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We'll know it's bad if the DFS sale ends! 😂

1. Heavier BBs tend to give better range AND accuracy. However, AEGs have a thing called cylinder to barrel ratio which I honestly don't understand all the intricacies on (the airsoft teching hole goes deep...), but what it basically means is that most AEGs have a sweet spot for BB weight at certain powers and it's different for every set up; helpful, I know. At 1.1J, running a .48 probably won't give a huge boost in performance and that's assuming the hop up can even lift it, but it will provide a huge boost in running costs as a bag of 1000x .48g BBs is between £25 - 30, where a bag of 3000x .32g BBs is between £18 - 20; triple the ammo, about 33% cheaper. Joules, at the end of the day are a measure of kinetic energy. I'm going to dive into poorly explained science here because the last time I studied physics or mechanics was when I was 18 and doing my A-levels. When a BB is fired, it has a certain amount of kinetic energy going in the direction of (hopefully) enemy players and is being slowed down by air resistance, pulled downwards by gravity and also affected by things like wind direction, rain, pesky leaves getting in the way etc. The heavier the projectile, the slower it will leave the barrel (assuming the same kinetic energy), however it will also take longer to decelerate as the mass of the projectile requires more resistance to lower its momentum. A good example is imagine throwing a cricket ball with a certain amount of kinetic energy and think how far it will go compared to a balloon thrown with the same amount of kinetic energy. As I said, I haven't studied it in years and I'm awful at explaining it (I was more into statistics than mechanics). There are plenty of sources online that will explain kinetic energy, momentum, deceleration and all that lovely physics stuff better than I can. 2. Joules are far better than FPS for testing power. I run gas guns and I could probably get my m700 firing at 350fps on a .2 (so, no MED), but then being around 2.3J on a .48 thanks to a wonder called joule creep that is prevalent in gas platforms which would be unsafe to fire up close. (it's not a wonder, I hate it and am constantly wrestling with it 🤣) 2.1. You could, though if you're looking to go the DMR route it will cost more than £250 to build a decent one and require you to open up the gearbox, which I do NOT advise for a new player; hell, I've been doing this for years and I still don't do gearboxes. I just don't get them, no matter how many times I try. To build a DMR, you'll likely need a metal-toothed piston, high torque motor and a stronger spring at the very least, but you'll likely want more things like a full cylinder (most stock ones are ported which means you get lower air volumes which is not what you want for a DMR), MOSFET and better gears. Also, you start wrestling with MEDs as soon as you go over 1.14J, which means you can't shoot at anyone who is within a certain distance of you, whether it's 20 or 30m (the most common MEDs. 30m is the most common though) which means you would really need some sort of pistol or secondary to go alongside it. Some sites enforce that you must have a pistol or secondary if you want to run anything with an MED; my local site very much does. However, as an added piece of advice, if you're running at 1.88J, you want to be using far heavier than a .28g BB. For me, I'd be looking to run .4s at least in a 1.88J build, preferably heavier if the hop up would lift it without dropping the power too much. 3. Stock FPS is more than sufficient. 340fps on a .2 means it will be pretty close to 1.1J and is exactly where mine is shooting at the moment (it's about 1.07J). Power does impact range and accuracy, but hop up and barrel setup impacts it far more. Also, not all sites have the same DMR rules, so if you set it up for 1.88J, you wouldn't be able to use it at other sites; my local site for example has DMRs at 1.64J and some sites go as far as 1.48J as a limit for DMRs. Therefore, if you want to do a DMR build, my advice would be do it with something with a quick change spring system so that you can adjust the power fairly easily without having to open the whole gearbox, which you don't want to be doing with an m14 at least because they're fiddly to get apart. I can go on at length about the pros and cons of building a DMR, but the TL:DR is that I generally don't think it's worth it because bolt actions are better at it. Aaaaaand, it appears I've built another wall, though it is big and beautiful... 😂

