SSPKali
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Posts posted by SSPKali
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On 01/06/2025 at 03:00, Tactical Shadow ES said:
Hi there, Im new to this forum… 😎
I was hoping you can give me some advice on something. Can anyone recommend a good upper receiver for my MWS? I had to change my bolt to an Orga steel bolt because I dropped my original one and the Orga one was the only one I could get. Now the upper is getting more and more damaged as you can see in the photo. It still functions perfectly though. I however modified almost everything so I’m not sure if it’s just that I’m using a steel bolt and should get an upper made from a stronger metal than the original one, or if it’s one of the other modifications I made like the buffer, buffer tube, buffer spring, Zet plate etc…?
Does anyone using a steel bolt have the same issue?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
I think the issue here is the bolt is obviously out of spec (or not designed to work with the regular TM receiver…which sounds like a get-out clause!)
I would look where the bolt is catching and file off the bolt part, no point trying to alter the receiver or spend ££££ on an aftermarket one only to find out the same thing happens! Worth cleaning out all the chips and dust, won’t do any favours if that gets in the workings
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MWS mags without the “mod” will fire 120 rounds easy. That is normally a 12-14g fill of gas, easy to work out vs the weight of gas in the can. One can will be plenty for a days play, maybe take two if you are worried.
Cutting the silver tube down to cram more liquid propane in is a DUMB idea.
Pushing o-rings into the fill valve to prevent the “gas leaking out when filling” is a DUMB idea.
The Marui engineers are not dumb.
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I tend to wear my usual every day watch, not had it shot out yet but figure I would have to be really unlucky to have it damaged by a bit of plastic.
Elliot Brown Holton or Steinhart Vintage MilSub depending what I fancy on that day.
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1 hour ago, Adolf Hamster said:
that really does sound like the typical precocking tuning adjustment.
mosfets like the ab++/warfet run on timers, so essentially they wait for the cutoff lever to trip then add X milliseconds more runtime to the motor (which is what you set when you tune them).
if the delay is slightly too long, what can happen is the cycle settles in a different position each shot until that goldilocks position where it runs enough to fire twice. if your box has a window for viewing the piston you can test if this is happening by seeing how far back the piston stops each time, the behavior i'm describing it'll settle slightly further back with each shot until the double fire when it settles further forward and the process repeats.
having ab off with precocking can make things a bit more chaotic as motor overrun will happen naturally and can vary from just about everything you can think of (shimming tightness, motor, spring, piston tightness, hell even the grease viscousity or how warm the box is), indeed having too little overrun (typically active braking without precocking) is what give trigger lockups when the system stops too quickly. typically i'd advise ab and precocking together although if you're being conservative with how much precocking is going on it's probably ok to not have ab. you don't usually want ab without precocking unless it's a speediboi build that suffers double fires without it.
if you had the precocking really dialled in then i can absolutely see you going from perfection to just barely too long a delay just from a gear swap even if they're the same nominal ratio and shaving a tooth would absolutely do it.
sniper delay/dmr mode is just a rate of fire limiter, its only effect is to stop you firing a second shot if you spam faster than it's been told to allow, so shouldn't be affecting this.
that said, none of the above explains why it's happening with precocking turned off, but hopefully i've adequately explained why i'd want to be double/triple checking that it is definately off before testing for the behaviour. the other test is to change the amount of precocking, increasing it should make the doubles happen more frequently, reducing it should cure the issue.
Thanks for the extensive advice!
pre-cocking and AB are off and it rarely does it, turning on pre-cocking increases the occurrence. Not tried PC and AB together…I was under the impression that the AB++ couldn’t have both “on” at once (even if the LEDs said they were both enabled, only one was working?)
Having run it without the upper receiver on I can see the piston sitting further back each shot until at some points it double shoots.Just given it another test and it was good as gold! Bloody typical! Will still throw an old motor in just to see. Might try a new cut off lever and / or trigger contacts if that fails. It might be down to the cut off nub on the spur gear being a hair different and messing things up.
UPDATE: Just tried with PC on 1 / AB on 2 to 3. Still double tapping.
No PC and AB on 1 and no double tapping… but the occasional failure to cycle (sad whiring noise!)
