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,I was around 16 stone few years ago and over the years it been hard to shift the weight, I started running so I when airsoft with my son I could keep up and have fun without dying from exhaustion. So, over this year I have been running more and more, I started out slow from couch to 5K and in June I did my first race for life 10k event its so good getting across the finish line. I can now run the 10k distance without stopping and my current weight dropped to 13.4 stone at age 40 right now. Thanks.

Less cunts

Just old school stuff. A guccied up PLCE thanks to the addition of a BHI LBV. Snow cam is a Bundeswehr lo-tech poncho. FAMAS is 20 year old+ *Edit* Pictures by Daniel Wiltshire

There's only two things I can't stand on this forum: posters who are intolerant of other people's cultures, and the Dutch.

Not so much an airsoft day but more of a nearly finished building our own private killhouse 🤪 Nearly a years hard graft has gone into building our own private killhouse between 5 of us with some help from others, rain, snow and the cold we put this up by ourselves Looking forward to running the beta test day next Sunday the 27th

Good news! They have release the parcels

I got home from work last night to find these on the dining room table.... The previous owner gave up Airsoft years ago and was about to bin them all when a chance conversation about Airsoft led them to be dropped off at my house.... They're at least 15 years old and in need of some TLC but blimey. Day went from meh to WHOA!!!

This thing just feels amazing - looks absolutely gorgeous

Hi guys, just to let you know there's a new moody scam attempt going on, appearing to target sellers & purporting to be from the forum itself, telling sellers their item has sold & to click on a link within the message to complete the sale. Seems to be originating from Russia, not sure what happens if the link is clicked, probably a trojan horse type virus to mine your info. Don't fall for it, obviously if you get one let us know so we can ban them immediately, here's a screenshot of the kind of text you'll receive:

This is why I write "EN166B" on my home-made eye-pro, to ensure that it meets all safety standards.

A happy update I just spotted this on one of the discord groups Ollie was apparently out to a game last weekend 👍

Well gentlemen, what a painless process that was. A week after making contact with BF via email and requesting to speak directly with the officer associated with my case, my GHK Glock 17 Gen 5 has arrived. Can’t thank all of you enough for your sound advise, it’s been very much appreciated and will endeavor to help anyone in the future as you have all helped me👌🏻

The only assumption I'm going to make is that you are not going to get along with other members of this forum with that kind of attitude. This isn't Discord or Facebook. Your first post is of a 'what am bestest m4?' variety - something that we have seen 1000x over on these forums. Your nebulous question immediately rings alarm bells and whilst the delivery of the UKARA advice above was slightly clumsy, it is somewhat understandable given that most who ask these things still live at home with mummy and daddy, and are looking to write their airsoft xmas list to Santa. Try introducing yourself on the forums - there is an entire section dedicated to it here.

I was at Overlord on Sunday. Bought a couple of real Surefire M600's for £55 a pop. Also got a RS MP5 torch handguard for £35 quid and found what might be a bit of gold unicorn pooh in the shape of a MP5K handguard with a Magnalite attached. The mount was made by a company 20 miles from Hereford and the torch had some issue Duracells inside. I've never seen a picture of one and it's either probably a trials piece or a one off custom job for a job. I'll post a picture when the forum lets me. Now with a picture.

Managed to source a genuine Austrian StG58 kit for my full steel VFC FAL DX

GIVE ME £500 TOO.

At a stage where I'm happy to share the progress on this. China Lake 40mm grenade launcher. It will be a 3+1 40mm pump action grenade launcher. Externals are pretty much done and just waiting on some parts to make progress on the internals. All 3D printed in a mixture of ABS, PLA and Wood filament. There are a couple of parts that I'm going to CNC in metal (looking at you pump arms) but the 3D printed ones will be good enough for testing.