Ahoy, welcome, and no. No, no, and no. Airsoft uses 6mm plastic BBs in the 0.2 - 0.5g range, at about 1.1J auto, up to 2.5J for bolt actions. Please, please don't show up to show off some "home defence" gear that's legally spurious. Airsoft sniping is fun, but we can all put a crosshair on a target and pull a trigger. After that, it comes down to how well your toy gun is shooting, and the vagaries of weather and airsoft physics. You can forget holdover at airsoft ranges - the way airsoft hop works means that your BB will go pretty much straight, then plummet sharply. I don't mean to come across too harshly, just to be clear that in airsoft most of your shots are going to miss, and that you're there to take hits in good cheer, not to make them. If you come with that attitude, you'll be welcome anywhere and you're likely to find folk who are happy to help and support you. People have played airsoft in wheelchairs, or motorised 4x4 or 6x6 mini-tanks. Whether you can compete is going to be entirely dependent on your local site. Indoor CQB is a good shout, you can have a great time playing a slow walking game and covering choke points, and playing with a light SMG/PDW or pistol is viable. In woodland, you'll find a much wider variety of sites. Some of them are flat, dry and compact with loads of cover, some of them involve lonnnng slogs through swamps to engage and respawn. So please don't be disillusioned if you start out playing at one of the latter sites - other alternatives are available. Give it a try, you'll find that airsofters are a very welcoming bunch. Just ask someone about their guns and see if you can get us to shut up.

Long range airsoft! My favourite topic! Apologies in advance for wall o'text... I will start by saying that getting a bolt action as a first gun is generally a bad idea. It can work out and it did for me way back when I started with my Warrior L96 (now known as Well), but it's a very different style of playing. That said, if you have already played once and liked going off by yourself and taking long shots, I wouldn't immediately rule it out or at least not entirely. £250 is a pretty tight budget, but not impossible to work with, no matter how many people say "sniping is expensive". If it were me, I would go one of two routes: Cyma m14: They're £150 and don't need any gearbox modifications out of the box. Spend £30 on a ZCI 499mm stainless steel barrel, £10 on a Maple Leaf macaron hop rubber (60 or 70 degree is my preference) and £5 on a Maple Leaf omega nub and that's just shy of £200; spend the other £50 on more mags, or just run the high cap it comes with and use the £50 elsewhere, like on a scope and scope mount. I ran mine like this on .32g BBs for a long, long time and people with poorly tuned bolt action rifles (lots of players...) were having a tough time as I could effectively counter-snipe them despite only being 1J. I used it on semi-auto most of the time, but retained the use of full auto if I needed it and had no MED so I could also engage other players up close. In my opinion, if you're looking at getting into sniping, this is what I'd do first until you've learned the game a bit more and are better at judging distance, how environmental factors will affect BB trajectory etc. Also, it'll make a fantastic backup rifle for if you do get into sniping later down the line and you're having issues with your bolt action. Cyma cm701B / JG BAR-10: They're £120ish and I would run it at stock power until it eventually breaks (or you save up the considerable amount needed to upgrade the power). Spend about £50 on a Laylax 430mm stainless steel tightbore or a Maple Leaf Crazy Jet barrel, £50 on the Action Army hop up unit, £10 on a Maple Leaf autobot rubber (70+ degree) and £5 on a Maple Leaf omega nub. That's about £235, so not much room for much else and you will probably want an extra mag or two (they're £10 each) and you almost certainly want a scope. As a bolt action at 420fps (about 1.6J), you'll have an MED to contend with and it won't perform as well as it can as an extra 0.7J to bring it up to 2.3J will make a difference, but it'll be a bit quieter than the m14, though the m14 is very quiet for an AEG so it's not as big a deal as you may think. Upgrading the power you'll be looking at a LOT more investment to get it up to that 2.3J mark, but this build will not perform poorly (or at least, it shouldn't!). Another downside is that here you will want to be running as heavy as you can (so ideally .45g or .48g BBs) which is also pretty damn expensive, and because you'll have an MED you'll really want a reliable pistol so you'd be shelling out £150 for a TM, or £90 for an AAP-01 that will eventually explode and require a decent investment to fit the stronger aftermarket parts. Honestly, I'd go with the m14 as a first gun if you're looking to get into the long range game and then save up for a bolt action of your choice when you're more experienced, already have a pistol and have saved up a decent amount to do a good build; I'd probably want at least £500 to do a proper bolt action rifle build. You can play as a "sniper" with any gun, to be honest, and most people these days like to run ghillie suits and some variant of HPA m4 instead of a bolt action because they're a lot more versatile with having no MED and retaining full auto while still being mouse fart levels of silence. In terms of other good regular AEG assault rifles, I'll also wholly endorse the Cyma AKs and mp5s. I have a Cyma mp5k where all I've changed is the hop rubber and nub and it's now slinging .32s to a silly range and makes a nice little full-auto secondary for when I'm running one of my bolt actions. Outside of that, I don't have much experience with AEGs so I will defer to someone else on that as I am more of a gas gun aficionado. Only AEGs I own are a Cyma m14, SR-25 and mp5k, as well as a TM MP7 (but that's an AEP really...). I like Cyma AEGs

