Adolf Hamster

Not necessarily, for folk who really arent tech savvy, and how often do you squeeze the trigger with safe on?

in defense of the seller, many folks in this hobby aren't that into the techy side of things and might genuinely not notice/think a big deal about little external issues let alone the myriad gremlins that could be going on inside.

sounds about right. this is precisely why secondhand guns lose so much of their value because there's no comeback if somethings up with it.

i was thinking you were planning on having the "barrel" located approximately where the magazine tube would be on the mock version, so the whole mechanism would be lower down compared to where you have it drawn there. the firing button might be tricky, as the way i had it in the model it'd be trying to tilt the block up as well as push forward, although maybe some sort of catch linked to the extractor or mounted externally (basically a side button) might be needed. unless, perhaps go even simpler: basically just a spring loaded catch- push the shell in it'll pop down and stop the shell falling out, to fire just push the button on the shell with your thumb, to remove just push the catch up and tilt the gun up to drop free. only real downside is it won't look that pretty when loaded, but then that'll presumably only be in-game when nobody's really going to be seeing it (what with the whole being on the wrong end )

yeah i was thinking initially that if you're loading via the existing port, might be easier to have a martini style system. very quick and dirty concept of what i'm meaning: idea is the block is sprung and replaces the faux loading door, you stuff a shell in like you would if you were loading it, you have the simple push button activator, and to remove the shell you just push the block up (there could be an extra bit sticking out so your thumb doesn't block the shell) with a very basic spring loaded ejector.

that's more room than i thought there was. would it be feasable to have a super shorty/masterkey setup stuffed inside that casing?

sometimes ak top covers do need a little smack to get them to seat, it's a good thing as it means the top cover is held tight and won't rattle. worth checking that the latch is still sliding free, can be pretty common for it to get misaligned with its rails in the gearbox casing and not be springing back properly.

isn't that a coronal mass ejection?

i was thinking solar wind

so your intention is to put that in a position where it fires through the magazine tube on the underbarrel? wondering if it might be easier to set it up like a martini-style block so you load the launcher same as if you were fitting the shell to the magazine?

you might not want your first and only post on an internet forum full of strangers to have your irl name and address prominently featured in a picture. edit: and your phone number in the following picture.....

have you tried finding trigger contacts for a g&g f2000

if it helps i was getting ~18rps on 12:1 with a warhead standard on 7.4v. heavily short stroked admittedly.

getting the scope lower would definitely help, although needless to say a lot of it is just the limitation of the platform. think for me it's a case of usually monopod on the mag is "good enough" for the standards of airsoft levels of range/accuracy, although granted i would seldom go prone for any real length of time so normally the bipod is just dead weight. ofc for aesthetic purposes it's a moot point as to whether or not it's actually useful, and because it looks cool is as valid a reason as any other (after all, if we cared only about performance why an m14 at all?)

must admit, i'm finding that refreshingly straightforward, whilst i'm not generally a fan of bipods in airsoft due to limited utility there are some guns that suit them, and that's definitely one. only thing i'd really comment on is that scope offset looks like it'd make for more of a beard weld than a chin weld, perhaps an old-school padded stock sleeve to rise it up whilst fitting the look?

the intention is to give you the same opportunities for inspection before purchase you'd have in a store. for example a while back i bought a microphone for my pc, when it showed up it was twice the size i thought it was going to be, pictures can be deceiving. in that case i was ok with it, but had i planned on the item being a given size i could have returned it (unused) based on that. same with clothes/shoes- in a shop you could try on for size but online you have to trust their measurement scheme and it's well known that manufacturer sizes aren't consistent. the problem in this case is that the speed of the motor is something you could have known before purchase, as they publish those figures for each model- eg the "high speed" doing 25000rpm on 7.4v (~23rps on 18:1) and 36000rpm on 11.1v (~33rps on 18:1). when i ordered i used those numbers and the intended gear ratio/battery of my build to work out that the standard would be more appropriate for my use case.

all you had to do was lower your expectations for the definition of the term "working" it's a curse.....

everyone wants to win that lottery of a display case gun in good working order, or the "returned broken" gun with nothing more than a blown fuse. the reality ofc is half of a decade old gun that was modded for a failed project by the shop tech, then pillaged for all the awkward parts you can't get spares for and chucked in the boneyard section when the shopkeep needs to clear some space.

@iNKu i would be very very careful about that. if the motor was drawing too much current on the original battery (enough to trip the mosfet), then swapping to a battery with a lower current rating is a very bad idea. the last thing you want is for the gun to be trying to draw more amps than the battery can handle. what capacities (mah rating) and voltage ratings are these 2 batteries you're using (original 45C one and current 20C one)? did the shop do anything else to the gun besides "try a smaller battery"?

ITT: people who'd have an aneurism if they saw me soldering

no but i can shoot imram zakhaev before the wind dies down in cod4, basically the same thing. although evidently i'm not that good because i keep hitting his arm even though i'd swear the bullet hit his head

tricky one, as if it's going via the classifieds here then you'd have to assume the application of secondhand private sale rules, ie caveat emptor. that said, i'd also be assuming secondhand level pricing to reflect that, and if it's higher then i wouldn't be buying.

why S-hop when it's much easier and as (arguably more) effective to drop in something like an ml macaron+omega nub to lift the heavies? if you're not changing the ratio for a specific purpose (eg going for high speed) then why change a set of gears if there's nothing wrong with them?

indeed. there are lots of other factors (eg battery choice and state of the box as it presently sits) that could factor in, eg switching to lipo from nimh. however assuming the box is in good running order and being fed by a decent battery then the first port of call i'd be looking at would be to look at a mosfet with precocking. after that you can look at changing motor/gears depending on where your personal cutoff for "good enough" response is.

it's also worth questioning how come we don't include the gravitational pull of the moon, sun, other planets, etc, or how earths own gravitational acceleration isn't strictly constant into earthbound ballistic calculations.