“What colour is the boat house at Hereford”

With the clone wars stronger than ever I thought it might be an idea to have a thread based on how to spot what’s real and what’s not , to be clear this is not a clone bashing thread , but simply a way to hopefully help you get what is advertised , be it parts , optics , lasers/torches or maybe even RIF’s themselves . just because it says Aimpoint/Eotech/Magpul/Surefire doesn’t mean it is , even the packaging is being cloned to a high standard so don’t get get duped . I’ll start with a simple Magpul CTR stock in FDE , there will be better clones than others and I’ve picked a “Tak Tak” variant which retails at around £15-£20 in the UK VS a Gebuine CTR which retails around £75-£80 , the clone Says Magpul on it so in passing looks legit , the biggest tell is usually going to be the colour but as we know everyone’s photos and lighting looks a bit different and if you have nothing genuine to compare to when it arrives you are just taking the sellers word . heres a few comparisons , and highlighted differences between the two which should be easy to spot , Genuine is CTR is either Top or to the Left . main points to note - Genuine will have black tabs where the stock pad locates NOT TAN Genuine will have a molding mark on the underside , oval shaped . Genuine stock pad will have an “F” in the lower right hand side “pocket” Text spacing , the Genuine will be bolder and spaced correctly Length , generally the Clones will be a touch longer . Extra Text , the genuine will have extra text in the lower frame , plus batch / manufacturing numbers just above the locking lever . Hope this helps , as time permits I will add more comparisons .

So managed to obtain an old CAW HK69. Was all painted and original sights were floppy. So added real front and rear sight. Removed to paint and weathered the metal.

My Sheriff Spas 12. Semi-auto version, fully functional. The rarest production airsoft shotgun in the world.

British Forces Collection updated. Now including SBS MC-51SD L101A1 (HK53) L9A1 DS (MK3 hi power) L117A1 (Sig P229) MODEL 603

Fifty Shades of Beige

Nova kit MWS with the fancy rare VFC OPS suppressor, genuine Aimpoint Comp M2 and some other goodies

One rule for everyone, no exceptions. A member who only comes on the forum to sell stuff should not be given preference over a member who actually engages with the forum but sells infrequently. Single tier, simple.

OR WHAT ? As has been pointed out, you could have introduced yourself, given more info & context, instead of asking about "super realistic".......why ?, planning a bank job ?, fancy suicide by cop ? They're generally all realistic, especially as 99.9% of the population of the UK have never been anywhere near a real AR platform. Everyone here, even butcher bills post that caused you to spit your dummy out, have given you sound knowledgeable advice, wind your neck in & take it in the spirit it's been given.

Making the Bow GBB MP5k stock fit an AEG is definitely a 2/10 would not do again but over the moon with the results

Léon The Professional Beretta 92FS DIY Amateur, Not a Workshop Tokyo Marui M92F Base Guarder Aluminum Kit M92F-04(BK) Italian Marking Serial No.D452837 (Movie Matched) Small Parts Sandblasting and Bluing Slide Part Special Surface Finishing Léon The Professional Beretta 92F Final Battle “Deactivated Auction Model” Tokyo Marui M92F Base Guarder Aluminum Kit M92F-04(SV) Deactivated Marking (England & France) Serial No.K00096Z (Movie Matched) Slide, Small Parts, Compensator & Silencer Sandblasting and Bluing Toy & Real

Last game at Red Alert (Newbury), pictures by Dan Wiltshire. Great day, great game. 20+ year old Famas coming out of retirement after 15 years of being in a basement. Luke Dobson slapped it back into shape and it ran fiiiiine.

went to Red Alert's boot saleamathingy today and picked up a bit of a bargain. It's a PTS Masada for £80.

Raresoft is set to become the UK distributor for Viva Arms products. Lots of historical replicas otherwise unobtainable will make their way to UK shores soon... MG34 Maxim M1910 M19A6 M19A4 ZB26 Just to name a few.... There will also be separate CNC gearboxes available.

OP: "I just bought this, is this any good?" Forum: "not really" OP: "Well, let me tell you why it's good and you're all wrong"

