Adolf Hamster

no need to make it any longer/shorter, better to stick to the original length. i'm curious to see what a ZCI 6.02 will do to the grouping as they're damn good barrels (especially given the price) ahh, see i'm including the full range (the 280.8 and 276.8) and i have unrealistic standards

i get the feeling, especially after you've got used to it almost puts you off getting new pews when you realise how much work you're gonna end up putting in before it's up to par with the rest of the collection. if you're going to be cracking out the soldering iron anyway it's a perfect time to switch to a mosfet, if you dont want to splash out for a warfet just yet then the nanoasr uses the same contact setup so you can just swap it over later on.

ahh, sneaky editing still some room for improvement with the air seal then, but as with all these things it depends on where your personal standard of "good enough" lies. shame about the wind, as curious to see what the spread is as-is with what i'm guessing is still the stock barrel?

worth checking the fps consistency on the specna's as well. one of the quality elements of good ammo is weight consistency (and by extension velocity consistency) for a given energy. generally stock hops on a lot of guns aren't strictly bad, issue is they're just not intended for the combination of heavier ammo/colder climates. hard to tell from just the grouping if it's wind or natural dispersion in the horizontal, but the vertical looks decent.

generally you do need to be very precise with nozzle lengths. too short (and 0.3mm can definately be enough) and it'll not sit tight to the feed lips on the hop bucking and cause an air leak (reduced fps and awful fps consistency) too long and as long as it clears the feed tube then it'll be ok, but if it doesn't clear the feed tube then needless to say feeding issues ensue.

yeah, i'm not personally much of a fan of that type (preferr the standard type with wide ports) although for an aeg i don't mind the slap when firing. aye, one of the drawbacks of going with the less common pews. although ak2m4 normally has a decent selection.

worth mentioning seeing as you're going for replacing the air seal components to think about the nozzle too, especially if the stock one doesn't have a sealing o ring. otherwise that's pretty close to what i'd be thinking of dropping in there, i always struggle to recommend specific parts because there's always that chance X part might be off and won't work (which i've had plenty of times, it's how you accumulate a parts box) those silent type piston heads can push the aoe back, which depending on the gun might mess things up although it looks in this case (using very rough judgement based off one picture) it looks like there's room for it to shift back anyway.

aye thats when i mean, right after it was added and you'd get a notification every other day about it.

yeah but clicking is so much effort, even easier to just not read whatever it is you don't like reading.

kinda depends on your goals as to what parts you might want to change out. certainly for outdoor use i'd be thinking about air seal related components, particularly the nozzle, cylinder head & piston head. piston teeth is one that's debatable, there are good arguments for having plastic teeth as a failure point and steel racks aren't immune from failure (having the racks ripped out of them assuming the gears don't eat themselves first). that port cut is confusing me, looks kinda far for the barrel length of an f2000. where's @Sitting Duck when you need him he's better at this than me

i wouldn't worry too much, outside of a bit of fun in the early days seeing who spammed the most, i (and i presume others) haven't really bothered with them.

oh dear..... to start off with the main spring- you can shove a screwdriver (or similarly sized pokey thing) through the back of the spring guide and use that to help hold it in position. some v3 casings might not have a hole in the back of them to accomodate (usually for v2 boxes they do as that's a stock attachment point) but you can file a hole in the casing. usually, if you seat the spring guide nicely then hold pressure on the cylinder it shouldn't jump out too far- you can see the way he has his fingers through the window on the upper half when placing it in position. the sector moving side to side defo sounds like you've lost a few shims. i'd say get a pack of @ak2m4's 0.1mm shims as they always come in handy: https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/bushings-shims/xt-shims-01mm-100-pack you can also get clips that help hold things into place, never used them myself but mostly because i've never got around to getting any: https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/gearbox-helping-hands-kit

it always takes longer until you build up the experience of how things go apart/come together, how much pressure to place/not place, what angle to use etc etc, sadly so much of it can't easily be explained through writing and just needs many attempts to establish the "feel" required. even when you've got a good handle on things it can still take hours to do a build properly (and that's if the build is well behaved and doesn't throw up weird issues) what specific bit are you stuck on?

not really, the method shown in the video is pretty much the right method, although i suspect there's heavy magic of editing that's primarily responsible for making it look so slick. it's really hard to describe the movements, but you first hook the loop of the spring with the trigger, then go for getting that end of the trigger into the hole on the casing, then worry about angling the transfer peice into it's respective hole. magnets and a lot of swearing. as long as the pins remain seated in the lower half, when closing the shell together you can apply light pressure then proceed to wiggle/poke the various ends into their respective holes.

