Skara

Mhm, lost faith in G&Gs, after taking apart my specnas I realized there is much more value in those.

Message the person who bought your ARP9 and offer it to them. Cheeky but it might shift it for you.

Nop, when I sold the gun he told me he was going to fit a Titan in.

 

No biggie though

My 008 is hitting about 19 on a 7.4. I daren't stick an 11.1 in for fear of it eating itself (again). I didn't think that was too bad for the setup it has.

You're right though 16:1 to 18:1 is a fairly minimal difference but it is noticable snappier, maybe thats just my mind trying to justify spending the money or maybe it's just the difference between rubbish Ares stock gears and decent aftermarket ones.

 

Very nearly went 18:1 and DSG but I need it to be a reliable backup, not a touch n go potential.

You swapped the motor, haven't you?

Yes, swapped for a SHS HT one. I wanted to leave as much as I could standard but as one part swapped it ended up mushing another so now just about everything is swapped out.

Tough decision.

As you only run 1J though I'd say aap. The mk23 carbine kit is great for a dmr with higher FPS but at 1J levels the aap for it's better rate of fire and trigger pull.

good luck getting another aap though 😝

 

Yup that's the one.

Idk honestly, the fight light series seems to be the exact same as the regular older MAV models, but they lack the buckles at the front.

 

Now I just need to find the courage to click "buy"

If you are not bothered about clones the harness that comes with this is a direct clone https://www.flecktarn.co.uk/odtmb2nx.html

No clones anymore

 

It's just not worth it imo, if I'm selling stuff then genuine kit will retain most of its value, whereas clones usually sell for chips.

quick search and found this

 

https://platoonstores.co.uk/product/aim-o-comp-m4-red-dot-scope/

Think everything has its flaws...

 

I'm riddled with them 🤪🤪🤪

There are some flats in portsmouth that have loads of flaws....😉🤭

Regards 

oh well that is worth a go at that price

 

yes they are the cheapo guns that goes a bit tits up

& if you can find one that needs a bit of TLC

well then go for it - why not

 

brand new they was like about £60 a couple of years back

but lately seem rather thin on the ground new

 

guess with the £63 really cheap CM.5XX Cyma's M4's AK's

& say £75 - MP5's, the old cheap Galaxy's have lost ground in the brand new gun section/selection

 

so 30 notes - is worth a bash

just thought of spending say £75+ at a UK retailer

(I know you're in Italy)

the thought of people rushing out to spend £75+ new

for a MP5k based on this fortunate install - is a bit risky

 

30 notes - yeah fuck it, what ya got to lose

 

just remember to order some LUCK

and when people like Luke are so good

they make it LOOK easy

 

yonks ago somebody said to another person their job is easy

& their reply was fucking awesome I kept it to hand...

 

No boss - I'm so fucking good at what I do...

I simply MAKE IT LOOK SO EASY

 

(fucking love that response)

Another option:

My team tech has an old battered TM mp5k thrown in the bin. Externally it only needs a new mag release paddle.

I could buy a brand new V3 box (8mm with QC spring), get that TM body for free and then build onto that.

 

How about this?

Free is even better

 

Only thing to watch is the bespoke bits on MP5k's...

 

Like don't break the selector plate...

 

You can get a MP5 v2 selector, but for a v3 they are not so common

 

Stuff like that be careful if tearing things apart

 

You could also drill the back of a gearbox with say 15mm hole to make your DIY QC box

(For poops n giggles)

 

Coz guns with foldable/removable stock end, with exposed box showing...

Are screaming for a QC box in them

@clumpyedge.sorry just read your post again.

I'm not sure about drones but I think you are right on that.

I'm specifically talking about people with cameras being able to film.

🙂👍

Regards 

Don’t think anyone is saying you can’t film in a public space , but if someone objects to there child being filmed they could get the police involved and you ‘could’ be on very thin ice if you refused to either stop filming the child or refused to delete the footage .

Can’t remember the exact name but there is an offence to do with filming or photographing a minor even in a public space without consent  .

In public consent is not needed.in the case of children they can be filmed so long as the footage does not contain any lewd or indecent images of them.

