Adolf Hamster

Is that a wooden handguard thats been painted red then painted black?

i've heard folks saying good things about filmsim as something that bridges the gap between the full-on milsim style and the chaos that is a regular walk-on. never been to such an event so i can't really comment one way or the other, but i'll admit it'd be nice to have a themed event where you can indulge in a little more immersion than a normal day, but maybe not to the point of needing a 20 page document published so you know the rules (although maybe a 1 page document, printed on a0 size and nailed to a board at the site entrance would be good, even for standard games) +1, i'm all for a bit of healthy skepticism (having joined this place being the optimist who thought he could revolutionize the sport and knowing exactly where that went.....), but this does seem to have escalated a bit beyond that.

no offence (the standard opener to a comment that will then be offensive), but you do know that airsoft is a sport renowned for companies not giving a stuff about patents? it started with everyone ripping off marui and it keeps happening, frankly i'd be amazed if any remotely successful product managed to not get ripped off no matter how many patents they had. this is the heart of the problem. outside of specific themed events, you're dealing with the issue that any game rule has to be something that works for everyone, from dave the discount SEAL team six sergeant 2nd class to johnny's birthday party rental group. even regulars who are game to try something new with some different scenarios/rulesets will happily listen to the breif, go out aiming to stick to the intended rules/theme the best they can and proceed to forget them about 30 minutes into the game leading to things like "do i stand here and wait for the medic or go to respawn?" or "is that area inbounds or not?" or "which zone are we falling back to?", i know because i'm afraid to admit that i'm very much that player- keen to have a crack at the more interesting ideas but scatterbrained. meanwhile you'll get the "stuff it, imma shoot anyone that isn't me/my mates" approach, which is why literally every attempt at airsoft ttt has turned into a free for all death match once everyone that doesn't take that approach (ie not shooting everyone they see on sight regardless of what role they were given) has been eliminated in the first 10 seconds.

i've played a couple of scenarios like this. the biggest obstacle is having a respawn system that's balanced enough that the defending team isn't being completely swamped, but also not just a 1-life rule that turns it into "kill the other guys first then get the objective" quoted for truth, for the most part on your average skirmish day "bad dudes over there, respawns thataway, go shoot" is about as complex a ruleset as can be managed. an awful lot of the game types i've played that have tried to make it more complex either descend into a saltfest (usually when limited boundaries or more complex respawn rules (more complex than go to the flag that is) are involved) or revert to tdm. ahh so it's a dedicated product. i mean i can see the allure, but sadly i think it's one of those ideas everyone will agree is a neat idea and then proceed to not buy for themselves, usually for fear of it being useless if it doesn't catch on.

i mean i can see how having the vip/target/macguffin doing a sort of patrol route around the site, and letting the attacking team pick when/where and how they want to go about it rather than being forced into a particular ambush location the defenders could predict (defeating the whole point of an ambush scenario). the tricky thing is gonna be how are you doing this tracking? whilst a phone app would work in theory, lot of folk don't take their phones on-site in case they get smashed (and ofc the usual data/signal availability) and presumably handing out site devices would be too expensive. unless you're doing it with a few select folks who are in charge of knowing the packages location.

i suspect the way this situation will end is the retailer will offer to fix the gnu (which iirc you have to give them one chance outside of 6 months), then proceed to put the minimal possible cost/effort into doing it, which frankly is probably going to end up the same anyway. if it were me i'd just replace the piston and call it at that. although in fairness, warranties mean very little to me because they're always longer than the time it takes for me to get bored and start tinkering.....

take a look here: should give you an idea of how these things are generally constructed and how the nozzle works: to answer your questions directly: yes its normal for the majority of airsoft nozzles to be able to rotate, how easily depends on the type of nozzle (eg if it has a sealing o-ring it'll be stiffer) and how it fits to the tappet plate (some are tight, some are loose). being a little tight at one point sounds like there's a little nub of material (eg a casting line) that's catching as you spin it, or maybe some grit that's catching. some models do have nozzles that don't rotate, don't worry, it'd be really obvious if it was one of those types as you wouldn't be able to turn it without very blatantly breaking something. the nozzle should ordinarily be easy to push back- you'll feel the spring force on the tappet plate, although if the gearbox happens to stop with the nozzle already retracted then it obviously won't want to retract any more. if you're curious try cycling the gearbox on auto rather than semi- you'll see the nozzle will stop in random positions depending on where in the cycle it happens to fall, rather than the more consistent point you'd see when firing in semi.

