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My son and I did the deed today and bought our first guns. My son went for a Specna Arms SA-C19 Core Daniel Defence in Chaos Bronze. I had my heart set on the Specna Arms SA-F02 Flex but after handling my sons choice it didn’t feel right. After trying a few different guns I picked up a G&G Raider mark 1 in long barrel. I know it’s old tech but I understand why they’ve been so popular, it felt really nice and solid. As I was buying two guns, batteries, etc he offered me a discount on the raider and I couldn’t resist… They’ve been wrapped up for Christmas now otherwise I’d post some pictures.

Asked the guys at Taiwangun if spares are available, also asked if nozzles, piston heads and main springs are AEG spec.. If so, my plan for mass destruction of airsoft newbs and cheetas may proceed

Well, I'm going to agree with you more than you agree with me. I think they're solid performers that tend to work really well out of the box, and have great quality plastic. A decent dial hop is better than a sloppy rotary. If you can find one that's competitively priced, they're still worth a look, it was just shocking when the price went rocketing up while (e.g.) Jing Gong and CYMA stayed down, and Specna and Lancer Tactical started adding rotary hops, QC springs, mosfets and such. I hope they come back down in price again.

Good that you got to try a few out, the handling and general feel is probably as big a distinction between one AEG and another as much as raw spec differences. Nothing like father-and-son toys for Xmas day! Have a good one.

I just read about a way to make cheese and wine parties much more appealing. Apparently you do away with the cheese, and the guests!

Those protectors are very sacrificial, I've seen them cracked and therefore useless. Better off with the Red Dot Engineering ones off eBay

https://www.taiwangun.com/machine-gun-aeg/we23-s-rotary-minigun-style-replica-well Hideous, but has the potential to be the ultimate meme RIF. I'm thinking of buying one with my airsoft mate. https://www.taiwangun.com/drum-magazine-aeg/1200rd-magazine-or-the-we23-s-minigun-well Here's a breakdown video where some clever technical solutions are done.. All I need to figure out is how to fine tune the energy output (says it comes out at 0.78J, may bring it to the 0.9/0.95J region) and how to make the plastic sleeve/cam track sturdier.

Just had this pop up on my YT notifications, enjoy... (I did)

Just stopping by to say hi after about 10 years out of the scene due to living abroad. I used to play back in the very early days and saw the hobby grow from just a handful of sites and clubs (I used to run one too), saw the introduction of the UKARA (hi John :D) and then had to hang up my boots after moving abroad. Looking forward to getting going again and finding some cool sites and people to play with. It seems the scene has grown massively since back then and shops and site have sprung up everywhere. Sad to see some old favourites gone now too though. I will probably be picking your brains on all the current brands and gear, and hopefully I'll see some of you around.

Hello everyone, I have recently decided to come back to the beloved sport of airsoft. It has been 6 years since I last played. Unfortunately all my guns are destroyed from rust and bacetria build up of being kept in the basement for so long. 7 of us are returning back and feel as though we have lost all of the knowlege we had built up in the 7 years period we played. We need some advice please. 1. We are looking for a decent starter guns, preferably not more than £300. We don't know what brands are good at the moment on the market. Also of course all our UKAARA has expired and I am guessing that leaves us with two tones Unfortunately for now? 2. We have been looking at radios and thinking for buying the baofengs, however if I recall accurately they required some sort of programming procedure that seemed complicated to us at the time. 3. Also where is the best places to purchase MTP outfits. We would prefer the MTP type. Some advice for the clothing accessories would be greatly appreciated.

