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VN Mags might not have a massive capacity, love em for CQB though. Strap was butchered from various places, might get a proper one if they ever become easily available. Kind of want a suppressor as well, not really sure what to go for though.

I would understand if he wouldn''t want to sell his gun, If as you say it isn't worth much then he won't get much in return for it, Also, Isn't there something special about your first gun? I'd keep it as a memento

Their night games are on the filmsim spectrum or maybe soft milsim, medic rules apply ( bleed out times are quite strict, if hit you remain in your position calling for a medic for a set length of time, normally bleed out 5 or 10 mins, then you return to your base and wait for a 4 man squad to form before returning to the game), there are ammo limits, a vague back story, teams denoted by colour typically green vs tan (with DPM and DDPM so cheap in surplus shops and colour of rigs are irrelevant so its pretty much open to anyone) rolling objectives although occasionally they have short breaks so it ends up being a series of play pause play etc. The risk of loosing your life and the penalty that is likely to incur tends to make people play smart rather than super aggressive. I find there is far less aggression and cheating. You are probably paying more money to play the game, you have probably prepared for it for a significant amount of time perfecting kit choices and fettling with kit so you are showing much more commitment to the whole concept. You will be in a smaller group than your average skirmish and everyone pretty much is in the same boat so cheating is not tolerated at all.

I have and always will stand by my somewhat outdated view that there is only one reasonable sniper-system in airsoft. The TM VSR series. That being said, I also refuse to believe that GBBR weapons actually exist, they're just a myth created by the illuminati to keep us blue collar 'aeg-guys' down. >.> <.<

Lightweight loadout? You've come to the right place! #1: the Bulle Lightweight Chest rig This rig has all you need for £40, and it lasts a hell of a long time as do other Bulle UK products. Comes with built in pouches including: 3x bungee secured mag pouches holding 2x M4 mags in each or 1x AK/G36 mag 2x zip up utility pouches mounted either side, with MOLLE on the fronts and the insides to secure items etc. 1x zip up map pouch occupying the space behind the mag pouches It also has MOLLE on the back panel for hydration pouches, MOLLE on the shoulder straps and even MORE MOLLE on the front of the mag pouches £30 off tactical kit.co.uk. Also comes in Tan if you want to put together a Multicam/MTP/Coyote Brown/Desert DPM/ whatever desert camo you want loadout. I believe that's in stock there at the moment. #2: the Tactical Tailor Mini MAV This thing is micro as hell. It comes with no pouches whatsoever but it does have space for 3x M4 mag pouches and 2 pistol mag pouches either side or a torch pouch/whatever. I personally own this rig (as well as the Bulle rig) and I can safely say they are both amazing quality. The TT Mini MAV is made in Tacoma Heights, Washington, USA, and feels brilliant to the touch. They come in Olive Drab, Black, Coyote Brown and Multicam. These things retail for £32 with no pouches on them, however you can get pouches for fairly cheap. In fact, the best budget pouches are made by Bulle UK! As for trousers, I'd suggest not using Chinos as they can rip easily- pick up a pair of Craghoppers trousers from a camping shop or Go Outdoors/Milletts online or a pair of MFH combats off military1st.co.uk or a pair of Propper canvas trousers off flecktarn.co.uk.

Weapons: Okay the gun you've linked is fine as a starter, so don't worry about that till you have a feel for the hobby and know what to look for in weapons. Transparent AKs are practically non existent - i.e. If you look long and thoroughly enough you may find one, but I've never seen or heard of one. Best colour for AK two tones (in my opinion) is the bright orange since if you squint at it then it almost looks realistic haha. Cymas are brilliant but you will need a spring downgrade as they clear 370fps out of the box. Chest rig/Loadout: Best thing to do is to decide what you need the rig for then choose accordingly; chest rig/vest for CQB games or plate carriers if you decide to milsim/use low cap magazines. It's all dependent on your ideal budget as well since most decent chest rigs/plate carriers cost in the region of £40+ before you add on pouches. If you're on a budget then a prebuilt tactical vest may be a better choice as you can get a decent one for around £30. As a new starter it's unlikely you'll be running more than a couple of high caps so just having camo trousers on is enough as most pockets on these are big enough to hold magazines. This brings me on to the chinos. Don't bother with them and buy a pair of surplus camo trousers to wear instead (can get them for less than £10). Face mask: Depends on personal preference and your sites restrictions. Most ask for under 16s having a full one piece mask, 16-18s can have a lower mesh mask/goggle combo and 18+ can just use goggles. Personally speaking the goggle/mesh mask combo is my favourite combined with suitable head wear. I use these two products as my face protection: http://www.tactical-kit.co.uk/smith-optics-elite-boogie-regulator-goggle-10085-p.asp http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/370897157295 Boots: Anything sturdy with good grip is your best bet. Hiking boots are cheap and rugged but again it's down to what your comfortable in. Most commercial trainers won't take the abuse of regular skirmishing whereas a good pair of boots are usually cheaper and last a lot longer.

