SSPKali
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Posts posted by SSPKali
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3 hours ago, HorribleSkrub said:If I get desperate enough I may just fill part of the dial cavity with epoxy to create a "hard stop" for the hop up. Either that or try switching it out with the one Guns Modify makes, but I'm not sure what else I could do. If anyone has any suggestions or similar experiences, please let me know.
I would look at using some electrical wire of a suitable size to make a hard stop in the hop wheel so at least you can dig it out and replace if needed 🙂Silicone covered wire of a suitable diameter should press in nicely and hold.
Before getting to that stage I would try putting a drop of water base paint on the exposed part of the hop dial and cycling the gun while it is still wet. Then stop and take out the bolt and see if there is any transfer. It has to be something either pressing on the wheel or vibrating it round and I am not sure that such a small, light part could be moved by such low frequency vibrations as the bolt cycling.
Let us know how you get on!
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17 hours ago, Tactical Pith Helmet said:
I can't stand the look of M4 style 9mm rifs. They just look deformed. A perfectly usable, well thought out platform, but just wrong.
Rifles with pistol caliber mags just look like those guys in the gym who always skip leg day 😂
I would add H&K MP7 - both the real and TM versions are great but they are so un-ergonomic to hold…and that is before people start adding a red dot….and a PEQ….and a torch….then badly Krylon the whole abortion
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Top tip from the weekend playing CQB at Gloucester prison - take a pistol sized speedloader full of BBs out with you and you have effectively doubled the number of mags you have for only a few grams extra! Easy to top up the mags on the walk to the respawn
TBH one in the gun and two spare on the chest rig would have been plenty. It is amazing how far 35rds can go when you make each one count.
I keep hearing about extra maintenance that GBBRs take. I timed my post game clean up (ignoring cleaning the barrel as AEGs need that too) and it was about 7mins. Much less faff than storage charging LiPos then recharging before the game!
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On 10/06/2021 at 18:46, MagpieTactical said:
Any modification needed to fit the magpul front end? I am already looking at Midwest industries Mlok for mine.
Also any more pics of the front sight mod. Sounds interesting.
Sorry for being a pain lol
Zero mods for the Magpul front end...drops straight on! Guess the Cyma must be 1:1 size on that at least!
Front sight mod below - 1mm x 6mm tritium vial from a fishing shop online. Simply clean the front post with alcohol wipe then very carefully super glue the vial on 😁
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- Popular Post
- Popular Post
Cyma CM041 HighSpeed finally finished (are they really ever finished?!)
Short stroked 3teeth, new air nozzle, ML rubber and nub. Gate MERF mosfet in the stock along with a HUGE 7.4v nunchuck battery...and space left over!)
Genuine MAGPUL fore end with TM grip and Olight Valkyrie torch. Vortex Crossfire red dot and a tritium vial on the front sight post for dark CQB / back up sights.
Obligatory Spitfire tracer unit with Airtac blastwarden outer cover and Ferro Concepts single point slingster (as H&K hate left handed people!)
- Jacob Wright, MagpieTactical, Skara and 2 others
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This is a job for TheSlowMoGuys... <laughs as the entire forum now spends their day watching the cool videos on their Youtube channel
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6 hours ago, AlphaBear said:
Did a quick lunchtime test using Abbey Predator Ultra gas on 0.28s. Ambient temperature was 22c/23c. Using a fresh mag partly full and shooting off 30 rounds the high was 314fps (1.28 joules and the low 299fps (1.16 joules). For 0.28’s the acceptable power is 295fps.
I’ll say it again... the recoil on the MWS is something else!
P.S. Disclaimer... No Nuprol bbs were harmed and crushed intentionally under my boots during this time. Why coz I don’t have any 😂
Just tested mine on ASG Ultrair and 0.32g BBs and the stock TM bolt and nozzle kit. Shed has been warm today so all at about 23-25deg.
Running a bit hot at 295fps with stock TM parts (should be a limit of 276fps!) DP lightweight bolt and nozzle / valve combo was doing similar FPS.
