Adolf Hamster

i'm all for a bit of good ol' fashioned internet debating, but it's much less fun when instead of using proper arguments to counter each other's points we just end up slinging mud. i get this is an issue we feel strongly about, i have some pretty damn strong opinions of my own and can see the temptation (hence mostly abstaining from the detail arguments), but i'd like to think this place has a decent enough caliber of user that we can be a bit more adult about this.

ahh yes, a fair point the trigger probably is a bit more complex than the g&g's simple push rod.

Afraid i cant help with getting the box out, the g&g version there was a metal frame in the body it slid into, which was very stiff when the gun was new. But as you know the cyma version is an entirely different setup so might not work that way. Maybe split the bodyshell see if that shows how its meant to go together? Wouldnt worry about being inexperienced, we all had to start somewhere, ironically starting with the g&g with its v6 box i didnt know how spoiled i was with its modular dissassembly (by the time you split the casing theres only really the tapper plate left) until i got an m4 and realised how much of a pita it normally is

might want to try with hop on, whilst it's counterintuitive sometimes having the hop completely off will reduce the muzzle velocity. the answer is it's hard to say. some v3 boxes the triggers will behave and sit in position as long as you don't mess with them, others they'll make a bid for freedom immediately. they can be a bit of a bear to get back in but for an unworn box they should at least stay put once you have them back in position. things like shims it's very common for them to stick to either the bearing, the gear, or both (eg one shim goes one way the other stays where it is), although as long as you keep track of where they were originally it's not a problem (unless you're going to do a full reshim in which case it's irrelevant) tappet plate may play nice, or not depending on where it is in the cycle when you open it. however when reassembling it'll sit nice as long as you have the sector gear in the right orientation so it isn't pulling the plate back. anti reversal latch will generally be annoying, a good method is to use a magnet on the underside of the box to hold it in place on reassembly. you can also sometimes get it to sit by putting backwards tension on it via the bevel.

4 downloads so far, so at least you're not alone

belief is fine, believe whatever you want no matter how stupid and it can and should be tolerated. sure there can be debates or attempts to convince out of it, indeed it can be fun to do so. but when that belief affects others then that's where the line must be drawn.

that's pretty damn good, if it can maintain that level of consistency then that's a great start. interesting to see how the specna 0.28's are performing with that setup.

ahh the bane of many an airsoft argument. "headshots don't count".... on a site where they did.... "he didn't take a bang kill"..... at a site with no enforced bang rule..... "gun hits count".... at a site where they didn't..... even worse is when a site can't even be consistent within itself, had games where the initial brief was X zone was out of play, except when the game bogged down the owner told one team they could use that zone, leading to a lot of "i hit you!" "yeah but you're out of bounds so it doesn't count" arguments. sites should really work out exactly what variants of rules they're going to enforce, put them up on a board, then consistently enforce them. for example i don't care if a bang rule states you have to take them, if you take them voluntarily, or you never take them, so long as i know exactly which variant i'm playing to and wether or not to be prepared for folk trying to pull a john wick.

the hop is definately a prime suspect, generally the curving effect becomes more pronounced with range as the bb slows down and is more reliant on lift, reckon it'd be difficult to spot at that range and you're only seeing it because you're being so thorough with using a target. if it were me, i'd pull the barrel and take a close look at how the contact patch is sitting, it can be very subtle. you might also want to check the fps range, eg if you're averaging 300fps on that ammo what's the ± fps range around that average. generally that's a measure of air seal and a factor in vertical dispersion, although there's also the range of ammo weights (ie ±Y grams around the nominal X gram average weight) that can affect this.

it is possible, a clear way to tell is if you see your shots consistently curving (not linear, a pronounced curve) in one direction, means the backspin is being applied at an angle, generally easier to see at longer ranges. the nub *should* stay at tdc (depending on how tight the nub is to the hop body, and how tight the hop body is to the outer barrel) but if the barrel is slightly rotated then the corresponding mound on the bucking will be lop-sided. generally before final assembly good to look down the barrel with the hop partially on as it'll be visible. the other possibility is there's been a shift in zero during rebuilding, which would be if they're not noticably curving to one side.

the other fun one is if they're within your range, and assume because you can shoot that far so can they.

iirc i think specna's bb's are supposed to be decent enough. you might want to look up a chap called gasman on here did a bunch of testing on bb's a while back. i always went with geoffs, usually .3's or .32's for assault builds, pricey but it's amazing how many "feed issues" i've fixed over the years by swapping out the ammo in the magazine to them.

