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That's not much over. Can you test in your garden to set the hop so it fires nice and straight. This will reduce the fps a bit if the hop was set low. A definite way to lower fps a bit is to set it to auto and pull the trigger quickly so that it stops mid-cycle and leave it like that for a couple of days. You'll need a chrono to test it though.

Might pay to put a few mags through it, sometimes it loosens things up & drops the fps a wee bit. Also did you have the hop on or off ?, some sites ask for it to be off for the chrono but that's bs, hop on will reduce fps slightly & it's not like anybody actually plays with hop off, bb's would go everywhere except where your aiming.

Maybe he wears tactical mittens when he's playing 😏

A little while ago, I got an AFG-9. The AEGIS TM spec one. I thought “wouldn’t it be cool if you could fit a tracer in that internal dead space”… Long story short (and several dead tracers later), I have a working prototype. it’s a removable unit that fits in the space between the charging handle and the front of the kit. It’s been challenge as there’s not a lot of space between the front of the kit and front of the charging handle slide racker. I plan to sell these as a complete drop in kit for those who have an AEGIS AFG-9 in the U.K. However I still have refine the design and see which tracers can be modified to fit internally. I’m also working on a thread adapter that doubles as an inner barrel stabiliser, as you can run a 160mm TBB right up to the end of the FMG-9 kit. I’ll probably end up sharing the CAD files online for those who don’t live in the U.K. or don’t want to pay for a complete kit.

In a normal cycle you'll hear the motor run before it fires. What you have to do is let go of the trigger as the motor is running but before it fires. Usually a quick tap will do it but try several times to get the timing.

Yeah, it's a silly simple mechanical system. People just need to realize it's three gears, a piston, an electrical switch of some sort and it doesn't take a degree in nuclear physics to work on it

As I get older I remember all of the people that I've lost. Maybe I should never have become a tour guide...

A taxi passenger tapped the driver on the shoulder to ask him a question. The driver screamed, lost control of the car, nearly hit a bus, went up on the footpath, and stopped centimeters from a shop window. For a second everything went quiet in the cab, then the driver said, "Look mate, don’t ever do that again. You scared the daylights out of me!" The passenger apologized and said, "I didn’t realize that a little tap would scare you so much." The driver replied, "Sorry, it’s not really your fault. Today is my first day as a cab driver – I’ve been driving a funeral van for the last 25 years

EEEEEEE Neg Air is done with my AEG!

Ouch, sorry for coming across as peremptory - I forgot that we've all had to figure this stuff out from the very basics at one point. You'll definitely want to get your hop dialled in before doing chronoing. When doing that, you'll want to use the BB weight that you're intending to play with on the day. 0.2g is fine for short range CQB, and especially if you're using tracers indoors. Outdoors, go as heavy as your hop can lift, and your wallet can afford. It may very well be the case that your hop unit doesn't need much pressure applied to lift 0.2g. Apologies, I don't have a dial-style hop on my MP5, I have the very short MP5K with a slide-lever unit, which is quite fussy - a tiny nudge can result in over or under hopping. Your dial may be the same, and I hear tell that they like to wind themselves off in use. What's important is to have as much range as possible to test with, so that you can see the terminal behaviour. With your 1.2J+ gun you can shoot out to a real-world 50-60m, and should be able to get a flattish trajectory for most of that. It can be tricky to see exactly how your gun is shooting when you're the one on the trigger, and having someone else standing off to the side to watch the BB trajectory can help. There are loads of opinions about ideal hop and trajectory. I personally like to see the BBs lifting just at the end of their flight so that I can be sure that I've got sufficient hop on. As in, over-hop slightly, then dial it down just a touch. Here's one I memed earlier. And as above, if you put a few hundred BBs through your gun, or leave the spring cocked for a bit, it should settle down. Chronoing with (properly hopped) 0.25g or heavier BBs should also sort you out. There's even a difference between a cold spring on its first shots of the day, and the same spring after putting a mag through it. I reckon your MP5 will be fine if you just get a little creative with it.