Hi Joe, all of the above advice is excellent, I'll echo it by saying plastic gun, as long as its a reasonable brand then whatever you like the look of should be fine, accompanied by three hi-caps should be more than enough for your needs, even with a heavy trigger finger. As for load carrying equipment, again the lighter the better will benefit you at this stage, in fact I'd seriously consider a grab bag, (something like thishttps://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234816279020?hash=item36ac2411ec:g:Kl8AAOSw3Xhjld2a&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoNgXFPc5xPm4RRY%2B79dia5ERL%2BOokatw%2Bo1NCwCJwqwLIx6SSgJWHB8%2FzWohgks9F9QTFbavmufe4QBWrE%2By534lgQJuxUnRGZ5iZ93qwFc9ywNhl5STyLXVQ2EeFNr2X7Slxbk9NCwIK4QpevT2hZiN5LOluomqdWLToBZLNlRcSZjepQ5J7S%2FpAVtFeq3fWXuo8sRb%2Bwc2x7AKxMDd1%2Fw%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR7aE79ysYQ), essentially a tactical handbag with exterior pockets for easy access to your mags, & a larger centre pocket, enough for 500-1000ml water bottle, the big mouth nalgenes are great & easy to top up in the safezone, couple of chocky bars of your choice, spare battery for your rifle & a small bag of bb's for topping up in case some games don't involve a trip back to the safe zone between turnarounds. Literally it'll be about 3kg at the most, & easy to take off if you need a breather, the numerous tactical vests available may look the part, but layers of heavy sweat inducing nylon are overkill at this point. Decent footwear is a must, again doesn't have to be military issue or Gucci af, comfortable pair of walking boots with ankle support will do. Eye Pro is a must, glasses/goggles or full face is down to you, just be aware that teeth can get chipped, seen it a couple of times myself, expensive to put right & reallyy spoils your day lol. As for sites to play, recommend you look at man-made stuff, cqb or similar rather than woodland, for the next few months it'll be slippery af & every step is littered with trip hazards potentially. & don't feel the need to emulate those around you, play at your own pace while you quite literally find your feet, I currently have mobility problems but doesn't stop me racking up the kills, #sneakymotherfuckerforthewin Literally slow & steady wins the race. Good luck mate, keep us posted & ask here before you spend any money, we'll stop you buying any lemons lol.

2022 was a massive transition for me in my Personal life as well as my Airsoft life, which began with a massive slimming down of the rifle collection and augmentation of the clothing... Gone are all of my Russian kit as I cannot bring myself to wear it (The Gorka 1 being the exception as can be used for other loadouts). I have travelled to France, Poland and Hungary last year to get some of this kit. (Considering I am an awkward size, it was important to do this!). I lost a lot of weight this year (16 stone 8 to just a tad under 15 stone). So I swim in much of the F2 French Kit I bought last year, so much so that I had to go back to Paris to get replacements and ended up with superior but heavier T3/T4. I still need a nice green Chest Rig/Molle Vest, Maskpol MAPA Boonie in Large and T3/4 French CCE Shirt. My favourite kit is the latest, which is the MAPA as it's such a good looking kit. But I am most proud of the Hungarian kit, considering how impossible it is to get decent condition garments in the UK especially in my size. A trip to Budapest was mandatory. This year is the year of DNC. I want to replace my existing kit with some more substantial Helikon-Tex replacements. From left to right: Pentagon Aspis Vest in Black. OPS Minimo Chest Rig in Coyote. PMC loadout: Invader Gear Blue Tartan UBACS Invader Gear Revenger Grey Pants DNC Loadout: Parachute German style Windbreaker Original DNC Trousers. Afghan Loadout: Gorka 1 Polish Loadout: Maskpol MAPA UBACS Maskpol MAPA Pants Maskpol Head cover Italian Loadout: Invader Gear Vegetato Revenger Shirt Invader Gear Vegetato Predator Pants Invader Gear Vegetato Boonie Hat Hungarian Loadout: Genuine Hungarian 4 Colour Shirt Genuine Hungarian 4 Colour Pants Genuine Hungarian 4 Colour Boonie hat. French STUFF: Daguet T3/T4 Pants and Shirt Daguet F2 Pants and Shirt Daguet F2 Ubacs Daguet Flak Jacket CCE Flak Jacket CCE T4 Pants CCE F2 Jacket and Pants.

