Skara

Probably because there is less "length" to go wrong compared to a longer one. In the wall of text I deleted I mentioned how my 5" M4 is way more consistent than it was with a 10" barrel, essentially achieving the same, if not slightly more range. And the 5" is just a cut down and recrowned Guarder barrel I had while the 10" is a prommy 6.05...

I was going to write a wall of text to respond and debunk, but... If a long barrel is betterer than a short barrel, then explain the Mk23...

As if I didn't have enough kit... https://eberlestock.com/products/bandit-pack Bought this in "military green", hopefully I can test it before the upcoming national finals, it'll replace the Tasmanian Tiger Essential..

Eeh, first game after summer break went well. Nothing interesting to say about performance, I've had the shits all week and I'm not in top shape, but I'm glad I managed to play and not turn into a puddle of feces. Gun/gear wise, finally tested the new pdw and yeah, I'm happy with it. Throws 0.32s over there at 27 RPS with a reasonable degree of efficiency, considering it's running a 3t short stroke and a M95 spring.

Go to your local retailer and ask for a boneyard V2 gearbox.. Though you may want to add a lower receiver and pistol grip so that you can learn and experiment with the whole mechanical system assembled

Certified dreamer moment: Managed to sell the SMERSH for €150 posted.... I paid 70 for it....

Slap an LEP bulb inside and burn someone's retinas

The SHS nozzles I bought a while ago were supposed to be 21.3 but they turned out to be 21.5 and change.. Length also depends on the hop unit, hop rubber and inner barrel, some combinations love short nozzles, others want longer. For example the Maxx TE hop I have in my pdw says it wants 21.25mm tops but ran fine on the aforementioned 21.5mm shs nozzle for a while.

Plenty of threads already on sorting out the power and various issues. It could be the cylinder (doubt it, that thing should be good up to 360mm barrels), it could be the nozzle timing, nozzle length, nozzle air seal, hop unit fitment, hop rubber lips, general compatibility between these parts. Could be the tappet plate, delayer chip, tappet plate spring, tappet plate compatibility with the gearbox shell, number of teeth removed off the sector gear..... All the info we have is the cylinder size and barrel length.. I reckon it's time to write an article on the matter and then copypasta it everywhere....

Must be the King Arms box being a little off spec. Had a similar issue when trying to fit a Retro Arms gearbox inside my now deaded KA PDW. It went in a little weird. Lancer Tactical should use the same OEM as Specna, Dboys and such, so I expect them to be pretty much as standard as it gets whereas King Arms seems to be doing its own thing altogether.

Last night game of the season is over, games were slow because the area we played in had thick canopy coverage so it was nigh on impossible to see anything (well I could hehe).. So no Airsoft for me until September where we have a 27h game on the first weekend and the national finals on the last. In the meantime I'll try to source some NV..

So, this new gun. magazine wise it doesn't like stock high caps, there is a bit of wobble and I have to move them around to "feed" 5/6 BBs before needing to wind them again. Absolutely flawless on the G&G ARP-9 drum, it sits very tight (actually needs a tap to lock in place) but feeds every BB, specna midcaps are okay although the one I have seems to have a too weak retention tooth, first time I loaded it some bbs went flying, feeds fine. I have tried the bevel to pinion shimming method on this one, unfortunately the amp meter I have doesn't want to register semi auto, spamming the trigger showed 20 amps, while full auto showed 20 at startup, then 12 still going down. This on a 11.1v 1450mAh 60c. Energy and rof are 1.25J and 27 rps. Cycling in semi is quick. Setup is: RA gearbox Perun Hybrid Wanker Maxx adjustable trigger Zci 22tpa Rocket 13:1 gears SS'd by two at the front SHS m110 (m120 really) Type B cylinder (for 200-250mm barrels) Knackered shs nozzle, to be replaced with an FPS one Maxx TE hop unit ML 70° Super Macaron Prommy 6.05x208 barrel Range/consistency wise I've only briefly tested it yesterday night on 0.25s, range seems okay but there is a weird horizontal spread that I will have to address somehow.

how so?

Forums survive for two reasons: Quality content and filtered access to it. You can't have only one of them, there is no quality content without filtered access and vice versa. A simple registration process (provide an email address, a username and a password) is a formidable tool to keep most of the retards away. Look at facebook pages, almost all of them are shitholes where the same questions are asked over and over and over again in a 15 minutes span from one another, where half the comments make you want to commit a genocide and where people mostly parrot whatever the celebrity of the month said. Also as Tackle said, spoon feeding information is wrong... What was the saying? Give a man a fish.....

