Adolf Hamster

i'd presume it's mainly the accuracy of the output gauge reading over/under the actual psi reading (compared to if you'd measured it with properly calibrated equipment) eg when the real pressure is 60psi, the balystik says it's 55psi and the storm says it's 65psi.

personally i preferr the tan, and the g&g version i had the colour was leaning more towards dark earth. tbh anyone looking at the gun to judge it usually stops at the piscine resemblance and never gets far enough to worry about the colour. if the end game is to go for that paint job probably better to go black, as that'll match closer to the blacks on the camo scheme than the tan will to any of the other colours.

best days airsoft i ever had there were maybe 1 or 2 pews that didn't have airlines. even though i was on the dark side myself at the time i saw all those air lines and thought "well today is gonna be shit", but boy was i wrong about that. basically every usual gripe about airsoft proceeded to not happen the entire day and the closest thing to dickish behaviour (and i'm really stretching the definition here) was opting to fire one round somewhere it wouldn't hurt over risking a (non-mandatory at that site) bang kill. when the players aren't arseholes the gear they're using becomes irrelevant.

i have in the past dabbled with the brrrt side of things and tbh whilst you can punch through undergrowth that a slower rof couldn't, it's otherwise of limited utility, certainly if it's being acheived at the expense of accuracy. it wasn't long at all before i was voluntarily dialing it back because it was difficult to not send more than the necessary amount of plastic downrange. generally the figure that i've heard most sites implementing is 30rps, which tbh could still be argued to be on the fast side, and as long as it's applied equally (as in any gun is limited not just hpa) then i don't see it as a particularly unfair rule. with that said, folks can still be a dick and overshoot with a lower rate of fire, it just takes longer.

definately this, takes all the pain out of loading midcaps.

in case it wasn't clear from everyone else, tinkering straight away isn't the greatest idea, especially when you don't have a reliable backup. don't get me wrong, tinkering on pews can be enjoyable and rewarding for those so inclined, and i do recommend people learn it themselves because in the long run it's great being able to sort issues yourself, buy secondhand with confidence etc, but the time and place to dive into it is not when you only have one pew, no experience and nothing to fall back on should it not work out. as someone who didn't take that advice and jumped straight in trust me the walk of shame when your latest experiment has resulted in a gun that doesn't shoot, or shoots so badly it's unplayable gets very old very quickly. ^ is definitely a better avenue for you to look at spending your money/effort on, you can include things like slings, maybe a red dot (unless you prefer iron sights, that's fine too), magazines (eg midcaps+a decent speedloader if you don't like winding hicaps). once you've got setup and are comfortable you can try grabbing a cheap secondhand gun and have a crack at tinkering with it, safe in the knowledge that your main gun is going to still serve you well when needed.

As long as it aint rolling into double firing overspin is just free precocking.

why do you want active braking? without precocking active brake is generally not that useful, even detrimental, outside of a subset of builds that are using the old school "just make it faster" approach to trigger response.

tbh i wouldn't even go that far initially, nowt wrong with the ml macaron+omega combo but no sense cracking open a brand new gun (and voiding what passes in airsoft for a warranty) until you've got a clear benchmark and goal as to what you want to improve.

whatever floats your boat i suppose. point is, there's more than just the gun performing optimally that makes for a good days pewing.

certainly it wouldn't be enough to warrant the risks associated with opening the thing up with limited teching experience. first rule of teching is make sure you have a reliable backup gun before you start messing with it. in the early stages the money would be better spent on other accessories. for example i'd find a bunch of midcaps and an odin (with adapter) would increase enjoyment more than putting the money into making the gun shoot a bit better. but then i really, really hate hicaps.....

might also want to check with the hop set- sometimes having the hop completely off will result in lower readings. you want to start with it completely off and go up in small increments until you find that sweet spot where the bb is going pretty straight and not flying upwards too much, it'll be good to get familiar with adjusting it as sometimes in-game being able to tweak slightly can be handy for getting some shots to land (eg turning it down to drop rounds behind a barrier). once you have it set, the thing to check would be shot-shot consistency, see what range of velocities you're getting (eg 305-315fps) as that's a gauge of how good the airseal is. as mentioned, good to just run it for a couple of games, get familiar with how it's shooting and get an idea of what areas you might want improved, no point going all out for extending range if your playstyle means you rarely use it.

tbh my money would be on WE to be the ones to have a crack at it, either that or it'll maybe end up like the grach.

yeah, the protrusion the top strap hooks into can be the same as required for the piston head. still reckon the fire control module is going to be the trickiest part of making it work, it may be they'll have to thin the magazine at the top to make room (ie the mag will step down from the back face at the upper end)

i dunno, the gap behind the bolt face seems to be primarily the result of using the top mounted hammer (same idea as the hole in an AR bolt) i'd assume an airsoft version would be using a concealed hammer- similar to how glocks are setup, so that space could be used for a BBU as the hammer doesn't need to strike the chamber area. wether that can be packed into the gap between the grip and mag ofc is a different story.

classified section is this way -> https://airsoft-forums.uk/classifieds/ you're probably going to struggle selling as a package, yes it's convenient as a seller to chuck it all into one big box but you're going to be severly limiting yourself to finding someone who wants the entire combination. plenty of folk might want a new ak, but will have their own rigs, likewise plenty of folks might have an ak and want a rig, but not many folks want both at once.

you had to bring that up, i'd just about got that blanked from my memory......

i'm sure it'll happen eventually, although wether or not it's any good is a different story. that said, the pews airsoft manufacturers do/don't decide to make has no logic....

that's possible?

must admit, my initial thought was an FR, although wasn't entirely sure. very cool project looking forward to seeing it

if you got it secondhand maybe the seller still has the part? might be worth asking.

yeah it's part of their appeal for ak's, not really milspec ofc but close enough for airsoft standards. oh for sure i won't deny there's lots of good shooting m4's out there, but just like a cyma ak with a few tweaks will be just as proficient at lobbing bb's as an lct/e&l the reason to go for the latter is when you also want that extra bit of attention in the look/feel of it. a fair point, hence my curiosity given that just because it's got the e&l name on it doesn't mean it'll be the same standards as their own products. that is with the assumption that it's a rebrand at least, they could be making them themselves i've never really looked into it.

sounds good, do they make parts like the outer barrel from steel? most m4 variants i've seen tend to have alu for the outer barrel. always figured their non-ak lines were rebrands, but doesn't really matter who the oem is if the final product is decent.

out of curiosity what are the externals like on that? i know e&l make a nice ak but never really hear much about their ar derivatives.

normally we don't need to ask this question but what weight of bb is it registering 330fps on?