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So... I don't just collect pews, I collect webbing/fieldgear/ bergens etc. Had my alice for a while & got some Molle II in ACU/UCP last month so here's some pics of those. This week I also got my hands on a DPM chest rig with a DPM holster for my plce & a pattern 58 water bottle pouch to complete a set I've had since last year. I've been after a WE L85A2 GBBR for a short while but spotted this ICS Galil on Firesupport & figured I had a few L85's already but no Galil (until now). Straight out the box the front sight post had worked it's way loose from the sight body so once it's 'zeroed' I'll lock tight it in place, the gas tube is a bit wobby so will see if I can tighten that up too.

You defo need more stickers. Also, overlapping & jaunty angles are a great effect although vastly increases the amount of stickers you need for the same area. Am currently doing the same to the garage beer fridge but it's looking too sparse to contemplate a pic at the moment.

I see this time and again. People start to give perfectly well meaning advice without actually understanding what's happening. Is the hop adjusted at all, what weight ammo is being used, what ACTUAL range are you getting and what do you think you want to actually achieve? New players often overestimate what they will get from their guns and underestimate the benefits of simple things (like barrel cleaning and hop adjustment. As for the accuracy question, as has been mentioned innumerable times before airsoft guns are smoothbore toy guns firing very light ammo with a crude method of imparting additional range (ie the hop unit). If you're expecting 100m range and pinpoint accuracy then you're likely to be disappointed.

Just got this today, shooting .2's at 1.1j/330.4fps on a 7.4lipo 1400mAh

Just for laugh I once made Giraffe Camouflage 🦒 on my G&G CM16...

I have just had my APFG Rattler delivered today and I am over the moon with the thing! Build quality is insane and it is rock solid, I spent some time cleaning all the icky factory grease out of it and using some gun salve to re-lube it. A massive thanks to @WilloJayfor making me some extended screws for the hammer connector, I made sure to loctite them before testing. After all that prep I chronoed it and holy sh*te does this thing kick, and fling bb's at some insane speeds. Stock with abbey red gas and the suppressor installed I was getting 370fps on .32's😵 I haven't fiddled with the NPAS at all to bring it down but I'll list the out of the box findings below: - STOCK w Suppressor and Abbey Red Gas - 370 - STOCK w/o Suppressor and Abbey Red Gas - 305 - STOCK w Suppressor and Abbey Green Gas - 320 - STOCK w/o Suppressor and Abbey Green Gas - 270 All the test's I've run were with .32's and it was very under-hopped, so I will see if I can get a consistent hop with a good fps in a mo. I was using a standard VFC gen 3 mag that came with the gun for each test, I do have some VFC Gen 3 V-Mag's that I'm going to test to see if it has any impact on performance. I doubt it but its worth a test 🤷‍♂️

this is a fair point. i do occasionally get pm's asking about long expired ads, and i can certainly see how for those with a more expansive classifieds history that could start getting annoying. probably a balance to be struck, yeet ads after a year's inactivity or such.

We should not be contemplating changing things for the sake of a few with room temp IQs that cannot comprehend what expired means. Leaving completed and expired sales posts is invaluable as already mentioned.

VID_36950321_105842_790.mp4

Nah. Leave them be. It's very handy to be able to scroll back years of sales to get prices for things. Especially obscure, no longer in production stuff. I guess you mean sold rather than expired as plenty of stuff is still for sale on expired adverts that the seller just hasn't bumped. It literally says it might still be available...

I've repurposed these First Aid Boxes,,,perfect to carry my mags smokes flash batteries scopes ect

I went down the wide bore rabbit hole with an SVD I had many years ago; the drop in power was significant compared to a tight bore barrel.

don't know what to do to get it up. Viagra?

Given that this is the most active UK forum, especially for sales, keeping old threads around for reference is very relevant. Not forgetting that it's also the only place where members are allowed, even encouraged, to discuss the prices of items being sold here, or other websites. Those two aspects alone are a virtual mine of useful information for existing & new members alike. The only real issue with old sales threads is when sellers don't update their status, such as when items are sold.