Fully custom = changing the hop rubber and nub? 🤔

If I were you, next time you're at the site (obviously not a public place etc), ask them if you can set your hop and then use at at least 0.25g's when you chrono. I don't know of any sites which will prevent you from playing if you're <1.1J on a 0.25g. With such a short barrel you're probably experiencing joule drop (ie what's 1.18J on a 0.20g, may only be 1.05J on a 0.25g).

I can't see that this question was actually answered. <but-why.gif> Indoors, in CQB, fair enough. Woodland, you'll want at least 0.25g, I use 0.28g. In either case, get the hop set first, then chrono. Everybody else will be doing that, unless you have a weird site. On the bright side, this means you have a decent airseal, so rejoice. That's impressive energy out of a short barrel. I wouldn't go opening the gearbox, if only because the V3 triggers in these are a sod to get back in place. Just tap the trigger until it starts to cycle but doesn't fire, then leave it like that. If you do want to be sure about the piston position by seeing the cylinder, splitting these things isn't a huge chore. Take out the rear pins, undo the screw behind the magwell and push the pin through, take the small grub screw out of the fire selector, remove one side and pull the selector out from the other side. The receiver will then split along the dotted line. Reassembly is the opposite of removal, plus a lot of swearing as you try to get the fire selector, nozzle and hop unit lined up.

Just one of those things, people used to say it was a risk when buying in from abroad, but I've seen it & experienced it myself from UK retailers, one could argue they're selling guns not fit for purpose & therefore illegal in some cases, but that's a discussion for another thread. Yep you could change your spring, or snip a quarter turn off the fitted one, but I'm assuming it doesn't have a quick change spring system, so that'll be a PITA. As @EDcasehas pointed out, getting it to cycle & stop with the piston towards the rear & leaving it that way for a week will compress & weaken the spring slightly dropping a few fps, without a qc box I'd do all the other things mentioned & then get it chronoed before trying to change springs.

Yeah what the actual ffffff?

I think I need to enroll.😂 Wtf's a Brecon pocket? Dead ground? Sounds like anywhere I'm standing lol. The only crawl I know is a pub one. Regards

Due to being left in charge of childcare I have opted to conduct home schooling for the last two days. I would like to share my lesson plans for any other interested parents. Subjects covered: English - briefing and comms use. Welsh - “what is a Brecon pocket?” Chemistry - comparison of different batteries. Physics - Ballistic theory and practical example. Biology - selection of eye protection and use. How to splint a broken wrist using a flag. Japanese - studying the Marui catalogue. Mandarin - prepare a cartoon manual for your aeg. Geography - What is dead ground? topography of a game field. Design Technology - development of the V2 gearbox. History - how to collect a period load out. Maffs - capacity of different magazines and comparison. Food technology - How to cook a ration pack. P.E. - Fire and movement, the leopard crawl.

If its his pride & joy, how can he be moving on to better things, surely there's nothing betterer 🤔?, not at that price 😏

Passed on by an eagle-eyed viewer who wishes to remain anonymous. Wow, only £2000 for a wankergun shooting at 1.24J that you won't be able to use at any site (might be why he's never ever had an issue with it), and which doesn't appear to come with the one brand of magazine that it needs. [EDIT] Eddie the Eagle Eyed Viewer reckons that's £1300 worth at retail prices. I guess the extra £700 is for the peace of mind of that "never ever had an issue" cast iron guarantee about its past performance.

