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Showing content with the highest reputation on 15/09/23 in all areas

  1. Lozart
    3 points
  2. Sewdhull
    Precocking is useful in semi because instead of the trigger starting the compression on the spring, it releases and already tensioned spring. Saves you some milliseconds. Downside is that your gearbox gubbins are under load all the time which will increase wear. You're likely to use more current as you are starting the motor under load to release the sector gear. Whether that matters is a matter for you. Active braking is designed to stop the gearbox quickly, so it doesn't over run and cycle or part cycle an extra shot, or I would guess stop the action so that precocking is cocked in the right place. I think the trigger response becomes moot if you're running on 11.1v as things are pretty quick already. Probably an order of magnitude better than your reaction time. 20rps is 50ms a shot, but a shot on semi probs ads 25ms to that for the motor to wind up.
    3 points
  3. Rogerborg
    Oh, herrrro. Although you do need to go plastic bodied, and Luke at Negative bought up all the Galaxies in the world a while back. Anyone know if there are plastic bodied MP5Ks in stock anywhere?
    2 points
  4. Dan Robinson
    Now, really, was there any need for that? LOL. I won't even ask how you had that link so easily to hand.
    2 points
  5. Sewdhull
    I apologise if this is TMI but lithium batteries are clearly confusing. All lithium rechargables are lithium ion. Marketing confuses things. Cylindrical cells are called lithium ion. Pouch cells lipos. Chemistry is very similar, pouch cells have a paste, cylindricals have a liquid. Pouch cells puff, cylindricals vent and are less likely to be damaged when it happens. Storage charges are useful, but so long as the cell isn't full or empty (30% SOC either way is good) all should be well. This also applies to cylindrical cells, I can't imagine that titan think differently. This voltage is 3.7v for lithium's that aren't life cells. Storing any lithium battery empty is really bad for it's longevity and safety. Titan batteries have the same chemistry as other batteries. They are still damaged by over or under charge and high discharge currents and catch fire. Metal cells are resilient and difficult to damage. Lithium iron phosphate (life) are the only resilient and safe lithium battery, tolerant to overcharge and need to reach 270C to make fire. They hold less charge but have a very long life. I have some that are 10 next year. 3S batteries are 9.9v. If you look after lipos (pouch cells) they will last a reasonable amount of time, but they are fragile. Cylindrical cells are physically robust, won't get stuck in a gun, but other wise have the same issues as pouch cells. Other than life cells all the others suffer thermal runaway at pretty low temps so if they get hot (from 80C to 130C), they get hotter until fire. Careful charging and use can avoid the cells getting hot.
    2 points
  6. Enid_Puceflange
    His grammar and spelling is as boneyard as the rif!
    2 points
  7. Dan Robinson

    Spam and Con

    Rogerborg and one other reacted to Dan Robinson for a topic

    Keeps them coming out of the God damn walls.
    2 points
  8. Lozart

    Ammo pouch

    Cannonfodder and one other reacted to Lozart for a topic

    Obligatory meme response:
    2 points
  9. Dan Robinson
    Why do people always get their feet in the pictures? I hate feet.
    2 points
  10. Dan Robinson

    Ammo pouch

    The_Lord_Poncho and one other reacted to Dan Robinson for a topic

    I prefer this version:
    2 points
  11. Lozart

    DOH! #2

    Shamal and one other reacted to Lozart for a topic

    Pretty sure those are a slightly different set of balls altogether...
    2 points
  12. RostokMcSpoons

    DOH! #2

    TheFull9 reacted to RostokMcSpoons for a topic

    Me and Dan at Spec Ops...
    1 point
  13. gavinkempsell
    My go to gnu in this... https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/cyber-gun-fn-scar-aeg?pv=16775 Bought it as a two tone before my UKARA kicked in, it's light & been very reliable, uses M4 mags & is my favourite pew to run about with. I have a metal & polymer version that feels twice as heavy but haven't skirmished it yet.
    1 point
  14. gavinkempsell

