Adolf Hamster

to be fair to jg, the ones i've seen have still been running smooth despite the earwax grease, plastic pistons and suboptimal shimming. certainly nowhere near as egregious as some of the stuff you see folk voluntarily doing to their guns

i prefer "fully upgraded" on guns that still have some stock parts. i did come close to a legitimate "full upgrade" once, but the outer barrel was still original so didn't count

there's a lot to be said for learning a decent standard of teching. the skills involved can be learned, however the care and attention to detail you'll put into your own gun can't be bought. not to mention, it really opens up the secondhand market when you don't have to worry so much about the internal condition of a gun (which you know you can fix) and just worry about external condition (which is about the only thing you can know from pictures) depends on where your getting your information from as to their reputation. after all, people paying for a tech's services usually will be doing so because they don't have the confidence to do the work themselves, so how are they verifying the work is good? goes back to the above, when you do the work yourself at least you know what has/hasn't been done, good and bad.

the reason it tends to not be recommended is because in a world where the only entry requirement to be an "airsoft tech" is to convince people to pay you for your work there's often not much guarantee that sending a gun off to be worked on will necessarily result in that gun actually being any better or frankly even as good as it was to begin with. the workers who put these things together might only be doing it for 3 pennies and half a button per day but they do it day-in-day out and will be pretty proficient at at least doing it repeatably.

sounds about right. ofc how old one gets before that's an issue is a very individual thing. i'd wager there's a vanishingly small number of people who haven't voluntarily called time on pewing before getting to that stage.

to be fair, the boots on some bm's are tiny, can't even fit an mg42.....

looking at the perun manual the blinking red light is a high current draw, which sounds like the motor's being made to work too hard. wondering if either the shimming is tight, a box can seem nicely shimmed until you tighten up the case on final assembly and that little bit of compression makes the whole thing tight. other possibility is the pinion engagement is bad/motor has been set too tight, which would do the same thing. if it's neither of those then it could be something else like the rack on the piston is tight against the sector or is tight against its guide rails, which would be unusual but by no means unheard of.

i was about to comment about why use one of these in an auto only gun, then i remembered how much gunk accumulates from the brushes after heavy use.....

if anyone wonders why i'm not a fan of buffer tube stocks, this is one of the primary reasons..... don't get this problem with a fixed a1 stock, jus' sayin.....

surprised an airsoft company isn't simply branding it as a feature "reduces reload-shot time by 0.4s"

depends on how long you plan on storing them for, but generally if it's less than a month then there's no point.

why do you need to discharge them?

conversation was a while back, but iirc we ended up reckoning the cost was probably the major factor, ie it'd be cheaper to buy the lower density polymer and mix in additives (especially if that same density polymer is what's used on a lighter bb in the product range)

remember having this conversation with a colleague who knows a lot more about polymers than me, the bits i understood seemed to suggest there's a lot of density change possible with neat polymer by changing the chain lengths. although we ended up reckoning that mixing in particles was equally feasable especially for the higher densities.

i know the feeling man only just noticed in the op that you mention the ARL isn't so good on that gun, might be the noise you're hearing is the spring pushing back and the gun's running backwards when it'd otherwise be caught by the arl. although again that wouldn't really damage it, just doesn't sound nice.

pretty much this. how much a hop can lift can ofc be changed, depending on how far you want to go. usually the .28-.32g range tends to be the balance folk end up at for assault style guns outdoors as a balance between decent performance and being affordable for the kind of round count you typically would be using.

What i'm meaning is that overspin on its own isnt really an issue. If there's no pme in auto and it's not locking up/double firing in semi then tbh a bit of overspin is just free precocking (precocking being just intentional controlled overspin)

so it's over-spinning, but not enough to cause a double fire? tbh that's relatively normal, especially for motors with weaker magnets and/or no use of active braking. overspin on its own won't really damage a gun although it can be the cause of lock-ups in semi auto depending on where the system stops, what would be of more concern is PME in auto.

