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Sigh’s……”Gunbillical chord” 😄😘

No it's not - i have gas guns and i'm a shit player. 😂

No prizes for guessing what ls on my TV tonight 😂

Not 100% finished yet as I'm waiting for a couple of parts but thought I'd share the progress so far of my KS-1. how it started.

Couldn’t help myself I had to ask him, didn’t I 😊

Hi guys. So instead of clogging up the standard pics thread, though it was time to do a separate one specifically. So this is for any weapon that has/ is seen in use with UK forces. This is open to anyone wanting to show off builds or get knowledge on the specifics of a British weapon, and so forth. So I'll start. My collection so far. L9A1 MK2 BROWNING L9A1 MK3 L9A1 MK3 DS L105A1 SIG 226 L105A2 SIG 226R L117A1 SIG 229 L131A1 GEN 4 GLOCK 17 L22A2 L85A2 AFGHAN 09 L85A2 TES L85A2/L123A2 UGL L85A3 L86A2 LSW L1A1 SLR L129A1 SHARPSHOOTER L115A3 AI338 L119A1 CQB L119A1 SFW COLT MODEL 725 COLT MODEL 715 COLT MODEL 701 COLT MODEL 604 COLT MODEL 603 L2A3 SMG L91A1 MP5SD L92A1 MP5A3 L74A1 M870 L128A1 M1014 L101A1 HK53 MC51SD G3A4 L1A1 66mm LAW66 L7A2 GPMG L108A1 MK1 MINIMI So first up we have both the shotguns. The L128A1, which is a based on a M1014 combat shotgun. This was brought in during operations in Afghanistan, and I believe it's still in service. This model is the cheap DE m56 model. I am planning on doing some work to this to make it a bit more realistic and less plastic looking. Plus just waiting on someone to do a metal body version. I know cyma did, but front end was wrong. Next up is the L74A1, which is an M870 shotgun. The SAS used both the short and long versions. Was brought in around the 80's and was still seen in use a few years back for door breaching in Afghanistan. This model is the G&P version, and I've added the folding stock and torch handguard. The standard end cap was removed and replaced with a genuine one that allows a sling swivel onto it. Some work to do in this too, but the quality is far superior to the DE. Next on the list is the 2 Sig P226's. One is the L105A1 and the other is the L105A2. The difference between the 2 visually is the A1 is the non railed version and the A2 is railed. The A1 was used by the SAS in the late 80s to early 90s. The A2 was brought in on a UOR (Urgent Operational Requirement) when we went into Afghanistan. The MoD at the time were looking at replacing the ageing browning HI power for something more modern. But the tender hadn't been released. So the sig was used as a quick fix for a short duration before we finally opted for the Glock 17 Gen 4. Both these pistols have full guarder kits and steel outer barrel. The railed version has the full tune up kit and steel external parts. The non railed is still to be worked on. The A1 boasts a real surefire torch, real early west german grips and early style sig rear sight. Both surefire and grips took alot of work to fit. Only work to do on these is on the uppers. Both of these unfortunately are U.S marked, where the British ones came straight from sig Europe. So trades will be filled then possibly cerakoted Still in the sig family, is the L117A1 or P229. I have very little info on these pistols other than was used by SAS and close protection teams. But have no pics of these in action. With mine, nothing special to report on this at the moment. It's just a box standard WE. I will be looking at getting correct trades done lown the line. But as no pics about of the 229 in service, it's hard to say what those trades are. But I would guess european/ West german, same as the P226 came with.

Gas Gas Gas ! I pretty much only run GBBR's now. I took my aeg AK to the last game day and even ran it for a game, but it just felt so 'Meh' compared to the gas ones. Mine are a mix of brands, I have several WE's and a couple of VFC's ( there is a DE Noveske under the tree for tomorrow) . I never feel out gunned, just adjust play style to suit and then double tap the spray and pray bunch . I generally run 5 or 6 mags and a speed loader for a game. 2 plus BB lodas to a gas fill gives me between 300 and 400 rounds which is ample. Heavier BBs work well on GBBRs, I run .30's for a good compromise on weight and cost, but they will all happily run heavier. Playing in cold weather just requires good mag management to keep them warm. I use green or red gas in them depending on temperature, although the VFC M249 now runs pretty much exclusivly on CO2 . Maintenence wise , they are simple to work on and it's usually just a strip , lube and barrel clean after a game day. Mine have all proved completely reliable , I cant remember having a failure that wasn't my own fault. No AEG will ever offer the level of imersion that a GBBR does, but you have to want that play style.