Think the main motivation is to keep ads up as a sort of reference library for sales prices

Found some really cheap 0.40g BB's, thought "wow" and bought 4,000 of them for the DMR. Now I have them I realise they're black 😢

The first things to try are making sure the barrel is clean and then try heavier ammo. It's surprising how much extra range you can get from simply using different weight bbs. If this doesn't work then my next step would be to swap out the hop rubber, I recommend a Maple Leaf macroon 50⁰. This is a cheap and easy job (even I managed it without a problem and I've got the tech skills of a drunken chimpanzee)

Babe wake up new APFG update, Okay yet another post, I've been busy. So the screws work perfectly so far with testing, I've also swapped out my maple leaf Mr hop 50 degree out for a flamingo 60, this was because I found that with the combination of Mr hop and crazy jet barrel the bb was getting seated slightly differently each time causing inconsistent hop affect . So far the flamingo has been much better however I haven't shot many shots through it. Also installed the GSI mcx hop arm with their soft nub, The tolerancing of the hole that the pin for the arm sits in was way too small so I drilled using a 2mm drill bit it out until the pin sat in snugly. The GSI hop arm is better as it has a flatter contact patch, as oppose to the original arm which has a thin rounded metal part which causes inconsistent bb hop especially when the power changes (very bad as GBB are always slowly loosing power). Also another thing to note is the JWI hop unit is a very snug fit in some spear! If there are anymore things I discover I will post them here Until then Enjoy!

Hmmm could you just be mad that he's better than a lot of players? From his YouTube it seems like a lot of cheaters seem to be those he faces. Also are you or the forum not worried about the liable remarks of defamation against KickingMustang? If I was him I would contact the police about these accusations other than the cheating. Also calling him that name is actually bullying and says alot more about the person you are and the forum that condones this behaviour. My guess the maliciousness comes from him possibly putting you up on YouTube as a cheater. Camera never lies. Hate him or love him he's getting alot of people into airsoft. Do better! Be nicer!

Because they're stupid? Don't assume that anyone that worked on your gun before you knew what they were doing!

I'm a little confused, ar15 handguards all come off the same , pull the slip ring back , it might be hard but will come away , wiring is fine as the reciver has a cut out. Fh off and then both pins and the Allen nut on the front sight and it will all pull away ( make sure to fully undo the Allen nut or it will mark the barrel. Just pulled a 727 project out the cupboard, notice how it's my handguard twisting and the barrel nut it solid , when the lower is on no flex at all 20240621_213043.mp4

Unfortunately I need to get the front handguards off as it's front wired 😅, appreciate the input anway though. Yeah understand that. On mine it was the bottom section that was loose. Now that I have looked properly I can see that the top section is loose.

That's cool👍 How did you do that?

uh oh could be the problem

Welcome to the forum Nobody has a ukara licence, they don't exist. Now I've got that out of the way on to your question. By cover the blue do you mean temporarily while playing or permanently? The former is absolutely fine and can easily be done with a roll of sniper tape. If you mean permanently then IIRC it's technically illegal but if you can show you're using it for playing airsoft (at a proper site, not dicking about in a mate's garden) and don't do anything stupid with it you'll be fine

So early January 2024 we’ll finally see the ASG CZ p-10c Co2 version in stores across the UK. i’ve got my grubby little hands on one so anything you want to know. Ask away. key points so far: -2 versions, “vanilla” & “tactical” -Alloy slide -Polymer lower - hop up adjustable without removing the slide whilst the slide is racked -Safety trigger with a mechanical safety under the front of the lower - “tactical” comes Optic ready but includes rear irons in the box aswell. 14mm ccw thread - ambi mag release, optic plate & threaded outer all available separately - 3+ magazines from a single co2 bulb at approx 10c

Yes I agree. Ucap are quite hot on dry firing in safe zone even to the point of 'put it down' as I was shouldering the gun to check red dot was working.

I was wondering the same, my MK12 is doing 420 FPS on a M120 spring! @MrTea just to go back to basics, I assume you've checked that you're actually getting good compression with all the new cylinder/piston parts?

That was what I was going to do initially however it appears his XT springs don't go past M150. Up until this point, it's exactly what I was using. Not yet. Now i'm closer to the limit, and have it chrono-ing consistently, i'm going to give it a test on 0.36g BBs to see how it's performing.

That is all rather concerning.

Except that you're trying to draw more current than the battery can provide, which will, best case, heat it up and shorten its life, or worst case spark it up.

And bear in mind that the incoming fire that you're trying to emulate could be coming from a hot gun, or a DMR being trigger-spammed.