    DOH! #2

    Rogerborg reacted to gavinkempsell for a topic

    a roomba???
    1 point
  15. Duff Beer
    I’ve got a 9.9v LiFe in mine. Gives a bit more pace than a 7.4v LiPo, but doesn’t stress anything like a 11.1v LiPo I can thoroughly recommend a Warhead motor as a first upgrade though. The standard ICS motor is slow and thirsty, whereas the Warhead motors give snappier trigger response and don’t drain the battery too much. I’ve done 4000 rounds on a 1000mah battery and not had any issues, and suspect I could probably have squeezed another 1500 out of it
    1 point
  16. Sewdhull
    Active braking dissipates the energy in the moving parts into the motor as heat so you may notice that. If you do have a brushless motor which is nice for lots of reasons, active braking may be incompatible with with your trigger unit. For active braking to happen the motor gets shorted, which can't happen if the brushless motor has no power as it needs power to turn on the motors MOSFETs, assuming it has them in place for motor shorting.
    1 point
  17. Sewdhull
    I have a couple of g36s. The src one a g36c is light, it has a skeletal folding stock. Seems light compared to many other guns I've held. I imagine other short 36s are similar.
    1 point
  18. Jaylordofwaargh
    I couldn't help it, had to have a punt at it. Thought the £40 I offered was very reasonable....
    1 point
  19. Adolf Hamster
    In principle any active braking will cause additional strain on the motor, it ends up a tradeoff between how long you expect your pew to last before needing new contacts and the in game performance. Ofc with brushless you dont have to worry about contacts so might as well max out. In real use i've only met one pew where contact degradation was a real thing and that was a secondhand purchase. Yes motor heat comes hand in hand with the motor load mentioned above. Imo if it's not so bad that you can't hold the grip then it's fine. The key is the battery, more load on the motor means more load on the battery but if it's well rated for the current you're drawing then crack on. Ultimately it boils down to your personal experience, but if the gearbox is in good order (ie shimming etc not putting undue load on the gb) then the choice of motor/battery/precocking is a see-saw of how much snappyness you want against how often you want to change brushes (where applicable) or charge batteries or hold off until the grip cools a tad.
    1 point
  20. RostokMcSpoons
    I just let my daughter's boyfriend have a blast with my TM AUG High Cycle. He loved it 😋. Compact, reasonably light, and rear-biased, as you say. Very good 👍
    1 point
  21. Hatchet
    No love for the G36? Picked up a TM one (non-recoil) recently, and it's ridiculously light, especially if you ditch the unnecessary rails/handstop (which is inexplicably made of pot metal). Okay, marginally heavier than the MP5K, but probably more capable in the field.
    1 point
  22. RostokMcSpoons
    I was thinking of this one... https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/cyma-cm-515-m4a1-carbine-w-keymod-handguard 1.88kg according to the specs
    1 point
  23. Adolf Hamster
    ftfy not sure on the actual weight, but the asg evo's are mean little gats in stock form, definitely worthy of consideration.
    1 point
  24. Gunboat Diplomat
    I wonder if it's worth considering a bullpup? The rear weight bias that you can tuck under your arm rather than having out in front might reduce the stress on your shoulder.
    1 point
  25. Adolf Hamster
    to be somewhat generic as i don't know the exact programming sequence of the jefftron: if you're going to use precocking, then set active brake to on, otherwise off will hopefully prevent cycling issues from the gb stopping too quickly, precocking off+no ab=standard aeg cycling to set precocking, a quick and somewhat easy way is to pull the upper reciever (or whatever you need to do to be able to see the back end of the gearbox whilst running) and do the following: 1. set precocking level to the minimum value 2. increment the precocking value by [appropriate feeling figure] 3. repeat step 2 until: -you feel the response on semi is adequate for your needs -the piston seems to reliably stop very near the end of travel -you get a double fire, in which case decrement until it doesn't 4. profit in terms of why to expend the effort, precocking is basically free "trigger response" ie it will make the gun "feel" snappy and responsive without it needing to have the brrrrrrt levels that typically come with a high rps build, for example an 18rps build (ie moderate in auto) with a brushless motor and copious precocking can feel in semi auto as snappy as you could realistically want a pew to be, but without the stripped pistons and other associated headaches a traditional high rof build entails. in terms of downsides, precocking means that especially if you play in semi your spring will always be left in a "cocked" state, some mosfets (idk if the jefftron is one of them) can alleviate this by holding the trigger to de-cock the gun, meaning that the spring shouldnt lose power during storage. in-game however there's no real downside to precocking as long as your motor is man enough to cold-start when there's tension on the spring (if it isn't, that's gods way of telling you to get a better motor because even without precocking it could stall after a burst of auto).
    1 point
  26. Fatboy40
    Another good option, but they're not cheap, is an ASG Scorpion Evo as they're compact and light.
    1 point
  27. Krisz

