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SSPKali

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Posts posted by SSPKali

  1. I replaced my trigger internals as the previous owner had filled it full of sand and never lubed it :( WiiTech internals are very well finished and high quality materials. Graphite lock lube FTW.

     

    The stock trigger as new is ok, probably on a par with the L119A1 I had a play with one time although my MWS jams less 😉

     

    My usual go-to comparison for triggers is the Weihrach Rekord unit in HW air rifles, and the Sandwell Field Sports tuned one the pinnacle.

     

    TL;DR until it breaks / wears out leave it be.

  2. 8 hours ago, gunbod007 said:

    GBBRs and Speedloaders?

     

    Hi guys, new to the GBBR world and awaiting my MWS arrival tomorrow. I may have made a fatal flaw. I didn't order a fancy new speed loader as I didn't realise there might be a problem.

    I am assuming it doesn't come supplied with one.


    Currently this is all I have. Am I going to have a bad time...?

    IMG_0819.HEIC 2.43 MB · 6 downloads

    There should be a tube-type speedloader in the box, failing that people (including myself) have had good results with the TM speedloaders, either pistol or M4 size.

     

    Firesupport have them in stock - https://www.fire-support.co.uk/category/bb-loaders--holders/?manufacturer=87&submit.x=15&submit.y=12

     

    Oh, and welcome to the club :)

  3. 17 hours ago, demandt said:

    @SSPKali awesome writeup regarding the WiiTech trigger parts. I've been eyeing them for a while now but have been undecided as to whether they are a definite improvement. Could you perhaps give a description of how you experience using the trigger with the WiiTech parts compared to the stock one. Is it a heavier pull? Better, more tactile wall and reset? A few descriptive words would be awesome.

    Due to COVID I haven't had much of a chance to use the MWS but my initial thoughts are that the pull is lighter AND smoother with none of the notchy feel the original (and rather well used!) parts had. Break point is crisp and predictable, you can get a feel for pulling it to 80% of the way and holding it while deciding whether to pull off a shot or allow it to re-set.

    The parts were pricy but worth it and the quality of finish is a whole other level :) Lets hope come spring I can get back out to play and give it a full work over.

  4. 3 hours ago, JamesHD said:

    Does anyone know whether the MWS take down pins are milspec or not? Looking to get rid of the slop between the upper and lower that's built up over the past year, but don't know if 'oversized' take down pins will fit or not. 

    just measured mine (TM front, WiiTech rear) pins and they are 6.16 / 6.17mm diameter. Hope this helps!

  5. 4 hours ago, Captain Darling said:

    I could also use some advice with upping the fps on my newly aquired mk18.  As a recent GBBR convert, I (possibly foolishly) hope to use my MWS as much as possible during the UK winter.  After testing 4 types of gas on Sunday, I was seeing unimpressive fps: around 300 on a .20 using Nuprol 4.0 at 9/10 degrees outside.  It's going to get much colder than this, and 300 fps is not going to cut it against AEG's at a 370 fps Stirling game.

     

    I am really enjoying tinkering with the gun, but have so far just done the GG mod to the mags, which has helped somewhat.  The magazines do not seem to be the weak link, and the winter gases are doing the best they can.  I'm building up courage to have the front end off, but I need to be very careful as I plan to sell the furniture as a TM complete mk18 upgrade kit, as I have other plans for the base gun.

     

    When I do get it apart, I have a 303mm 6.02 lapped barrel to try, and a nub and HSB from Dave on order.  In the meantime, I have borrowed a rocket valve from an old KWA MP9, and switched out the stock TM one.  After leaving mags in the fridge overnight, on Nuprol 3.0 on .20 bb's I chroned at 390 fps, then 380, 363, settling on 340 ish.  

     

    Impressive, but not skirmishable.  Angry Gun adjustable nozzle kits are out of stock everywhere, and when I asked a UK seller about MWS NPAS kits, he said that would not help, as it would not add fps that wasn't there to begin with?

     

    I have put the stock valve back in, but wanted to know if I can modify it to push a little more gas?  Other than this, I think I will have to order something from Hong Kong, but what?

    I would look at a Black NPAS from RA Tech in the standard TM nozzle. Easy to get 370fps plus on 0.2g and green gas. I run mine 80% closed to keep under 350fps (0.2g equivalent) with green gas on 10-15DegC days.

     

    https://emperionstore.com/npas-kit-for-tokyo-marui-mws-gbb-ra-tech.html

     

    Stay away from AG stuff, tolerances and performance are all over the place.

     

    Also: FPS does NOT equal range. Run the heaviest BB you can consistently lift, it will be "slower" but actually carry the energy further and give better range. Time to target is minimal (or huge if your BB never gets that far down range! :) )

  6. 5 hours ago, Wild Weasel said:

    Crap,

    Just found I've left my hammer cocked for 24hrs, should I panic and start ordering hammer springs or are they pretty resilient?