Just wanted to share my experience flying from Spain (Malaga) to the UK with internal airsoft parts in my carry-on luggage, in case it helps anyone considering the same. This could probably help in some other EU countries as well. Background: I only considered doing this because I had pre-purchased parts from Finland and Italy to arrive at my address in Spain. Nearly everything was RetroArms parts at significant discounts — hard to come by and expensive to replace. The only non-RetroArms item was the LCT AK magwell spacers. I was trying to avoid shipping them separately or risking them in checked baggage due to time and coordination issues. Previous Experience: On a past trip, I had tried to take an airsoft pistol magazine in carry-on. In hindsight I couldn't believe I even tried this, I should have known better. It was flagged immediately and security said I’d have to either check it in the hold (too late) or have it confiscated. I chose the latter. Lesson learned: magazines are a definite no in hand luggage. This Time: I packed the following internal-only parts in my carry-on: 2 gearboxes 2 motor cages 2 spring guides 1 cylinder 1 cylinder head LCT AK magwell spacers Nothing was externally gun-shaped or capable of functioning on its own. All were purely internal upgrade components. I also brought: Paperwork detailing what the items were, receipts and why I had them. In both Spanish and English. My best attempt at staying calm and cooperative despite being rushed (I woke up an hour before the flight and was rushing like hell to get to the airport, don't do that!) What Happened: After going through the scanner, my bag was immediately pulled aside. Security flagged the contents as “weapon-like in nature.” I explained and handed over the documentation. A police officer was called. Thankfully, he knew what airsoft was and confirmed the parts were internal-only and not part of a replica. He still went to check with his superior, since it was a fairly large quantity. The superior gave the green light, but warned me not to do it again, emphasizing that other officers could have refused it entirely. I ended up having to sprint through the airport and barely made my flight. It was a close call as I had 7 minutes to run from Security, through Passport control and to the gate at the furthest end of B Terminal! Key Point: Even if what you’re carrying is legal, that does not mean you have the right to bring it in carry-on. Airport security and airline staff have full discretion to confiscate or deny boarding over any item they find suspicious, even if it’s not prohibited by law. Final Thoughts: I got through this time because I had paperwork, remained polite, and the police officer was informed. But it could have easily gone the other way. TL;DR: Only tried this because I had pre-bought RetroArms parts at a discount, shipped to Spain from Finland and Italy. Packed all internal parts: no replica externals, no magazines. Bag was pulled aside, police were called, and I was let through after a warning. Legal doesn’t mean allowed — security can refuse anything. Wouldn’t try it again — too stressful and risky. If you do intend to try this. Please make sure you heed the above!

I wonder if the 320’s have the realistic fire in holster or fire when dropped function 🤭

Very rarely share what I've bought, in case she picks up my phone lol, but saw this patch today & thought "yep, that's me"