i'm all for a bit of good ol' fashioned internet debating, but it's much less fun when instead of using proper arguments to counter each other's points we just end up slinging mud. i get this is an issue we feel strongly about, i have some pretty damn strong opinions of my own and can see the temptation (hence mostly abstaining from the detail arguments), but i'd like to think this place has a decent enough caliber of user that we can be a bit more adult about this.

ahh yes, a fair point the trigger probably is a bit more complex than the g&g's simple push rod.

Afraid i cant help with getting the box out, the g&g version there was a metal frame in the body it slid into, which was very stiff when the gun was new. But as you know the cyma version is an entirely different setup so might not work that way. Maybe split the bodyshell see if that shows how its meant to go together? Wouldnt worry about being inexperienced, we all had to start somewhere, ironically starting with the g&g with its v6 box i didnt know how spoiled i was with its modular dissassembly (by the time you split the casing theres only really the tapper plate left) until i got an m4 and realised how much of a pita it normally is

might want to try with hop on, whilst it's counterintuitive sometimes having the hop completely off will reduce the muzzle velocity. the answer is it's hard to say. some v3 boxes the triggers will behave and sit in position as long as you don't mess with them, others they'll make a bid for freedom immediately. they can be a bit of a bear to get back in but for an unworn box they should at least stay put once you have them back in position. things like shims it's very common for them to stick to either the bearing, the gear, or both (eg one shim goes one way the other stays where it is), although as long as you keep track of where they were originally it's not a problem (unless you're going to do a full reshim in which case it's irrelevant) tappet plate may play nice, or not depending on where it is in the cycle when you open it. however when reassembling it'll sit nice as long as you have the sector gear in the right orientation so it isn't pulling the plate back. anti reversal latch will generally be annoying, a good method is to use a magnet on the underside of the box to hold it in place on reassembly. you can also sometimes get it to sit by putting backwards tension on it via the bevel.

4 downloads so far, so at least you're not alone

belief is fine, believe whatever you want no matter how stupid and it can and should be tolerated. sure there can be debates or attempts to convince out of it, indeed it can be fun to do so. but when that belief affects others then that's where the line must be drawn.

that's pretty damn good, if it can maintain that level of consistency then that's a great start. interesting to see how the specna 0.28's are performing with that setup.

ahh the bane of many an airsoft argument. "headshots don't count".... on a site where they did.... "he didn't take a bang kill"..... at a site with no enforced bang rule..... "gun hits count".... at a site where they didn't..... even worse is when a site can't even be consistent within itself, had games where the initial brief was X zone was out of play, except when the game bogged down the owner told one team they could use that zone, leading to a lot of "i hit you!" "yeah but you're out of bounds so it doesn't count" arguments. sites should really work out exactly what variants of rules they're going to enforce, put them up on a board, then consistently enforce them. for example i don't care if a bang rule states you have to take them, if you take them voluntarily, or you never take them, so long as i know exactly which variant i'm playing to and wether or not to be prepared for folk trying to pull a john wick.

the hop is definately a prime suspect, generally the curving effect becomes more pronounced with range as the bb slows down and is more reliant on lift, reckon it'd be difficult to spot at that range and you're only seeing it because you're being so thorough with using a target. if it were me, i'd pull the barrel and take a close look at how the contact patch is sitting, it can be very subtle. you might also want to check the fps range, eg if you're averaging 300fps on that ammo what's the ± fps range around that average. generally that's a measure of air seal and a factor in vertical dispersion, although there's also the range of ammo weights (ie ±Y grams around the nominal X gram average weight) that can affect this.

it is possible, a clear way to tell is if you see your shots consistently curving (not linear, a pronounced curve) in one direction, means the backspin is being applied at an angle, generally easier to see at longer ranges. the nub *should* stay at tdc (depending on how tight the nub is to the hop body, and how tight the hop body is to the outer barrel) but if the barrel is slightly rotated then the corresponding mound on the bucking will be lop-sided. generally before final assembly good to look down the barrel with the hop partially on as it'll be visible. the other possibility is there's been a shift in zero during rebuilding, which would be if they're not noticably curving to one side.

the other fun one is if they're within your range, and assume because you can shoot that far so can they.