     

    Just spent my lockdown in 'shop mode all manner of small upgrade skulduggery an buggery -

     

    - Hao Econoline bolt.

    - Spare hao urgi barrel nut as the old one is tight as f#£&!

    - G&p complete drop in reinforced nose-all.

    - G&p buffer with tap washer spacers (credit William Hicks). Geissele type 47 tungsten buffer weight next month.

    - Modify Tan bucking

    - Dp precision enhanced sealing buffer.

     

    Any advice/comments on these parts welcome!

    Cheers

    16049310014272605105338715756807.jpg

    A spring won't change its spring rate after 24hrs, I have seen air rifles left cocked for years and still put out 95% of their original power 😁 The lost 5% was probably due to the grease turning into earwax over the years! 🤮

  7. 48 minutes ago, Hypokondrikern said:

    @AlphaBear

     

    could you tell me whether the brass rollers of the G&P bolt alters the sound or not? 
     

    There are some videos of recent G&P rifles that produces a ridiculously satisfying sound. A crisp, high pitch metallic hiss. I hope it’s only the bolt end and not some dark magic I have missed or can’t acquire...

    Not tried one of those G&P rollers but I wouldn't put much stock in audio from mobile phone videos, having posted and re-watched the vids I posted up there 🔝 there is a world of difference between human ears and phone mics

  8. 4 hours ago, n00b1982 said:

    Hi all,

     

    I'm trying to buy one of the sixg buns, but getting no response through the email link on the site. Can anyone point me in the right direction please?

     

    Thanks

    He can take a while to respond, but once he does it is sent out quick. Worth the wait.

  9. All good advice up there:

    Good quality ammo

    Clean the barrel

    If that doesn't make a difference check the hop rubber for tears / damage.

    If that is ok maybe look at fitting a new nub, possibly one with a concave curve to help centre the BB consistently.

    Also checking the hop arm for side-to-side play, and the hop unit fit onto the barrel.

    Good luck! Let us know how it goes.

  10. 1 hour ago, Davegolf said:

    @SSPKali nice work, whats the reset like? hard to visualise/see/hear in the vid?

    It looks extremely short reset.

    And likewise whats the wall like, is there a definite light pull to solid wall take up, then pull through to fire?

    So there is very little take up (due to much tighter tollerences) then a smooth, consistent pull until the break. No second wall or ramping up of tension as you near the break point. Still easy enough to half pull then release, but TBH in airsoft it is usually a quick, instinctive double tap, not a measured single shot at 1000m!

     

    Reset is shorter and crisper than the stock set up (which on mine was worn and pretty mushy!) But more of a 'thunk' than a 'click'. Can fire off 2 shots pretty quick, certainly easier than the worn stock trigger.

     

    If you are ever playing at a site near me let me know and you can have a play with it and see what you think.

     

  11. Epic post incoming!

     

    So I have fitted all the WiiTech trigger group to my MWS.

    I purchased this RIF second hand and it had been well used (to be polite!) and I had to give it a good clean out and service the mags as the empty levers weren't moving due to dirt/sand in them!

    The trigger box was in a similar state but after a strip down, clean and lube up it wasn't too bad, certainly nothing to write home about but better than it had been.

    Spin forward a year and I purchased a WiiTech marksman sear and fitted that...only to find that it didn't work (2 light strikes rather than a crisp break 😖) so I removed that, replaced the worn TM semi-sear and shimmed the sear, hammer and trigger pivots to eliminate some of the play and torsion binding that wasn't helping the trigger feel.

    Last month I splashed out £60 for a WiiTech hammer and hammer&sear spring kit from the great Fire-Support thinking that this might play nicer with the Marksman sear.

    I tried this with the Marksman sear and still had the same, dangerous, issues.

    So in a fit of crazyness I purchased a complete set of WiiTech trigger parts direct from the manufacturer, excluding the hammer and hammer&sear springs, but including a regular semi-sear.

    After 2 weeks and an extra £12 to ParcelFarce I had the parts in my hand.

    The material and finish quality is the same as the other parts; ie smooth, precision machining and black chemical finish.

    I fitted the parts after thoroughly cleaning the trigger box shell and the parts I was keeping in. I used some Graphite lock lubricant on the parts as I assembled them as it is meant to lubricate precision mechanisms and the "dry" formula won't attract dirt like oil or grease do.

    Top tip - wear gloves, it gets *everywhere* and don't lean too close when spraying it as it is a powerful jet and you will end up with a shiny face if not careful! 

    With the parts fitted I tested it out of the receiver (sans trigger pin) and there was a smooth, crisp pull and no slop. Reset was positive and audible, it not quite as crisp as the let off point.