1. Heavier BBs tend to give greater accuracy and longer range. 2. Yes, if it is locked to semi, although you would be very close to the limit. Bear in mind that not all chronos read the same so you could end up not being able to use it if the site chrono reads higher than your one. 3. While power has an impact on range, a high quality barrel (not a Madbull Python!), hop unit, rubber and nub are vital, as is ensuring that you have excellent airseals and that the barrel and cylinder are properly matched. To push the power up to 1.87J, you need to fit a stronger spring; to pull back that stronger spring, you are almost certainly going to need a high torque motor. However, there is far more to setting up a DMR than that. Your site is sensible in using Joules rather than FPS; 1.88J is around 450 FPS using a 0.20g BB. Impulse gave you good advice.

I think I’m going to end up spraying it when I get my UKARA to be honest. The gun itself hasn’t put a foot wrong so far and I may keep a hold of it to try my hand in some simple upgrades etc.

Yeh - you won't be replacing that - as @Nick G says, the geometry of the front of the receiver is not standard M4 spec. It looks proprietary to that specific Classic Army model (CAECR-5) Is this bit moulded into the upper receiver? I'm guessing it is - and if that's the case the only rail that will fit that receiver is another Classic Army rail of the same design. If the gun is good otherwise - run it until it dies. If you really don't like it, sell it and buy something with a rail that you do like.

Thanks for your response. That is something I have noticed about most other M4s regarding the dust cover lug. I believe it does have a removable barrel nut. I personally don’t have any issues with the looks or functionality of the existing handguard other than it being blue and there appears to be a screw missing from the top so it can slide forward (haven’t had it happen during a game). To be totally honest with you, I’m pretty new to the sport so was looking in advance of getting my UKARA to turn it all black. Starting to accept that I’m probably going to have to spray it.

My wife was born female, she identifies as female. According to Sainsbury's Deluxe Sticky Toffee Pudding, she's a family of four.

tl;dr version: if you decide to go down the bolt action route, just buy a Silverback TAC-41, or SRS. They look expensive, but it's cheaper than finding out that trying to spend less means that you'll end up spending more. Also, ahoy and welcome to the wonderful world of airsoft "upgrading".

Let’s not 😬

I'll get in early cause I may not be in a fit state later 😂 Happy pew year to all you reprobates,degenerates,hill dwelling inbreds and good guys that make afuk what it is.🤣🤣 See you next year 🎉🍻 Regards

🤦

I would consider CQB over wood and. flat stable ground, smaller playing area with shorter games. i eco the light gear something polymer body possibly a bullpup

Normally I would chime in here and say "not all HPA users are bad" but I'm having a falling out with my own HPA systems at the moment because they're both being annoying to the point where I may sell them both and no longer be part of the club as I doubt I will go back to it because my gas systems are better and my AEGs are more reliable, sooooo... Sucks to hear that your last game of the year was a bad one. Mine was as well. The idiots specifically targeting hands and groins are worse than the Kicking Mustangs who go for headshots; headshots sting, but hand shots and groin shots sting even worse, as as you said, the hand is fairly easy to fracture if they hit you in the right place with enough force. I only go for hand or groin shots if the person I'm shooting at hasn't taken their body shots and then also hasn't taken their headshots afterwards.

Warhead Industries sell their BB's in some pretty big sizes, e.g. up to 20 kg, but the shipping costs can kill.

Those were the days! For some reason, my Hurricane SR47 would not feed their BBs; every other gun loved them, but not the SR47.

Used to be able to buy bulk from Taiwangun But no more... 😖

By your description of how you use it I’d say go with whatever you like the look of , sounds like either will last you a lifetime.

I bought a TM HK45 about a year ago and it came with all the trades. I think they say they remove the trades for legal reasons, but don't really as I've never seen a TM pistol without trades on it.