TBH it looks god awful, Look at the different sizes of the molle webbing, there supposed to be uniform Go to flecktarn.co.uk and you could get a bulle one of a far higher quality than that

I have a four foot foam sword for non-serious skirmishes. When I bring that everyone seems to call surrender for some reason when I charge them with it... But for regular games I have a fake rubber knife but it's mainly for display.

ebay

Probably not. They're designed for actual guns not airsoft weapons. Also - you can't buy it direct due to this: ITAR International Traffic in Arms Regulations Controlled Product

Ditto the dropleg of course... http://www.eliteukforces.info/gallery/uksf-misc/special-forces.php That's the great thing about the internet - you can find a photo to prove pretty much ANY point

450fps with a metal BB is still not exactly a lethal firearm though, a 9mm pistol for example is typically 1100-1300fps and that's with a seriously heavy bullet (7.5grammes approx for 9mm FMJ). For those who can't be bothered with the maths, that's about 570 joules at the top end. I should caveat that by saying that a 9mm is actually a fairly low energy firearm, the british SA80 (or L85 as you lot insist on calling it!) has a muzzle velocity of nearly 3100fps, with the 4.1g 5.56x45mm NATO bullet it fires. That's 1,767 joules and 5.56 NATO has received some criticism for not having enough stopping power in combat. Don't get me wrong, it'd hurt like hell and definitely break the skin, but as far as piercing bone and doing actual internal damage? No chance. In short, NO, your airsoft gun would NOT cut it in the zombie apocalypse, regardless of how big a spring you put in it.

I prefer black revolvers to be pure black. Just looks more badass

Welcome to the site mate!

I have an ASG Dan Wesson 2.5 inch revolver and let me tell you, it is the most satisfying thing ever when you get a hit with one when you know you only have 6 shots. Like Happy stated, you will need to downgrade them because they shoot around 430 fps from the start (remember they used to be hunting pistols for game,then they got converted for airsoft). You can easily sort this by getting downgrade shells, which let 50% less c02 get the the bb itself, therefore reducing fps by half, enabling the revolver to be allowed to use in skirmishes. You get 6 high power shells with it, I purchased 25 downgrade shells for it and they work great. The good thing about ASG DW's is that when you strip them, you can access everything and you can mod them to be more powerful (although it is not recommend if you want it to be skirmishable) and they are easy to maintain and clean. The build quality is amazing and second to none, I was truly impressed with it. Only problem is they are a pain to reload if you have gloves on, its a right fumble but its a great feeling. I mainly load 6 shells in and use it as a last resort while using my AEG or for getting those tight shots for when my AEG is too big. The c02 consumption is really good as well. Overall, like Happy stated, they are a novelty weapon, but they are great fun if you want one, just get some downgrade shells for them.

Multicam trousers and a condor chest rig off eBay. Actually worked out cheaper buying them in America for some reason (£40 incl. shipping). Edit: Oh and a Kryptek "Highlander" pattern helmet cover. Still to buy: parts to fix my car, food and some new work boots. I have my priorities right you see

I can see why peeps enjoy Milsim and why others don't. I keep saying I will play a game one day but I think if I'm honest I may just annoy my friends/team mates and not be invited again. No access to my Facebook, no bubble bath, no sex before bed, ammo limited to a handful of bbs, sporadic fighting and having to take orders.... Sounds like hell to me. I think you'd literally have to pay me to do it as it would feel like an actual shift lol That said I've got a shed load of respect for the guys that do it! Seriously you must have serious discipline and dedication. My hat goes of to you

Currently the best buy sniper gun is A&K M24. It already has steel trigger mechanism. A few tweaks, a good hopup rubber, a barrel and you are good to go. However I usually recommend sniping to more experienced players. It is nothing like in the computer games. Play at least one year with AEG before taking up sniping or you will be really disappointed. The L96 without upgrade is just as accurate as a bad AEG. There is no hopup rubber available for it as far as I know so it is a pain in the *ss to get real accuracy out of it. You can get a hopup chamber for a lot of money that uses AEG rubber but that will get only AEG accuracy tops. You should go for a VSR based system - like the A&K M24.