the ammo may well be playing a part in it, good quality ammo is as essential to an accuracy based build as any amount of hop rubbers/barrels etc, likewise removing wind from the equation won't hurt. barrel length alone generally isn't too important, at least not within the extremes (ie stupid long or stupid short). generally the other factors (quality/weight of ammo, air seal, correct voluming, hop and barrel quality) are more impactful. generally there's not much reason to worry/mess with barrel length outside of the needs of the gun to look appropriate to its real world counterpart.

yeah, that extra bit of a nub is a neat idea, but tbh i've never found issue with the standard setup as you just install the barrel before the nub and hop arm. its a tricky one to gauge, generally when pulling the box fully apart to do it a lot of it still based on feel anyway (well, at least if you're going for the basic static check). generally chrono is the best quantative measure- lower the fps dispersion the better

i can agree there, that's what's largely driven me away from the hobby, the fun bits become routine yet the annoying aspects get no less annoying. kinda arrived at the conclusion that it'll never change as long as this is a sport played by humans.

looks like the stock hop nub (red bit) is a weird proprietary shape, but it also looks like if you slide it out sideways the omega nub will sit normally in the arm. reckon that extra bit of material that's in the top is to stop the nub from falling out (which is the inevitable outcome of cutting corners and not dissassembling the hop before pulling the barrel with a standard nub) normally i'd caution against spring changes until certain the air seal is pretty consistent, as a low energy reading could be an adequate spring losing most of its puff to an air leak, but sounds like 'borgs silicone down the nozzle trick has helped a bit in that regard (also possible the macaron feedlips are sealing better to the nozzle)

inb4 all the "never use silicone on a hop rubber" posts. it should just be good to go, just be sure when you have the barrel and hop unit re-assembled to check that everything is nice and centred and the adjustment is working fine, you may need to "twiddle" a bit to get it all sitting nice.

whilst i don't strictly disagree with the premise that mass gathering events (such as, but not limited to protests) allow enhanced spread of disease compared to not having such events, there needs to be care taken not to take correlation as equal to causation. in this case, the correlation is that protest events are causing the rise in cases, when it's equally plausible that the protest events are symptomatic of a wider feeling of safety, where people are gathering for all sorts of reasons (with protesting being only one of those reasons) and it is the wider relaxation of society that is primarily responsible for the rise in cases. for example the first rise in cases on your chart, which protest event is that linked to?

i'm thinking more that folk will inevitably try to break the spirit of limited ammo by fitting a box mag, rock up at chrono "yeah i'm a support gunner" then proceeding to spend the rest of the day as-normal. and by paper 249 i mean specifically the polymer ones that are so light they double in weight when you fill them up with ammo.

as long as support gunners are defined as actual heavy guns rather than a paper m249 or ar derivative with a box mag.

it's an idea i like, as you say problematic to enforce, but good in principle for changing up the game dynamic of a regular skirmish without necessarily screwing anyone over for not having things like low caps etc. problem is, like most things in this sport, it's not the ones who are playing fairly and following the in-place rules that are the problem, so adding more rules won't necessarily fix it. this is true, and a trap we've all fallen foul of at some point, even if you're usually an ok judge of things unless you actually see the rounds land then it always remains a possibility. although that doesn't mean non-hit calling isn't a thing, it absolutely is ranging from legitimate no-feels (something no player is immune to, no matter how honest) to tunnel vision to just straight up plot armour.

i just didn't want the gun falling on the ground nah i was selling the gun as a package, although didn't get much traction so ended up splitting, iirc i sold the sling with the tri-rail then sold the gun sans-sling. yeah the tri-rails for the f2000's were difficult to get a hold of, one day my local managed to find a bunch of them and i instantly bought one. i know the real gun had a version of the handguard with a short section of rail protruding from it, but personally i preferred the whole-hog tri-rail as it's juust long enough to fit a 203 onto..... on the g&g version the handguard was hollow plastic (made of 2 halves similar to the main body of the gun), probably would be strong enough to cut a hole and mount a rail into it if you printed a block that would sit tight on the inside of the shell to mount to.

the way i ran mine was using what's sometimes referred to as a "tactical thong" around the back of the rifle, then with the front tri-rail installed it was convenient to put on an SA80 sling. had to run the sling on the loose side as the f2000 isn't as long as an sa80 and the amount of slack when switching it from 2 point to 1 point mode meant it was either too tight in 1-point or too loose in 2-point. pic pinched from one of my old sales posts:

tbh, i don't think even that works out for a sufficiently determined arse.

i can't imagine any engine would be damaged by low pressure, worst case it'll struggle to cycle properly.