Adolf Hamster

Dodged a bullet then Unfortunately the soldering (and depending on gearbox type dissassembly) is going to be on the cards for any mosfet that's using the original trigger components. Personally i like the gate system, with the 2 signal wires to the trigger and 2 heavy wires to the motor as once you've gone to the trouble of soldering the gun the mosfet can be easily unplugged and moved to a new home.

hopefully that's not a "got the despatch email before reading this" kind of oh bugger?

Suppressors do work very well on hpa/gas non-blowbacks where theres minimal action noise.

Personally, i'd splash the extra for the warfet. The merf i found to be dissappointing and finnicky (read impossible) to properly program. The warfet has more functionality (namely proper precocking) and the programming card is easy (if slow) to use. Edit: worth noting that the wiring requirements for the merf and warfet are identical, so the warfet wont be any harder to install/swap between pews.

The f2000 would probably get a vote. Reasonably long barrel for less muzzle pop, plastic body to dampen the noise and most of the noise being cradled by the shooters body is a pretty good recipe for quietness. That said, it isnt that quiet as the user given your ear is right next to the box so i'm mostly relying on the comments of others. Generally when it comes to quietness its usually hpa's and gas non-blowbacks (mk23, revolvers etc) that get mentioned, where you can be standing 6 foot away from the shooter and the sound of the bb's hitting the target is more audible than the gun.

You forgot the 20 minutes dedicated to listing every individual control on the gun and how ambidextrous it is.

As above the perun ab++ or its gate equivalent the warfet. There are other mosfets that do burst like the merf but tbh i wouldnt really consider them worthy competition. Either way they'll need a seperation of wiring between the trigger contacts and the motor which for most gearboxes means cracking them open. Thats one of the reasons i like the gate ecosystem, as if you wire the gun for a cheaper basic mosfet like the nanoasr then changing up to a warfet is a plug and play operation and you could theoretically swap one mosfet between multiple guns (if you note down the settings for each pew). They have some disadvantages, specifically that because precocking is reliant on cutoff timing the first shot after a burst of auto wont be timed properly, which depending on your shooting style and disposition could range from inconsequential to annoying.

For 11.1 thats probably a sound ratio. I would say the non-maple leaf nubs can sometimes be a bit off-square, so i'd typically go for the maple leaf branded one. If cash is shorter then an external mosfet like an ab++ or warfet could be substituted.

Those numbers look pretty similar to me? If anything auto tends to be more often in the sub 310 range than semi. Spring twang can sometimes be resolved with precocking, getting the spring immediately under tension after the previous shot, although that comes with the unfortunate downside of also making the gun feel more responsive.....

brushless + ab is unknown country. yes it is reasonable to expect that brushless motors won't respond in the usual way. however the builders of brushless motors will be taking into account that the airsoft community is going to treat them like any other motor. from my own exp the warhead motors react as any other motor would to being governed by a mosfet, beeps and all.

Had one a good while ago, WE do make a few decent pistols (and some truly awful ones) and the sig imo is kinda upper mid. trigger is awful, the pot metal slide doesnt do the gas effeciency any favours, it doesnt like the cold much although the bb lobbing capacity for spaced out shots can be made good with @GiantKiwi's suggested hop/barrel combo (although i go for shimming under the hop arm rather than changing it) + some good ammo. Good as a holster filler/occasional pot-shot gun but a tm is going to be better if you're planning anything more than that. A minor point is there were 2 rail variants (afaik based on rs but thats citation needed) one with a curved rail and one with the more standard square rail (as you have pictured). I had the latter and some holsters moulded for the former are a tight fit until they get bedded in but at least it fits standard accessories more readily.

Its the polish, you'll notice they feed in/out of mags but in-flight its not enough to make a tremendous difference.

Fair

.2's? Cant be that mad then......

