Jump to content

SeniorSpaz87

Supporters
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    1,786

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    20

  • Feedback

    0%

 Content Type 

Posts posted by SeniorSpaz87

    What have you made?

    in Guns, Gear & Loadouts

    Posted

    7 hours ago, Samurai said:

    This is great.

    I see you printed it on the inside seam facing the bed. I think you should do it the other way. Remove the protruding parts from the side so it can lay flat. The front and back protrusions will still hold it in the shell. This way the ramp will be much cleaner. The spring will probably get stuck in the bends.

     

    And/or you could make the path not just a pill shaped in cross section, but add a cutout where there's overhang. The edges will be printing cleaner.

    What I did, was printing the other side on bed and added a raised part instead to create a small, smooth surface. And also because wu-tang.

    The compressed spring forces the two sides apart with quite great force and even a small opening can make the BBs stuck. You might even need an other screw in the middle.

     

    Maybe. It does actually have a small flat section in the path. So far there is no catching of the spring. There already are 5 bolts in there, and it so far holds up from the spring with just 2, so with all 5 in it should be good. If I start seeing failures where you mention then I may change that. I have also had serious issues with prints with that much contact with my printbed. V1 was basically a solid block to get the fit right, and I ended having to print it with the top of the mag down after a half-dozen failed prints trying to print it side-down. If someone wants to test the print on that side I can easily send you a modified file, but on my Prusa mk3S I am yet to have that style of print succeed. 

    • Popular Post
    • Popular Post

    What have you made?

    in Guns, Gear & Loadouts

    Posted

    Well, it took until v7 for all the various issues to be ironed out, but my ICS Galil Midcaps are done for now. They are designed to use PTS EPM springs and followers, as well as 5 M3x14 bolts, 5 M3x0.5 square nuts, the bottom screw and square nut from the high cap, and the spring/retainer arm from the high cap. This particular one holds 104 BBs. I will do a feeding test once I get my Galil back from the shop - should be at least two weeks. To be honest the surplus of bolts is a bit overkill and technically none are needed - the metal high cap shell provides plenty of compression strength and the sole bottom bolt/nut would technically hold the insert in place, but I have like 300 random M3 bolts and nuts from other projects, and this way mag insterts can be kept in one piece outside of the shell, for shipping or should a user ever want to switch back to a highcap.

     

    image0.jpg

    image1.jpg

    image2.jpg

    image1.jpg

    What have you made?

    in Guns, Gear & Loadouts

    Posted

    So ICS Galil Insert v2 was a partial success. It took BBs, but stopped at about 50 rounds which is far short of what it should take. I think the follower got caught at the base of the first turn. The initial turn to put the BB exit at the center of the mag was too twisting, leading to the follower getting stuck there. The decrease from double stack to single there also was too extreme, meaning BBs would get stuck there. The mags also squished onto my printbed slightly, leading to a slight edge on all edges which may interfere with feeding. So v3 now has a very slight rounding to all edges to counteract that, the insert that the hop unit goes into has been made slightly ovular to allow it to fit the hop easier, the BB pathing has been reworked with gentler curves to help feeding, the double to single area has been massively extended (may cause the mag to not feed the last 5 rounds or so, but thats an issue for future Spaz), and because I could I added about another 3 BB length to the feed tube. v3 is not going to be printed - instead I will begin on v4 which will integrate the 5 clasping bolts, the sole bottom retainer bolt, and the BB retainer and spring slot.

     

    v2:

    unknown.png.46db8620e0f5da2a45695cfd05c6914f.png

     

    v3:

    unknown.png.388052f0d7f00cfa6ff7be412fd92f92.png

    HPA Engines

    in High Pressure Air

    Posted

    Terms: P* (Polarstar), OOTB (out of the box), DI (Drop In), CR (Cylinder Replacement), MC (Mancraft), W (Wolverine), ME (Mechanical), FE (Fusion Engine)

     

    So Im in the US, which means HPA is far more common and available. As far as I know I have used quite literally every HPA system out there, barring a few unique or uninteresting ones to me (Russian "bear", Im looking at you). Daytona, Escort (pre-Daytona), W Inferno, Reaper, Reaper M, SMP, Hydra, Bolt, Bolt M, P* FE v2, FE v3, FE 249, Jack, F1, F2, Valken v12, Tapp HPA adapters, CQBRussian HPA taps, custom one-off HPAs, Redline engines, MC sDiKs, and probably a few others Ive forgotten. Ones I havent used include the P* Kythera, Redline MilSim, the aforementioned Russian "bear" (aka MedVed), and as stated single-gun engines like the old JACs.