Hello Hello, I remembered I had an account here and asked some questions some time ago related to these projects. I figured I'd do a bit of a project dump on what I've been up to. I'll use this thread for future additions, as I certainly have more planned as funds allow. The BR-55 and M7 SMG are near completion and are fully functional. Both need a few tweaks and some internal parts. I'd stopped both projects until January this year, and started both from scratch with the aid of my new printer, a Prusa XL (single head for now). Due to ill health, I had to stop work on the BR, having completed a lot of but not all of the physical aspects, and instead directed my attention to the design work for the M7. The M7 requires a lot less metal work (only cutting some rods and drilling about 4 holes in a 3x12 stainless bar, and a couple in the alu barrel mounting). Thus both are being worked on in parallel. I'm currently in the process of refining a few things. Needless to say, neither project has been particularly cheap. Credit to Kingdom of Airsoft and Perun for the original idea to use the ETU++ as a "DIY" solution. The BR-55 A bit of a mix of The Halo 2, 3, and H2A designs, I went for a mix of aspects due to preference, and deepened the stock to allow fitment of a V3 gearbox. It weighs around 4.5KG unloaded, and is reinforced with 15mm stainless box section within the upper, and 12x3 stainless bar running down either side of the stock. There are various bits of metal rod where needed. Surprisingly it's pretty well balanced on the (very comfy) grip, and will stand on the grip alone unsupported. It's printed very solidly in eSun's PLA super tough. It feels very sturdy and there are no squeaks or wobbles. (old video where it's basically being held together by me, you can also see my H2A Marine helmet). 1:1 to the "real" size. Guts: It uses a perun ETU++ hooked up to various microswitches for operation, and has a proper 3 position selector with a mechanical safety. This means no bullpup trigger bar and a snappy trigger. The round counter is fully operational, utilising Tachyon's solution with a custom graphics pack and modified sensor layout, removing the need for a "sock" on the end of the barrel. The round counter is reset by pulling back the charging handle. Manually (very, very carefully, I swear) removed the sensor and emitter from the board, applied heatshrink, and superglued to a saddle that straddles the hole I drilled in the barrel. Also contains compass and clock. Quite useful for timed games. The gearbox is a V3 LCT AK, with an airsoft-pro G36 chamber and 450 something-mm ZCI barrel. Sadly the ML bucking I used (60' macaron) has given me some issues, and will not lift a .25 without dropping 70+ FPS. Having attempted the usual fixes and various nubs, I'm at a loss. I have a psionic Tho-R on the way for both the SMG and BR, so touch wood that'll be an improvement. The airsoft pro chamber is nice in that it bolts directly to the gearbox, removing that as a variable for air leakage. The battery compartment is in the foregrip, with an AK dust cover style button for easy access and removal. The space is sizeable, and I can't see much trouble fitting at least a 3000mah 11.1v in there (if only I had one). I intend to include a small toolkit. The magazines are fully custom, with ML superfeed springs (hello midcap syndrome). Not perfect, but I'm working on improvements. Thanks to Igniz for some pointers on dimensions. I intend to try integrating AR mag hi-cap guts at some point for a skirmish mag. The mag release is situated in front of the mag well, and gives a nice satisfying click on seating. The well is intentionally loose for the addition of velcro, giving a secure fit. These feed into a modular feed block that interfaces between the chamber and magazine. I've allowed provision for a built in tracer and a mechanism to prevent BBs from dropping. Takedown: Basic takedown is very simple and tool-less. It involves removing the foregrip, removing a detent pin from in front of the trigger guard, then sliding the upper forward out of the 1/3 rifle length grooves. The braided battery cable should slide free easily. Removing the gearbox requires removing the hop from the gearbox, pulling the squished wires out, unscrewing 5 bolts on the back, and feeding it out through the open hole in the back of the stock, followed by disconnecting the deans and microswitch cable. Somehow both better and worse than the AUG. The pistol grip is held in by 6 M4 bolts and I doubt that'll ever go anywhere. Printed and oriented for maximum strength. The entire upper takes down into sections from around the 15mm tube. Other nifty details and gaffes: -There are 6 QD sling points, 2 rear, front and mid (in front of the receiver). -Rubber (TPU) butt pad and coating for the cheek rest. -The cheek rest is too far forward to comfortably use. Game design moment. -The rail is too far forward for most magnified optic's eye relief to be useful. You can however lift the stock over your shoulder to get close enough. -I neglected to put a ledge on the front of the trigger guard, which the fire select detent mechanism attached to. This meant if you put pressure on the trigger guard (say with your hand), it would move the fire select lever up and down. This has been rectified quite easily, if a little wastefully. -I dropped the whole lower receiver onto a concrete corner from several feet while carrying it to the food dehydrator to cure, after the final coat. I nearly screamed in anguish. Thankfully, PLA-ST is very tough, and it sustained only a minor dent on an edge. This is the first battle damage. Remarkable material for being so cheap and easy to print. -I originally intended the design to keep the hop up chamber with the upper upon disassembly. I found that no matter the spring used, firing would cause the hop up to move forward 5mm with every shot. I suspect this has something to do with the anti double feed mechanism it has. It's now fixed to the gearbox, and is somewhat delicate when unsupported by the upper, hanging by only a grub screw. At some point I'll look at fixing it proper to the lower. -The magazines had to be angled forward to be in an optimal position to feed. -I didn't think my power wiring through very well, and it's a bit of a rat's nest. The excess power wires that give sufficient length for the gearbox to be removed have to be stuffed into a hole to keep them out of the way. Not an easy prospect with thickly insulated 14awg wires. Needs improvement. -The muzzle flash is printed and currently just friction fits on the barrel. I've the means but not the expertise to use a lathe to cut a thread into it. When that happens, I intend to buy