    Lightweight AEG Recommendations

    AGR reacted to Krisz for a topic

    Some kind of M4 (either stubby or medium sized) which has polymer upper and lower receiver would suit you the best (probably). Like some cheap specna for example around 100 quid. Cyma uses pot metal basically on every gun (except P90) so they aren't gonna be light. I don't think any kind of AK is gonna be sub 2kg. If you fancy something different you could have a look at PCC's. ARP9 is a lovely gun out of box. You could check SMG's as well. MP5K or MP5K PDW (Marui) are featherweight. Just bear in mind that the trigger is shit on a vanilla V3 gearbox without mosfet.
    1 point
  28. Adolf Hamster
    sounds like a polymer bodied m4 would be the logical choice, i'm tempted to say arp9 would suit quite well. although i must admit outside of the weight requirement or an absolute desire for dat blued steel an e&l provides the cm045 is a damn fine choice of gat.
    1 point
  29. RostokMcSpoons
    Just weighed my Double Eagle M904G, which feels light compared to my other gats, with a red dot, a foregrip and a mag it tips the scales at 2.3kg To get below that I think one of the cheaper Cyma M4's might do the trick. Not sure which model number I handled at Spec Ops but a young kid had one, and he was happy with it. It felt quite a bit more fragile than the DE does but it was definitely 'fly weight' I think Patrolbase has one on their front page at the moment. I'd still recommend the DE (of course!)
    1 point
  30. JimFromHorsham
    In the most part it’s too much spring tension or preload behind the hammer , the valve pushes the hammer back but there is still too much tension in the spring .
    1 point
  31. RostokMcSpoons
    Well, I picked DMR as being representative of a larger gun, maybe I should have said 'battle rifle' but that's longer to type. Doesn't look like I've saved any typing now, does it 🥺🥴
    1 point
  32. Sewdhull
    It will be the voltage monitoring shutting off the gun that's the issue. Nominal cell voltage for life is 3.2v Vs 3.6 for most others. It's worth trying it with a life I think. The cutout for a lipo will be 3v. Life can go lower but the discharge curve is pretty flat. It depends how sensitive the system is to voltage sag under load.
    1 point
  33. Herrgh

    This advert is COMPLETED!

    • For sale
    • Used

    For sale: a positively ancient (+10 years) Micro T1 replica with a LaRue riser/QD mount. I hate this thing. It has no auto-off, so it will EAT batteries unless you're smart enough to remember to switch it off. It also only takes these stupid little button batteries (CR1632) that are super uncommon and NOT available from your local shop, so bear that in mind this thing is a faff to run. Other than that, it's alright. It still works, with both a red and green dot, and with 5 brightness settings for each. Also has the Aimpoint trades on the top. Despite the forum posting my pictures upside down, this will be delivered the correct way up. COST = £15 + £3.29 P&P POSTAGE = Royal Mail Tracked 48 PAYMENT = Bank Transfer or PayPal (Friends & Family OR Goods & Services are fine, but note that any fees are payable by you.)

    £18.29

    - GB

    1 point
  34. RostokMcSpoons
    Well exactly, it seems a bit odd that that something that falls neatly between 7.4v and 11.1v should not work, as both are supported by the Falcon unit (though I do remember someone having a problem with one or the other, a while back). I can understand the Nimh perhaps, but surely the voltage detection on a LiFe battery is the same as on LiPo?
    1 point
  35. Lozart
    Good points all but don't assume that the gearbox has any sort of quality grease unless you've cleaned it out and redone it yourself. My guns have lithium grease on the gears, but they mostly came with some kind of amalgam of earwax and glue that Chinese manufacturers call grease.
    1 point
  36. Lozart
    I think that this is the critical bit most people miss. The horror stories about LiPos mostly come from the RC scene where there are much bigger batteries and a higher chance of kinetic disassembly. The more likely culprit in airsoft is either user error whereby the user charges them on a cheap POS charger or user error where they just wilfully mistreat them. Sounds like bullshit but if they have set up any sort of voltage level checking in their mosfet they might just refuse to work with anything of too high/low a voltage. My G&G SR25 doesn't like 7.4v LiPos and beeps like mad before deciding not to play. Haven't tried it with a LiFe yet but just an example for you.
    1 point
  37. Dan Robinson
    I have this one currently on my G36, but it was perfect on my M904G. A little cheaper too. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08NWZ4MPD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
    1 point
  38. Dan Robinson

    DOH! #2

    Shamal reacted to Dan Robinson for a topic

    This is why i keep bottles, so when pouches are better value, I can transfer them in the relative safety of my kitchen. At least the Roomba can go around later looking for any remaining evidence.
    1 point
  39. Sewdhull

    Spring strengths...

    gavinkempsell reacted to Sewdhull for a topic

    Using the springs to shoot the gun will have a small effect on the spring constant, but in Airsoft there are alot of cycles and the spring will get weaker. Airsoft cycles are quite deep and as others have said quality matters. Deeper cycles will have a greater effect than less deep ones. Leaving it compressed will have large effect by comparison due to the permanent squish on it. Potentially short stroking could extend its life, but I've always looked at springs as consumables. Whilst other springs seem to have actual manufacturing specs, Airsoft springs don't seem to have even the basic info.
    1 point
  40. Jaylordofwaargh
    These are £100 new bud, this is a state that is almost boneyard, will ya take £40? These are £100 new bud, this is a state that is almost boneyard, will ya take £40?
    1 point
  41. C-Diddy