i'm afraid i don't really know. an awful lot of intentional "weathered" looks tend to end up not looking right to me, seems to be a hard art to master. tbh, just using the thing for a while is how i'd go about it.

i've always gone with generic kit is fine, and just don't go as far to start putting patches/insignia on that'll point to a very specific unit. but then i don't even bother with the comedy/non serious patches and am entirely mystified by how involved some folk are with them, although the world is full of hobbies that mystify me like trainspotting or stamp collecting....

aye bit of natural weathering will work wonders. what little painting i've done has ended up looking a lot better after it's been worn in a while.

Yeah the greens/browns defo looking better in the light. Still think a general darkening might help it out. But the patterning for sure looks good, and i'm liking the preservation of details like the grip/trigger/upper/screw heads rather than the "fuck it, spray the whole thing" approach you so often see.

Didnt realise unicorns came in different colours. I'll have one in diamond with rainbow racing stripes please.

yeah that's kinda how i was thinking it was working. doesn't look like the worst component in the world to replicate at least. one of the blessings of the flat 1j limit is stuff like this tends not to be as much of an issue.

Even though you've explained it i'm still struggling to visualise it Definately a weird design, i figured it was a generic vsr style sear in them (like i said, never stripped one down that far as i was only going for the hop rubber)

hmm, not really sure that works, kinda mixing the styles. i'm not all that into the painting side of things, but maybe if there's an overcoat that'd darken everything down?

i hope that's the lighting and not spray paint on the carpet concept wise it's looking good, thinking maybe the tan base and the red flecks are a tad bright? could expand the shapes fill out the pattern a bit more to sort the tan, or it'll maybe come in with a bit of wearing in.

That part does look familiar, think it's the retainer for the spring guide, not had one of them mosins that far apart to be sure though. Wonder if perhaps it's one of those "its fine stock but drop a 2.3j spring in there and it'll go" kinda jobs?

guess they don't need to warranty a gun if it got burned by a battery that couldn't take it. not gonna lie, i'd rather a shredded piston than a battery fire any day of the week. which probably explains why my shredded piston collection is a thing but my burned battery collection isn't.....

apparently they're no longer being made and are hard to find edit: i see i've been beaten to the punch on that one......

not gonna lie, of all the guns i'd have thought they'd tweak to work as a g11 the aap-01 isn't one of them

didn't know they did that. that's spectacularly bad, the absolute last component that should be responsible for capping amp draw is the battery being made to supply more than it's rated to......

i did meet a 1903 in the local brick and mortar a while back (read: several years) and it felt pretty nice (dunno what brand it was mind). good thing with that option is you'll more easily be able to get an appropriate sidearm compared to trying to find a webley/nagant. couldn't say what brand it was but seemed solid enough. the only thing with the gas variants is they seem to run short bolt throws, which i'm personally not too much of a fan of.

whilst the never fired line is bs, i mean if you've never fired it how would you know if it worked or not? however generally airsoft warranties do tend to have the issue that the way we use our pews means sellers are very conscious about how feasible it is for a malfunction to be user error. it's why you have the whole "11.1v ready" malarkey, it's not that guns without that rating can't run perfectly well on 11.1v, it's just a way of getting out of a potential claim. i swear this is the only reason mini tamiya is still a thing......

There's the pps mosin, i've ran the spring version and its not half bad. Mag will strip the skin from yer thumb when reloading and the front sight is maybe a tad weak but apart from that its ok

i had a similar issue with a magpul stock. the standard distance for the pin wasn't enough to clear the back of the stock tube rail, so had to use a pait of pliers/additional leverage (read: "persuasion") to get enough to go on. i ended up shaving down a nub on the back of the lever, giving it enough clearance to slide all the way off. meant it would come off if you weren't careful adjusting it, but not being a big fan of adjustable stocks i had a mark set for the position and only needed to remove it for battery installation.