Bits from Fire-Support. Parts from weapons762/ebairsoft aka the artist formerly known as ebaybanned. Stuff from 18airsoft. Things from WGC. Honestly, didn't expect the TTI Glock mag to be gas tight on arrival, but surprisingly it is. Was a lot cheaper than my Guarder lightweight/aluminium extended mags and might even be a tad lighter. Not a realistic mag replica but comes in various colours and functions in my VFC and TM Glocks; pretty good deal. If it holds up long term I'll really be impressed. The carbon fiber bits are the most stupidly extravagant purchases I have ever made for my RIFs, not a smart move but I'm just out here min-maxxing certain things what can I say. If anyone can guess my current build project they win.. absolutely nothing because it should be an easy guess 😂

If the way you mostly enjoy the game is going for the objectives and trying to win, then a gun with comparatively tiny mag capacity and a more significant logistical train won't help. But if you just enjoy being out and pew pewing at folks and everything else be damned, then the more realistic gun will add a lot to that (though maybe not so much in the winter..) Looking at your specific personal situation, I don't think 1 AEG and 1 GBBR is necessarily the best move. To me, that's a lot of extra shizzle to cart along to every game with mags and power sources not being compatible between your 2 guns. Some people will find that totally worth it of course. The pendulum has massively swung on the whole GBB rifle thing of course and right now it's all the way on the gas side, but I think 2 decent AEGs makes the most sense for playing this game, a base line as it were. Especially if said 2 RIFs can share mags, batteries and BBs.

Never ceases to amaze me that sellers will demand a fantasy price with absolutely no details, and then cry about "time wasters" as though it's buyers' fault for not being able to read their minds and use remote x-ray vision on the internals.

Australian Glock.

For maintenance, all I need to do is clean and relube the bcg Clean the barrel properly And use a silicone free gas, just making sure I lube the seals every now and again I find them a lot less fiddly than aeg’s to work on Gearboxes scare the living shecht out of me (probably why I’m still sitting on a spring that I want to upgrade on my only aeg)

I'd agree with @Enid_Puceflange. I adore my GBBRs, I just find them so much more satisfying to use. I had a day at UCAP earlier this year when I peaked a few corners with one shot, one hits. However you do really have to keep on top of maintenance otherwise they can be a nightmare. I'd say if you're not comfortable 'teching' on them yourself, then be prepared for them to be pretty expensive ownership experiences.

@Emergencychimps Yeah, I know where you are coming from I had similar issues when I started off with my ghk m4, I had to learn the hard way and also read up loads regarding tweaks and fixes. (it was actually sold to me as boneyard, but just hadn’t been cleaned or maintained) Feedlip issues, small bits off bb’s smashed into where the bolt rest in battery Loads of things can affect a gbbr’s operation, and if you don’t really know what’s going on and the small issues that occur, it does lead to frustration. More than a few times I had threatened to sell it and get a nice aeg due to issues. Once I had learned my way around it, and the snags, replaced a few parts including discovering micro cracked feedlips (which were replaced with aluminium ones ) I got it running flawlessly. To the extent that I was able to get a game out of it in almost freezing conditions. My Ghk 553 has run flawlessly Fitting an npas allowed me to run it at indoor velocities, this was in January in an indoor unheated warehouse, with snow outside. I think if the OP is willing to put the time in to learn the platform they are wanting to use, and iron out the “quirks” They will have an enjoyable ownership experience Probably like owning a TVR and expecting to just daily drive it But to answer @Reef No, I don’t regret using gbbr’s 😄

Look forward to see them showing up in Macks tread. Rare custom Khyber pass Glock 19.

All of my AEGs are in boxes since I moved to GBBRs; if I'm not using a bolt action, I'm using a GBBR. Never regretted the move myself as I love the realism and manual of arms. Then again, I am the type of player who puts weighted plates in their plate carrier because immersion (my weighted plates weigh roughly mid way between level III and IV UHMWPE plates at 2.1kg each) and then also sticks heavy GBBR mags into said carrier. I have 3x MWSs, 2x KWA mp9s, a TM AKM and a KWA mac11 and they're all fantastic. Moving to a GBBR you will be outgunned because a 300rd high cap in a full auto AEG is a lot more pew than a 35rd GBBR magazine that weighs a lot more and gets very inconsistent with too much fun switch, especially in winter. You will run out of ammo and have to reload mid firefight. People will push you while you're reloading. However, this is all part of the reason why I enjoy it so much. It's an added challenge, but it's that similar feeling as when I'm using a bolt action; every hit you get feels so much more fulfilling than with an AEG because of these limitations you're dealing with, and the recoil does feel fun and always makes me smile. Also, hitting a "switching to your pistol is faster than reloading" kill when you're being pushed during a rifle reload feels great and makes you feel like you're the main character of an action film. I am biased. Embrace GBBR.