    THE TM MWS thread

    SSPKali reacted to C-Diddy for a topic

    @SSPKali I posted this a while back when curiosity about red v green gas got the better of me I generally run the Zero One gas or ASG Ultrair as standard, but am tempted to get a couple of cans of Vorsk. As an aside, these were results from the standard TM mag. With the Guns Modify P-mags, FPS is higher by 5-15 FPS.
    1 point
  42. JinxDuh
    They was only £100 when they was new... Sure, they're out of stock but given the state of it and it being galaxy I can't imagine that it's genuinely worth £100 or am I missing something?
    1 point
  43. DanBow

    Gun picture thread

    Nick G reacted to DanBow for a topic

    Nothing flash or fancy but it is my first. 😍
    1 point
  44. Shamal
    1 point
  45. Wavey_Gravey
    Yes. Common problems with it catching consistently, many people have had the issue…you must be lucky 🙂
    1 point
  46. gavinkempsell

    Ammo pouch

    AGR reacted to gavinkempsell for a topic

    Africa... we're all teenagers at heart.
    1 point
  47. Shamal

    DOH! #2

    Dan Robinson reacted to Shamal for a topic

    Well the dodgy bearings on our washing machine turned out to be a dozen .28's. If I had used bios she would have been non the wiser😂
    1 point
  48. emilianoksa
    Silicone oil for O rings and plastic on plastic or plastic on metal slides and frames. Teflon grease or oil for metal on metal. I use Superlube Synthetic with PTFE to grease slide and rails. If it migrates it will not damage or weaken plastic parts. Dry cloth or cotton buds for muck, but when the gun gets very dirty you can use Isopropyl 99% alcohol, which shifts grease and crud effectively and evaporates completely leaving no residue or smell. Isopropyl alcohol is also the go to for inner barrels. It's the only thing you should put down an inner barrel, apart from a dry piece of cloth or tissue to pull out the dirt.
    1 point
  49. PureSilver

    This advert is COMPLETED!

    • For sale
    • As new

    For sale is a non-rail SIG Sauer P226. It is built on the newer Tokyo Marui P226 E2 variant with improved FCG and magazine, into a fully-trademarked CNC aluminium PGC kit. The PGC kit has been out of production for more than a decade at this point; non-rail P226s currently on the market are either more than $1,250 - usually not including the donor - or significantly lower quality than the billet-CNC PGC. The gun is fitted with a full set of upgrades, including: Complete set of Guarder steel controls (takedown lever, trigger, decocking lever, slide catch, hammer, magazine release) Guarder steel sights Complete set of Guarder steel FCG (hammer sear, valve knocker and knocker lock) Guarder steel recoil spring guide and 150% recoil spring Stainless steel Lambda One 6.01x95mm inner barrel and Maple Leaf 60-degree hop-up bucking UAC lightweight blowback unit Prime faux firing pin assembly Genuine Hogue rubber finger-groove wraparound grip, PGC grip screw inserts and Guarder steel grip screws It is accompanied by some spares and accessories: Prime threaded outer barrel (14mm CCW) A complete set of spare springs from MAG, plus a spare Guarder front sight clip The original (aluminium) PGC rear sight The original PGC brass adapter set, I believe for building the kit with either E2 grips and/or on a P226R base Not included, but available for sale separately, are the Guarder AAC Spider suppressor, Surefire Nitrolon P114C weaponlight with custom LumensFactory LED conversion, and a vintage Safariland 6xxx-series (I believe a 6004-776) suede-lined Kydex holster to suit the weapon and light This gun was professionally assembled by Pro Airsoft Supplies, and professionally tuned by Wizard Airsoft Customs. It is in full working order - in fact, it is the smoothest-running pistol I've ever owned, with an amazing slide-frame fit that just glides. The recoil is very, very snappy and the gun is very efficient; in the video (below) it fires more than 60rds in rapid fire. The gun was built, and then has been in its box for its entire life - it has never been skirmished, and is in mint condition with only minor marks from being put into the suede-lined Safariland. Unless you are prepared to fork over $1,500+ for a steel P226 from a boutique Taiwanese builder, this is the best non-rail P226 on sale. For more information on the pistol, or for more pictures, please don't hesitate to get in touch. Shipping is available, including internationally, at the buyer's cost.

    £600

    London - GB

    1 point
  50. SSPKali
    Nah, wife likes it too as I was a bike mechanic when we first met so it reminds her of when I was slim and handsome 😂
    1 point
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