Adolf Hamster

i mean part of me is genuinely curious as to the standard of workmanship in those guns. although not £1300 curious.....

i wish i had the money do to that just to send it to luke.....

is it bad that i could all but predict the parts list in that m4? admittedly i'd have said maxx rather than pro-win for the hop, but guess they only took every even-numbered reply from reddit.... not gonna lie, looking forward to seeing luke get his hands on one of these....

I was thinking more that letting that green wear in, get scuffed up etc to show black underneath would look quite good, if the 2-tone wasnt showing. Motor springs can work sometimes (assuming that's long enough) and smaller diameter than a mainspring. The carboning can happen surprisingly quickly, remember working on an ak that looked immaculate save for the carboned contacts. Can be hard to track down, tbh if it were me i'd be re-wiring it, but then if it were me that'd happen for a mosfet regardless of the state of functionality of the original setup.

That has scrubbed up nicely, the only thing i'd be worried about is as it wears in the 2-tone might still show up underneath, which might spoil an otherwise nice looking pew. The lost parts thing, well it happens. Part of why keeping a hold of random odd spares is worth doing because you never know when the differential bushing of an hpi baja will find a new home as a spacer for a mainspring in an airsoft pew..... Not fitting parts because they're a pain is something i've done plenty, you do a "barebones" rebuild to make sure the important stuff is working right then when your sure its all good you can go to the effort of installing the awkward and annoying bits that dont really do much important. Sadly i dont know sigs well enough to help with where the current missing peices should be going. Wiring wise it does sound like theres an iffy connection somewhere, did you split the box? Could possibly be carboned up contacts?

There's always one.....

i must admit, having used mainly russian gear mostly in the name of comfort (having never really gotten into the exact replicating a loadout thing) it's a tricky one. as has been mentioned a lot of loadouts can be interpreted offensively depending on the person viewing it, and it's generally accepted that it's just part of the game and often people's choice of loadout doesn't mean an affiliation with that nations politics. but given the present circumstances it's probably best to avoid it if you can for the time being, presumably if you're a site regular then folk will probably for the most part understand if you show up in the same kit you always wear because that's what you have. on the flip side, you could argue that no matter what you wear taking part in pewing whilst the ukrainians are having to deal with it for real has an element of disrespect, and perhaps, as someone mentioned in a status update, sending this weekends pewing fee's to the red cross or similar humanitarian organisations would be the right thing to do that this time.

Fun fact- you can also lock a we ct25 into one of those holsters

you can do it manually, so normally it should be done when an item has been sold (eg i do it when i have received money on paypal). sellers who aren't doing that will only get a week before the ad expires and they presumably won't bump a sold item. usually i tend to ignore any completed ads and only really pay attention to uncompleted ones if i really want the item (in which case i'll send a message knowing there's a decent chance of no reply) op- assuming you're messaging folk about current ads (ie not completed/uncompleted listings as above) you might want to think about how you're opening conversations with folk, a friendly "hey man, i see you have an ad running, is this still available?" will give a better impression than a blunt "where u live?" or "gie ye a fiver" low-ball offer. i do make a point of trying to reply to everyone who messages me about ads, but i can understand how some folk might not do that, especially if it's an account with minimal forum presence. another thing to bear in mind is that sometimes pm notifications can be a bit iffy (well, i've had a couple of occasions where it doesn't give me a notifications for new messages), so sending a chaser message isn't the worst idea, although obviously you don't want to spam someone's inbox every 5 minutes demanding a reply. rule of thumb i tend to go with is at least a full working day as folk may well not be visiting the site on weekends if they're out doing things (the most obvious example being out playing airsoft), if i've sent a chaser and they don't get back then i'll just assume they either don't visit that often or for whatever reason don't want to reply, sometimes they do reply a week later sometimes that's where it ends.

So there's presumably not many people playing airsoft, or if they are theyre doing it for free so why would they pay?

^what he said

The "licence" is more of a defence, and you'll need it for any gun-shaped-object of the airsoft variety. Of the 2 you've listed i'd lean tm, if only because vfc have a reputation for making pretty but unreliable pews. The best option would be to get your brother involved in the process, assuming he's already into airsoft he'll have a better notion for what he specifically wants and have the relevant defences to buy it. It does take the surprise element out of the gift but i reckon he'd preferr that to randomly recieving a 2-toned pew that may not be his cup of tea.

tbf, the v3 aint that bad. now the v7 on the other hand......

pretty standard for non QD boxes for the mainspring to make a bid for freedom when separating the halves. a screwdriver through the hole in the spring guide (the same one the stock tube bolts into) pressed/angled down and keeping pressure on the cylinder when popping the halves will normally stop that from happening.

wind would definately do it, if that weren't a factor i'd be thinking that kind of dispersion there's maybe some grit in the barrel (assuming there's no supressor shenanigans that the rounds might be clipping) and so it begins

Good to hear she's shooting again. Is the side-side dispersion more than the vertical dispersion or just in general wider than preferred?

it can be as simple as it was just an off day, although the better the site the better the "average" level and the less frequent/bad the off days will be. although there remains the ever present issue of it being spoiled one way or another. the winning and losing thing, well folk take different viewpoints. personally for me on regular skirmishes i don't really care if our team won or lost, indeed a well-fought loss is imo more fun than an easy victory. however if it's a running theme for the whole day then there's the ever present question of team/game balance, which is something a good site should be paying attention to and adjusting teams/game rules to compensate. i would certainly say it'd be worth it for you to try a few more games, and some different sites. if you're still getting the same feeling out of the ones available to you (ie reasonable driving distance etc etc) then at least you know gave it a proper go.

that's just how they are, blame keanu for that one if you dare part of me feels sorry for them in terms of how tricky that'll be to sell at that price. the other part of me thinks that's gonna be a valuable life lesson for the kid to realise you can only spend it once and certain things don't hold their value.

I'll take an akula if they have any going spare

I mean they are portable, if you have a 65,000 ton ship to do the porting.....

yeah, they can be tricksy hobbitses. at least using the 2-wire setup you get random firing rather than a short (with associated bad smells)

sounds like there's some bare wiring making contact somewhere, possibly against the gearbox shell? active brake will stop the motor based on when the mosfet isn't getting a connection, so whilst it should be reasonably predictable in normal semi-auto operation (as the col will trip at a predictable time), if it's in auto (which is the same as if it's getting a faulty contact signal) it'll just stop wherever it happens to be when the contact is broken.

there is. pinching an image from google: the portion of the hammer visible in that picture tends to fracture when converted into finest chinesium, usually the lower half of the "loop" breaks off leaving a stub of the upper portion (which is visible in the adverts picture- you can see the 2 points where it's fractured). the main body of the hammer remains and the pistol can be used entirely normally, it just looks bad and the fractured stub will be sharp.

it is visible in the pic, although granted i did know what i was looking for. the skeletonized hammer in that model is pretty well known for breaking in short-order (dry firing or no). it is primarily aesthetic (gun still fires) and afaik pretty sure standard hicapa hammers do fit.

i have a tenuous grasp on reality at the best of times, this isn't helping