I typed in 'filming in public' and that's what it says.i know some people get really irate and scream that they dont give their permission to be filmed or that filming them is a breach of gdpr but neither statements are correct.lets face it we are all filmed every day by shops,garages,hospitals,shopping centres.its all around us.🙂👍

Regards 

I get that it's cheap Chinese crap, but we had to use all the provided stickers AND the leftover stickers from my mate's titan before realizing where it fucking needed to be.

Zero explanations from the manual nor the horrible qr code link.

Like, the manual literally says "disassemble gearbox, install DTU, assemble gearbox".

 

Installed, plugged the battery (7.4v) and attempted to do the usual 1st time calibration just like every other optical unit.

At that point it died.

No beeps, no boops, no anything.

After hours of testing we installed the 2nd unit, which fired a whopping ONE round before frying itself.

 

Went and installed the jefftron copy (small board integrated in a regular trigger switch).

This one works fine in full auto, but for some reason when you switch to semi the trigger jams itself into something (and no it's not the COL).

 

Yeah I'm not into optical stuff

seen there is facebook page a few days when debating all options

 

callsign professor on youtube

 

https://www.facebook.com/groups/232633248186859/?ref=share

 

but not on FB anymore

think bloke is in Netherlands and is trying to help out with issues

 

he & another gelblaster bloke Aussie 

Hiroshima Screamer on youtube

 

there is a fail rate with them

but then there has been lemon Titan's Jerfftron & Perun's too

though yes I expect at least 1 of the three I ordered to fail out of box

 

Also ordered some cheap shit 141 barrels

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001298008413.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.170b4c4d6fTLsI

 

The FH is 121, so another 20mm should just still sit inside the duck flash hider before showing vividly

The Top Tech FH shoots rather well

but the std FH is not so great so fuck it

bought a few for FH's and/or a MP5k

not expecting a prommy for like under £7

expect a bit of finishing too but wtf

 

with regards to the T238 - it's shits n giggles

understand stuff like optical mosfets have issues

like need to put in pin to v2 or cover tiny hole

else it won't fire due to light confusing sensors

(when testing box & motor outside receiver)

 

sometimes people spray inside of box black to avoid light confusing sensors or reflecting on inside case

 

and bits of tape under trigger to avoid firing at will in direct sunlight - though gotta really go some for this to fire

 

probably risky to have one of them skeleton receivers

where loads of swiss cheese on receiver allows more light to shine on box externally, risking seepage to confuse some pcb/sensors

 

use COL rest postion to help align sticker

& depending on selector plate colour - go nuts with black marker on say a blue or white selector plate etc...

to ensure you have definative BLACK / WHITE for sensors to pick up

 

plus the usual checking clearances inside box where switch went on some boxes needing some work especially reinforced ones

though G&G's are not reinforced & quite "empty" inside like SA boxes

 

Oh yes - it will be a wank & a ball ache I'm expecting

with hit n miss quality on T238's

(more miss than hit I expect)

 

but if I take extra care, I'm slightly hopeful at least one might work out to use the fuck pig DSG with no semi cam

I've got some aols 6.01 inner barrels coming soon, great quality from my test of them. Some real nice parts.

somewhere in italy "what the hell is this survey report all about, makes the property look like the surface of the moon!"

Well what do you expect - cats are natural predators

 

Lucky it was only one cat that turned up...

 

https://youtu.be/Ci6pZaxr0B0

I think Skara just wanted to show off his tool! Lol

🤭🙂

But that place needs some work done I think.

P.s nice nice bit of kit though.👍

Regards 

So.

Took the time to read the new law. It only mentions contact sports, since airsoft is definitely NOT a contact sport, I can play whenever the fuck I want.

 

(bbs aren't a means of contact between players btw)

So that means you’re not gonna go plunder some pew pews for us all ??

It's a rollercoaster lol.

Club's president decided to not play until a new decree comes out.

Considering we've had 3 different decrees in 15 days, there's a high chance of us being able to play next week, or diving straight into another full scale lockdown

God I love this country

 

May I ask what loadout you was using today

 

fires lasers then shoots all over the place...