Just fired 150 times with everything OFF and it didn’t skip a beat! I love transient issues!
Thanks for all the suggestions, will keep in mind if it starts playing up again.
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Thanks all, I am running a 300mm x 6.01mm barrel and 0.28g BBs.
Cut off lever is working fine and being tripped by the sector gear.
I am starting to think I will sell the Warhead motor and fit an XT or SHS one as this is only a back up gun and spends more time being used as a test bench than actual use 😁
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I have recently fitted some 13:1 Solink helical gears to my M733 build. Everything else stayed the same - warhead motor (mid speed one?) 7.4v via a Perun AB++ Totally flawless with the SHS 13:1 gears but a bit noisy, hence the helicals.
Now it has started double tapping every 20-40 shots. Tried turning off precocking, turning on “sniper delay” or using AB to no avail.
Stripped it down the check trigger trolly and cut off lever - apart from a little greasy gunk I dug out all working fine and shimming spot on.
Took one tooth off the pick up side to drop power a smidge (right on site limits with an M95!) and it is still doing it.
Any ideas?
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20 hours ago, SSPKali said:
Anyone else tried the G&P L Mags (46rd ones)?
Seem to be getting some very hot shots for 1-2 BBs then settles down. 285, 276, 263, 260, 258….
My TM STANAG mags give 266fps +/- 2fps.
Leaving the mag for a couple of mins and trying again gives shots around 266 which is what I was expecting.
I am wondering if a 15sec fill is too much and not leaving enough gas to liquid volume. They don’t have the TM style fill valves that vent the air, so I guess they also lack a fill syphon to prevent over filling?
Extra rounds and snappy recoil is welcome I just want a more consistent performance.
Ok, did some more testing and checked the fill and exit valves.
The fill valve is directly threaded into the back face of the magazine and there is no syphon tube so it is easy to completely fill the gas chamber with liquid propane (or near enough!) Meaning there is little gas available for firing a BB, and shots in quick succession lead to a drop in power due to it taking longer to replenish the gas pressure by boiling off the liquid propane.
8-10sec fill seems optimal.
The exit valves on one of the mags was a little sticky so I removed it, lubed with very light silicone oil, wiped the excess off, and refitted.
Much more consistent FPS and even gained 5FPS due to efficiency. I did the other mag and found it didn’t make much difference, but that one was always working better any way.
Hope this helps anyone else who gets the G&P MWS mags and finds some less than great performance.
- Jacob Wright and Nick G
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Anyone else tried the G&P L Mags (46rd ones)?
Seem to be getting some very hot shots for 1-2 BBs then settles down. 285, 276, 263, 260, 258….
My TM STANAG mags give 266fps +/- 2fps.
Leaving the mag for a couple of mins and trying again gives shots around 266 which is what I was expecting.
I am wondering if a 15sec fill is too much and not leaving enough gas to liquid volume. They don’t have the TM style fill valves that vent the air, so I guess they also lack a fill syphon to prevent over filling?
Extra rounds and snappy recoil is welcome I just want a more consistent performance.
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22 hours ago, ButcherBill said:
Please be wary about taking too much off, I don't see any wear on the bolt carrier, if anything was rubbing there would be signs.
It probably won’t wear the nozzle guide much as it will naturally roll the hop wheel and not scrape across it.
A non-destructive way of testing would be to put a long strip of gaffer tape in the channel in the upper receiver that the charging handle runs in. That will move the bolt down a hair and may stop the issue. Then at least you know the likely cause and can always peel the tape out after testing.
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I think the “gas key” is the nub at the top of that part that fits in the underside of the charging handles. Obviously there are slight differences between the firearm and airsoft M4 designs so not a direct comparison 👍
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1 minute ago, yojimbo said:
Are you talking about putting stickers in the bottom of the charging handle or in the upper where the charging handle sits?
If I file out the are you marked with the red circle, are we talking a 1 or 2 mm or more of a chunk?
(p.s. is this something you have experienced before)
Thank you again
Hao put the sticker on the upper left face of the BCG (opposite side to the ejection port)
it probably needs less than 1mm removing, best to take a little off and try rather than going mad with the angle grinder!