TL;DR? Well you're lucky then, because I've now made 2 videos: Behold The Rundown Of Ed’s EPIC ICS L85A2 Out of the box rifle specifications: FPS: 345, 370, 410 – spring tension is adjustable. Values may vary for each gun. Barrel length: Supplied with a 480mm brass barrel, of 6.05mm in diameter. However, up to a 510mm (M16, AUG, M14) length barrel will fit without protruding into the flash hider. Supplied with: Two high capacity magazines (470 rounds each) unjamming/cleaning rod and a pot of ICS .20g BBs Rails: Top rail – 19mm Hop: Unique design, no aftermarket hop units available for this rifle. It has its issues but it works well enough. Gearbox: Again, unique to the ICS L85, supplied with very solid gears, bushings, factory shimmed and all around, pretty darn good to be honest, it's also heavily reinforced. Motor: Comes with the godly ICS Turbo 3000. This thing can pull any spring you gear it to. So let’s get started. I bought the rifle back in December 2011 with the intention of making it look exactly like the one currently issued in Afghanistan. The first things to order were the replica Daniel Defence RIS made by Madbull, as well as the adaptor for fitting to the ICS L85, I then bought a grip-pod made by god only knows what company, I can’t even remember where I bought it from, but it’s a nice high quality product for the price, works flawlessly and looks great. Once those parts came and were fitted I needed the correct ACOG mount, so I ordered that from Ant-Supplies, as I was a little weary about ordering from RSOV in Hong Kong because of all the horror stories I’d heard about import tax and such. I already had an ACOG at the time and back when I started the project I thought that would do, later on I decided it wasn’t accurate enough to the real steel, so I decided to order a new ACOG, but that wasn’t until about 5 months into the project when I went to the Arms Fair in May. So at this point I had the gun set up with the DD RIS, grip pod, ACOG mount and an ACOG, but not the right one. Since the RIS was fitted I needed to start running LiPo batteries, issues arose at this point, the connector that comes with the gun is for a large Tamiya and there’s so much extra wire that I couldn’t come anywhere even close to fitting the battery in with a connection conversion lead. So I rewired to small Tamiya and cut short the cables so everything fit. I was happy with this set up for a fairly long time until I ran into issues at a skirmish at The Stan. The gun just died, like there was no battery connected and the trigger mech kept making a strange clicking noise. I finished the day using my MP5. Once I got back I looked into it and found that from all the stripping and reassembling I’d been doing to change bits and alter the spring tension for different site rules etc. had caused the connection pins that break the circuit when the receiver is split as a safety feature, to be pushed away from their contacts. They didn’t complete the circuit once the gun had been re-assembled, as they should have. So I bent them upwards, which seemed to fix it. To fix the trigger mech clicking I dismantled it, couldn’t understand what the issue was, re-assembled it, and now it’s fine… That seems to fix a lot of things in my experience. If something doesn’t work, take it to bits and reassemble it before you plan to do anything else to it. Since I’d been looking into the internals, I decided I’d start doing some actual work on them, this is the first AEG I ever dismantled, so that’s testament to how easy to work on it is. I knew I wanted a Tanio Koba Hop-Twist barrel, but I couldn’t find the right one anywhere on earth, so I ended up getting one for an L96 from Land Warrior for about £70. Since the barrel cut was for a sniper, the barrel retention pieces in my gun didn’t fit the barrel, so I had to decide to either mod them, make some new ones, or remove them altogether. I realised they weren’t needed for anything other than a better air seal, which I didn’t realise the importance of at the time, so I opted for full removal. This meant that the barrel had to be held in by friction alone, so I wrapped insulation tape around the barrel so that it was a super tight fit in the outer barrel, it was damn hard to get in and out after that. Now the barrel was done I went for the hop unit, I’d been advised to get a Madbull Blue rubber, and so I did. I also experimented with different nubs, eventually choosing to use the biro ink tube mod, so I cut it to size and used that. I ran with this set up for about 2 months until I noticed Red Wolf had the correct twist barrel in stock, so I immediately ordered one. This gave me back the bug for adding stuff again… I asked for advise on how to make the gun the best it could be (thank you Mr. Finius) and was told I needed a better hop nub and a new piston head (amongst other minor, home grown internal modifications that so far I haven't attempted). So I ordered a big-out H nub and a Lee’s Precision Engineering piston head, which has an air brake on it to increase the life of the internals. In retrospect the piston head wasn’t really needed, the only change I’ve observed is that it’s more difficult to tell when the gun is dry firing because it sounds similar to when it’s firing rounds, and it’s ever so slightly quieter. At this point I was running the same externals as before but with a new piston head, proper twist barrel allowing me the correct barrel fitting and the H nub. This is possibly the greatest combination of parts for any rifle if you want immense accuracy and even more immense range. I have my rifle set on the middle spring tension, which is about 350fps on .20s, I run it using .25s and I can comfortably hit a man sized target at up to 50m. Twist barrels are said to work best at under 