Introduction: The lost art of capacitors in airsoft The mythical powers of "capacitor banks" is not a new idea in airsoft, but the original sources and theories are lost in time, with only faint forum posts remain (all the links are dead in https://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/threads/capacitor-banks-revisited.8688/). In my pursuit of the ultimate trigger response in AEG, power supply remains a big unresolved issue because batteries (LiPo or NiMH) do not really give enough oomph for lack of a better word. We need something better, I thought, we need supercapacitors. And so I set out to rediscover the elementals of such dark magic from scratch (but based on the same principles). And I believe I have revived this magic which I will share my formula below. And dare I say, the surface of this dark art has not really been scratched, because the predecessors either did not use enough capacity (some examples were in the order of millifarads which is not nearly enough), and did not really use the correct type of supercaps (stacked coin cells hybrid types are not capable of high amps). And perhaps the right modules were not available until very recently, so this study will also represent a fresh look into this subject. If you want the bottom line: Why supercaps at all, isn't LiPo good enough? In short (excuse the pun), LiPo cannot provide sufficient peak current for the amp spikes during start of motor which is often in the region of 45-60 A. These micro-events of shorts (from the perspective of the battery) is also a main pathology of LiPo degrading and swelling over time. These spikes happen every shot in semi, and in the first shots in full-auto. This status quo practice of relying on abusing LiPo as sacrifice for performance does not sit well with me, because firstly it is electrically primitive, and secondly it is a safety risk in this toy gun industry that I think is unnecessary and should be done away with, at least as much as possible. The whole premise of using supercaps is to provide a voltage reservoir for surge power during these initial amp spikes. This is needed because these amp spike often exceed the capabilities of the battery (even LiPo) and the batteries drops voltage in response (for milliseconds) and unable to feed all the current needed for this initial spin-up of the motor. In theory, it can achieve the following: Surge power for much more responsive motor, resulting in snappier trigger response. Stabilised voltage supply for full-auto, resulting in better ROF. Protecting batteries from surge currents, prolonging their lifespan and minimise risks of LiPo fire. My evidence and theorisations are as follows. What is the actual energy requirement? To begin to figure out the solution, we need to ask, what is the minimum capacity to be effective? We can analyse these two graphs from airsoftlab.eu for theorycrafting. http://www.airsoftlab.eu/docs/experiments/motor_current/ To figure out the ballpark of energy levels we are talking about, I have picked two cases representative of a high stress build (with a 16 TPA motor) and a more optimal build (with a 28 TPA). The first graph is with 16 TPA motor, SP130, 13:1, to illustrate a typical suboptimal setup with a low torque motor paired with a high stress spring and gear ratio. The second graph is with a more comfortable 28 TPA motor with SP130 and 13:1 to show a more efficient setup. Just by eyeballing the graphs (and the blog), we can character these spikes (and the energy required to tame them) to be about 45A to 60A, for a duration of about 60ms. 16 TPA: 28 TPA: What do the numbers mean? There is a simple answer, and a more complex one. A simplistic way to translate this to farad (the capacity we need), using the 16 TPA setup as example, 60A for 60ms is 3.6 coulomb, which at 11.1V is about 0.324 F. For the 28 TPA example, this would be 2.7 coulomb, at 11.1 V this is 0.243 F. Therefore we can say our ballpark figure is about 0.25 F to 0.33 F as a minimum target. If we are aiming to create a unit that can work with worst case scenario, let's go with 0.33 F. However because supercaps discharge their voltage linearly (meaning their 11.1 V drops down to zero as it discharges over the 60 ms), we can think of it as sharing the workload with the battery in a 1:1 ratio (this is very simplified), meaning it is only doing half of the work while the batteries still need to supply the other half of the current (which is a big improvement already). Here is a prediction: In this predicted scenario, the amp spike seen by the battery should be reduced to less than half, because the supercaps will react faster to supply the spike, but as the supercap runs out of voltage, the battery will notice the difference in voltage and catch up, eventually supplying the full load in full-auto, but at a much improved stability. And as the trigger is released, the current stops, the supercaps are charged up again to battery voltage as the battery recovers from voltage sag. We can offload even more work from the batteries if we multiply the supercap capacity (say 3 times, to 1 F) so the they will perform in a 3:1 relationship i.e. 75% of the work are done by supercaps, which will stabilise the current even more. If we go bigger, say 1.66 F, the ratio will be 5:1, or 83% of work being done by supercaps. (The actual result will probably be better, the ratios e.g. 1:1 at 0.33 F are just conservative notional numbers I made up for ease of explanation. Supercaps are more responsive than batteries, and the overall lowered battery stress should further reduce overall voltage sag, so the battery should see less than 50% of the peak current, but I don't have the equipments to proof this hypothesis.) So let's say our notional baseline is 0.33 F, now we just need to implement this theory. Designing a supercaps unit Here is our goal: 1. Supercaps with total capacity of 0.33 F or more, bigger the better. 