I have experienced it with certain combinations of nozzle guides and charging handles. The old worn TM guide and handle was bad for it. Once replaced and the sharp edge taken off the cut out I have had zero issues
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The part circled in red is the cut out for the hop up wheel.
To make more room you can either carefully file out some more or make the bolt carrier and nozzle guide run “lower” in the upper receiver. Hao achieves this with their BCG stickers for example.
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The hop seems to be adjusting itself.
This could be the nozzle guide on the top of the bolt carrier rubbing the hop wheel as it moves forward. There should be a small scalloped section, try fettling that a bit and see if that sorts it.the cup seal on the nozzle seems to be causing excessive drag on the nozzle (yes properly lubricated)
Some cup seals do that, the Dynamic Precision green ones are great and don’t do this.
occasionally an extra BB will just roll out of the barrel.
This is likely due to the hop being turned off by the nozzle guide. When the BB is chambered there isn’t enough friction to hold it and it rolls out. Tackle this issue last if it is still occurring.
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15 hours ago, AirsoftTed said:
Really cool. Been working on something similar with the Pentagon Rogue Jeans and hiking trousers, but with t shirts instead, sort of what you see US Army SF wear on exercise Robin Sage.
What IWB holster did you go with? I've got the Blackhawk "Junk drawer" for appendix carry.
Fobus IWB from Tactical Kit. Took some heating in hot water and work with sandpaper to ensure the WE G19 fitted properly and I could get the damn thing out again 😂
Craghoppers shirt was good enough for Obi Wan Nairobi so will stand up to anything I put it through 😎
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* Glock 19 in IWB
* Three spare mags (5.11 Defender jeans extra pockets)
* Torch
Plenty for CQB games if you don’t go trigger happy.
- Diemaco, KermitTheFud and AirsoftTed
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4 hours ago, DrFumbles said:
I'm hoping someone might be able to help, I've had a keyword search through the forums but can't seem to find anything relating to the current problem I have with my MWS.
I'll insert a full magazine into the rifle and pull the charging handle back to get it ready to fire. I'll fire one shot and then the bolt gets stuck halfway through cycling and won't fire any more.
The gas doesn't vent out of the magazine when this happens either.
I don't think it's the loading nozzle as the first shot ALWAYS leaves the rifle as it should. This happens with all of my magazines. The gun is stock and I'm using 144a gas.
First thing I would check is pull the bolt and charging handle out and check it and the inner of the receiver for sticking points, burrs and that it is suitably lubricated.
While it is apart check the action of the “hammer” and sears that they move and reset smoothly. Some GT85 or similar aerosol teflon spray will help loosen things up.
Then check how high the mag is sitting and if the mag gas router is catching on the underside of the nozzle or the bolt carrier. -
I missed the last one as I could not find any details and my emails went unanswered. Will look out for the next one as I have a couple of big boxes of kit to shift!
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I have found that Bolle Cobra glasses with antifoam wipe (Revision, as above) never fog with me (not that sweaty compared to some) Available in clear, yellow, grey and other lens colours for under £15 but they will stop 6Joule steel BBs
DeltaMike face pro for outdoor games, but after some cheek / nose shots <5m in CQB I have a NB Tactical Mk2 mask that I am holding in place with just some 4mm elastic and a cord lock. They will sell you a mesh snood / balaclava for £30+ but that seems to cause fogging and doesn't keep it as secure!
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Just now, Enid_Puceflange said:
Thanks for that
I understand the physics of joule creep, I maybe worded my original post badly, but I’m wondering why gbbr’s can hop a heavier bb than aeg’s can (without heavy upgrades to an aeg)
make more sense?
Ahh OK, I think that might be to do with the hop chambers, barrel cut outs and general build quality. Plus pushing 0.36g BBs in an AEG needs some BIG cylinder volume and spring pressure (same for HPA set ups, higher PSI and volume) and then you are still using a hop unit designed for 0.25g BBs at 1J....
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okay...this might be a long post!