330fps, so if you want to stick one in a sniper running 500fps, it’s fine. Just use .40g or .46g BBs to bring the fps down and your sniper will become a laser rifle… Well, minus the projectile speed. After adding those parts I started researching into the real steel a bit more, I found out that the real steel L85 was now fitted with a new flash hider, a different ACOG to mine that's equipped with a docter site, I also noted that the L85 was now issued with Magpul EMAGs and an LLM01. So I ordered all of that, and some rail ladders for good measure. Shortly after making this order I realised that the docter sight on the ACOG I'd ordered didn't look like the proper one on the L85, so a quest began to find one. I eventually found it thanks to a tip off from CKinnerley about BritKitUSA, so thanks to CK for the final, finishing touch. A lot of this stuff was in the post for absolutely ages, I ordered the ACOG from G1098Airsoft and they messed me about for over a month, so I re ordered most of it from RSOV. Whist it was all in the post I thought I’d improve the internals. My aim was to increase the trigger response, as it was the only thing letting the gun down. I looked into changing the motor, but decided that the ICS Turbo 3000 was actually an amazing motor already, which troubled me somewhat, how can I increase the trigger response time if I can’t just get a new motor? I decided to look into shimming the gearbox, the idea being that if the gears are more properly aligned, the motor won’t have to work as hard to turn them over, giving me a more efficient use of battery and motor power. I’d been practising taking guns apart and getting to know and understand gearboxes over the last couple of months, so I ordered a few packs of shims from Patrol Base and managed to shim the gearbox pretty well, it did give a noticeable improvement, but the trigger response still wasn’t good enough. So I’m stuck now. The gun’s absolutely flawless in every way, externals, internals, accuracy and range. But the trigger response is still terrible. I would say it’s the only thing I can hold against the ICS. I think the G&G L85 has a pre-cocking system, which would make the trigger response literally instantaneous. I’d pay a lot if there were a way I could have that in my ICS. Since I can’t think of any solution to this that can be realistically achieved I’ve decided to let it go. I’d considered getting an even better motor or switching to higher voltage LiPos but I don’t want an unrealistically high rate of fire and I don’t want to have to buy stronger gears. The ICS L85 also has a proprietary piston, there are no after market pistons available. Meaning if my set up shred one, I can never run the set up, because that’s the only piston I can ever have. My current thoughts are that if the target is far away I have the range advantage about 90% of the time. If they’re up close and personal, I’ll just have to switch to auto to deal with them, as that’s the only way to overcome the trigger response issue, I’ll just have to learn better trigger control and not get greedy. Running real caps means auto is rarely a good idea. Edit: Motor packed in today, before the ACOG, docter sight and wing mount have even arrived! So I guess we'll see if changing the motor can get me a better trigger response, I've got a Systema High Torque motor on the way, from Zero One... £85. Gulp. Still planning on swapping to Deans connectors and at some point completely rewiring it with low resistance wiring. If possible I'll also fit a Mosfet. My quest for better trigger response has begun! The first step on the quest was successful, the Systema motor came today and the trigger response has improved noticeably. The gun actually feeds more powerful, you can really feel the shake of the internals in your shoulder when you pull the trigger. I tried turning this motor over by hand before installing it and it was damn difficult. I used to think my ICS motor was difficult to turn over, this thing must be at least twice as powerful. The power of it makes me feel like I have to do something to reinforce the circuitry a bit better. Edit: Trigger response has been massively improved by getting a new trigger mechanism. There's a small pin in the trigger assemly that acts as a guide rod for the trigger contacts and mine had snapped in half somehow, but I didn't realise it wasn't supposed to be like that until the new trigger mech arrived. Trigger is absolutely spot on now, response is perfect, ROF is perfect. New hop hasn't really made any change, even with an AEG cut barrel the barrel retention bits still needed modding, so I just used the pre-modded ones from the old hop. The gun is shooting straight as an arrow though, accuracy is above average, it could still do with a few hop tweaks, but I'm going to skirmish it on Sunday and see if the parts don't just all bed themselves in a little better. I imagine consistency will increase through use. I also now have all the parts, so after I've skirmished it and have a bit of spare time I'll get some photos added... Though I might not do it until something buggers up. Once I've set the gun up I don't really like taking it apart to do anything apart from change the spring, 'cos the barrel assembly is an utter arse to get back together properly. It's really hard to seat the hop rubber correctly because of how tight the unit is. I've recently decided that I'm going to get an M140 spring for this to whack the fps up to 450, then use .36s or .40s and field it as a DMR. I'm pretty certain the internals can take it and I've already shimmed it to perfection, the systema motor could probably pull an M9billion so that won't be an issue either. I'll let you know how it goes. Anyone know how to disable auto? 