Adolf Hamster

might be useful to know exactly what the import restrictions are ie exactly what the process of de-airsoftifying would require and how to declare something as australia compliant?

The issue with open dots (option 2) is when its raining you get just one drop in the emitter and say goodbye to the dot. Ofc that depends on your site and personal play choices as to wether or not you care about rain. I'm also not a fan of that particular style in terms of the way the adjustment is setup that it can be knocked off zero. Easy enough to push back against the stops but thats after you've missed. Yes the enclosed tubes are more obstructive, but with an unmagnified dot you just keep both eyes open and it'll mostly ghost the frame. Closer it is to your eye as well will help keep the field of view nice and wide.

i've never really encountered many of the electric variety of loaders, general airsoft lore seems to suggest they aren't the greatest generally citing limited power or poor reliability. however an alternative proposal would be to look at the odin M12, it's manually operated but significantly quicker and easier to use than a conventional type loader (to the point reloading mid-game is entirely viable). it's built for m4 mags but you can get adapters to fit other patterns (the evo included). there are a ton of clones out there with mixed opinions on their efficacy (commonly seems to be handles break on them) but the original model is a very reliable peice. ofc the odin won't really work well for pistol mags, but it's not so bad to load them with a traditional loader.

maybe his phone died halfway through posting and he hasn't been back since charging it?

yes it's a glock that's missing some paint and had some shiny bits glued on?

geoffs. 0.48 super precision for low round count guns, 0.32g super precisions for pistols and everything else.

Im not sure i wanna see what taran would do to an ak, or a makarov for that matter.......

generally 40mm ain't gonna be too much of an effect volume wise, especially as a proportion of the total length we're dealing with here. but if it makes it easier to source then defo a bonus. the real challenge is gonna be getting the main system sufficiently consistent (air seal etc) to really take advantage of a good ammo/barrel combo.

in fairness, certain upgrades for certain platforms can be relatively predictable. for example it can be relatively predictable that the hop rubber on a WE won't like the heavies, so changing to a ml bucking would be sensible. although yes changing every single component generally isn't a requirement and i'd certainly question generic lists where the same parts are listed for a range of different guns from different manufacturers.

690 is a long barrel, think the longest i've seen be relatively available is 650. there wouldn't be any harm in dropping 40mm from the end, there are those that'd argue beyond 500ish is too long for an aeg anyway. sadly hard to comment, only aeg i've used with a barrel that long was the '42, and needless to say accuracy wasn't exactly a priority with a gun like that.

can't say, but given the zci 6.02's are well known, well regarded and pretty affordable sounds like the easier option to go with the known quantity?

Tbf, the grassroots and informal nature of this hobby has a lot to do with it. All you need to be a tech is to convince people to pay for your work, and all you need to be a reputable tech is to have enough people convinced that the work is an improvement. Mix in the combination of customers who dont check the work, after all if you posess the skills/knowledge to check then you more than likely just do it yourself. Just sprinkle on some confirmation bias and there you have it.

tbh i don't think it's that ridiculous a comparison, i mean the car world does have plenty of examples of cowboy mechanics doing sub-par work, people "improving" their cars (you know the type- cars that ground out if you leave a penny in the road and belch more smoke than a russian carrier every time they pull away) etc. airsoft teching is basically what car repairs/modifications would be like without the likes of the MOT system and related enforcement......

you could, but as a more long term solution @BigStew's point about getting parts would be the better method. one possibility, is to solder to the motor and site a conventional connector (eg a deans connector) elsewhere, for example if you're using/planning to use a gate external mosfet then that'll plug straight in.

dat carbon..... it is possible to solder onto other portions of the connector, i've done it a couple of times although it's more of a bodge than a proper fix. as @BigStew says it may be possible to pillage connector plates from other motors/get them as spares. if it were me, i'd be thinking about cleaning up that wiring too, don't want it trying to short itself on the gearbox casing.

afaik the specna ammo tends to be rated quite well, as are bls. needless to say if specna's ammo is just bls ammo in a specna bag then that's not a bad thing.

always something random..... maybe grab a new set of contacts for the long run?

the clanging sound (accompanied by bb's going in weird directions) sounds like you're clipping the tracer. the feeding issue, is this a hi-cap mag? are you sure it's both full of ammo and fully wound?

it could be, if there's not a good overlap then it'll accelerate wear, or in the extremes the cam won't engage the col at all. generally i tend to try and keep the sector as low as possible when shimming for precisely this reason.

it can be subjective, if they're name dropping a tech that the buyer deems as reputable (ie that their work will actually improve performance) then it can, but that'll depend a lot on the buyers experience with that tech. i don't know dave's reputation well enough to comment wether or not that applies in this case.

Active brake on a build that isnt fast enough to need it can be troublesome. That said its usually by stopping at that sweet spot where the col locks the trigger rather than the reverse as you seem to be getting.

worn cutoff lever is always a possibility, likewise changing gears can have different cam profiles that may not provide enough lift. i have at times had to just try out different col's until i found one that lifted properly for a given box/gear combo. typically though that leads to full auto operation, as the system doesn't trip off correctly. are you using active brake? because that can be tricksy in situations like this. your short stroking shouldn't have caused this, as with all the teeth remaining (ie if you hadn't short stroked) then the release point and cutoff point won't have changed.

when you say stopping the gears from turning, are you meaning that it's cut off the power supply or that it's physically blocking the sector gear? because those are 2 very different issues. if it's cutting off the power supply then unless you have a combination of a strong motor and active braking, then the gears should roll past the release point on momentum. even if you've taken teeth from the pickup side, the teeth on the release side will still be in their original configuration, so the fact you've short stroked it shouldn't be the issue here as if you hadn't those teeth would still be there. (although yes it is conventional to take from the release side)

sadly it wouldn't surprise me now now, no need to be polite about it...... yep, they walk among us. hopefully not in this case.

2 tone options!?!?!?!