Foundry's alu flash hider. -The painting was a bit of a nightmare, and contained a lot of stops, starts and bad farts . Accidentally wiping off paint with unintentionally strong spirits, gray overspray onto black, clear clouding, dropping final piece onto concrete... etc. -The detail lines on the stock were so shallow, sanding and spray putty almost removed them in places. Without thinking I set to with a knife, butchering some grooves into several hundred hours of work. -Much like an old warplane being restored with a few bolts or a nameplate being the "same plane", the foregrip was the only part that made its way over from the original project. Considering the detail lines were so small that they didn't even print, I'm kind of wishing I hadn't. I'd say the (almost) end result is worth it though. M7 SMG Ah, the first proper CAD project I ever worked on, and the first airsoft gun I ever attempted. Frankly, the original I started 5-6 years ago was unsalvageable. Looked pretty, but holy moly, what a mess. It's not wasted though, you learn things. I have to say I'm quite happy with how this one turned out. Far less faff than the BR-55, almost everything worked as intended without much trouble. Printed in much the same fashion and material, but a fair sight simpler. (please excuse the mess, Prusa XL enclosed in the background) The guts: JG Vz.61 AEP innards form the working part of this pew pew. Regrettably, AEP performance isn't always the best, and repairing broken ones can be iffy. You can imagine my disappointment when I finally finished a gun that's been 5-6 years in the making, and it has an effective range of 15 feet. The stock bucking applies no backspin at all. Thankfully everything else works, and I have a Psionic Tho-R on the way to help remedy that. The gearbox unfortunately had an incident where the cut-off switch fell off internally, as evidently no thread lock was applied at manufacture. Awaiting a fine torx set to get at it. The feed route is an interesting one, given it goes around 4 bends and finally ends up vertical. Works just fine though apparently. (Note it's a little more noisy than it would be, as there's no barrel or hop unit, or BB being fired) VID_20240811_210834390.mp4 As a salve for the disappointment that may be gripping some of you upon hearing the acronym "A-E-P", this gun's perfectly sized for a P* F2, and would require minimal design changes to adapt it for such. This gun also uses the Perun ETU++, and this time with some wire management (woo). I've got a very satisfying clicky electronic safety that uses magnets as detents, as I had no room to integrate a mechanical safety in the linear trigger. It's very ergonomic and easy to toggle with the trigger finger within the trigger guard. The ETU was intended for this project originally as a way of getting around the lack of semi cut off present on CMG gearboxes (CQB gun with no semi is as useful as a max joule sniper in CQB), but proved perfect for bullpups. The fire selector isn't in the most ideal of locations (under the magazine well), but it can be easily toggled with the off hand. The battery compartment is in the grip, and a cap comes off with the push of a button at the back. It can hold standard sized lipo batteries, preferably short ~1200mah 7.4v. I'm very pleased with the magazine seating / locking mechanism. It was a problem with the original. This time there's a hook very securely mounted to the back of the receiver. As you slide the magazine forward onto the tray, the hook falls into a groove in the magazine, and as the fore of the magazine seats into the mag well, the hook locks the magazine in the X axis as the mag catch locks it in the Y. You can jerk the gun around by the magazine only without play. Nice click too. Both the stock and foregrip change position. The stock extends by around 95mm, and locks securely with a 5mm stainless pin into a 12x3 stainless bar. The foregrip also locks with a metal pin, but into ABS+. It has no side to side play, but has a little forward and back play when deployed. I've decided it's negligible given it's minor and doesn't make a noise. The ejection port / charging handle also works smoothly, though it's not for thick or gloved fingers. The top iron sights are removable, to be replaced with a pic rail. Side and bottom rails can also be added. Takedown: A little more tool intensive than the BR-55 for basic takedown. 2 bolts allow the removal of the upper "cap", 6 more for the inner "block" which houses the hop up chamber, feed block and outer barrel. This slides forward off the nozzle and up. This allows the gearbox, pressured down by the upper cap, to be removed. Nifty details and gaffes: -The stock detent spring has been a source of frustration and fiddling. I've spent some time trying to get the spring mounted onto the pin block. To be improved. -The stock pad is TPU with ABS encased within to mount the 2 QD fittings (designed for single point slings only, unless the front is wrapped with something). TPU doesn't deal with overhangs well, and the quality leaves something to be desired. I'm hoping a second head for the XL will solve this problem (multi-material integration). -The original Omron SS-5 switch I bought for the trigger sounded *exactly* like a computer mouse. I couldn't stand this and instead bought some of the XSS-5 copies that actually feel more solid and sound better. -Surprisingly ergonomic, though the grip is less comfy than the BR. I didn't want to sacrifice the aesthetic too much. The sights are useful for airsoft even if you can only really look down them when holding the gun out like a pistol. You can still align them while shouldered. Adequate for lobbing small plastic balls at other nerds. -The suppressor seems a little pointless for an electric gun, but I'll likely do it anyway at some point. It's very janky and intended to use an olight key ring torch with a threaded "presser" on the back to turn it on. I'd rather do it when I can thread the barrel. It'd also be more useful for a HPA version. Man I love the aesthetic of this thing. Drawing a blank here, nothing much went wrong. I'd hate you less for wanting me to make you one of these. That's about it for now. You may have noticed a new helmet in one of the pics, with built in forehead / glasses fan. Future projects will be the HPA SMG when I'm not poor (gee I wonder where the money went), Mk23 M6C Socom, and a HPA MA5B. We don't talk about the WE tech Glock I turned into a magnum. Needless to say I don't like WEtech anymore. I'd love to daytona a Halo replica, but alas, money. Ask away, just be aware I'm a little closed on specific details as I do plan to make a little money on these. Cheers for reading.