'Cos to me it looks like you NEED the fire selector mechanism to be able to use semi, without it there's no way to engage the cut off lever... Might have to just hope my site trust me. Which I think they do. Edit: DMR plans fell through, somehow the motor is unable to pull even an M130 (I couldn't find an M140 in stock anywhere) so for the time being I've decided to just use it as a regular AEG, it running at about 360fps at the moment because my new spring is yet to bed in, but with .25s it's running around 320fps. If I take up the DMR plans again I think I'll start it by changing the ratio of my gears, as it stands I can't really be bothered to work out what ratio I'd need, or which gears will be compatible. I'm also planning to make an L129A1 DMR at some point over the next year or so, so there'll be no need to have my L85 at DMR specs. Edit: Currently it's August 2012, the gun is about 8 or 9 months old and has had approximately 20,000 rounds through it since I bought it, so various parts have been added and removed etc. I don't think I'll be making any vast changes from this point forward, other than replacing parts as and when they break. I'll write an update for this around this time next year and see how everything's holding up. Edit: Just a little update on how the gun's performing. It's now December the 11th, so within 10 days of the gun being a year old. At approximately 3000 rounds, or one pot of ammo per month, that means it's fired something in the region of 36,000 rounds. Everything is still solid and showing no internal wear at all on any of the internal parts - Except, the motor gear and whatever the name of the gear that the motor meets, don't mesh 100% perfectly, the angle of the slope on the motor's gear is slightly steeper than the corresponding slope on the 3rd gear from the piston in the gearbox. This is causing wear on the 3rd gear and the motor's gear, resulting in tiny little metal chips building up in the gearbox and a very, very slow rate. I've only cleaned it out once in about 4 months and the little bits I had to remove were akin to sand, or very fine iron filings. It does not appear to have any effect on performance. Currently I'm running it with a 6.01mm barrel which I initially bought for a 16-17inch barrel M4 project but it was too long (455mm) so I tried it in the L85 and I've actually been seeing much better results. I don't know whether it's because my twist barrel has been used too much and the "threading" I'll call it, in the barrel has been knocked by BBs too many times to be effective anymore, perhaps twist barrels can expire, or wear out... Well either way, running a Version 1 Madbull 6.01mm by 455mm tight bore barrel I have been seeing better results than with the twist barrel. In the hop I'm still using a Madbull blue rubber. I keep meaning to experiment with different rubbers, but so far the Madbull is a signifiant improvement over the standard rubber. Additionally, when using the Madbull a smaller nub is required, otherwise even with hop off, the rubber will obstruct the barrel to such an extent that it will overhop literally everything you shoot through it. The nub I use to overcome this is the same as I had before, a Big Out H nub. I've changed the spring to an M100. I'm now seeing the fps sit at around 360 in the middle setting using .20s and as per usual, I run it using .25s. The rifle is effective out to around 40m. By effective, I mean I could hit a target with one shot. As for hitting a target at all, the max range I've ever hit someone was round about 70m and required me to aim around 6 feet above the target and just spray on auto when they were unaware of my position, so as not to see the BBs coming in and move out of their path. For reference to its effectiveness there's my YouTube videos (link to my channel in my signature), all of which, bar one (or two if you count the one that isn't airsoft related) I use the L85 in. Aside from the barrel change, I also bought a new charging handle and tappet plate. The charging handle replacement was bought because the standard one had become so wobbly that I just couldn't deal with it anymore, tightening it to the point where the screw wore away could be completely undone by simply racking it once. Interestingly, the replacement charging handle was different in this respect, instead of the bolt handle being screwed into the fake bolt, it was screwed in and then welded in place, so it physically cannot move. I've had no issues since then, and regularly rack it back and let it go for the fun of it. The tappet plate was bought more as a spare because the part is proprietary and I didn't want my current one to break for me to then be stranded without one. Again, interestingly, the new tappet plate was of slightly different design. Testing it in the rifle showed no performance difference from what I can see, but what ICS seem to be doing, is in some way or other improving all the individual components, separate from the rifle itself. So you buy the gun and it comes with all the standard bits. But, should they fail and you buy a spare or replacement, the part you get is different to the one you broke, despite it being by ICS and for the L85. So it seems that ICS are making up for the fact that these parts are proprietary, by making the replacement parts better than the ones supplied with the gun, so that replacing parts when they break, is akin to getting an upgrade. I also readdressed the DMR idea. I haven't skirmished it with this set up yet, but I bought a new Madbull M120 spring and put it on the highest spring tension. This put the fps up to 380 (average over 5 shots) with .20s Couple this high fps with .30s - the same 6.01, madbull blue and H nub as with my regular set up and this thing shoots an untold distance. As I said, I've not