Aye, but elite shit...

😐 I think i fired about 600 on my last game day.

Id be interested to see your loadout when you can take a picture

No photos but I carry a drum in the pew, and a second drum in the buttpack of my 6sh116. Gives me 5000 rounds roughly which is more than enough for a full day.

@Nick G that’s a glowing recommendation. I think I’m sold on getting one and giving it a go.

Gas is for the elite players 😂🤙🏽. I got a MWS & it’s epic. You pick your shots & don’t waste ammo. Makes getting kills much more satisfying. I run 5 mags & that seems to be plenty. I’ve done the gas mag mod so they hold more gas now & carry a speed loader to top them when I respawn. For a MWS you need a couple of upgrades that aren’t that expensive. downside is the mag cost & cold weather. Looking at £50 a mag 🥴. I’d recommend getting some spare parts the nozzles is the main issue on them. You can buy a new drop in nozzle as a spare so if you run into any issues just swap it out. Just got a TM MP7 so going to be using that next game day cannot wait !

Don't regret it at all. I also used to hpa all my gbbr's (not by an adaptor, but making my own dual stack mags) but have now given all that up and gone just gas. I have a saiga 12k, AA G36 and now a ghm9. Ill eventually get an aeg for those really cold days, but nothing has got my attention more than another GBB! lol

Spent a successful (hopefully) 3 hours, stripping my ngrs down for the first time, to clean and lube internals and fit an Eagle6 m100 spring. Followed the most in depth tutorial, made like YEAAARS ago by Eagle6 Such a breeze to work on compared to the last aeg I took apart which was an ICS. But for sure, some of the tips in the video, made the job so much easier than if I had just jumped in without watching 👌

I use GBBR on HPA. Best of both worlds for me coz it's cost efficient and temperature doesn't matter. It's not as fun as a vanilla gas gun because it donesn't lock back on empty and reloading is less tacticool but I don't care personally. The other thing with gas guns that I'm not gonna spend another 500 pounds on 8 gas magazines each time I buy something it's ridiculous...

Reasons to own a GBB: All of it Reasons to own an AEG: Mag-dumping tracers

100% nope

Your asking people here to help you break the law, not happening. I'm redacting & locking the thread, put another up like it & you'll be banned.

IM AN IDIOT, DONT HELP ME BREAK THE LAW & CAUSE PROBLEMS FOR GENUINE AIRSOFTERS.

Happy Christmas to all forum members. I hope you all get what you wish for. Have a good time🎉👍 Regards

https://www.usedairsoft.co.uk/rif-s/ssrp90-smg_i72150 Another "fully upgraded" but not specified job, for 400 of your Sterlings. I'm not saying it couldn't possibly be worth it though I'm curious what parts were upgraded. Are most of the mags the sought-after Krytac 50/200-round magazines or are they those terrible high-caps? I can only tell the one with the faux rounds looks like the 64-round mag.

It will be slightly proprietary, as its an internal magazine. Similar to the vfc m249, but with the choice to buy a jungle tin if you want an actual box mag. I just hope they get it right. As I have been involved in this from day one. Infact it's my GPMG that has been used for all the measurements and all my info I've gathered over the years for them to get it right. Yes there maybe teething problems to start. As theyre hoping to have the prototype finished soon, and a working video of it shooting in next few weeks. (And no, I'm not affiliated with Dave. But I was sort out to help by both him and lambda with this, as I built my own gpmg from scratch. Hence I know what's gone into this project.)