2. Voltage should be ok for airsoft usage. (Say a fully charged 11.1 V LiPo is around 12.6 V) 3. Overall size to be small enough to fit in a typical buffer tube, with room for cable management for most cases. Smaller the better. 4. (Bonus feature) built-in safety to drain residue voltage when unplugged. 5. (Bonus feature) LED to indicate presence of voltage. The obvious (and probably the only viable) strategy is to use 3 no. of 5-6 V supercaps in series to give us a 15-18 V headroom for the maximum 12.6 V we are expecting from a fully charged 11.1. The first problem is selection of supercaps. The second problem is designing the whole package that can physically fit inside the buffer tube. Long story short, here is my blueprint: (Just connect the supercaps in series, and then parallel with the batteries, I don't have a drawing) The Eaton supercaps I am using are the highest capacity that can still fit inside a typical buffer tube and wiring, and with one of the better ESR in its class, and can theoretically suffer 115 A of thermals over 60 ms, and tested to MIL-STD 202G for shock and vibration. They are wired (I'm using some fancy SPEC 44 16 awg wires) to a connector that goes between the AEG wire and battery wire, so it is completely plug and play, and removable for safety and for storage. It can in fact be stacked up (if you have multiple units) to give extra performance. For extra safety I have included a bleeder resistor to discharge the residue voltage in maximum 3 hours after it is unplugged. Also for safety (and aesthetics) I added an LED for visual indication of voltage presence. I am tempted to call it the PASTA 1000 (Pseudotectonic Advanced SupercapaciTor Array 1000 mF) but any suggestions welcome. Here is what it looks like in real life: Testing AEG: Specna E-19, completely stock (which has an X-ASR mosfet preinstalled.) Battery: 9.6 V NiMH, fully charged, measuring about 11.32 V when testing. This is just a simple A/B test to see if the supercaps work at all. I will simply alternate between plugging and unplugging the supercaps several times, then take measurements with groups of 6 to 7 shots, until the data are fairly consistent and/or a pattern can be identified. The groups are measured in Audacity and averaged and rounded to nearest millisecond. Also note I am not testing with any magazine inserted because A. that is not going to make massive difference either way and B. it is one less variable to worry about and C. if a BB goes off it is going to affect my measurements with sound. The results: Stock setup (without supercaps), group #1: Trigger response: from trigger action = 83 ms, from motor spin-up = [data missing] ROF: ~17.17 RPS With supercaps, group #1: Trigger response: from trigger action = 81 ms, from motor spin-up = 57 ms ROF: ~17.48 RPS (+1.8%) Stock #2: (I stopped measuring full-auto because it is getting too loud for the neighbours) Trigger response: from trigger action = 96 ms, from motor spin-up = 64 ms With supercaps #2: Trigger response: from trigger action = 74 ms (-23%), from motor spin-up = 62 ms (-3%) Stock #3: Trigger response: from trigger action = 90 ms (+22%), from motor spin-up = 69 ms (+11%) With supercaps #3: Trigger reponse from trigger action = 71 ms (-21%), from motor spin-up = 62 ms (-10%) Stock #4: Trigger response: from trigger action = 84 ms (+18%), from motor spin-up = 68 ms (+10%) With supercaps #4: Trigger response: from trigger action = 76 ms (-10%), from motor spin-up = 62 ms (-9%) Stock #5: Trigger response: from trigger action = 80 ms (+5%), from motor spin-up = 69 ms (+11%) With supercaps #5: Trigger response: from trigger action = 75 ms (-6%), from motor spin-up = 61 ms (-12%) Analysis of results: Definitely a noticeable audio difference in trigger response. The only way to describe it is it sounds more "instant" and there is less of the spin-up whine. I am not sure why the groups vary quite a bit (maybe battery and/or gearbox settling) but I think it is fair to say the supercaps are making a difference. If we average the data after group #3, with supercaps, the overall trigger response is about 14% improved, with the cycling time from motor spin-up is remarkably consistent at about 11% improved. The shorter lag time from trigger action to motor spin-up can be explained by the voltage stability provided by the supercaps. Overall I didn't know what to expect but I would say 14% improved trigger response is pretty good. It is definitely not a negligible difference, and definitely noticeable when compared side by side. But going by feel alone, it definitely feels a bit more