     

    P* is, by far, my favorite for a few reasons. First, LCD FCUs. Wolverine engines are a PITA to adjust to exactly what you want - the older versions using two screwdriver dials, and the newer having an extremely basic FCU with lights to show settings. P* is all written out on an LCD screen, like a calculator screen.

     

    Second, are FEs. The only true drop in and go engines (besides the v12, but we dont talk about the v12) means you can keep your AEG gearbox together for a rainy day, to shove into another gun, or to use as spare parts.

     

    The F2 has the power of the FE but is a CR engine, like almost everything else on this list bar the Daytonas. Basically this means it uses your old gearbox.

     

    Closely following this is the Wolverine Reaper. While Ive found the F2 to be an easier drop in, theres no denying how quiet and air-efficient you can make this top of the line wolverine engine. If the FCU was better OOTB it would be neck and neck with the F2, and if Id not had to work so hard to get Reapers to work well in some odd guns itd be ahead of the F2.

     

    W then makes an interesting engine - the Hydra. The Hydra is made for all those offset nozzle guns. Im not a huge fan of the engine itself, having not-great experiences with it in my P90, but if you have an offset gun and dont want to design an entirely new gearbox (something I have done a time or two) its your best option. P* has made offset nozzles for the F2, but they arent too common (still looking for a PDR-C nozzle...).

     

    A few notes about some of the other engines. The V12 is trash. Easily the worst HPA system out there and not worth looking at. The Jack is the worst engine that is actually worth the time to install in your gun. Personally Id avoid it if you can. The only one I still own is in my Marui MP7, as thats literally the only engine that will fit in it. The F1 is just a closed-bolt Jack. Daytonas are extremely fun, but some of the most time-intensive, expensive, inaccurate, PITA to work on systems out there. When they work its cleanup on aisle everyone-on-the-field's pants, but they are just such a hassle. I dont put much stock in the ME systems like the Kythera, Reaper M, or Redline MilSim as I dont run many DMRs - though the option to forgo a battery entirely is awesome if you will never go auto. If I didnt always run LMG or SMG at MilSims Id probably have a few of these engines installed over the many FEs, F2s, and various W engines I do have. 

     

    Now, since you didnt mention what gun I will go ahead and talk about the bolties. You have two main options - W and MC. W has the two Bolts, while MC has the sDiKs. Bolt is the older model that uses a battery, Bolt M is ME and doesnt use a battery. I have a Bolt in my VSR and its great. A real ninja converter of an engine, I can be audibly invisible 20 feet from a person with a good foam suppressor. The sDiKs are sorta like the Hydra to me - they are available for tons more oddball bolties, but I could never get the performance out of them, their installs are odd and have weird placement (like my MSR wanting the hose to go out the trigger?!), and they just seem clunkier than the Bolts. 

     

    All in all I probably currently own some 25+ HPA guns of various makes and manufactures. Some notable ones are my Inferno PKM, FE 249, Daytona MG36, L85, and M27, Bolt VSR, Jack MP7, FE PP-91 (see the "Mosquito' thread on here), F2 L86, F2 AUG HBAR, and F2 G28LE/417A2. I am happy to say more about certain engines if you wish. You will also - regardless of what engine you get - need a good tank and regulator to run said gun. HPA is expensive to get into, but IMO needs far less effort to tune, and breaks far less than AEGs. That being said I keep a steady supply of HPA, AEG, and even spring guns in my collection, so I can use whatever happens to strike my fancy on a particular game day. 

    What have you made?

    in Guns, Gear & Loadouts

    Posted

    Working on some ICS Galil midcap inserts. While I use drums in my Galil ARM, I do like to have a trio or so of midcaps alongside my drums in case they go down. Nothing exists for the ICS Galil besides some expensive high caps, and you all know how much I hate tactical maracas. So I figure these $7 (worth of material) inserts combined with a $6 EPM spring will work. Still waiting on an EPM insert to work on the internals, so its just a solid block for now. 