Yes and No. I have had a GHK v2 M4, a TM MP7 and a TM MWS and now I don't own any of them. I still have TM recoils that I bought around 10+ years ago. The GHK, I just had regular misfeed and issues with and it ruined at least 3 day games, games are precious for me, I am a dad to young kids and I don't get to go often, so I couldn't stick with it. I am sure with some fettling it could have been great, but I didn't have the time or the will. The TM MP7 was awesome, I wish I still had this, I had no issues whatsoever and 40 round mags and size meant carrying a few extra was easy. It also convinced me that the GHK problems were that it was a GHK issue, not a GBBR issue. As such I sold that and got a TM MWS, put around £1000 into it (mags, rail, hob nub etc, nothing to change anything significant) and again, had problem after problem with it so I gave up on gas guns. The nozzle arm thing got bent, mis feeds, gas mags venting, mags not taking gas properly due to metal nozzles on gas cans. Again, with some fettling or knowledge, this is probably easy enough to overcome. Having the knowledge and spares available to make adjustments on the day is key too. I was too hot to run on some days, even with the weakest gas. I have just picked up a GBLS DAS (not used yet). The mag capacity was never the issue, I currently run a ngrs with the 82 round mags and will be running 60 rounders next. The tactile nature, feedback, fun when shooting etc of a gbbr is awesome but I just found the inconsistency when actually pulling the trigger, the percentage of times it didn't work was too high for me.

