Jump to content
Classifieds rule 5 - adverts must have the username and date in photos. Adverts failing rule 5 will be deleted

Adolf Hamster

Supporters
  • Posts

    7038
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    148
  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by Adolf Hamster

  1. definately this, takes all the pain out of loading midcaps.
  2. in case it wasn't clear from everyone else, tinkering straight away isn't the greatest idea, especially when you don't have a reliable backup. don't get me wrong, tinkering on pews can be enjoyable and rewarding for those so inclined, and i do recommend people learn it themselves because in the long run it's great being able to sort issues yourself, buy secondhand with confidence etc, but the time and place to dive into it is not when you only have one pew, no experience and nothing to fall back on should it not work out. as someone who didn't take that advice and jumped straight in trust me the walk of shame when your latest experiment has resulted in a gun that doesn't shoot, or shoots so badly it's unplayable gets very old very quickly. ^ is definitely a better avenue for you to look at spending your money/effort on, you can include things like slings, maybe a red dot (unless you prefer iron sights, that's fine too), magazines (eg midcaps+a decent speedloader if you don't like winding hicaps). once you've got setup and are comfortable you can try grabbing a cheap secondhand gun and have a crack at tinkering with it, safe in the knowledge that your main gun is going to still serve you well when needed.
  3. As long as it aint rolling into double firing overspin is just free precocking.
  4. why do you want active braking? without precocking active brake is generally not that useful, even detrimental, outside of a subset of builds that are using the old school "just make it faster" approach to trigger response.
  5. tbh i wouldn't even go that far initially, nowt wrong with the ml macaron+omega combo but no sense cracking open a brand new gun (and voiding what passes in airsoft for a warranty) until you've got a clear benchmark and goal as to what you want to improve.
  6. whatever floats your boat i suppose. point is, there's more than just the gun performing optimally that makes for a good days pewing.
  7. certainly it wouldn't be enough to warrant the risks associated with opening the thing up with limited teching experience. first rule of teching is make sure you have a reliable backup gun before you start messing with it. in the early stages the money would be better spent on other accessories. for example i'd find a bunch of midcaps and an odin (with adapter) would increase enjoyment more than putting the money into making the gun shoot a bit better. but then i really, really hate hicaps.....
  8. might also want to check with the hop set- sometimes having the hop completely off will result in lower readings. you want to start with it completely off and go up in small increments until you find that sweet spot where the bb is going pretty straight and not flying upwards too much, it'll be good to get familiar with adjusting it as sometimes in-game being able to tweak slightly can be handy for getting some shots to land (eg turning it down to drop rounds behind a barrier). once you have it set, the thing to check would be shot-shot consistency, see what range of velocities you're getting (eg 305-315fps) as that's a gauge of how good the airseal is. as mentioned, good to just run it for a couple of games, get familiar with how it's shooting and get an idea of what areas you might want improved, no point going all out for extending range if your playstyle means you rarely use it.
  9. tbh my money would be on WE to be the ones to have a crack at it, either that or it'll maybe end up like the grach.
  10. yeah, the protrusion the top strap hooks into can be the same as required for the piston head. still reckon the fire control module is going to be the trickiest part of making it work, it may be they'll have to thin the magazine at the top to make room (ie the mag will step down from the back face at the upper end)
  11. i dunno, the gap behind the bolt face seems to be primarily the result of using the top mounted hammer (same idea as the hole in an AR bolt) i'd assume an airsoft version would be using a concealed hammer- similar to how glocks are setup, so that space could be used for a BBU as the hammer doesn't need to strike the chamber area. wether that can be packed into the gap between the grip and mag ofc is a different story.
  12. classified section is this way -> https://airsoft-forums.uk/classifieds/ you're probably going to struggle selling as a package, yes it's convenient as a seller to chuck it all into one big box but you're going to be severly limiting yourself to finding someone who wants the entire combination. plenty of folk might want a new ak, but will have their own rigs, likewise plenty of folks might have an ak and want a rig, but not many folks want both at once.
  13. you had to bring that up, i'd just about got that blanked from my memory......
  14. i'm sure it'll happen eventually, although wether or not it's any good is a different story. that said, the pews airsoft manufacturers do/don't decide to make has no logic....
  15. that's possible?
  16. must admit, my initial thought was an FR, although wasn't entirely sure. very cool project looking forward to seeing it
  17. if you got it secondhand maybe the seller still has the part? might be worth asking.
  18. yeah it's part of their appeal for ak's, not really milspec ofc but close enough for airsoft standards. oh for sure i won't deny there's lots of good shooting m4's out there, but just like a cyma ak with a few tweaks will be just as proficient at lobbing bb's as an lct/e&l the reason to go for the latter is when you also want that extra bit of attention in the look/feel of it. a fair point, hence my curiosity given that just because it's got the e&l name on it doesn't mean it'll be the same standards as their own products. that is with the assumption that it's a rebrand at least, they could be making them themselves i've never really looked into it.
  19. sounds good, do they make parts like the outer barrel from steel? most m4 variants i've seen tend to have alu for the outer barrel. always figured their non-ak lines were rebrands, but doesn't really matter who the oem is if the final product is decent.
  20. out of curiosity what are the externals like on that? i know e&l make a nice ak but never really hear much about their ar derivatives.
  21. normally we don't need to ask this question but what weight of bb is it registering 330fps on?
  22. ^that tbh, this is part of the reason actual lmg's aren't all that useful for general skirmishing. although they seem to be more useful in milsims where ammo is limited. a higher rof won't really help, and from a technical standpoint it's going to be trickier on an lmg anyway due to the magazine becoming the limiting factor.
  23. if you're going to re-wire the gun to standard contacts (with the previously mentioned caveat that i dont know if the etu box is specific/can take standard contacts) it's not really much more work to add in an external mosfet, if you wire for the gate stuff like the nanoasr then it's the same plug and play contacts for something fancier like a warfet. that said, whilst i would ordinarily advise against jumping straight in at the deep end of optical mosfets, the limited space in the prk9 might make a compelling argument for it if you want the fancy features. trying to stuff a warfet or other large external mosfet + a battery + connectors and associated wiring all under the top cover is gonna be a fun task.
  24. they can be tricksy things, some brands don't even have a grub screw which means you sometimes end up with the latch making a bid for freedom when opening them up can't really help there, not sure if the g&g mosfets allow for mounting standard contacts (never really messed with any of the g&g stuff that has their mosfets)
  25. ahh yes, those can be a right pain in the proverbial. when you say doesn't want to latch i'm guessing you mean the latch doesn't pop through the top cover? if there's a grub screw holding the latch onto the wire guide, try loosening it, that can give the latch enough wiggle room to slide a bit more freely in the rails on the gearbox.
×
×
  • Create New...