think the biggest obstacle in discussing game scenarios/idea's is how well a given scenario plays out is as much a factor of the site (layout, obstacles, environment, size etc), the marshalling staff (their ability to explain and enforce rules), and the playerbase (the number of players, the regular/visitor balance and the willingness of the regulars/visitors to get into the spirit of a new game mode) for example, a simple fall back game- there's a long but thin (inb4 ooh matron...) strip of forest as the game zone. attackers start at one end- get hit you fall back X paces then back in, get one man to the end building/flag/zone and it's game over defenders start wherever they want- get hit you fall back X paces and your back in but you can't advance. once you've been pushed back into the final zone then it's down to 1 life. not exactly the most complicated ruleset. and when played with people who either knew, or at least listened to, the rules it works pretty well. however the number of times you'd find folks ignoring the whole "don't advance as a defender" bit and it would ruin the game, as it'd just bog down into a pointless stalemate, with the usual suspects of cheating/overshooting etc soon bubbling up as peoples frustration mounts. likewise, that same (or similar enough) scenario on different sites, where the terrain made the game zone either less clear-cut or the area was wider making defending from flanking infinitely more difficult, it'd end up with one player flanking (possibly out of bounds if the game zone was ill-defined/that player didn't bother listening in the brief) and just walking up to the flag and game over. play it on a site with a tight choke point (ie not wide enough to push against one side of the line to force a breakthrough) and we're back to the aforementioned pointless stalemate. or as an even better example- every attempt at introducing an airsoft version of trouble in terrorist town immediately results in a free for all death match as nobody bothers understanding the rules or implementing tactics beyond "we don't know who the enemy team is- just shoot everyone"

fair enough, as long as it's not mouse-fart levels of silence required then aeg can do the job, although admittedly it makes getting setup a bit trickier. tbh, i'd start with working on the usual accuracy areas- good ammo, good hop/barrel, get the air seal as good as possible, then worry about getting the energy dialed in once you're sure that any stronger spring isn't wasted sending air anywhere but behind the bb. in terms of gear noise, a good shim job will definitely go a long way to do that. the process isn't so much difficult as it is laborious once you get the hang of the process, plenty of guides out there on yt and such. for trigger response, well assuming we're talking locked to, or predominantly used in (i'm assuming you're eu based by the sounds of it) semi auto then the best starting point is a mosfet with precoking, followed up by a motor with some decent pickup speed. that'll do a lot for the "feel" in semi auto. how you go about that kinda depends on your budget and how much you want to mess around with, for example, rewiring.

how quiet do you want? there's only so much quiet you can get out of an aeg, especially an AR variant with a tight fitting body (as opposed to a chunky bullpup body you can fill with foam) if HPA is a viable option for you (ie you can get refills) then that may be an avenue worth contemplating, as it'll deal with your quietness and snappy response requirements in one (comparatively speaking) easy step.

As above, the a&k pkm box is the pretty much the same their m60 and aside from the casing/bearings/wiring connector it uses standard internals.

What do you mean? From my perspective it just got interesting?

yeah, can be fun to delve into this sort of thing, tbh i'm surprised it's that small myself figured it'd be a more major component.

yes the angular velocity is a bit of an unknown. in the spreadsheet i made a while back i ended up having to go with a macro and goal seek to just brute force it, hence the whole "20cm of rise" caveat as there needed to be a fixed goal to look for. although tbh a few corners were cut, eg the magnus force was simplified to the force for a cylinder of equivalent cross section rather than doing it properly and splitting it up into increments, or the very oversimplified drag model that treated air as an incompressible fluid. but then i was doing it because i was bored/curious so an approximation was good enough for the aforementioned 1j of muzzle energy and 20cm of rise criteria it would come out as: 63.67 rad/s for 0.2g 79.54 rad/s for 0.25g 97.03 rad/s for 0.3g 133.46 rad/s for 0.4g 173.293 rad/s for 0.5g it's part of the reason why as mentioned, heavier=better doesn't always hold true practically, when the losses in the hop to acheive sufficient spin drop the energy enough to the point where a lighter bb from the same gun would go further. fun anecdote- it's possible to have 2 "sweet spots" for hop, first when you've just enough pressure to get the spin, then turning the hop on further results in the expected overhop, but go too far and the energy will drop to the point where it'll meet a second spot, with a much higher spin but lower energy. although more usually by the time you get to that point the gun just jams.