Adolf Hamster

must admit, i'm finding that refreshingly straightforward, whilst i'm not generally a fan of bipods in airsoft due to limited utility there are some guns that suit them, and that's definitely one. only thing i'd really comment on is that scope offset looks like it'd make for more of a beard weld than a chin weld, perhaps an old-school padded stock sleeve to rise it up whilst fitting the look?

the intention is to give you the same opportunities for inspection before purchase you'd have in a store. for example a while back i bought a microphone for my pc, when it showed up it was twice the size i thought it was going to be, pictures can be deceiving. in that case i was ok with it, but had i planned on the item being a given size i could have returned it (unused) based on that. same with clothes/shoes- in a shop you could try on for size but online you have to trust their measurement scheme and it's well known that manufacturer sizes aren't consistent. the problem in this case is that the speed of the motor is something you could have known before purchase, as they publish those figures for each model- eg the "high speed" doing 25000rpm on 7.4v (~23rps on 18:1) and 36000rpm on 11.1v (~33rps on 18:1). when i ordered i used those numbers and the intended gear ratio/battery of my build to work out that the standard would be more appropriate for my use case.

all you had to do was lower your expectations for the definition of the term "working" it's a curse.....

everyone wants to win that lottery of a display case gun in good working order, or the "returned broken" gun with nothing more than a blown fuse. the reality ofc is half of a decade old gun that was modded for a failed project by the shop tech, then pillaged for all the awkward parts you can't get spares for and chucked in the boneyard section when the shopkeep needs to clear some space.

@iNKu i would be very very careful about that. if the motor was drawing too much current on the original battery (enough to trip the mosfet), then swapping to a battery with a lower current rating is a very bad idea. the last thing you want is for the gun to be trying to draw more amps than the battery can handle. what capacities (mah rating) and voltage ratings are these 2 batteries you're using (original 45C one and current 20C one)? did the shop do anything else to the gun besides "try a smaller battery"?

ITT: people who'd have an aneurism if they saw me soldering

no but i can shoot imram zakhaev before the wind dies down in cod4, basically the same thing. although evidently i'm not that good because i keep hitting his arm even though i'd swear the bullet hit his head

tricky one, as if it's going via the classifieds here then you'd have to assume the application of secondhand private sale rules, ie caveat emptor. that said, i'd also be assuming secondhand level pricing to reflect that, and if it's higher then i wouldn't be buying.

why S-hop when it's much easier and as (arguably more) effective to drop in something like an ml macaron+omega nub to lift the heavies? if you're not changing the ratio for a specific purpose (eg going for high speed) then why change a set of gears if there's nothing wrong with them?

indeed. there are lots of other factors (eg battery choice and state of the box as it presently sits) that could factor in, eg switching to lipo from nimh. however assuming the box is in good running order and being fed by a decent battery then the first port of call i'd be looking at would be to look at a mosfet with precocking. after that you can look at changing motor/gears depending on where your personal cutoff for "good enough" response is.

it's also worth questioning how come we don't include the gravitational pull of the moon, sun, other planets, etc, or how earths own gravitational acceleration isn't strictly constant into earthbound ballistic calculations.

@iNKuit kinda pops in when i load the page then turns into a normal link, but clicking on it gives me a "can't find the file" page. tried turning off me adblockers but that hasn't fixed it

Think the thing that'd put me off a bullpup for cqb would be the mushyness of the triggers. I'll be honest the mp5 would be where i'd be putting my attention towards, or perhaps a vityaz. But as 'borg already pointed out theyre all pretty much gonna be of equivalent utility for cqb purposes so just going for whatever you personally think looks/feels nice to use.

and you think that will change? good luck with that......

inb4 posting tomorrow in the "what have you just bought" thread

for the case of the "standard" 2-tone is it that bad a loss? it is an interesting question, for example the aps uar being not a replica by dint of there being no gun (or gun-shaped prop) that it resembles. wasn't it you that used the "man on the clapham omnibus" example to point out it just needs to be realistic enough to fool joe public? kind of ironic that a cap&ball colt would be just as recognizable to joe public and yet is exempt being pre 1870.

yeah but we've all had to fight that demon. just not all of us win yeah but we've all had to fight that demon. just not all of us win

note the lesson kids- us in the airsoft community get that 2-toning is a necessary evil to allow us to keep pewing, so when you turn up nobody is going to judge you if your g&g raider is bright blue, trust us it's not as bad as what some folks voluntarily do to their guns. unless you 2-tone something nice, then we're gonna judge you to be the heretic that you are.

the "gas" in a gbb magazine is a mix of liquid and gas. when you fire the pressure drops, liquid portion starts boiling and the pressure raises back up, this is also why they tend to not like colder temperatures as the equilibrium pressure, and the rate of boiling will decrease. same reason why they don't like being fired quickly (where you're venting gas pressure faster than the boiling can top up) it's not perfect, but it approximately keeps the pressure the same (close enough for our purposes) as long as there's liquid left in the magazine. if your familiar with cheap gas lighters it's exactly the same principle (and you can even see the liquid portion decrease over time in the transparent ones). for hpa, this isn't the case, it's 100% gas, so to acheive a usable working volume it has to be compressed to much higher pressures then regulated down to the pressure you want to use. it's not really practical to build all this into a small enough package to fit inside a magazine hence using an external tank+regulator. there are systems out there, notably the daytonagun kits, that operate like a gbb only with the air feed going through the gun rather than the magazine so you run it with a standard hpa setup. afaik the WE p90 can also be made to work like that due to the way they worked around the top mounted magazine.

@iNKu video doesn't seem to be working?

ftfy

@iNKu it could be if it's catching on the pickup, depends on what kind of attention was put towards the aoe, hard to say without seeing it. if it isn't cycling could be the sector is hitting at the wrong point and jamming, it's also possible the sector body is rubbing on the rearmost tooth, which would give a similar effect to tight shimming (and also make it a pain to put the box together) it could also be that the aoe is ok, but the piston is too tight on the gearbox rails and/or has been misaligned on assembly (ie the piston is getting squeezed by the gearbox). generally when i'm assembling the box, having gone through the shimming i'll tighten up the casing with just the gears in, check they're spinning (holding it at different angles lets you know if the gearx have enough play to bind), then repeat with the piston (no spring) to check how easily the sector can pull it back (easier on v3 boxes to turn the sector) and also how freely the piston slides in general.

in that case couldn't turn down the face due to the bearings, however yes that would work on normal gears if you had access to a proper lathe.

the only time i can recall having a similar issue was a set of shs advanced (the ones with the bearings in them), i think that particular set had been assembled incorrectly with the bearing pressed into the wrong side meaning you had to raise the bevel/sector much higher than normal which led to a tight meshing. needless to say the solution to this problem is to use a different set of gears.....

yeah this place can be funny for notifications, maybe your settings, @iNKu overheating in the motor is also a symptom, it's all pointing to a tight shim job. have the gears been changed? if not then i'm curious what on earth this "forced to make a decision" business is about, i'd be contemplating getting a second opinion on that one, that is if you don't feel confident to pop it open and have a crack yourself.