For the love of GOD don't start chasing FPS limits. Use it, see if it's actually lacking in range/accuracy first. As for your other question, yes absolutely if the window on your barrel is too small or if the rubber hasn't gone on properly then an MR hop will catch on the edges. SHS springs can be quite wide tolerance. Pick a spring brand you like and trust (*coughs* XT @ak2m4 *cough*) and stick with it.

If you're looking for £200, list that as your asking price ONO, you might get close to it if you're willing to haggle. The only pews & kit I make an offer on that I don't end up buying are the items that have no wiggle room for negotiation. Keep listing it until it's sold. You'd be surprised how many classifieds I've bought the second or third time it's been advertised & nearer my original offer than the sellers asking price.

Actual progress this time around but additional confusion. I tried sanding down the Maple Leaf MR hop rubber feed lips. No matter how little I took each time, I could never get a rubber that resulted in consistent FPS readings - at one point I got an FPS reading of ~800 so IDK 😅 I've been messing with different hop rubbers trying to find one that consistently works especially when the stock hop rubber ended up splitting when changing it over. I was going to try the a ML Macaron 60 degree as i've never had an issue with them before and they just worked. During the process of installing it I noticed that the hop unit wasn't applying hop evenly, it was applying too much pressure on the right side resulting in uneven hop. I think this is simply due to the way the hop unit is designed that makes the hop arm slightly off center. Happily I managed to remedy this quite quickly by using a small o-ring that I had lying around which I think is for a MOSCART fill valve? All I did was just put this between the body of the hop unit and the hop arm. Before anyone mentions it, yes the screw is in the wrong side of the hop unit and no, this isn't what was causing the issue with the misaligned hop arm Now that I had sorted that I moved onto changing the hop rubber. I have a prommy purple I was going to try out but for some reason I just wanted to try a Maple Leaf Macaron yellow/60 degree just because they've worked flawlessly on everything I've put them on. I also installed the bucking with the Gearparts Omega 70 nub from AK2M4 and it worked. I am so mad. I am confused as to why this works. Before I tested this, i'd bought and installed a SHS M160 spring to creep up the FPS. The spring is very twangy (if that makes sense) and it's pretty annoying. Since starting this build, i've changed which outdoors site I go to and they allow 450fps for DMRs so i've still got a bit of headroom that i'd have to buy an M170 equivalent to get to. Is a SP160 the same as a M170? Could it be the MR hop bucking didn't work as the hop window on the inner barrel is too small causing inconsistent contact? I am at a loss as to why this suddenly works... I want to buy another ML MR hop rubber and try it but I feel like if I disturb the hop rubber in the slightest it's gonna throw a fit and not work anymore.

Depending on what it's going on I recommend either brown or chilli mayo

That is a very good question. I would say before you start buy a chrono find out what the gun is doing and how consistent it is. get a few samples of heavy weight BBs next time you are at a game site use their range to see what BBs give you the best range and go from there. A well set up AEG will be accurate (hitting centre mass consistently) 50 to 60 metres you are not going to get much further than that longest I have seen a AEG shoot accurately is 80m and that was tuned to high heaven.

How much more range? What sort of range are you getting now?

Fitted the omega nub with the maple leaf bucking, 298 - 307 (.25g bb’s, adjusting hop incremental and only a tiny drop) Seems I’m now on the right path, so fingers crossed all is good next month 🙏

Had a dig around with not much joy, real steel vests primarily aimed at the Indian home market, as well as other nations in the region. They've not had any luck getting western nations to adopt these in any numbers, hence why very little has filtered through to the secondhand market. Almost everything on the net regarding this model is pretentious sales blurb, with no mention of pricing etc, probably considered crass to talk money ?. Best thing you could do is maybe contact mku via email, maybe spin them a yarn about travelling somewhere "spicy" for work & your considering body armour options, covert & overt, they might fire off a catalogue/price list without asking for professional credentials ?. Alternatively look at similar real steel pc's, & guesstimate a 70% price from that ?.

It’s okay we got you covered. 😉😘

A woman is standing looking in the bedroom mirror. She is not happy with what she sees and says to her husband, “I feel horrible; I look old, fat, and ugly… I really need you to pay me a compliment.” The husband replies, “Your eyesight’s damn near perfect

Hello bud and welcome to the asylum🤪 Yeah nice loadout 👍 Why the last? Regards

Some photos might help as, at the moment, we have no idea which make it is and which springs have boinged away.