skirmished it yet. But I did test it when I took it to chrono at another site (they wouldn't let me use it because they don't have a DMR rule... ) and the BBs were flying out of sight before I saw more than 1 foot of drop and I could clearly see them for at least 60m. So in short, should I ever skirmish this with this DMR configuration, everyone I see will be within engagement range the only downside, is that there is no way to lock this gun to semi. The fire selector which is linked mechanically to the trigger mechanism is required in order for semi auto to work and the only conceivable way to remove the auto function is to remove the fire selector. Since I can't remove the fire selector without losing semi and not auto, there's simply no way to lock it to semi only. Which in all likelihood will make it impossible to field as a DMR legitimately. I'll also update the parts list and overall cost to account for me now using a different barrel and having 12 Emags. UPDATE - 13th April 2013 Since the above posts, my motor's pinion gear shredded itself to pieces. Rather pleasingly, the ICS gears and piston are still completely fine, so that's some evidence that ICS parts are of comparable quality to Systema. I worked out Sherlock Holmes style that the reason the motor gear imploded was because the angle it met the gears wasn't right, and since there's sweet FA I could do about that, I thought I'd use this opportunity to buy some new bits and bobs. So in the post I had some Ultimate High Torque gears - in the hope that they'd meet the Systema Magnum motor's pinion gear at the right angle, a new pinion gear of the exact kind I'd had before, a Systema version 2 cylinder head, some new shims and probably some other stuff. It's getting too much to remember all the stuff I've done to this rifle now. In short it took roughly 50,000 rounds for this part to fail (discounting the ICS motor burning out) and it wasn't even a standard part. I now have it fitted with: A Madbull Ultimate aircraft aluminium, 6.01mm tightbore, of 510mm in length. The hop unit has a Systema standard AEG hop rubber in it, and a Big Out H Nub. I also managed to grab an aluminium hop arm off someone on these forums. The air nozzle is the stock part, the cylinder head is a Systema V2, for the piston head I've recently gone back to the standard one, as the Systema cylinder head's shape renders the LPE air brake piston head pointless. The piston itself, piston head and cylinder are therefore all as they came when I initially bought it. The gears are Ultimate High Torque gears, I think the ratio is 28:1 and the gears are helical. The gears have been shimmed. Lastly the motor is a Systema Magnum High Torque. I use it with a 9.9v 1000mah LiFe battery, Blaster .25g BBs, Magpul PTS Emags and an M100 (I forget which make, but I don't think that matters) With spring tension on full, this is possibly the most accurate, long range, skirmishable AEG I've ever known. Hitting a man with one shot at 50m? Piece of piss. I can see it reaching out to up to 70m with the barrel pointing up a fair bit of course. Anyway, here's a list of absolutely everything I've bought to add to the gun, externals, internals and generic parts, as well as parts I've replaced due to wear, or fault. If you want to know where I got any of it from, just ask and I'll help you find a place to get it. Update - 30th July 2013: So the helical 1:28 ratio gear plan didn't last very long in the end. Since the motor had to turn so many more times for me to get one shot off, rate of fire and trigger response suffered quite a lot and since my batteries are only 1000MaH, they were running out pretty quickly as well. So now I'm running with all the same parts as the last update, except I've got the original 1:18 ratio gears installed and I also picked up a Systema V2 piston head, to better compliment the Systema cylinder head. I've also bought and sold a few ICS L85s and L86s since the last update, and one of them went to a collector who just wanted it as a display model; so now I've got a complete set of internals spare in case anything goes arse over tit. The only thing I really have to keep tabs on is the motor's pinion gear, since the angle of the gears don't mesh with the pinion gear, they do gradually wear each other down. I might have to buy a load of pinion gears in bulk just in case it packs in unexpectedly. But aside from that, I'm happy with it. Maybe I'll think about getting some high speed gears just to make the trigger response even more epic... Still need to rewire it all to Deans connectors as well =/ I had an art teacher at school who used to say, "You can't finish art" It's TRUE! Argh! Base cost: Rifle £320 Externals and related: RIS £130 RIS adaptor £16 Grip-pod £20 LLM £70 ACOG and docter £110 ACOG mount £26 Docter wing mount £11 Rail ladders £60 Flash hider £25 Total: £788 Current Internal upgrades: Barrel Madbull (6.01x510mm tb) £30 Hop rubber Systema £6 Hop nub Big Out H Nub £10 Systema High torque motor £85 Systema V2 Cylinder head £10 Systema V2 Aluminium piston head - Left it too long to update this... I think it was £12, not sure. Aluminium hop arm £10 Total: £173 Grand total: £961 (Minus postage and additional costs below) Additional costs: Magazines: Magpul PTS Emags x14 = £280 Batteries: 9.9v LiFe x4 - £60 Charger: Basic LiPo/LiFe charger = £15 Generic internal parts: Shim set x3 = £12 Replacement parts due to wear or other fault: Trigger mechanism = £23 Hop unit = £19 Charging handle = £14 Pinion gear = £10 Butt plate (lost the screw from the back that stops the motor adjustment screw from altering through use) - £22 Overall costs, including everything apart from postage costs and ammo = £1,432 Oh and here's a photo of a real Afghan spec L85: And here's a photo of mine:

7.4v LiPo's fine, however you could compromise and get a 9.9v LiFe- I don't think they need a mosfet to avoid electrical arcing between trigger contacts

Or once you've finished getting the basic gear, save your cash until you're UKARA or site registered and buy a nice G&P you can put all the stuff you want onto?

I get what you're saying, but end of the day you can't look at the value of something like that when it comes to shipping, it's the size/weight, and it does cost to send stuff over the atlantic. Do some companies charge too much? Yes, but not all and MSM is one of the better ones I have to say. The MSM store itself doesn't actually carry the magwell slaps or mag wraps as that's all on the USNV site, but if you're after the normal shaped stickers from Monkey there's lots of stock in the UK. Pretty much everywhere that sells a lot of (decent) tac gear and many airsoft stores carry the stuff.

Dayum, the tactical tailor mini mav is sexy AF IMO, I'll probably role with that, a tight black plain tee and chinos, either skinny tan or dark green, up to whether or not I'll play in woodlands, I'll throw on a pair of Nike's for my first game or so. As for the gun, awaiting metiles response, all I ever see him post about is changing his gun xD

You don't need to buy one FROM Magpul. If you REALLY want a genuine Magpul get it from Midway UK (the link I posted) as this has already been shipped with all the correct paperwork. ITAR is a US measure to stop american made weapon parts being shipped outside the US. Unfortunately the blanket nature of the control precludes the sale of weapon accessories (like stocks, grips and sights) unless you can find a sensible/friendly dealer that will ship to the UK. £70 for a genuine Magpul stock is NOT expensive. It's also completely over the top for a CM16 when there's plenty of cheap knock offs about that will work just as well for you. (by the way - a genuine Magpul UBR stock retails nearer £350).

well the gun is apparently good according to lord metile. There is however, a starter pack for £120 that offers charger as well and a battery I believe, maybe even some bbs. You should probably get that

G&G combat machines are very good for the money.

For £15 (not including postage) you are definitely getting a cheaper quality product with this vest. The weave looks quite poor from the pictures shown. If you could give us a budget I'm sure we could find something suitable and of good quality. E.g. I purchased one of these about 6 months ago in black and it's still going strong. Not bad for £30 (including postage). http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/281321977195?nav=SEARCH

Try etsy.com for small sizes of Russian gear. If there's anything in particular you're looking for, tell me your measurements and i'll keep an eye open.

Might find it a little difficult to buy, they've been out of stock every time I've seen them

Second the TM recoil Scar H

The stock wont as you would need a milspec buffer.

They tap eachother. At least, that's what I've seen on videos and stuff. Charging someone with a knife is more fun than yelling "Surrender!", anyway, even if it's just to tap them on the shoulder with it. If I can't use that Bokken, than my assassin loadout will never be complete. But I guess it's still worth talking to site owners about it and showing them the thing so they can see what it's like. Let's hope at least one place will permit it. If not, then that rubber duck idea sounds fun.

nah, you'll hurt someone, you can use a rubber ducky to troll someone or better yet: If you can use anything as a melee weapon, use a dildo.

You should get one of those 8 inch tanaka's, fit a sniper rifle scope on it and you've got a pocket sniper rifle!

Tanaka = £££. Even Tanaka magazines are expensive, £50 for a long M700 mag and around £40 for a short.