snappy. ROF is probably improved a little bit, but more testing needed. The installation: This may be the only draw back. To actually fit the unit inside the buffer tube along with the X-ASR is a massive hassle, which I have to actually remove the original long heat shrink around the three wires to get them to flex, and re-crimp two out of three of the spade connectors to the X-ASR because they were damaged by too much bending. And even when the supercaps are in, it is still very stuck and you need to wrestle the wires to get the battery on and close the butt plate. Although I have done it with the stock fully collapsed and if I install it with the stock a few positions out, it will be easy. Once it's on, it works. But it is definitely not ideal if you have any in-line mosfet like mine. However if you use a proper mosfet inside the gearbox and just have wires in the buffer tube, it should fit very easily, potentially upping the supercaps to 5 F ones for even better trigger response. There is no noticeable sparks or heat or anything when install and in use. It simply lights up when you plug it in and it just works with zero drama. Here is how it looks like installed, with a fully collapsed stock, and without the stock: (it barely fits) To uninstall: If the battery is disconnected with just the supercaps plugged into the gun, the gun will barely able to do one shot and the second shot will be stopped by the mosfet because the voltage will have dropped too low. This is just as expected and fairly consistent with the maths. The LED: When you unplug everything, the LED stays on but slowly dims down over the course of about an hour (just as designed). This shows the draining resistor and the LED are all working as intended. I could also feel zero heat from the resistor, which is great and again matching expectation. The LED still visibly faintly glows even at as low as 2 V so it works perfectly for its purpose as a voltage indicator. The red LED is pretty to look at, although I might change the colour to something like blue or green, because the red can be mistaken as error from the mosfet. I might also move it to the "top" side of the "plug". Conclusion of experiment: The prove of concept is a success. Most importantly there is certainly a performance benefit (14% in my test). All the maths check out. The unit is fully functional and fully match the expectations. It literally is plug-and-play. The installation can be a hassle for wire management but that is purely down to physical space and should not be a problem if you are not using in-line mosfet. Conclusions and speculations More testing is needed with other setups, if you would like one for testing I can make you a copy for a fee. The tech tree can potentially branch into AKs or other platforms or even external compartments, but I don't have any of these for development. Here is a summary of what this device can do. The biggest feature for me is safety, because when the LiPo (or any battery) is shielded from stress they are much less likely to puff up over time and starting a fire. Another key thing is of course the performance. It works very well in my very first little experiment. Electrically the overall voltage floor and current ceiling is improved. Adding supercaps is a bit like transitioning from NiMH to LiPo, but on steroids. There is also where the drawbacks are, because a mosfet is probably a good idea for such power, and if you want to collapse the butt stock you will need a more advanced mosfet that sits inside the gearbox rather than the buffer tube, for cable management reasons. (If you copy what I did you will risk breaking some wires) In terms of use cases, it will benefit NiMH the most because the performance is suddenly brought closer to that of LiPo because the performance gap is effectively closed, making NiMH a viable option again. In fact it makes NiMH better than LiPo because NiMH is much safer. This is also a must if you are chasing the state-of-the-art trigger response or battery efficiency in any build. It will also help with cold weather performance. And the best thing is, this is essentially a "free upgrade" because it is an entirely new component added to the system, it does not replace or compete with any existing parts, and it doesn't need any complicated installation, it is literally plug-and-play. The only downside for now is with wire management inside the buffer tube to make room for it. I am not sure if there is enough space for guns other than an M4 but maybe you can find creative ways to fit it e.g. longer wires. This can potentially benefit rental fleets because it is the easiest upgrade possible with zero overhead on tech, plus it makes your NiMH or LiPo inventory much safer and longer lasting. The savings in overhead for battery management could be worth the investment. And when a gun dies you can very easily transplant it to the replacement gun. In theory, you can actually stack multiple units for extra performance (the only problem is finding the space to put them). Conclusion is, and I am probably biased, supercaps could be the next best thing in airsoft. If the space problem can be resolved. Please do comment if you spot any issues in the theory or in the blueprint. Thank you for reading.