TM AEGs aren't worth it imo. Yes they work as advertised out of the box, yes the assembly quality is great and there are barely any cases of short term malfunctions but... Once they break they are kind of a nightmare to properly fix without throwing away half the internals. A teammate had this CRW high cycle M4 that worked really well for a couple of years and then stripped the piston. Now there is fuck all left of the original parts inside, I think the motor and tappet plate spring are the only survivors, we had to change the gearbox shell, gears, arl, trigger contacts, piston head, cylinder head, cylinder, nozzle, tappet plate. Everything basically. I provided many parts free of charge because he's a friend, but damn, if he was to pay for all of them it would have been stupid expensive considering how much he paid for the gun in the first place. Same goes for the vsr, by the time one has done all the steps to make it last/bear 2 joules of energy he will be left with the whole innards being outside of the gun body. GBBPs and NBBs otoh are fantastic and don't really need anything except for a hop rubber if running heavy BBs. Can't comment on NGRS because I don't like the idea of recoil and blowback on an electric so you'll never see me own one.

My bad. I've always associated the name with the horribad system. In any case it's an ancient name I haven't heard in literal years, back then they were "the poop" alongside Classic Army funny to see how well the whole thing turned out

Following up on my PCC/PDW thread, the replacement gun arrived. Which I promptly emptied and transferred the KA PDW parts into. Now it looks something like this:

Ah yes, that genius idea from G&G to create a huge air leak to move a completely unrealistic and unnecessary part Good riddance.

Forget QD points if you don't plan on moving the sling over. Two simple paracord loops will allow you to anchor it wherever you like

One thing that will always puzzle me is how most of these parts are "one dimensional", designed around ONE part (stock upper receiver in this case) without taking in consideration what's available on the market. With that being said, TDCs are a well established upgrade that more and more manufacturers are incorporating in their designs, a few of them actually include drilling jigs (either made of metal or "single use" plastic/3d printed parts) to have a clean end result, which will also drop manufacturing costs for things like dials and leverages in general. Now I am not saying those chambers suck, but from a designing perspective they're less efficient and convenient than, say, the first iteration of the Stalker TDC kit. Okay you need an additional tool (hex key) to adjust the hop, but let's be real for a second, unless one brings 6 mags with 6 different BB weights in them, there is absolutely no reason to set the hop mid game, especially in a pistol that doesn't see much use outside of close range cqb environments or close range backup to a primary that requires a MED.

Is it possible to have a picture of the sector gear? They are usually very hard wearing (esp G&G gears) so unless something has gone horribly wrong I don't see how the sector can get chewed before the piston does... Also, regarding delayers, I would not simply throw one in there and hope for the best, gearbox timing is something a lot of people get wrong and then try all sorts of voodoo magic in a desperate attempt at recovering whatever fps/feeding they lost. Neither of these things is complicated to understand or fix, but both of these things require a minimum of thinking ahead.

Given a constant velocity, yes. To have a 100% honest reading though, I guess the chrono needs to be setup in a way that the end of the barrel sits in the same exact position every time, relative to the first sensor and then needs to take into account the reduction in velocity given by drag, measured (or calculated) for each bb weight, in relation to the distance between the two sensors. And then everything needs to be certified somehow so that the readings can be used, should the need arise, in legal matters.... Something nobody hopes to resort to.

Go in this order: pick hop rubber pick barrel fix possible air leaks pick spring. You'll be amazed at how many FPS you can squeeze out of a M90 spring when your compression set is air tight Hop rubber wise, first choose a bb weight you're comfortable with, it could be anything from 0.25g to 0.32.. I personally use 0.32s for everything except my Well minigun (0.25s, it's a rather expensive gun to run), regardless of the situation/field. Then pick something that will actually lift the desired weight. I personally use Maple Leaf Super Macarons in 70° hardness, 60s do work well too, 50s are too soft and cause issues. MRs can work too although I had issues with them. Next, don't pick an ultra tight barrel (6.02 is borderline too tight imo) otherwise you'll be at higher risk of jams and mayhem inside the gearbox. In my experience 6.05 is the best diametre. Sort any air leak and replace components accordingly (most likely the nozzle, buy one with o-rings, keep it polymer though). At this point you can change the spring to match the desired power output.

This aged like fine wine. Receivers (yes, both) are badly bent, I knew there was something off but didn't pay too much attention until yesterday night. Upper is not compatible with other brands as it's 3/4mm longer. Buying a replacement from King Arms is ludicrously expensive because of postage and import fees (€70+, not even counting the price of the receiver set itself) which makes it cheaper to just buy a new gun. At this point there is a whole new gun I'm looking at.... Stay tuned for more OCD autism

Sounds like your motor is too low, so it just barely engages the bevel gear (read it's chewing it away). Whenever you adjust the motor height, you should: a) plug the weakest battery you own to minimize emotional collateral damage; b) start with the motor HIGH, that way should anything happen it'll just stop instead of shredding something. Keep adjusting (read unscrewing) by a quarter turn at the time until the sound is crisp/not as scratchy, if you keep going you'll hear the sound change to a low-ish note of scratching, this means you've gone too far and the motor is now too low. Find the sweet spot in the middle. Cut-off is not near the motor, it's next to the trigger and doesn't affect noise.. You probably meant the anti reversal latch, which engages the bevel gear, but that generally doesn't do anything apart from wearing itself out at a stupid angle. A worn anti reversal is recognizable because every time the gun stops firing you'll hear the gears slowly spin in reverse under tension from the main spring and the next shot will be a double feed.