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You can't 'upgrade' a gearbox to a V2 gearbox, the gearbox versions are all different gearbox shapes and types, a V3 isn't an upgraded V2 it is a completely different gearbox for a different type of gun. Your M14 EBR has a V7 type gearbox with a different motor housing compared to the standard V7 gearbox because of where the motor sits in the EEBR version of the M14. When it comes to upgrading a V7 gearbox, they aren't the easiest to work on and the parts availability is difficult for the parts that aren't universal between al gearbox types. You have a different cylinder, different gears (the spur gear is a different size, the bevel and sector gears can be changed) the cylinder head and nozzle are specific to the V7 (nozzle is specific and just getting the right length standard nozzle wont work). They also don't work with a lot of aftermarket pistons as they rub on the gears so the piston has to be modified to clear them. Things that will break eventually if you put a stronger spring in it, the stock piston is fully plastic, maybe one metal tooth (i only disassembled one yesterday but can't picture it in my head) this wont hold up to continued use with an M130 and really a full metal rack is required (but this then means modifying one to fit). The standard gear may or may not hold up, they aren't the strongest gears ever but with decent shimming they should be fine for a while. The only aftermarket ones that are readily available are the SHS V7 gearset and they are decent, I have used them but they are expensive compared to standard gears because they are such a niche item. Your stock motor may not be up to pulling a spring that big, the stock CYMA motors really struggle with bigger springs and most likely it will make your gun incredibly sluggish. I don't know about the motor length on the V7 EBR version, but stock CYMA V7 gearboxes come with a short type motor that is actually slightly shorter than most stock short motors so you have to modify the shaft to fit properly. Actually jamming an M130 spring into a V7 gearbox is no easy task, they don't have a quick change spring so you are trying to jam the spring in, stop the cylinder from popping out all while keeping all the gears inline and not knocking shims off them as you try and close the gearbox. It is not fun and will take several tries most probably. It can be incredibly frustrating but is possible.

FORUM MODERATORS: Can sale items marked as completed have the 'message seller' button removed, or after a while be deleted. I have had repeated emails asking if a shotgun I sold 2 years ago is still available. 2 in the last couple of months...

Have to say I saw it as 3P with a laser / bullet / whatever striking through it straight off 🤷🏼‍♂️

Well yeah if I squint with a following wind 🤣🤣😉

What would you like to achieve with the CYMA that it's not doing now? Do you want to run it as a DMR? True, they're not the best motors, but CYMAs sold in the US and EU tend to come meatier than in the UK. TaiwanGun, for example, reckons about 1.5J for the CM0.32... although GunFire says ~340fps / 1.1J, so, eh, who knows. Just noting that as an aside, I agree with the assessment that it's not like chucking a new spring into a Specna Arms M4.

Cut and pasted from the above link "being only 2 months old. It still has its Manufacturers Warranty" I'd like to see someone try to get TM to honour that considering any TM gnu bought outside of Japan is a grey import

Up to you if you're happy to play with a two-tone. (You can spray it black after you have UKARA) Remember that a two-tone is not worth as much second hand so when you want to 'upgrade' you will lose more on what you paid for it. (most retailers will charge extra for two-tone as well) It is worth having a backup so if you can keep it when you upgrade then it would be more worthwhile

I use mesh with glasses as well. Haven't had a BB shatter yet. I think the larger mesh is a bit better than the one with small holes because it flexes a bit when hit so the BBs are less likely to shatter. But I'm glad I have the glasses underneath anyway.

Should be OK, the mesh size is quite large, giving some concern to bb's potentially shattering & particles getting through, but given that you'll be wearing glasses under it, it should be fine. Masks, bit like boots, are quite a personal thing, what fits & works for one guy may not suit the next guy, so there's often quite a bit of trial & error involved until your happy.

Hi I bought VFC G45(Umarex, Eliteforce whichever it is called) and gathered most of aftermarket parts available in the market. I have notied that no company has manufactured a "Barrel Base" (Parts # 03-7) this piece tends to break on the heavy use yet, there is no aftermarket parts. I would like to make one for myself and possibly for few other people in the community (where i am from) I had no idea how these things work, but I have learrned that we need 3D modeling to begin with, to do so, we need to 3D scan the actual part or reverse design the part, in which way it would cost fortune and time. So I have asked VFC to provide me with the one which they have declined - understandably, but I have asked different company once and they just gave it to me no question asked, which was a surprise. Anyway I was wondering all these aftermarket parts manufacturers for example Cowcow, they have made many parts in steel, does anyone know if they would have been provided with 3D Modeling from VFC with certain contract? or those aftermarket manufacturer also gone thru all those reverse designing and 3d scanning thingy? or do you think anyone or any organization would have that 3D modeling I am looking for? By the way, the part I am trying to build is this part. (the one in the blue circle) Any idea or suggestion for me to accomplish this project would be highly appreciated.

A Perun ETU++ is pretty much an essential upgrade to an G&G ETU-equipped gun. Fitted one almost immediately after getting a G&G CM16 SRS for my son, really good bit of kit. Once the ETU trigger unit switches die, I'll replace the whole lot with a Perun Hybrid or whatever equivalent available at that time.

I'm presuming for LiPo, if so then your best source is going to be (reputable) RC shops, i.e. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/electric/chargers/dual-output/quad-output/built-in-balancer?

Perun ETU++ on the right. G&G mosfet & fuse on the left. I still need to tidy up the wires with a couple of cable ties - just need to find them first.