Get the guns to a decent tech, while he/she/them/they/toaster is sorting them out, do your rental thing and away you go with regenerated old school cool. 👍😁

You know it makes sense

Update... just ordered the WE XM177. Decision 100% made based on spare mag availability.

While booing and jeering is encouraged at a pantomime, I discovered it's not encouraged at a nursery school nativity ☹️

Was a regular feature of my marriage... if I remember rightly it was never me laughing.

Yay! congrats! If you got the Raider at a decent price, then it is indeed a fine gun - all the sites using them as rentals can't be wrong. And the Specna looks a great choice - very handsome beasty! Enjoy! And ... do get overexcited and spend a fortune, and then post lots of pics and reviews

Some one is selling a FMA Fast SF Helmet for £75 https://airsoft-forums.uk/classifieds/item/43958-fma-fast-sf-helmet-black-ml/ when you can buy it new for £49 https://www.apextacgear.com/products/copy-of-fma-ballistic-aramid-thick-and-heavy-version-helmet-acu-tb1321-tb1322 That’s a bargain (for the seller not the buyer that is 😉 Update: Looks like you would need to pay a bit of Shipping but you can still get it slightly cheaper from AliExpress. All these different helmets are confusing. Is there a page that shows all the different variations and what the differences are?

goes well with the Belgian staple gun aka - P-90 😂 build quality seems very good , slightly different finish to the OG KWA , blowback /recoil is softer too but it’s very responsive and quick firing in semi . TDC hop unit is very good and it hops .30g nicely . Chrono was a steady 340fps on .20 with WE 2.0 gas. , KWA original mags don’t fit which is a shame as I was hoping to pick up a few shorty mags for it too , I’m sure Krytac or someone will release some though. Overall I’m very pleased , I think the price is decent in todays offerings too

Not sure about rhe mini gun, but the Kalashnikov SMG further down the page looks nice.

New pew day is always a good one, I see many more days like this in your future 'cos you know, everyone needs a sidearm because pistols are fun and then you'll need another pew for a backup and then what if you want a short pew for CQB or an SMG or maybe a shotgun (not even mentioned GBBRs yet either!) and then there's all the accessories ..... If you're anything like the rest of us you got an empty bank account for Xmas 😂 Oh and ref the above comment, a chrono is a worthwhile investment to keep an eye on your pews performance and an essential bit of kit if you are inclined to tinker.

They look like a nail-gun with a stock, but that only makes me want one more.

Eye of the beholder and all of that, but am I the only one to think that vectors just look, well, wrong?

Perfectly solid choices. The G&G Raiders have long been regarded as decent guns, although the price crept up while other brands added features. However, what actually matters isn't whether a gun has a rotary or dial hop, but how well it works, and the G&Gs tend to work very well indeed right out of the box. They do indeed feel great in the hand as well. One thing, the Specna will come with two springs: an M120 which is too spicy for UK use, and an M90 which will be fine (although perhaps a little lower than might be ideal for woodland). A decent shop will have fitted the M90 rather than sending you home with a hot gun. If Santa checks the box, he should find another spring in there, and a packet which (if I remember correctly) is marked M90. If the packet hasn't been opened, then the M90 is in the packet and the M120 is in the gun, and needs swapped out. If the packet is opened, that suggest the M90 is already in the gun.

Like I said "if you can find them at the right price". I saw a decent in-store deal at Extreme Airsoft a few months back on a batch of stock of a G&G Combat Machine (I can't remember which model specifically or the handguard length) they were selling for below £200 as one of their suppliers wanted to clear its surplus. I'm 100% with you saying they're not a competitively priced budget vendor any more when you can buy RIFs with more features at the same price point from G&G's competitors now.

Got an initial review for us @JimFromHorsham? I see you nabbed one in the 'What have you bought?' thread. My wallet is fast reaching the event-horizon of a GBBR purchase. MWS is my obvious choice, but these are an interesting left-field option and the 60rd mags are a big plus.

