Adolf Hamster

As above- cyma are pretty much the baseline of solid all-rounder, e&l are more expensive but have prettier externals which will rust. Either are good choices, depending on your budget and wether you like a heavy gun or a light gun. The jg's arent bad shooters with a bit of tinkering, although the term "blowback" is a bit of a stretch, whilst the system is somewhat fragile it's also relatively easily deactivated and it'll run as a regular aeg. Ran one for years as my backup/loaner gun and it was genuinely a fun little shooter that i'd often run just for the hell of it.

Never actually broke a loading nozzle on the makarov, admittedly i bulged one but that was definately qc failure and nothing to do with it being fed .48's......

precocking is like a timer that runs after the col has tripped and keeps the motor running a few milliseconds before (usually) applying active brake. usually lockups with active brake are the product of a system that doesn't need it stopping too quickly when the brake is applied (ie col trips and it stops immediately), without active brake the motor naturally rolls on for a little bit of precocking (ie how guns without mosfets work) until natural friction/energy compressing the spring is enough to halt it. i suppose if the precocking is set too high it might be rolling right around and approaching that lockup point from the other side (although would probably be intermittent double firing too)

I dunno, the we makarov is pretty decent once you get the hop sorted, although granted not a strong cold weather performer.

generally i consider there to be 4 categories of mosfets: basic mosfers (nanoasr, the basic perun mosfet etc) that won't do anything here beyond save the trigger contacts from burnout mosfets with fixed active brake (eg nanoaab, nanohard, merf, etc) which have active braking but no precocking mosfets with precocking (warfet, ab++) optical mosfets. generally speaking category 1 is my default for guns that i'm not pushing performance out of and just want the contact protection. category 2 is a tricky one, i'd generally avoid them as active brake may well help in the situation of double firing, but if you decided to run the gun on 7.4 again you might find there's the opposite problem of too much ab, with the system stopping too quickly and getting lockups on semi. category 3 will solve both the semi firing and lockup issues as well as the added benefit that the precocking will do a lot for helping perceived "response" in semi, you might find that depending on your goals running these with 7.4 is good enough without the rof climbing too high. and category 4 is basically for the perfectionists for whom good enough is never good enough. so basically the ab++ would be a solid choice here, i'm not a fan of using the trigger for mosfet programming but for the most part these things you do them right once and forget about it.

14mmccw is usually used as an external thread, so you'd need the barrel to extend beyond the end of the slide: which the tokarev simply isn't setup to do. if you want a russian pistol with a suppressor then look at the WE makarov- it'll come with a threaded barrel and matching suppressor.

It is a thing, personally i've generally stuck with matched ends (ie upper and lower side if you're looking during assembly). Bushings on the sector make sense, as it takes the most direct load in terms of the spring and impact loadings and spins at the slowest speeds. Likewise bearings on the bevel make sense in terms of it having the lowest loadings but highest speeds. However for the most part i've not really been too fussed about bearings/bushings, but then i'm building my guns to a 1j limit so i'm not as concerned about the mechanical loading on the box.

as a general rule, gbb's will just vent if they're unable to cycle far enough back to trip the cutoff, so sadly i don't think this is going to work in a slide-locked mode as the first shot it'll just empty the mag of gas (which may or may not have a significant impact on the fps)

Hmm, may be lost connection to/between one of the cells. Tbh, i'm not one for some of the "fixes" folk do for batteries, i just get new ones if there's an issue. Although admittedly i've also been mostly lucky with them.

do you have a voltage checker see what the cell voltages are? not sure which charger you're using, but i've seen it happen before where a charger has failed to charge one of the cells and killed the battery. i use an etronix battery doctor (other brands are available) and it's a helpful reassurance even for just checking "did i remember to charge this?" before game day.

i generally hold that nominal bore size is less important than overall quality in terms of straightness, consistency of diameter and finish. and overall it's easily overcome by even mild deficiencies elsewhere in terms of air seal, hop and ammo quality.

Is that a wooden handguard thats been painted red then painted black?

i've heard folks saying good things about filmsim as something that bridges the gap between the full-on milsim style and the chaos that is a regular walk-on. never been to such an event so i can't really comment one way or the other, but i'll admit it'd be nice to have a themed event where you can indulge in a little more immersion than a normal day, but maybe not to the point of needing a 20 page document published so you know the rules (although maybe a 1 page document, printed on a0 size and nailed to a board at the site entrance would be good, even for standard games) +1, i'm all for a bit of healthy skepticism (having joined this place being the optimist who thought he could revolutionize the sport and knowing exactly where that went.....), but this does seem to have escalated a bit beyond that.