 

Hmmm Stormtrooper jokes inbound...

 

Specna M4, G&G 0.25s..

But as mentioned before, the barrel has two nasty scratches on the inside, 2/3cms from the crown. No clue how they have been made, but I was planning on changing the barrel anyway.

Alright let me make a thread.

I still have my review posted in that section. Great gun imo for £160 when I got it.

What got me interested is the fact that it's stupid light and that takes regular mp5 mags.

 

Aight making the thread.

Yeah I know.

But still pisses me off..

 

Btw the arp spring guide has a spacer, not a proper thrust bearing but does the same thing.

Oh well  at least I got to clean up the mess created by the plastic king arms piston I previously had in the gun.

There is an air leak around the nozzle, but I'll wait to rebuild the whole box to fix it.

Beat me to it, was going to suggest of course obligatory broken spring replacement but whack an 0-ring nozzle in there whilst you're at it.
On my Ares 008 I'm using an M90 with spring and pistonhead bearings with a 128mm 6.01 inner and it sits just about on 1J, really shouldn't need an M110 to get you there.

Piston Spacers...

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Black-Nylon-Plastic-SPACERS-Standoff-Washer-M3-M4-M5-M6-M8-M10-or-M13-12-PACK/332366408497?hash=item4d6294eb31:g:9p4AAOSwUMpeH5Hx

 

15mm O/D

5mm & 10mm thickness

 

Alas the 5mm thick has only a M5 hole

so you may need to widen it a bit depending on piston head fitment

 

a 3mm tooth equates ROUGHLY to M05 or 16.4fps

so ROUGHLY a 5mm spacer adds up to 27 fps

& ROUGHLY a 10mm spacer adds up to 54 fps

 

Or a 5mm spacer will offset most of power lost from SS 2 teeth

& a 10mm spacer will offset a smidge more than SS 3 teeth

 

APROX - it kinda works but airsoft physics never works out

exactly in every case - but along those lines somewhat

 

One word of caution though...

If using a 10mm spacer, double check some longer spring guides

do not bottom out on spacer at full 101% stroke

it is very rare but one spring guide just kissed the 10mm spacer

at full retraction

Not really an issue for me as I SS quite a few boxes

but on say a full length AK 455mm where you keep full or most of stroke, then it is something to remember if trying to boost power

(either a m80 spring to get 350fps or a m100 spring for DMR use)

Then if boosting the spring compression/power with a 10mm spacer

just see if the guide/spacer come close to bottoming out...

 

FUCK IT - pics say a 1,000 words...

 

variation in spring guide lengths:

 

 

(no they are spring guides not collection of "other toys")

 

and some instances where a longer spring guide might bottom out

 

 

Now admit that is due to the collar from bearings being used...

 

 

but you get the idea of what to watch out for

(and why you should not push it with longer 15mm or 20mm long spacers inside piston)

 

So I use 5mm or 10mm thick 15mm spacers

 

and wtf as i revisited my old imgur account

here is 007's view on which gears to use...

 

@Skara - Yeah I don't really get what the supply chain issue is. Even if you pre-ordered yonks ago you won't have one in your hands for another four months.

Speculation in the SniperWorks discord says that this delay is because he's making them on order (from what I've seen they actually machine the uppers in house).

Although pre-ordering seems to be the standard now for new guns/gear/everything.

@Skara - That's one way to ensure healthy cash flow!.....also I may have accidentally ordered one but thinking of cancelling it in hindsight. I've just ordered another SSX23 and that shoots about as far as I would need it to. Plus, really struggling to compute having only 24 rounds in my primary magazine (plus those MK23/SSX23/SSX303 mags are a bitch to load). 

Nawty nawty.

You'll not get presents this year. Think on that!

😉

Regards 

I don't care

I want to get rid of the stuff I'm selling so I can fund other projects (like my new tournament M4)..

oh man.

 

"Selling my old KWA G19 as non functioning due to a slight leak at the magazine base, €50 posted"

 

"hey, is the gun working? what's the price?"

 

5 seconds after posting the ad.

 

The fuck?