Just a word of praise for the staff of Black Ridge Outdoor Gear. An online Airsoft supplier whose staff are ready to talk to you and offer advice and interact with you. It makes a refreshing change to find a supplier who wants to help. Thanks Thomas 👍

Going to be a bit of a wall (such a glorious wall that I'm scared the FBI is going to raid my house and throw me in jail), so I will add a TL:DR at the end with some key points for those who don't want/need to understand the physics and mathematics behind our hobby. Ok, so I've done a LOT of research into BB weight and ballistics due to my interest in long distance shooting in airsoft. Also, please bear in mind that this is, at the end of the day, a layman's explanation of this. I'm operating on A-level mathematics and GCSE physics here, and I haven't done them in about a decade. It's also really hard to explain this without a whiteboard or sheet of paper to draw diagrams and stuff, so bear with me I'll do my best to keep it accessible! So, the maths behind our hobby! Kinetic energy is calculated by 1/2 x mass x (velocity x velocity), using brackets as order of operations means we do the squaring before the multiplication but it's easier to show this way exactly what I'm doing. However we can't just translate that to airsoft measurements of fractions of a gram and feet per second, as joules are calculated using mass in kg so really really small numbers in our context and velocity in metres per second, not feet per second. So a 0.2g BB shot at 328fps, which is 100m/s would calculate as: Energy = 1/2 x 0.0002 x (100 x 100) Energy = 0.0001 x 10000 Energy = 1J Only reason I used 328fps instead of 350fps is to avoid plaguing you with weird numbers and make the example easier to follow. Really, feet per second is annoying and we should be using metres per second since it's easier to work with in terms of energy calculations. It's why springs are m100, m120 etc, as they're designed in m/s rather than ft/s. What we can take away from this is that mass and velocity work in tandem to calculate joules (I know, I'm big smart for drawing such a conclusion). However we need to briefly consider momentum to understand ballistics; my physics teacher always described momentum as "how much something will hurt when it hits you" and is a lot simpler than kinetic energy. Momentum = mass x velocity. Easy. I'm not going to bore you with the calculations I'm doing for this example now, but I'm looking at 1.14J on a .2 and on a .48 as a comparison. That's 350fps on a .2 and 226.1fps (1 decimal place) on a .48. We can already see that momentum is going to be very different, but for argument's sake... momentum = 350 x .2 = 70 gram feet per second momentum = 226.1 x .48 = 108.5 gram feet per second (1 decimal place) So a heavy BB fired with the same kinetic energy as a lighter BB has more momentum (just over 50% more!). This is why when someone point blanks you with a .48 from a 1J pistol and says "stop crying, it's only 1J" is talking bollocks. Do I think we should be operating on momentum-based rules for airsoft? Hell no, that would be cancerous, but it's a consideration that I feel comes under the golden rule of "don't be a dick". However, this also goes a LONG way to explaining why heavy BBs tend to go further than lighter BBs; they simply have more momentum pushing forwards due to how physics works (the old example was if I throw a balloon vs if I throw a cricket ball with the same kinetic energy, which goes further). However, there's one last thing to consider when it comes to range and that's deceleration, as the BB is being affected by a number of things trying to slow it down and drop it to the ground, namely air resistance and gravity respectively. Hop up creates a backspin to give the BB an upwards lift to combat gravity, but combating air resistance isn't happening. I won't go into the mathematics on this as deceleration past GCSE level is really maths intensive (I would probably have to break out calculus and trigonometric functions to explain my point), but essentially an object moving at a higher velocity has more air resistance acting on it, so that BB travelling faster actually has more pushback from Mother Nature than a slower BB. Furthermore, that air resistance is going to have more effect on a lighter weight projectile as lower mass makes it easier to push back, so a combination of higher air resistance and more impactful air resistance means that a lightweight BB fired at the same energy is going to slow down and lose that energy a hell of a lot faster than a heavy projectile. Anyway, I hope you're all still awake after that (I find it fascinating, but I know not everyone does), but now I'll move into airsoft specific phenomena like joule creep and cylinder to barrel ratio. With AEGs, it's rare that power goes up with weight but it is possible. I couldn't explain to you in detail how the maths works out, but essentially there's a sweet spot for ammo weight with most guns and it varies dependant on inner barrel length and cylinder size. What tends to happen is that shorter barreled AEGs are more efficient with heavier ammo, but longer barreled