Swapped out to AG v2 nozzle (still the TM bolt) and got it shooting a nice consistent 262fps ish even with a fresh warm mag and gas. Plenty of option to dial up or down if needed.
Zeroed in the new Vortex Crossfire2 red dot with Unity clone mount as the old one is now living on the MP5 AEG (Blasphemy!) Although I had forgotten how much fun a GBBR was...probably run it on the 20th at UCAP VENDETTA.
- AlphaBear, Davegolf and Wild Weasel
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16 minutes ago, Druid799 said:
You been in a coma for the past 20yrs ?😳 😂😂
Unfortunately mate I can more than unhappily tell you from personal experience of dealing with the walking abortions that troop in and out of my A&E Dept everyday with the most bone headed injuries you could possibly imagine I’d say there’s more than enough totally oblivious to the blatantly obvious fact ‘what a piece of shit helmet this helmet is’ airheads wandering around out there who will be standing there waving a fist full of beer tokens screaming “take my money now !” .🤦♂️
Just when you think you have made something idiot-proof nature invents a better idiot. 15 years working with the general public I can confirm that they are, by and large, cretins!
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"Silent fill o-rings" are the ones you pop in to stop the air venting as you fill the mag. TM mags are meant to vent air as the liquid gas fills up, this allows them to hold more gas and work more efficiently.
With gas mags you should always fill for 1 second then stop, remove the nozzle, wait 4-5 seconds then fill for 1s again. Keep doing this until the mag is venting Propane from the fill valve (not just air)
If it is second hand I would spend some time taking the valves out (fill and knocker), giving it all a good clean and checking the o-rings for wear / deformation. Re-assemble with quality thick Silicone oil and try again.
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9 hours ago, Wild Weasel said:
Hey folks there's this lad on FB who is struggling with jams on his mws, I'm stumped could anybody help:-
Hello folks, I got a serious jamming problem with my mws. All stock.
Original valve ? Perfect.
Ratech npas valve ? Jam
G&p adjustable valve ? Jam
I already tried with an heavier buffer (g&p), heavier nozzle spring (a 150%) and heavier buffer spring (g&p).
I can't think about it anymore about how the fk is physically possible and why the fk no one has this problem with npas.
Comment:-
Already done: I tried with different bucking, different hop lever, different buffer, different buffer spring, different valve spring, different nozzle spring, different bbs. Nothing changed.
And when I put the original marui valve, it works like always.
It's some kind of japanese curse i guess
TY all
Various people have suggested this that and the other but none help, he needs an npas of some description otherwise he'll be over his field limit.
Any thoughts
https://m.facebook.com/groups/TMInfoGroup/permalink/1149603288876457/
Handily I can't post on that group as they have refused to let me join.
He doesn't say *what* is jamming? The bolt? The valve/NPAS?
Silver RATech will jam in a TM nozzle and needs sanding to move smoothly.
A quick and cheap option for him to try is to glue a 0.1mm gear box shim to the back of the TM valve. That will close the gap the gas flows through a tad and will drop the FPS. A bit trial and error but worth a shot!
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47 minutes ago, AlphaBear said:
To be honest it's a question of trying it and see what happens. I have a 3.5 which marries up to the CQBR barrel length. If I use the 4.5 or 5.0 the question
is will the valve let through more gas at it's minimum setting than say a 3.5 will? Buy one and let us know.. It's all a learning curve for everyone
I would have thought that the valves for longer barrels would let through LESS gas to avoid massive joule creep? I could be wrong and it wouldn't be the first time!
Maybe we need to club together to buy the low, mid and high and test them out on our set ups and pass them round to get a ground truth for them?
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20 minutes ago, GothicGhost said:
I am assuming the more expensive HAO m-lok rail dont need filing down by the front takedown pin area so the upper can open without hittting the rail?
https://www.haoptwart.com/product-page/hao-mk16-m-lok-handguard
I bought cheaper one from JK army but when I get a longer rail for my dmr build I don't really want to spend lots to have damaged it like my cheaper £40 one lol.