Catcrap is amazing. I don't fog up any more

 

umm I think I will go with Rogerborgs suggestions.

thanks anyway. 🥴

Just google it. Catcrap antifog. It changed my perspective on antifog.

If your gun works at home perfectly

but screws up on site

 

make your own CQB site in your house

never have an issue with your gun again

 

might have buy a new TV, mirrors, lights etc...

but your gun will thank you for it

For 19 euros it's a steal.  I purchased the metal version a while back from AE but it didn't fit on any of the uppers 😞

 

I mean go for it but why making ARP9 longer than it has to be? 

As for delivery, don't worry - pretty much all of my AliExpress orders over last 6 months were delivered within 1 week, bar couple exceptions taking almost three.

Because a 5" carbine is called a pistol.

Also my ARP already has a 9" front end.

I lied.

The gun somehow came back to life on its own 😕

 

i suspect a jam, because when I took the barrel out there was a BB stuck inside.

 

Gonna take it apart nonetheless to check for actual damage, at worst a new tappet plate and piston (which I already have).

If the sector is damaged I'll just swap the whole set with the stock gears from the specna.

 

Also installed the SHS HT into the ARP and my club's tech suggested to run the gun as it is until it dies and only then open it up to install the 13:1 set.

I'm also turning off active braking because it heats up the motor like.....a motorfucker (yay I'm funneeee)..

If the other gears are OK then just try replacing the sector only

& see how it rolls/spins/meshes perhaps

 

Std sectors are usually compatible - just if they mesh smoothly

If the bevel/spur are OK, shimmed OK & meshing nicely

eg: bevel to pinion, then just look to change sector

(or as little as possible)

 

Also some have said the std SA gears are not that robust

BUT I don't own one or a SA set myself

 

Yes AB is all well & good but heat can increase

on a ferrite motor, the motor continues to spin - a lot

Where as on a neodym motor, the strong magnets slow th

 motor much quicker than a ferrite motor

 

On "the bench" the ferrite motor spins a lot longer

The neodym motor slows much much much quicker

In reality though the spring starting to compress slows them both

But I feel the neodym motor overspins slightly less in the box

So on a neodym motor AB is not needed perhaps

 

A clip showing AB on & the AB off with a neodym motor

 

 

YES with AB off the motor spins more

BUT no where as much as std ferrite motor does

This is a SHS High Speed so it is spinning faster

But doesn't carry on spinning like a std motor would

 

Now as said, ON THE BENCH

In a gun, in actual use, the spring would slow a weak ferrite easily

So it is debatable just how big the overspin difference really is

between neodym/ferrite motors in a working gun perhaps

 

But I feel neodym motors only need very very slight/light AB

to stop them and even without AB they still overspin less

 

AB imho should be used to accurately stop the cycle on pre-cock

or when trying prevent double firing when a gun is cycling too quickly

 

When people use AB to prevent double firing it can be a sign of sticking switch, worn COL or most commonly just taking the piss rof

 

If your gun does really need AB (for set pre-cocking)

then don't or at least try not use it, or only very soft AB

 

I don't use AB, so any motor heat is purely down to the build itself

(than reversing the polarity at the motor)

 

TLDR again - yeah turn off AB if you can 

Yep, already did that on every gun I own bar the Ares as the EFCS allows for fuck all customization. I rarely use semi auto anyway and when I do it takes seconds to turn it back on (at least on the ARP)

 

Regarding the Ares gearbox, I have yet to open it. I might do it this Saturday, so I can also figure out a way to rewire the thing to the front. Will make a new status update once I see what's gone and what's still useable.

 

Thanks for the help mate!

The spring has always gone in the same way, the more tightly would coils at the spring guide end.

 

I heard about this theory, but when I tested it (with both springs) the results were the same.

1.05/100, 0.64/90

 

The gun could be creeping a bit, haven't chronoed on 0.2s to be fair.

Specs change but SP90 seems irregular at one end...

 

slightly tighter at one end than the other

so you "should" have got some difference

 

compared to a regular spring...

(which should be same either way round)

 

Some other irregular springs are tighter in middle

AND one of the ends are tighter than the other...