Can you elaborate on this standard IR measurements. What you mean by using DC in 2 stages? In any case, the better chargers does show/measure the IR value. My standard method of measuring the IR value was to use 1Ohm load and check the voltage drop. The values displayed by my charger where roughly the same than the ones I got this way. I did explain that difference in the IR on the "cheap IR meter" page. What I did not specifically mention, though, is that when I use "IR" term, I mean "IR at some specific conditions". Like, when the battery is fully charged, when the load is 1 Ohm, when it is kept under load for 1s, when it is new, etc. Changing any of this, changes the IR (although not always in significant way). I might have explained that more clearly. My "C rating" post was in the "opinions" section. Probably that is why I was so short and not well described. Even I couldn't figure out what exact method I used to produce this table, which is bad. But my other page "Batteries review" describes this a little bit better. Anyways, the table has "Nominal Current", which means the current the C rating is allowing (I do understand this term might not be the best, but this is how I called it). So the Rhino battery is 2.2Ah and has 50C so the "nominal current" was assumed to be 110A. Of course measuring anything at that high current isn't easy so I did the IR measurements at lower currents but I expect the IR to only grow at higher currents, not drop, so this is still the "best case scenario". I also did not see a big variance in the IR (as the ratio of Vdrop and current) when the current was doubled for a given battery. So the calculations, for the sake of simplicity, are assuming the IR is similar for any current up to the "nominal current as specified by C rating". So, I calculated the IR by measuring Vdrop at say, 10A or 20A and then used that value to extrapolate the Vdrop that would happen if the battery was loaded with the "nominal" (again, as allowed by C rating) current. This was a quick test just to show that C-rating is just arbitrary and one can't, contrary to common myth, use this value to reason about the battery behaviour under load. The voltage the battery has under load is an important factor for me. So saying a battery is OK to be used with currents of 40C while at this current it drops its voltage by at least 50% is inappropriate in my opinion and that was all I wanted to show in this short article. Something went wrong with this paragraph as I can't understand the meaning of that. In any case, I can modulate how much current my load takes and obviously the bigger the current, the bigger the Vdrop. But some batteries will drop more voltage at the same current, some will drop more, depending on their IR. Yes, that was the exact conclusion of my article there - C rating does not reflect the current supply ability of the cells. IR is much better at that. But it is also not a constant value in the function of the load or time. The manufacturers could come up with some value that reflects the situation a little bit better, like "how much current can I roughly take from this battery for a period of 1s so that the voltage does not drop more than 10% at full capacity" or something like that. But nothing beats proper graphs showing the situation at different conditions. That is completely true. But writing such an article requires not only much more work but also usually involvement of some other people, like reviewers. Like, it's often hard to asses what is obvious and what is not, if you are the one who writes the article. Reviewer may easily spot that, though. That being said, this "C-rating" article was in the "opinions" section, the articles in "experiments" section are a little bit better at that. You know, I was not aiming at writing a scientific paper grade article and my time and resources where limited. I did do multiple runs and choose the most common/typical one for each configuration. To me, this change of current with different springs was expected - the more stiff spring creates higher resistance so the current must be bigger to start the motor. If you disconnect the motor from the gearbox and let it run freely, the "inrush" current is also much smaller. Now, I guess, the problem is again in the usage of "inrush current" term. My measuring equipment has a limited resolution/bandwidth so the actual, theoretical current peak may be the same for each setup (and it lasts some fractions of millisecond), but I can't measure that. Instead I can in practice see just the "average" current over some short periods and this is what I see on the scope. This is what I am in fact more interested in - how much current the motor takes in the first few tens of milliseconds after starting but before settling on a max speed. That takes many revolutions of the motor and this obviously is influenced by the resistance the gearbox and the spring gives. I also read many scientific papers. Of different quality. Creating a very good quality one is just *tons* of work. I did not aim at that. My aim was to do some measurements and describe them so that they are not lost. This was, in my eyes, much more than most people in airsoft do and that is why there are so many myths here. But I didn't care too much about someone being able to reproduce my experiment but I did want to describe my experiments properly and I did not succeed fully. Even if scientific method should aim for that, this is often not met in the officially published scientific papers so I feel excused for my results published on some random website All in all, the most important conclusion from the perspective of the original discussion here is that the trigger response and RoF in classic airsoft gun (without precocking, etc) depends highly on the capabilities of the battery. The biggest struggle for the battery is at the spinup of the motor as the current is very high and this may make the battery drop a lot of voltage. The smaller the voltage, the slower the motor reaches full speed and thus the worse trigger response. The max speed will also vary between batteries because the speed depends on the voltage and this depends on the voltage drop caused by the current. I can see how the supercapacitor could help the battery at the motor spinup time, when the current draw is the highest, providing the ESR of the capacitor is low enough for the current to be taken from the capacitor and not the battery itself in large portion. As was said here several times, this would have the biggest impact with NiMH batteries, and I expect it to be much smaller with beefy LiPO. I someone prefers using NiMH battery, such an approach with capacitors may give you some noticeable benefits. Would that help with LiPO? That would have to be checked. It is possible, though, especially with cheaper ones. Problem is - space. The batteries tend to be able to provide more current if they are physically bigger. So by the time you add the size of those caps to the size of the battery, you might get similar or better results by just switching to some bigger battery. Depending on the cost of the caps, it might also be cheaper. The caps, on the other hand, could be reused after switching the battery in very long games and may have a bigger lifetime. All in all, it would be good to measure if there is a noticable difference when using caps with LiPO batteries.

