Adolf Hamster

Was gonna say a grub screw. Secret mvp of the bodging world

both of the above are good suggestions, although i'd add that typically suppressor strikes are much more apparent than a mild curve and have an immediate component, which would have me thinking it's the hop as lopsided spin tends to manifest at distance as a gentle curve. one sneaky issue is that the deformation can change depending on the hop setting, so it might look perfect when you're looking at it on the bench with a little hop applied, but a little more/less hop applied when in the gun and the lop-sidedness manifests (very common in pistol hops when the tensioning arm bends), so be sure to check through the full range of hop travel. it's worth trying a little twiddling, even if it ends up looking off by eye if the end result is the shot going straight then that's ok.

i won't say the occasional indoor plink isn't on the cards, but i'll keep them in mind.

good to know, feels weird asking that question but given i'm out of the game now and a navy colt is one of the few pews i'd consider as a wall-hanger it was worth asking.

Oooooohhh Also, isnt it 1873 thats the cutoff for vrca stuff?

Finally an sks

might find it overhops/is biased to the lower end of hop unit travel. a flat hop nub is chunky to account for there being no mound in the bucking. but if it doesn't over-protrude enough to be an issue it should work, although ideally the maple leaf stuff is better utilised with a curved omega style nub to increase the contact patch.

Got active brake turned on? Because this sounds exactly like an active brake stopping the cycle too quickly problem

Ahh, yes that won't really be much benefit, getting the join to line up well enough to not mess up the accuracy isn't really practical. You'd be better off with no barrel extension and just an empty can

if you mean the suppressor causing turbulence, i can't say i ever noted an accuracy penalty from running one. that is, as long as you skip the fart flap, that'll make a barn door an optimistic target from inside the barn.....

It's an interesting dive, but there are some thoughts to consider. First is straightness, keeping a half metre tube straight to within the diameter tolerances we have is unlikely when things are being produced as cheaply as possible. Not to mention that the inner barrel might be perfectly straight but the outer has other ideas. I have pondered that a barrel curved intentionally downwards to force the bb to ride on its top edge (thus adding rather than detracting from the hop spin) could theoretically give better stability. I have a vague foggy recollection the americans had some sort of miracle barrel with a groove in it to acheive this but that's got as much weight behind it as the tk twist. Second is the concept of stabilisation ie the whole riding on a cushion rather than bouncing off the walls, which i've yet to see the kind of full nerd level fea type analysis to confirm if it's even a thing, let alone give an idea of where the sweet spot is in terms of bore/length and the effects of bb weight and energy level. I suspect if it is you'll find that for a given ammo/energy level, too short gives too little time for the transition from bouncing to drifting, and too long reduces the pressure to where it can't even initialise stability in the first place. And third is the everything else that goes on in our systems, which is why my typical summation is that barrel length is mostly irrelevant as simply getting the rest of the pew good enough to even notice the change is a challenge in an of itself. Which ultimately boils down to barrel length being a choice made on other factors, like the handling, aesthetics, and wether your chosen field/style of play grants a benefit or a penalty to running a longer gun (ie poking through hedges outdoors or handling in tight spaces indoors)

materials is a fair point, if they have to switch to a more expensive filler to jump from .32 to .36 although it's also the bridge from price per shot isn't the main consideration, to where you expect to be using less because you're getting the performance to actually hit what your aiming at. probably both.

Tbh idk wtbd

Looks like it has a bit of rubber in it, which could be swapped for something chunkier. Or the packing method will still work

looks very combat union inspired, although that's by no means an insult. i suspect the issue is the arm length, on the cu's you get an equivalent linear movement from the pitch of the spiral but the arm on that well looks about a third longer. ofc limited travel isn't entirely a bad thing, it's trading fineness of adjustability for range of motion. one option is to pop some packing under the nub, as 'borg says pencil eraser although i tend to prefer cutting strips off a normal bucking into rectangles as they give a consistent thickness. the nub is the part that's actually pushing the bucking through the barrel window and into the chamber. they're usually round cylinders of rubber nestled in a little cup in the hop arm but can be in all sorts of wacky shapes or even moulded into the arm itself. another old school mod is if the nub is particularly soft, replacing it with a snippet from a biro ink cartridge which is much stiffer and doesn't deform can also give motion at the expense of making the hop more sensitive (ie the gap between no hop, good hop and jamming is smaller)

Typically gbbr hop design allows longer hop patches to a certain level, but frankly given a simple macaron swap can get a .48 spun up it's kinda moot these days.

In general heavier flies better if there's enough gas to push it and enough hop to spin it. Unless you're wondering about joule creep?

If they're juggling several forums to list could be they dont check here too often. I've also had the occasional pm on here land with no notification, and only caught them when reading other pm's, so might be that.

Bonus for over-ear protection is it keeps them warm and protects them from ear hits.

Even if you wear it the right way round, rounds will absolutely always find that gap between the peak and your goggles. Same way as fingerless gloves guarantee you'll only ever take hits to the fingertips.

I always gravitated to a baseball cap. Few times i wore something more enclosing the extra protection was eroded by blocked breeze resulting in greater fogging. Ofc as always ymmv, someone less sweaty may find the downsides do not outweigh the benefits of increased cover, reduced visibility and greater cool factor.

Mine originates from when i was young, dumb, and edgy enough to think it was a funny name. However it's surprisingly rarely taken so i kept using it and at this point it's just the name i use online. Kind of ironic that i'm simaltaneously using a pseudonym to remain anonymous online whilst keeping that name constant which aids recognition.

used to be my main ammo supplier, so unless something's changed they're pretty legit.

And the oft forgotten part of the hop upgrading- run good quality heavier ammo (as heavy as you can stomach come ammo buying time) Bestest gnu on the planet will shoot like crap of your feeding it shitty lightweight ammo

Pretty much, gbbr's/hpa's can just keep sending gas until the bb leaves the barrel (when setup to do so/with an adequately long barrel), longer the bb takes to leave the more gas is sent the more energy is added. Aeg's have a fixed starting energy, so if the bb takes longer to leave the barrel it doesn't have any more energy to gain, as the spring just pushes the bb out as fast as it can. The spring bolties are a bit more confusing, but essentially by having a heavy piston slowing the rate of energy being made available to the bb, meaning that a lighter bb can escape the barrel before all the spring energy is released. Theoretically aeg's would joule creep too, but the amount is sufficiently little to be insignificant compared to other variations.