With AEGs you have a fixed cylinder volume and spring speed. This is usually matched to barrel length / diameter and BB weight you want to use (others can chime in with formulas and typical set ups)
With a GBBR when the trigger is pulled the gas is vented down the barrel, and as there is a BB in the way it is at a high pressure. This keeps the rocket valve open and gas going down the barrel. Once the BB leaves the muzzle the pressure drops, the rocket valve closes and vents the gas backwards to cycle the bolt.
Now BB weight influences how much energy can be imparted to it (assuming barrel, gas, temperature, etc remain the same) If someone gave you a pingpong ball and a golf ball (same diameter, ignore the dimples, you are not throwing that hard!) and asked you to throw them as far as possible, which would go further? The golf ball, being heavier, allows you to transfer more energy into it from your arm. Light BBs tend to leave the barrel too soon before maximum energy is transferred to them.
So a GBBR with light ammo would be better with a much longer barrel (as it will have longer time to be accelerated, remember gas continues to vent until it exits the end of the muzzle) but would require more gas volume and still end up with less range.
So a short barrel will limit time to transfer power (which is why TM use 250mm barrels to suit Japans 1J hard limit and 0.25g BBs used)
Heavier BBs work better as they have the same cross section / drag as light BBs, can get more angular momentum (hop) and lose energy slower than 0.20g so go further. Time to target is negligible difference until much further out where 0.20g probably won't reach.
I have 0.28g and 0.32g for my GBBR, the lighter ones to "Joule creep" the power down on hot days. This is why you chrono on the weight you use as if I used 0.20g BBs it would be 0.6J, not the 1.05J the 0.32g give me!
- Impulse, Nick G and Enid_Puceflange
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On 13/08/2024 at 21:30, Mad dog 49 said:
I have the Federal Concepts one fitted to my Noveske (GM nozzle). It's much better than the RATech as it doesn't need wedging with a second Allen key or screwdriver to adjust. Easy as hell to fit, spot on consistency and it performed flawlessly over the weekend. Just remember to add a little threadlock to the grub screw to keep it from drifting and you are good to go. As far as I can tell, and having used a Jaeger Precision downgrade valve before the FEDA came back in stock, the JP will be decent too, but it looks like a direct copy of the FEDA which Federal Concepts took the time and money to develop, so if nothing else, I'd go with the Federal Concepts one every time to support developers.
But the Federal one is just a copy of the AngryGun one with the “pegs” at the back rotated 90deg to work with a regular valve stop. If it works as well as my modded AG one they will be more consistent and easier to adjust than the RA Tech ones
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I picked up a can of the new ASG Orange (164psi) gas to test yesterday. I have been running my MWS on the ASG beige gas for ever and just bought 6 more cans from Firesupport 😁
Testing was done in 20degC, averaged over 10 shots, with my MWS, mag #1 and 0.32g BBs. YMMV… in fact I am sure it will! This info is only an indication or relative output.
ASG beige: 261fps
ASG Orange: 267fps
They also do the green (135psi) and red (178psi) versions to drop or increase the power. I would GUESS around 220fps / 290fps….will confirm if I get to test any!
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Playing about mounting my Kywi pouches with 1” velcro one-wrap and with some off cut paracord made this quick access TQ* mount. Pull down on the red handle and it is instantly accessible.
Probably 1001 things you can do with one-wrap, need to order a big roll as so handy for strap / cable management.
*don’t buy knock off TQs unelss you clearly mark them FAKE. If you carry a real one get some basic first aid training (hint: very little of it involves tourniquets!)
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With some modification (cut a flat, file round circumference) the AngryGun NPAS can fit the much better quality GM or TM nozzles.
FPS consistency was much better than the RATech or G&P NPAS, looking +/-2 fps with 0.32g BBs and ASG gas.
Shame you can’t buy them with out the nozzle (although the v2 ones seem better quality plastic)
Gun picture thread
in Guns, Gear & Loadouts
Posted
Think I have the MWS just so now.
MWS
Hao 10.5 UGRI rail
Ambi charging handle
Magpul stock
Hogue grip
60deg fire selector (low profile on left, higher profile on right for manipulation shooting left handed)
Magpul Mlok sling mount
BCM rail covers
Magpul foregrip and hand stop
Olight Odin mini
no name mini suppressor inside hand guard
Vortex red dot and clone Unity riser
Ferro Slingster