     

    unknown.png

    Acceptable rates of fire

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    I am kinda of both minds. On the one hand, I do not build any of my guns to be too high ROF, whether HPA or AEG. With the advent of Titans and ROF limiters on AEGs all my Titan builds are locked at 20RPS. HPA is even easier to tune - they get the same 20 for the most part. I also have several guns that, when built, just shoot slower. My QJB-95 sits around 15RPS, for instance. I only have 3-4 guns above that rate - my M134, M132, my KA 9mm SBR (shoots 26RPS through no fault of its own, just happened when I switched to 11.1s), and im sure theres a gun or two in there that is above 20 as well. And to top that most of the time I have them on burst or fire 3-5 round bursts on auto, if its not a semi-only game. I personally do not like accuracy through volume, whether indoors or out. What I dont like, however, is people wanting to ban HPA simply because it can be used to easily cheat. I can just as easily cheat any chrono with one of my TItan AEGs as I can with HPA - even easier in fact. You can tournie-lock my HPA reg, but you cant stop me from popping my QC gearbox open and changing springs, and its just as easy to attach my Titan programming card to my gun as it is to change FCU settings on HPA - easier in fact if it isnt a FCU with a screen. If sites would learn to lock regulators and pay attention to their players its not a hard thing to catch those trying to cheat (also I am all for reasonable ROF limits at fields), instead of just banning anything HPA.

    Thermal scope tracker

    in Guns, Gear & Loadouts

    Posted

    9 hours ago, Halo said:

    Nice that would be great, how are you finding it?

    First I apparently have to find the damn thing... It works. Its kind of like using a Trijicon SRO or RMR. No lag like many other thermals. Close in you can use it as a sight, otherwise its more of a spotting tool. Your ghillie suit wont help you now haha

    What have you made?

    in Guns, Gear & Loadouts

    Posted

    On my quest to pervert rare airsoft guns I present v1 of my JS9 build. v2 is currently printing, with a few small mods and a proper retention system. Ideally I will find a compatible SMG mag that is only as wide as a MP5 mag, but wider to do a proper QCW-05 or QCQ-05 build. If so I will redesign it to fit around said mag - the real Q-series uses a 5.8mm bullet that results in a longer mag (front to back).

    1EEEBBDD-3DEA-430E-B48E-EF416F683B86.jpeg

    Angel Custom Drum Mag

    in Guns, Gear & Loadouts

    Posted

    5 minutes ago, TommoThomson said:

     

    I've heard good things about the G&P one as well, so might take another look at these.

     

     

    That's never good when things break after only using them a few times, hope you can fix it and get to use it again

     

    Please note most of mine are the electric versions, not the flashmag version. My sole flashmag version is not doing too well compared to the electrics - the cable quickly frayed and gums up the mechanism. 

    Pistol holster for pistol w. flashlight

    in General Help

    Posted

    Find an old Safariland 6000 series holster. Secondhand theyre reasonable on price, and will fit your gun and most pistol lights. Avoid anything with a laser as they dont help you in any way, are banned at many sites, and will limit your holster options. Youll want to look for either a Glock .40cal or a G17 model holster - depending on who Nov copied his G18 from will depend on which it fits. For instance WE is slightly oversized and requires either modification (easy to do with kydex) or a .40cal holster. 

     

    Like this for example:

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/372074582487?hash=item56a15f91d7:g:ciUAAOSwJM5fUjQG

    Angel Custom Drum Mag

    in Guns, Gear & Loadouts

    Posted

    They work well, I own 5 or 6 at this point. I only would recommend the G&P Fast Attack Type drums over them. The pressure switch on the G&Ps is far easier to use on a bullpup like the L86 over the button (or flash winder) on the ACs and seems to feed more BBs/sec/ Also, the G&P is slightly taller - meaning itll fit more guns. Its the only drum to fit the 416 series Ive found so far.

    First time GBBR?

    in Guns, Gear & Loadouts

    Posted

    *Laughs in Daytona*

     

    That said, as has been mentioned try to try before you buy, plan to have a good backup primary as there will be plenty of days where it is too cold/windy/humid/sites out of gas/whothehellknows to use a GBBR. The NGRS series is phenomenal. Then look at GHK for your commie guns or the MWS for an AR. If you think youre mechanically savvy then by all means look for a cheaper option like a WE - just know that you will likely need to do more to it to keep it happy. Unfortunately the biggest downside to the GBBR world to me is the mags. By the time you have a full set of mags you could have just bought a second AEG...

×
×
  • Create New...