I can confirm that the Hao one DOESN'T need filing to fit
It is also worth every penny, how they make something so well. at that price is amazing.
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2 hours ago, TadsJ2 said:
Yes i am talking about this adjustable valve STOP. I am trying to use it in conjunction with G&P plastic nozzle which came with reinforced nozzle set, but I dunno, it just seem not to work with it...
Maybe its because my inner barrel is 410mm length? Well dunno, I am going away for vacations, will have to try more when I get back, somehow my TM MP7 is shooting as consistent as MWS does with G&P 5.0 NPAS set and all other upgrades (MP7 wasnt upgraded at all, just nozzle changed to reinforced one), just MWS is shooting further away, probably because of ~33FPS difference between them
I found the stop gave lower FPS (260fps?) on the "high" setting than the stock TM one. Mid and Low were noticeably less (220fps and 150fps IIRC?) This was with 0.30g BBs and a 255mm barrel
I took 0.1mm off the prongs on the front and it raised the FPS quite a bit (+30 to +50fps depending on setting) so only a small change in position makes a HUGE difference in the output of the gun.
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2 hours ago, TadsJ2 said:
Thanks, will try
Also @SSPKali would u mind doing a quick photo how did u install G&P adjustable nozzle piston? I have problems with mine, it doesnt give any adjustment whether i set it on high/low or medium setting and the sound after shot is really weird
Hey, it was the adjustable valve STOP, not the adjustable valve. The stop is the part on the end nozzle spring that has the thin screw go through it and hold it in place.
There are 3 holes drilled in it at different points round the circumference and they hold the stop at different depths. The little pin tool is there to align it before putting the screw in.
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7 hours ago, GothicGhost said:
I was doing some testing on my V2 mags and I don't know why but sometimes on a freshly gassed magazine the the very firsy shot the fps is lower and then it rises up and stabilises?
Probably because of a light strike on the gas valve due to the pressure in the mag. Once the pressure drops a little the valve knocker can open the valve fully = higher FPS.
7 hours ago, Captain Darling said:I use Geoffs .32 Bio tracers in my both my MWS and TM MP7 with no issues so far. .32 at 260'ish fps for CQB would be a dick move though, IMO
+1 for Geoffs
No issues with 0.32g in CQB, it is still the same energy as a 0.20g moving a lot faster 🤷♂️
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Might be worth speaking to your local airsoft store and seeing if next time they are putting an order in they can get a box for you and if they can do a bulk deal (as it will be in-and-out and not sitting on the shelf for weeks or months!)
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I had a packet of 0.32g that I meant to test. I ran some different BBs through my MWS last night to test the grouping and zero my sight.
I shot Vorsk 0.30g, Longbow tracer 0.30g, Blaster 0.32g, Valkyrie 0.32g and Guarder 0.36g at 10m from a clamped rifle.
Guarder were the most consistent (15mm square box) next best was the Vorsk 0.30g (20mm square box) but the Valkyrie were the worst with a letterbox spread of 35x25mm. Guess they don't play nice with my MWS. If I get bored I might try in my AEGs (M4 or MP5) to see if they react differently.
YMMV
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5 hours ago, Wild Weasel said:
I'm currently reverting back to stock for testing, I don't have a stock float valve anymore as I've butchered a machine screw through it for a DIY npas (my next test nozzle config). But I'm trying to get this mythical +/- 2fps between shots that people have been on about as mine have been anywhere between 2 to 9 feet per second variation between shots and about 13 to 14 feet per second variation over 10 shots with a good 1 to 2 second pauses between shots.
Currently I have reverted all my inner barrel components, new barrel, hop, bucking etc to try and sort my accuracy as it has deteriorated, and it is now to the point were I can hit a 325x325 mm steel @ 40m 9 out of 10 shots (50 to 90mm groups @ 20m) on propane with Geoff's 0.32g bb's and a six g nub on a wind less day. Now I want to further improve that by sorting the consistency to help with the vertical spread. In order to do that I have laid out all different nozzle configurations to try and figure out what works best with what I have and I was hoping you guys could try and point me in the right direction yet again.