    Once I had it all reassembled I tested it and hit the only snag...with the AngryGun ambi selector semi was full auto too 🙄😱

    I replaced it with the stock TM one and it worked fine, I think it wasn't allowing the disconnector to rise enough, I tried fettling it but gave up and stuck with the stock TM one. I shoot lefthanded but can still manipulate a right handed selector. Note self: Never buy AG stuff

     

    I have included a video below of a before and after video and one showing the trigger reset. I have also hosted the after vids on Instagram, search alex_random_76 :)

     

    In short, although it probably cost me £170 all in it is worth every penny. WiiTech trigger parts can go on the list with SixG parts, Hao Mk16 rail, RATech black NPAS and DynamicPrecision lightweight bolt that is titled "MWS upgrade parts that actually work and are worth spending money on" It isn't a long list 😁

  12. 3 hours ago, OrangeTJ said:

    There are tons of red dot options, but I can recommend the Vortex Crossfire.  I have them on airsoft and real guns and they work great. If they can stand up to many hudreds of rounds of what my 12 gauge shooting slugs dishes out, I feel certain that they could last 100 years of continuous shooting on the MWS. There is no lighting situation in which they can't operate and present a good dot.  reasonable price relative to the quality. 

    Don't forget the lifetime replacement if it gets shot out / dropped / run over / eaten by the dog 😁👍

  13. 2 hours ago, jsmithski said:

    So shimming the trigger box did not help? You said it works fine now.

    It certainly helped, and the trigger worked ok but the edges of the sears were still worn...and I love chasing incremental improvements 😁

  14. 2 hours ago, jsmithski said:

    Regarding the trigger, I did disassemble the thing, polished all rough surfaces I could find (scratched due to friction) and relubed (ptfe grease). I do not notice any change in the trigger pull though, works just fine so I guess it’s just the design that sucks a bit. I also noticed that moving parts are silver-like coated but the coating can easily chip off, again this is probably low quality stuff.

    I have a complete set of Wii Tech hardened steel trigger parts on their way, I have the hammer already and the material and finish is much better than the stock TM stuff.

    I will post details once I have it all fitted.

  15. 51 minutes ago, AlphaBear said:


    May I ask, are your MWS’s stock internals?
    And is there a power increase with Nuprol 3.0? 

    I tested mine on Nuprol Red at the weekend, about 13-15deg and the standard TM valve. I was getting 30-40fps over ASG Ultrair green gas.

     

    Ended up refitting the RA Tech NPAS and will run the ASG gas at the weekend and save the Red gas for <10degC days.

  16. 36 minutes ago, AlphaBear said:

    Chaps, is the bolt carrier group the same dimensions for all the MWS models. I’ve got the CQBR version so wanted to confirm that if something says compatable with MWS M4A1 it means by default CQBR too. 

    Yep, only difference is the length of the outer barrel and the stock.

  17. 2 hours ago, occidio said:
    Have others experienced that they can not lift .43g bb´s? w. Maple Leaf rubber?
    I have tried  with maple leaf autobot and MR rubber and with org nub with a cord inside to make it hard and with the maple leaf nub. in 2 MWS rifles
    It lifts nicely .36g with the hupup about halfway. I can see the hopup comes further down when i adjust it, but it's like that the bb dont get more back spin, does the BB sit so far forward in the chamber that it does not hit it properly? Does anyone have an idea?

    A SixG brass nub would be for first suggestion, eliminate all squish from the nub.

    What durometer rubber are you running? Maybe worth trying a harder or softer one?

    I have never run anything over 0.36g so can't offer a definite answer sorry! 

  18. Update on WiiTech Marksman Sear debacle....you know the one where it light strikes the gas valve with the safety on or when you release the trigger to reset! 😱

     

    I bit the bullet and purchased a Wii Tech MWS hammer and hammer spring set from FireSupport. I figured the old hammer was worn and not playing nice with the precision WiiTech sear.

     

    It turned up in the usual fast time and like the sear was really well machined and finished. It will be interesting to see how the polymer roller does as this apparently is kinder on the bolt.

     

    I fitted the hammer, sear and springs and took out all my previous shims to ensure a fair initial test.

     

    Guess what? It did it again 🤦‍♂️ Seems that the act of the trigger resetting in semi allows hammer to creep up the face of the sear and push the valve knocker 1/3 of the way out. A subsequent trigger pull fires it the remaining 2/3 and drops the FPS output.

     

    I took out the sear and fitted the original TM one, this time it was working fine. I shimmed the trigger pivot and sears again to remove play / torsion and re fitted it all. The reset was a bit mushy / indistinct but I think the trigger plate / disconnector springs are a bit worn...most importantly it is working as it should and safely!

     

    I have ordered a regular semi auto sear (and all the other trigger box parts!) from WiiTech HK and will let you know how I get on with these, I think I just got unlucky with the Marksman Sear or it is *really* picky! At the end of the day I just want a smooth pull and reset I can feel, not a super precision sniper trigger!

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