[Rantmode] Or buy a few dozen speedloaders and bb's in the common weights. Or a set of digital scales. Or invest in some tape to write the fps readings for different bb weights on the chrono Or just memorise the site limit for common bb weights. Or read about joule creep and what it means. Or spend ten minutes googling why fps and joules are different things. Or take the chrono with them and randomly spot check players Or re-chrono players when they're complained about. Or actually kick players off when they do get caught. We dont need airsoft sites to fully understand the intracies of physics as they pertain to airsoft pews. The community has done that and served up practical solitions on a platter and even then the majority simply cant be bothered. [/Rantmode]

that's the dead internet talking. forums remain a bastion of actual enthusiast dialogue, and whilst this place has a particular feel (read: if you're a kickingmustang alumni you may not feel so welcome) it remains a safe place to chat airsoft related topics without the usual internet plague of adverts and bad opinions.

that's a cure for the timing bug. essentially, there's a point in the cycle where the trigger will go kinda dead as the cutoff lever is still engaged. flicking to auto overrides this and lets it fire with the odds being when you flick back to semi it's unlikely to have stopped in the dead zone. this is why i reccommend against active braking mosfets if they aren't paired with precocking, as they can stop the box right in the danger zone. although that doesn't sound like what's going on here if the trigger is dead after a blast of auto.

Can the barrel extension be milled further forward so the hop/inner barrel can be slid forward to clear the nozzle on dissassembly?

I'd be ok with it, for no reason other than as far as i've ever seen there are only 2 types of comms you'll get in a skirmish: 1. People who forget they have radios and hardly ever talk 2. People that announce every single little thing they're doing like they're narrating a minecraft lets play And in both cases i suspect you wont get much information that can be used to your advantage. As for milsims, unless part of the sim is specifically targeted as "we're pretending we have military grade encrypted comms" i'd also see it as fair game.

Assuming we're dealing with the platinum box, then tbh the airseal should be pretty on-point ootb. A tan macaron+omega nub combo, your choice of nice stainless barrel (xt/zci/pdi), the right spring strength (ie not massively underpowered) and some good food will have it quite far up the diminishing returns curve without even opening the box. Hop unit is perfectly fine, imo unless you're dropping a combat union in there then it's not worth changing. The one peice cylinder looks superficially like it should be bad, but it isnt, i'm not sure i'd consider anything else an upgrade. The nozzle could be swapped for alu, but it has a sealing o ring and i've used stock e&l nozzles as upgrades for other pews. The piston head is a rare example of a mushroom style that actually seals, although i've typically swapped them for wide ports (if you do change to a conventional head then you'll want to shim it to bring the aoe back in line). Piston is a weak point, but intentionally so and you probably dont need to change it if you're not going to be speeding the box up. Anything else you'd consider short of selling your soul to the hpa devil is for the goal of snappyness/rof rather than range/accuracy. A mosfet is reccommended, at least a basic model (eg nanoasr) for contact protection (avoid active braking unless it has precocking).

My gut feeling is it'll be too tight to fit in the gas tube of the e&l, although it might go under the dust cover.

everyone kinda has their own standard. what i typically would have done was asked for ukara, then seen if the site code exists on the ukara site listing. if i'm feeling a little sus i at least see if it's in the same general region (eg a mainlander isn't giving me an ni site code). otherwise i just slap the number on the box and call it good. i've also had folk give me re-enactor id (afaik re-enactor id is only good for relevant pews, ie you can't sell an m4 to a ww2 re-enactor, although in my case that didn't apply), and once dispatched a pew via a local shop we both knew. in buying i have had folk either not ask or even accept my forum presence as a player, although ironically my forum presence would now be a tad deceiving as i'm not playing these days. end of the day the requirement is that you're satisfied the person your selling your gun-shaped-object to is going to use it for airsoft pewing or other permitted activity, and afaik there isn't any real definition/precedent as to how much effort needs to be put into verification.

I think they pulled the doc martens strat of cheaping out and living on their reputation. So an old pair will be great, not so much a new pair. Lowas were what i moved to after my magnums went and i'd say are superior in all respects.

The downside of the tightbores is needing more frequent cleaning, which is fine for a lower round count pew like a pistol

"there are two things i hate in this world. People who are intolerant of other peoples cultures and beliefs. And the dutch"