The RIF I wanted so bad, that when I joined these forums 20+ years ago, my username was 'Bison Hunter' 😁. I got a custom made from a TM Beta Spetsnaz but it wasn't really skirmishable. Then I quit the hoppy and came back 15 years later to find that Bizons had basically been and gone... until Patrol Base got some stock in at the same time I got a work bonus. I've had it 3 weeks and decided I wanted to remove the stock completely and cover the exposure at the back. This required an adaptor that itself required some angle grinder attention. But now with the RK-3 grip, B-13 mount (both with funky Russian language on them), and PBS-1 can, it's almost my dream RIF. In lieu of a decent Kobra sight, I have a C More sight on the way, so the nasty one on here is a placeholder. First game on Sunday and I just can't wait! 😁

Finally got my hands on one

I want Kicking Mustangs head on a platter.

Gas blowback L86 custom conversion using a mix of ICS and RS parts and custom reinforcement, SUSAT is currently a reproduction And also my C7A2 with genuine C79 scope, MWS base with G&P 20" steel outer barrel

I have some tasteful MP5s..

Bloke's clearly not an airsofter, I'm not minded to help him get his hands on a RIF.

Technically, I've wanted a Tanaka for about 15 years. When I first started playing airsoft, in my eyes at least a Tanaka rifle was the bee-knees. They were rare, a weird choice, moderately expensive and also had this allure of some existing 'pre-ban'. Not Asahi M40 shell-ejecting rare, but still uncommon. What probably added to that, was that at the time when I was playing, there was a sniper at my local field who had one and he totally dominated with it (mostly because he worked nights doing security on empty warehouses, so he had unlimited access to a 100m+ wind free range). I wanted one then but I never found quite what I was after, then airsoft fell by the wayside and I forgot all about them. Having restarted this year, I had a trip down memory lane and an old Facebook post reminded me of my lust for Tanakas. But finding them is even tougher these days - mostly because people who have them don't want to part with them. Chatting about Tanakas with a sniper at Battle Lakes a couple of months back and he mentioned he had a couple - one he found and one a mate sold to him when he gave up. When I saw him last week, he said he'd given it some thought and he'd sell me one as it was sitting unused. So last night, I picked up a 'pre-ban' Tanaka M700 and a few mags. Now just to wait for some good weather but hopefully not 15 years.

Recently managed to get my hands on a Sheriff Spas 12. I have a friend who needs the engine to revive his Sheriff Highlander Magnum, so this will be a donor for an M1100-based conversion.

Star L1A1 with EnglishKiwi 3D printed (SLS) L2A2. Gave the L2 a lick of paint, a couple of labels and a bit of weathering to make it seem a bit aged.

Have been working on this for a few years now and still missing a few minor bits, but getting closer and closer to a screen accurate "TTI TR-1 Ultimate Ultralight AR-15" from JohnWick Chapter 2. Base gun is an MWS, the receiver and barrel set are from the old AG kit, internals are a bit of a mix, but everything else than can be RS is RS (Real-Steel). Only thing I cant bloody find is the throw-lever (ac20007) 🙄 -

DavefromSkegness was taken .

New pew today 😁. Since using my lad's SSE18, I've wanted one for my ghillie rig, but I've decided to dual-purpose it for my cyberpunk CQB setup. The massive holo is a placeholder until my low-profile (red) red dot arrives, but I'm starting to get attached to it, whilst tactically sweeping my house over and over. The amplifier was primarily cosmetic but it definitely makes the pistol sound less anaemic. Also missing is a red flared mag well, as it was out of stock. She's ugly, but that's kind of the point. 😄 Once it's complete, the real project begins: Integral torch, using the foregrip cavity, and LED lighting in the rear carbine cavity... all for the cyberiness. 😄