easier option to go with the known quantity?