It says 3P doesn't it?

As a regular for Special Ops at Milton Keynes / Olney, which is currently closed, and has been since May... I'm well up for this We've had a few people ask for sites in this area, and being near the M1 means the catchment area is quite extensive - so I reckon you'll get some regulars once people get to hear about it

Our dog kept chasing people on a bike. So we took his bike off him. Then he just sat in the garden and barked all day. So we gave him his bike back. Because his bark was worse than his bike.

It replaces the stock ETU and inline fuse so I found it made battery fitment easier. Not home at the mo so can't do a comparison, will have a go later for you.

It what I did, and I have no regrets. Actually, while I bought a two-tone, after a careful reading of the wording of the legislation, I've never played with one. Oh noes, is this going to be come a "wut starter gnu?" thread.

This. I always used .25s till I fed my MP5K some .3s and I got a big improvement in range

Hello & welcome. Lots has been said about renting rather than going two-tone for a few months. It's not just the cost but also figuring out what you want from your new toys so that you get the toys that suit you best. You've played before so it's not the standard newbie responses, you already know you like airsoft and know what you're looking for so with you it's more a case of resale values (if you're planning to sell it once you get UKARA) and respraying the brightly coloured bits. If you're happy doing the respray and it'll become your backup once you have UKARA then it's a fair argument to buy rather than rent, there's a thread on here about using vinyl dye instead of paint.

Have you measured what range you are getting? Have you tried a few different weights of BBs. You may end up spending money to only get a few extra metres in range

Ahoy and welcome. Mayyyybe. Going to lipo made a big difference to my CYMA AEP. They do actually work, and will put 0.2g far enough for most CQB site. The trigger response is never going to be as good as gas or a decent electric rifle though, so you're playing in Hard Mode. Waiting for your membership / UKARA is a good opportunity to blag a go on other guns - if you were at my local struggling with an AEP I'd take pity on you and throw a spare AEG your way.

Sure looks like it. Nice gun, but over-priced - (£645 for the gun + 3 mags from Fire-Support), plus the Magpul bits (£30 for the Vert grip, £60 for the MOE stock, £30 for the MOE Grip - assuming all legit Magpul) plus flash hider (~£30) comes to around £795 give or take a fiver. I would guess that someone might be willing to pay the asking price though if the gun and/or mags are out of stock - which seems to be pretty common.

If you want more from a MOSFET than the standard offering you can swap to a Perun ETU++ pretty easily. It's outside the gearbox so is literally plug and play, I just had to remove the stock but I'm not sure about the AK as that's front wired so it may be a couple of extra screws. I play CQB so have done mine, primarily for the pre-cocking but it also meant the battery connector changed from Tamiya to Deans.

No worries, I'll be honest I sometimes wear mesh (without glasses) but I've never had a BB shatter & cause an issue, but I know others have so better safe than sorry🤔

Decided to upgrade most of my AEGs with some kind of ETU after years of resisting. So 2x Perun Hybrids (one's already installed): And just ordered a Gate Titan Advanced (thanks KWA and the lack of compatibility with anything else) courtesy of the 'Santa's sack' sale at JD Airsoft. Oh, and a box of KWA MS120 Mid Caps.

Thanks, that's a huge help. I was just concerned I may have picked up an unsafe mask. If BBs shatter and make it past the glasses I wear I'd be very surprised.

Welcome (back) 😉 (I haven't been since 2019 either) Hopefully someone with local knowledge will help with site recommendations. You can also check HERE in the meantime. You may struggle with an AEP for CQB as its cycle time is quite long and speed is of the essence in that environment. And it certainly won't work for outdoors I'm afraid. Even though its a pain in the wallet, it really is best to rent for the first 3 games. You'll get to see what others have and maybe have a go with a few if you ask nicely.

I get the feeling it would help if OP had ever actually played airsoft

I'd agree with the above basically, I don't know what thread spec they both use but I think most VFCs are standard outer barrels (haven't touch an ARES). Don't get an ambi selector for the best feel, they're worse as a rule. I just had an E&C M16 arrive this morning with a very nice selector on it, nice externals overall, no idea on thread spec on the upper and I'm not taking it apart, but I'd presume they're standard AR AEG outer barrels. A lot of G&Ps have weird tapered chamber areas on their OBs and a proprietary upper thread to boot. Believe ICS and G&G are pretty standard but there's better stock externals for sure, probably the same for Krytac, KA and anything cheaper.

Wow, this has gone down about as well as when someone signs up just to recruit for a team and makes a long list of stringent demands, they expect applicants to adhere to.

It isn’t reversible. However if you just wanna play cowboy without bbs you could just take the spring and follower out temporarily. Just carefully slide the base plate off making sure to grab the spring, lower spring guide and upper follower amp put somewhere safe and dry fire all you want.

MTW's are absolutely incredible for the money. Really nice build quality and excellent performance. They're so good I'm even selling my SRS at the moment as they essentially have the same range.

I was thinking of upgrading my CYMA CM.032 EBR M14 i thought of getting a M130 spring but i am worried if the stock internals will get ruined or broken if it would what part should i buy to fix that. I also want to upgrade the gear box to a v2 would this be a good idea. Thank you for your time.

Buyers remorse? https://www.usedairsoft.co.uk/rif-s/tokyo-marui-cqbr-block-1-gbb-rifle_i42872