First game at District 23 last night. What a quality site. It's a 2 story CQB arena within a industrial unit. Player count was around 15 people or so which was good as the site wasn't overcrowded and let me learn the layout as well as let players get flanks off and get behind the other team. Marshalls were great, super chilled about everything. Chrono was done in good time and there were decent length breaks between games to refill mags etc. Took out my MP5, Shadow 2 and LVOA as a backup in-case the MP5 went down. The MP5, with my hasty CYMA hop unit replacement, had feeding issues with the CYMA mags meaning I had to keep them pushed forward slightly. A bit annoying but other than that, the gun performed great all night and even caught the eye of a marshall who was asking me about it. Several players said it hits like a truck as well and the Olight Odin is like turning on the sun given how bright it is, however, it's a dead giveaway to where I was. The Shadow 2 was a nice piece of kit to have around for the tighter corridors/doorways of the upstairs area. Just a shame I couldn't get it to consistently hop .28g BBs accurately. Probably just need to fine-tune the hop. One highlight of the night was pushing down the left flank and seeing some lad in a black cobra hood sprint past into a dead corner. I knew he had to come back past me but if I chased, i'd get shot in the back from their spawn. I lobbed a multibang the length of the lane and it exploded at his heels as he tried to escape. Being a mostly empty industrial unit, the echo from the multibang is unreal and prompted a few "WTF was that!" calls from the whole field. Getting shot under the plate carrier sucks as well. Would not recommend. First game using my new setup and it's great. The plate carrier was comfortable for the entire game but never got to use my sling for the MP5 as I bloody forgot it at home. The two-piece molle belt was great and kept all my other grenades, pistol mags and dump pouch secure with zero movement. Overall, it was a quality night. No issues with not taking hits, marshalling was fantastic, players were all super chill, especially the guy I kept teamkilling and he kept teamkilling me. Not sure how, but we kept finding each other on the field and managed to kill each other a lot. One note i'd make is that they could use some new, brighter bands for the players that wear them. They're so old/faded that it's difficult to tell who is and isn't wearing one in the low light areas. When sorting my kit this morning, it appears as though my B&T tracer has died. It performed fantastically all night and when checking this morning, it wouldn't turn on. I tried new batteries and no change. I think it's gave up after one game. They had a Tavor in their shop and I was sooooooo tempted to buy it.

Reminds me of a line from Hitch Hikers Guide to the Galaxy: Arthur "It's times like these I wish I had listened to my mother when I was younger" Ford "Why, what did she say?" Arthur "I DON'T KNOW, I DIDN'T LISTEN!"

Swapped out some bits on the AirLite so I can run AR or 5.45 mags on it without having to change anything out. The regular AVS 5.56 placard swapped for the stretch one, and the tall Esstac KYWI that would normal sit opposite the GP pouch for a Spiritus SPUD (which I’d been struggling to find a home for since I picked it up). To finish the Ferro Mini Dangler has been replace by a SORD TED. I’m not sure the AirLite will ever be toppled as my favourite chest rig, I used to swap around load bearing like crazy but I’ve been settled on the FCPCv5 and AirLite for a couple of years now and don’t see that changing anytime soon.

Welcome .

You've pulled, get your plate carrier. Ahoy, welcome, and apologies for the UKARA rabbithole. Yes, a minimum of three games at the same site, over a minimum of 8 weeks (although some sites go with 2 calendar months, and some after 2 calendar months, so it can end up being more like 9 to 11 weeks) in order to get membership and a magic number. It is primarily recording site membership though, so it's entirely up to each site, and always worth asking. CQB and woodland are indeed quite different. CQB tends to be more intense with quicker respawns, and more and hurtier hits. Woodland can be more crafty, although you can spend 10 minutes stalking to the perfect position only to get lit up like a Christmas tree by a rental in trackies. Both can be fun. And yes, teching is intriguing, although can be frustrating as there are no real standards in airsoft, just de facto compatibility. Working on the barrel, hop unit (rotary tend to be better than dial), rubber and nub as a unit is a good start, as worse case you can always swap the stock unit right back in if your fUlLy uPgRaDeD gun is dribbling balls out on the day.

New scope and mount ready to go... ...and installed. Just waiting on a new Surefire M600 clone to replace the light, then I'll be done with this one. Then to tweak the MK18 build 🤔🤣

I use the Laylax one - https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/laylaxfirst-delta-ring-tool-for-m4solaylaxprometheus-od-recoil-and-gbb-mws Used it on the barrel and stock tube with zero problems.

Am I wrong in thinking the G&G plus 3 random mags/padded rifle case should be at best £200? And that's being very generous.