Nonononoonononononono! TM revolvers are not the only ones out there! Plasticy revolvers are horrible. Tanaka make revolvers that hold 12 bbs in the cylinder and it's quite amazing how it works: Load the bbs into one of the chambers, spin it and it will load all 6 chambers, fire 6 shots, spin the cylinder and it will load another 6, fire away. Holds half as much but it's a tanaka, you can brag about it. less pew pew but more awesomeness

Considering how big you are mate, I'm not surprised you get lit up quite badly - you've got the "intimidation" look going BEFORE you pick up a weapon

Pretty much they are. But really revolvers are more of a novelty weapon due to their lower capacities - 24 shots with no reload option unless you're patient/quick enough to do it in the middle of a firefight. Most revolvers (the TM being an exception) will need modding to downgrade their FPS anyway. But don let that deter you - they're a lot of fun to use

thanks guys yes they didn't use the m60e4 in Vietnam but its a m60 none the less the outfit + webbing cost 80 pounds at john army surplus shop they sell ex British/duch army gear the real mc coy jacket £40, trs £35, webbing £125 etc so not bad i am saving up for the helmet coz that will b the icing on the cake

Drop leg holsters ONLY flap about if you're using them wrong. Prime example was the guy at The Malls at the weekend whose pistol was pretty much next to his knee. Granted the serpa/safariland styles are better as they have a rigid backplate that fits to your thigh but even then, most people have them set way too low and way too loose. My M9A1 (Socom Gear desert combat edition - all metal) is a heavy beast and it certainly doesn't flap about! The top strap on the drop leg needs to be pretty much scraping your nuts (but not actually - chafing is bad m'kay).

Thanks for all your responses - I think I'll probably just apply and remove the tape at the site. Since I'm new to skirmishing and airsoft in general, I'll be posting some more questions over the following months.

The rubber and barrel are VSR compatible so you have plenty upgrades to choose from. The other parts of it are good as they are. Actually you don't even have to change these at the beginning either. I think taiwangun.com or gunfire.pl has it. I don't know if they two-tone it or not.

you need a class 3r or below laser, ideally a class 2. The real issue with Green lasers is nothing to do with power or the colour exactly, in simple terms in order to make a green laser you have to use a more complex set up that usually starts with a higher power infra red laser, this is then converted to a lower power green laser (change to frequency / wavelength) this light then has to go through a filter to remove the more dangerous infra red also produced (although now at a lower power). They only appear brighter because the eye is more responsive to that frequency and so for the same power 'appears' brighter but that is in itself not more dangerous. some good reference material here http://www.hpa.org.uk/Topics/Radiation/UnderstandingRadiation/InformationSheets/info_LaserPointers/ M

> Vietnam Loadout > M60E4 > Wut?

It will be fine as long as you take it off before you leave.

legal issues - probably no breaking a law - probably yes much like cycling in the dark with a blinking lights (law says it has to be constant, but you're very unlikely to ever get in trouble over this.)

BACK FROM THE DEAD. POW. Over the last months at work, I've had a customer who refuses to pay his bill (I work at a storage center). Increasingly, he's been a nob to me, despite my best efforts to help him out of the deep hole he's got himself into. Today, he finally decided to try and pay his bill (although not the late charges and admin fees he owes, and even then, only half his bill anyway) whilst giving me some more abuse. I got to enjoy the look of despair on his face when I told him half his stuff had been sold for approximately £2000 and the rest had been crushed and then incinerated. I also got to enjoy him flipping out on the phone to his lawyer, because the stuff was worth over £35,000 to him and his company and his bill was only £2700. After that, I got to enjoy his lawyer telling him it was all his fault and that we had every right to go to debt collection for the remaining £700. The lesson? If you entrust someone with £35,000 worth of gear, and owe them £2700 for looking after it. Don't piss them off 'cause they have all the cards. Usually, I wouldn't bask in the joyous aura created by the misery of others, but this man deserves it and it goes some way to making up for the fact that my job is sh*t.

I think what he means is MR B stated "they're normal AEG's" and kiwi was joking around at how ironic MR B's comment was, as he has 3, soon to be 4 DMR's that are GBB

agree, though you have to think that thank goodness its an island population too so if the infection starts in europe we have a natural defence to slow it down getting here, unless they figure out how to swim ala pirates of the carribean style... inwhich case we are all in trouble no matter where you go...

When I eventually get a Lee enfield (probably my next gun purchase) I think I will have the best possible airsoft gun for a zombie related situation. Long heavy and capable of fitting a bayonet. An airsoft gun will not kill a zombie easily, a long metal and wood implement can cave in a zombie skull nicely and an optional long sharp thing attached to the front will work for melee with a long standoff distance. I shall probably got for an SMLE, the bayonet is basically a sword in its own right My strategy for survival would be to load up a bicycle with tent, and gear and get the hell away from population areas. The main benefit of airsoft weapons would not be defence so much as to deter banditry. Long term I will want a boat as the UK is too densely populated.