no offence (the standard opener to a comment that will then be offensive), but you do know that airsoft is a sport renowned for companies not giving a stuff about patents? it started with everyone ripping off marui and it keeps happening, frankly i'd be amazed if any remotely successful product managed to not get ripped off no matter how many patents they had. this is the heart of the problem. outside of specific themed events, you're dealing with the issue that any game rule has to be something that works for everyone, from dave the discount SEAL team six sergeant 2nd class to johnny's birthday party rental group. even regulars who are game to try something new with some different scenarios/rulesets will happily listen to the breif, go out aiming to stick to the intended rules/theme the best they can and proceed to forget them about 30 minutes into the game leading to things like "do i stand here and wait for the medic or go to respawn?" or "is that area inbounds or not?" or "which zone are we falling back to?", i know because i'm afraid to admit that i'm very much that player- keen to have a crack at the more interesting ideas but scatterbrained. meanwhile you'll get the "stuff it, imma shoot anyone that isn't me/my mates" approach, which is why literally every attempt at airsoft ttt has turned into a free for all death match once everyone that doesn't take that approach (ie not shooting everyone they see on sight regardless of what role they were given) has been eliminated in the first 10 seconds.

i've played a couple of scenarios like this. the biggest obstacle is having a respawn system that's balanced enough that the defending team isn't being completely swamped, but also not just a 1-life rule that turns it into "kill the other guys first then get the objective" quoted for truth, for the most part on your average skirmish day "bad dudes over there, respawns thataway, go shoot" is about as complex a ruleset as can be managed. an awful lot of the game types i've played that have tried to make it more complex either descend into a saltfest (usually when limited boundaries or more complex respawn rules (more complex than go to the flag that is) are involved) or revert to tdm. ahh so it's a dedicated product. i mean i can see the allure, but sadly i think it's one of those ideas everyone will agree is a neat idea and then proceed to not buy for themselves, usually for fear of it being useless if it doesn't catch on.

i mean i can see how having the vip/target/macguffin doing a sort of patrol route around the site, and letting the attacking team pick when/where and how they want to go about it rather than being forced into a particular ambush location the defenders could predict (defeating the whole point of an ambush scenario). the tricky thing is gonna be how are you doing this tracking? whilst a phone app would work in theory, lot of folk don't take their phones on-site in case they get smashed (and ofc the usual data/signal availability) and presumably handing out site devices would be too expensive. unless you're doing it with a few select folks who are in charge of knowing the packages location.

i suspect the way this situation will end is the retailer will offer to fix the gnu (which iirc you have to give them one chance outside of 6 months), then proceed to put the minimal possible cost/effort into doing it, which frankly is probably going to end up the same anyway. if it were me i'd just replace the piston and call it at that. although in fairness, warranties mean very little to me because they're always longer than the time it takes for me to get bored and start tinkering.....

take a look here: should give you an idea of how these things are generally constructed and how the nozzle works: to answer your questions directly: yes its normal for the majority of airsoft nozzles to be able to rotate, how easily depends on the type of nozzle (eg if it has a sealing o-ring it'll be stiffer) and how it fits to the tappet plate (some are tight, some are loose). being a little tight at one point sounds like there's a little nub of material (eg a casting line) that's catching as you spin it, or maybe some grit that's catching. some models do have nozzles that don't rotate, don't worry, it'd be really obvious if it was one of those types as you wouldn't be able to turn it without very blatantly breaking something. the nozzle should ordinarily be easy to push back- you'll feel the spring force on the tappet plate, although if the gearbox happens to stop with the nozzle already retracted then it obviously won't want to retract any more. if you're curious try cycling the gearbox on auto rather than semi- you'll see the nozzle will stop in random positions depending on where in the cycle it happens to fall, rather than the more consistent point you'd see when firing in semi.

i'm afraid i don't really know. an awful lot of intentional "weathered" looks tend to end up not looking right to me, seems to be a hard art to master. tbh, just using the thing for a while is how i'd go about it.

i've always gone with generic kit is fine, and just don't go as far to start putting patches/insignia on that'll point to a very specific unit. but then i don't even bother with the comedy/non serious patches and am entirely mystified by how involved some folk are with them, although the world is full of hobbies that mystify me like trainspotting or stamp collecting....

aye bit of natural weathering will work wonders. what little painting i've done has ended up looking a lot better after it's been worn in a while.

Yeah the greens/browns defo looking better in the light. Still think a general darkening might help it out. But the patterning for sure looks good, and i'm liking the preservation of details like the grip/trigger/upper/screw heads rather than the "fuck it, spray the whole thing" approach you so often see.

Didnt realise unicorns came in different colours. I'll have one in diamond with rainbow racing stripes please.

yeah that's kinda how i was thinking it was working. doesn't look like the worst component in the world to replicate at least. one of the blessings of the flat 1j limit is stuff like this tends not to be as much of an issue.

Even though you've explained it i'm still struggling to visualise it Definately a weird design, i figured it was a generic vsr style sear in them (like i said, never stripped one down that far as i was only going for the hop rubber)