Honestly the way the spring is fitted can make a difference

(as said I've flipped a spring to squeeze another 10fps more than once)

 

The SP90 or SP100 should just be tighter at one end

so should have made some slight difference

BUT like I said specs can change and be a different spring

or most likely just them qwirky airsoft gremlins

 

as said these spring/power stuff doesn't always follow logic

Probably why Mr Spock doesn't do airsoft

(his ears would be stinging as easy big target)

 

you got it sorted & that's all that matters

Yep, I am definitely gonna experiment more with this irregular spring theory. I've heard it in the past but never got to "play" with it.

 

SP100 is done but I still have the SP90 and I can always buy another SP100  after all it's €7.50, won't lose my sleep over that amount, plus having an extra spring in my spare parts drawer is always nice.

 

i just thought it was funny to cut a spring and gain power

Now I can SlAy ChEeTaHs on Sunday

Ahahahah, I'm afraid our adventures with the cheetah club are over

After "stealing" our worst members (literally, they took in a guy who doesn't call his hits unless he bleeds and another who thinks he knows it all lol), we decided to never invite them on our field again.

 

With that being said, I think I'll bring the AK, although I have to check the shimming as it's a bit of a whiny bitch, if I can't fix it in time then it's Honey Badger time with the specna as a backup.

I have ML rubbers in all my guns, so hopping them rocks isn't really a problem..

Referrs to .32's as rocks

 

*Looks at several bags of .48's*

 

*Looks at dragonuv*

 

*Decides to shut up and not dig himself a hole*

Got more Intel on the field I'll be playing at.

Seems good for sniping..

 

Okay, gonna take the sniper BUT I am also taking the AK + smersh combo, just in case shit gets real and I need to fling many BBs over there in a short time.

I just rebuilt the HB in its stock form, with the super unbalanced and heavy OEM 9" rail. It's uncomfortable but it does look good, especially with the FF carry handle (which I bought FYI ).

also chronoed it, 0.96J (good) and 16 RPS on a 11.1 (meh).

New motor's coming in next week (debating whether or not putting the ifrit 25k or the incoming SHS high torque in there, any tip?).

 

I've already seen that AY thingy, what bugs me is the metal receiver.

Not because of the weight (2070g vs 1930 of the Ares and I can still send it to a friend to be skeletonized and shave some grams off) but because after a while all the metal body guns I've seen turned into wobbly cunts. Definitely inviting for the price (apart from the weird gearbox shell).

 

I'll check on another teammate who has a CCR, it's been rebuilt recently and runs somewhat smooth.

Ifrit is more expensive

25k and main point is it has an " O " type pinion

 

The SHS HT is 30k (ish), has a D type pinion

 

To me it falls to performance/price and ease of pinion replacement. Even if you got a pinion puller, if you can get or already have spare pinions that some might mesh with bevel being used

 

SHS do both type of pinions anyway

 

If you got a puller then it boils do to the price/performance & availability I guess

 

Both are good motors

If you got an ifrit in your gun then you don't HAVE to change it like you would if you had a later STD 18k G&G grey motor

If people find the 25k Blue "Powerful Motor" ferrite motor

or better still the Orange Ifrit in their new G&G then they don't really need a new motor is what I mean

 

 

tough call but price performance I'd probably go for SHS

but if a Ifrit came in gun or lightly used one came along for a cheap price I'd consider it

 

as said think price/availability along with pinion etc...

will dictate which one is better - but both are decent

 

 

 

Asked because I already have an ifrit (it's in my arp at the moment), since I'm getting another SHS HT/13:1 combo I thought I'd slap the SHS stuff in the ARP and use the 25k on the Ares.

 

I'll give it a try tomorrow and see what happens

 

Not looking at 27 RPS/7.4 type of performance tho.

but ffs 16 RPS on a 11.1 is just meh

I know about the original video, it's been posted in here a couple of times already.

 

I thought it'd be nice to remind people to NOT act like they're some speshul forces 

 

 

I'm speshul needs 🤪

Watching somebody watching something.....

jesus, life’s too short