I'm fairly certain there's a lot more that she's got to give, I'm just trying to figure out the best way to get there.
Any advice for what to look for with gas routers as they are original and untouched?
+/- 2fps on a GBBR? I call BS 😁
I am not sure all vertical deviation is due to fps fluctuations, I imagine that hop up and ammo will have a bigger impact on this. I tested mine at 10m last night and even with the fps changes I put 5 Guarder 0.36g BBs all in a 15mm square box. Other brands and weights (two 0.30g and one 0.32g) were up to a 25mm x 35mm box (sideways spread)
I would get some samples of BBs (both different brands and weights) and see which plays best with your set up.
If you want to DM me I am happy to post you a baggie of the different ones I have to save a small fortune on BBs 😁
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2 hours ago, Wild Weasel said:
Right folks I'm still struggling to get my head round consistency here but with regards to the bolt what is the best setup in your opinion for consistency here i.e. for standard TM bolt barrel, nozzle - I have bought a fair few options including npas, g&p three position piston stop, dp valve, TM valve with grub screw drilled through it (went through a little bit pissed) TM nozzle, guns modify drop in nozzle, ag v1 nozzle, TM piston seal, ag v1 piston seal (swollen), dp enhanced piston seal and a few nozzle springs.
I'm planning on using a new TM nozzle, TM springs, TM piston seal and the grub screw through the original valve first.
If none of this makes any difference I'm going to replace the gas router seals on my magazines
Any thoughts?
What spread of FPS are you getting now?
If it is much more than +/-10 (so 20fps in total) maybe look at changing something. Best to test in 20degC and pause between shots to avoid mag cool down impacting the test (and don't over fill the mag with gas!)
Everything TM with the DP valve gave me the best results and was +/-5fps vs +/-8fps for stock TM. Hardly worth worrying about!
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2 hours ago, GothicGhost said:
What would be the better option to reloading the magazine in the field out of the TM m4 speed loader TM or this adapter so I can use any speed load it seems TM MWS M4 speed loader adapter
I currently have the Nuprol NP XL 470 BB Speedloader Nuprol loader but it don't seem to work well at all, I don't see how the TM version much better as they look the same??
The tube loader you get with the gun works really good but I can't carry that around with me it's too big lol.
Thanks for advice let me know what you use thank you.
That adaptor just looks like a HUGE version of the little fold-down one you get on speedloaders.
Nuprol looks just like the TM one? So why didn't you buy a Nuprol M4 instead of the MWS? LOL 🤣
I have been using the TM one on new and second hand mags for 2+ years with zero issues.
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51 minutes ago, Cyberlawyer said:
Barrel length/bore size and an NPAS are all you really need to up the power to any level you can use in the UK.
A couple of my MWS also have an angry gun v2 piston head and an after market rocket valve spring, but that was just because the OEM parts had started to wear and it’s much harder to get new OEM parts than the after market ones (and they work fine).
I have a Mk2 AG nozzle and it seems much better than the Mk1 (even ignoring the piston cup that expanded then dissolved when in contact with *any* kind of oil!) Plus the new version of the Dynamic Precision nozzle seems better and not as brittle as the old shiny one.
FPS is within +/-7fps between 20 shots so on par with the stock set up.
Aftermarket valve springs (I think DP in my case) add about 25fps for 0.30g in my experience. Cutting a coil off them brings it back down to close on the TM one.
I have a couple of TM nozzles and valve springs (have a spare valve from Eagle6 already) on their way from HK as insurance against disasters / parts shortages. 😁
What have you made?
in Guns, Gear & Loadouts
Posted
Added some Velcro OneWrap to strap ends to keep them tidy and elastic with a 500d cordura cover to the chest rig waist belt to allow some breathing room…definitely not because I like pies 🥧