AEGs tend to drop in power with heavier BBs due to voluming issues; the cylinder doesn't have enough air to fill the barrel so the BB starts to decelerate while it's still in the barrel, meaning that a heavier BB that comes out slower originally will start to have forces working against it (friction with the barrel and air resistance) sooner by fractions of a second, but it all affects it. It all depends on if there's enough air in the cylinder to fill the barrel. Look up cylinder to barrel ratio for a better explanation than I can give; I don't use AEGs much and they're the only guns I don't tech myself because I'm useless with gearboxes. Also, as has been said, heavier ammo typically needs more hop pressure to be applied which can also drop your power (as at the end of the day you're adding some resistance to the BB's flight path. Assuming you have enough air volume in an AEG, or if you're using another platform like a GBB, then heavy ammo will typically cause your power to go up due to joule creep as long as you're not having to apply incredible amounts of hop to lift them. The BB will accelerate while it's in the barrel as long as there's something to push it, which for a gas gun is the gas expanding when it leaves the magazine, so a longer barreled gas rifle will have a higher power than a shorter barreled gas rifle as it has more space to accelerate before leaving the barrel; it's the same as real-steel firearms, a long barreled AR-15 will shoot better at longer range than a short barreled AR-15 assuming the same ammo due to acceleration in the barrel. So why am I saying any of this? Well, it's the considerations part of your question. With AEGs you need to consider cylinder to barrel ratio and with gas guns you need to consider barrel length. In both you need to consider the hop setup and how much you need to apply to lift the BB and the barrel diameter also impacts power; wider = less power, tightbore = more, as there's less space for air to escape past the BB in a tightbore so it has to push the BB out to escape the inner barrel, which at the end of the day is what the gun is trying to do with all that air and is why air seal is so important for consistency, as the air will seek to escape from wherever it can. Now in terms of the benefits, a heavier BB will tend to have a more stable trajectory, has a bit more punch to get through foliage and will retain its kinetic energy for longer, though we're talking about fractions here. Will a .32 be all that different to a .28? Not really, but will a .48 perform differently to a .2? It most certainly will but I think often times people over-estimate the difference in BB performance. Wind will still carry a .48 off to Narnia and a leaf will still deflect a .48; trust me, speaking from experience there as a bolt action enjoyer who has watched many shots through my scope go their own way because of wind or leaves in the way. Really, punching through foliage requires volume of fire as opposed to weight of BB and I think "go heavy to punch through foliage" is a false economy. Even my .48s fired at 2.3J have issues punching through foliage and I usually try to post the shots through empty spaces in the bushes rather than going through any leaves; precision over power. Anyway, I feel like I've gone on enough about this. Thank you for coming to my TED talk on BB weight and the physics behind our hobby. In short: Heavier BBs fired at the same kinetic energy as lighter BBs have more momentum, which is why it hurts more getting shot by heavy BBs, even at 1J Faster projectiles have more air resistance acting on them Lighter projectiles are more affected by air resistance Therefore lighter BBs travelling faster both have more air resistance acting on them and are more affected by said air resistance This means that heavy BBs will travel further as they have more momentum, less air resistance acting on them and are less affected by that air resistance (assuming your hop can lift them) Joule creep will cause power to go up in gas guns with longer barrels as the BB has more room to accelerate Cylinder to barrel ratio affects power (and consistency) in AEGs. Heavier BBs can up the power in short barreled AEGs, but tend to drop the power in long barreled ones If you want the absolute maximum performance of your gun you generally want to be as close to the power limit as possible with the heaviest BB that your hop will lift I will still call you a dick if you run .48s in a pistol, especially if you're shooting up close

He very nearly put me off getting into Airsoft! I watched a few of his (edited) vids and thought what an egotistical,big headed wanker. Luckily I stopped watching,joined a club and found out that, thankfully,his type of player were not the norm. Regards

Ahhh well, that really would be a long long long post. Suffice to say he is a grade A1 cheating throbber of a racist right wing cunt. There are plenty of threads on here about him if you care to search.

Avoid Phoenix like the plague, awfully ran site with a pretty bad clientele. I am in Peterborough and I would go to either Lincolnshire Airsoft Club or Free Fire Zone near Bourne.