Every optic I have+ torch has a little perspex disc (ebay) attached to the front via a 3d printed collar. They are sacrificial - had the ones on a torch shot out twice, and originally one of those flip up protectors smashed to pieces, but they did their job. All in CQB mind....

They're definitely worth a purchase. They're less expensive to replace than your optic and those optics aren't designed with repairs/spare parts in mind.

Lol, just got told off, laughing in bed is apparently frowned upon in my house🤣

Those are the ones. I second Rostock. We're both fans of them, but a bit of something sticky on the reflex site models doesn't go amiss. The round ones for scopes are fine installed dry.

as long as it covers the front of your optic any would do, that's the same style I use, thinking about locktite ing the hinge tho as it either falls forward or folds back during gameplay (depending which way I attach it).

The VFC G3 is awesome, but perhaps it should be discounted for just being absolutely mahoosive and therefore might not always get the nod for a game I'd maybe not choose an XM177 because mounting optics might be a bit top-heavy on a fixed handle, but dang it they look cool. So ... the Scar... ? I fired an HPA'd WE Scar at a recent skirmish and was impressed. It doesn't have the 'wow' factor of the G3 (but then again, what does, except other silly-big FAL's etc) but it makes an awful lot of sense as a platform.

Maybe you could introduce yourself?

You could list the material kit on eBay, seen plmety of bundles or single items. Viper kit does alright on there. Just fill the item title and description with as many relevant key words as you like. Just mind out for eBay fees when you price things up. If you qent the ebay route I'd recommend putting all the Woodland stuff in one group, mtp in another and a final one for the black pouch/other bits. Happy selling. Or if you can wait a bit longer into 2024, Red Alert in Berkshire usually run quarterly bootfairs, or you have the Midlands airsoft fair - and I'm sure there's plenty of other sites that hold bootfairs out there. They'd potentially easier to sell the RIFs at.

That thing looks incredibly fun to drive so I take that as compliment

I can barely keep one wife happy, let alone six! 😮

Come on, m8, play the game, m8, make me an offer, m8, you know how it's played, m8.

They've long since priced themselves out of the budget end of the market, and I'm not sure why I'd want to look at them in the £200-300 range when EDGE 2.0s and Double Eagle M9XX exist.

Destroyed is a pretty strong word. Unless a gun has been snapped into several pieces i would never consider them unsalvageable. It would be worth looking for a Tech near you to fix the guns. That won't run fowl of the VCRA as you already own them, it should be cheaper than having to rent then buy new guns and if you don't get back into airsoft you have sellable guns.

Typical airsoft player: Semi-conductor-seriously though: supercapacitors + NiMH? Seems a bit like...

I'm a big fan of my Double Eagle M906C... Added a used PTS EPS-S stock for more battery space... And after a recent paint job... Metal receiver and handguard, it's very nicely made and great value for money. The provided spring won't last long, but the quick change mechanism is super easy to use.

Not really bought, more got I sent in my LeatherMan tool that I purchased back in ‘99 whilst visiting Singapore to the supporting retailer for warranty assistance I was hoping for a sharpen and tighten Instead, they “retired” it and replaced it with the current replacement model Well chuffed! I do carry it on my loadout if that counts

Pretty sure it's the shitty bandwidth that scares them off.

Cheapo trick - find an old AOL CD (yes, it must be AOL) and tie it with a bit of string to dangle off something close to the pond, the moving reflections will scare animals off.