L108A1 MK1 MINIMI. Mine is a take on the minimis used by the ill fated SAS team "Bravo two zero" during Gulf War 1 The pic below is their actual weapons that were captured!. The weapon system itself was just a standard Mk1 minimi. You may notice in the pics there is one difference! it was fitted with a gpmg flash hider. Which was also adopted by the Australians on their minimi's. (Designation F89) The L108 was only ever really used by the SAS. It was some years later before the minimi would become issued among the regular army. But that was the PARA version which was later designated the L110A1/A2 However the L108 was, and believed still is held in stores. My L108 is an original TOP M249. Has been upgraded externally with Guarder steel gas block & front sight, guarder steel upgrade body parts, guarder steel barrel/top cover block, g&p steel cocking lever, g&p steel bipod. Replica steel gpmg flash hider. I will eventually get round to doing internal, and convert the original gearbox over to a classic army one. Was then sprayed and weathered. L7A2 GENERAL PURPOSE MACHINE GUN WARNING.... EXTREMELY LONG READ!!! I've tried to keep this as short as possible without losing too much needed info. An even deeper version will be done at a later stage, which will also focus on the early FN and newer HK versions. This is a complete custom build, made of full steel, and is currently 99.9% accurate to a real L7 I know that for some of you, who have seen some of this build before, we’re covering old ground - but please don’t run away just yet! Now, with the final piece of my puzzle, an accurate custom made steel barrel arriving. I've decided it was time to sort it all out, and refresh the build for a more informative experience. And to help explain why the L7 isn't just another M240..... Also, having done so much research over the course of this project, I’d thought it was time to share some of what I’ve learned and hopefully shed some light on why the changes I’m making were necessary. I’d also like this post to be able to aid others in their builds, and to hopefully shine a light for those with a particular eye for detail upon the things that might otherwise be overlooked. So, let’s begin. The basis for this project was originally an Inokatsu’s M240B. However, over time, this changed, and I had to have a completely new body and barrel made due to the amount of differences. The old inokatsu bits ended up being used in exchanges of parts. So as I got thinking about making a British variant, I did decide to do a bit of light reading (so I thought) - and I was completely astonished by just how much history surrounds the GPMG. So, for the history lesson! THE FN MAG 58 The first Fabrique Nationale d’Herstal (FN) MAG was designed in the early Fifties by a guy called Ernest Vervier. It combines the trigger mechanism and belt feed system from the WWII-era German Maschinengewehr 42 (MG42) with a more updated take on the gas-operated mechanism from the WWI-era American Browning Automatic Rifle (M1918 BAR). It was called the MAG 60-20, later the ‘MAG 58’; MAG being the acronym for "Mitrailleuse d'Appui Général’ or “Mitrailleuse á gaz”, French for ‘General Purpose Machine Gun’, and “58” denoting the year production commenced. The 3 primary MAG variants were: • MAG 60-20 Infantry version • MAG 60-30 Fixed aircraft version with either left or right feed • MAG 60-40 Coaxial version Specifications: • Calibre: 7.62x51mm NATO • Action: Gas operated, open bolt • Feed: NATO M13 ammunition belt or the non-disintegrating DM1 • Weight: 10.9kg (24Ib) • Length: 1,232mm (48.5 inches) • Rate of Fire: 625 - 900 rpm • Muzzle Velocity: 838m/s (2,749ft/s) • Range: 800m (2,625ft, light role) - 1,800m (5,905ft, sustained fire role/tripod mounted) THE L7 The original British variant of the MAG 58 (technically the MAG 60-20 T3), the L7(A1), was brought into service in 1957 and produced by FN. Then in 1962, under license by FN, the Royal Small Arms Factory (RSAF) in Enfield Lock, took over production making further improvements and incorporated into the L7(A2) (MAG 60-20 T6). In 1984 the RSAF became Royal Ordnance Plc., which four years later was bought out by BAE Systems, resulting shortly thereafter in the closure of the original site. After that, it fell to several sub-contractors, notably Manroy Engineering (now FN UK), to oversee both the production of spare parts, and general refurbishment of the GPMGs until mid-2008. In late 2008, Heckler & Koch were given the contract to produce all spare parts and accessories, having had the task of producing new barrels for the gun since 2003. In 2011 HK won an additional three year contract for a mid-life improvement program (MLI). In 2008-09 the MoD solicited tenders for manufacture and support of the GPMG; by this point the original design copyright owned by Fabrique Nationale d’Herstal had expired. The three main respondents were HK, FN, and Manroy. The tender required the entrants to submit guns for testing, with HK’s version being the most publicised. Finally, after years of testing in the laboratory, training and in the field, in late 2014 the MoD announced that HK had won the contract to produce the L7s and their spares for the next few years. The L7 GPMG, nicknamed “the General” or “the Gimpy” (pronounced ‘Jimpy’), has seen every British military engagement since entering service, including action in Aden, Borneo, Rhodesia, Northern Ireland, Oman, Falklands, Bosnia, Kosovo, Sierra Leone, Afghanistan, and Iraq. THE MAG 58 WORLDWIDE Over 200,000 examples of the MAG series and other variants have been used by more than 80 other countries over a similar period under different designations. For example: • Austria - 7.62mm MG MAG/Pz • Argentina - 7.62 ametralladora Tipo 20-60 MAG • Brazil - M971 • Canada - C6 • India 7.62 2A1 • Indonesia - SPM2 • Republic of China - CQ 7.62x51 • Sweden - KSP 58 • Taiwan - Type 74 THE M240 America did eventually jump onto the bandwagon, but relatively late and not until it had designed its own version of the MAG series. Known as the M240, it was put in service in 1977 and was used only as a co-axial variant fitted to armoured vehicles. An infantry variant - the M240G - wasn't introduced until 1991 by the USMC as a replacement for the dated and unreliable M60. The US Army adopted the weapon in 1995 as the M240E4, later the M240B. As in British service, several variants were to follow, including the M240C, M240D (E1), M240H (E5) and M240L, which is a new lightweight variant. Compared to the L7 the M240 infantry variant has only seen a few engagements mainly, Somalia, Kosovo, Afghanistan and Iraq (1991 and 2003). THE PARTS Like myself at first, many people don't realise just how different the L7A2 and M240 are, despite being the machinegun equivalent of siblings. After extensive research and months spent studying plans, photos and parts lists, I was left with a list almost an A4 page long of parts and work that would be needed to turn my M240 into an L7A2. Over the course of a few years, I gradually acquired all the parts necessary to complete the build. They were: • Inokatsu original style replica flash hider • Barrel washer • Foresight & Foresight block (early type) • Sling swivel • Bipod with height adjuster • Bipod retaining latch • Gas block & gas plug replica • Gas regulator • Top cover • Top cover plunger • Top retaining bolt and castle nut • Carry handle assembly • Barrel release catch • Cocking lever and knob • Feed tray • Ejection port cover • Trigger Group retaining pin • Rear sight aperture and slide • Trigger grips • C2 sight side mount • Stock • 50rd belt tin • Sling Later came things like my tripod, carry cases and all the other ancillary parts associated with the gpmg. As the build started to unfold, I took the opportunity to actually show you some of the major and minor differences between the L7 and the M240 parts, to help explain why I needed to change or alter so many of them. Now, not just the parts, but even the body differences are quite drastic. • Rear sights (M240 straight, L7 curved with finger grooves) • Reinforcement for stock on side plates (M240 bigger gaps, L7 more Reinforced) • Cocking lever support bar (M240 grooved, L7 more reinforced) • Front trunnion (M240 has a small ridge, L7 rounded) • Gas tube (M240 has large rear section, L7 slimmer rear and 2 vent holes. Also to note the L7 variant has grooves both sides to allow for an ambidextrous mounting of sling swivel. M240 will only sit on the left side) • Barrel (M240 is smooth behind Gas block, L7 has 2 grooves that allow for a better seating on Gas tube) MARKINGS The top row speaks for itself; the next row is the first important bit. The first two letters denote the country then factory; "BL" for ‘Belgium Liège’ (meaning the gun was made by FN), "UE" for ‘UK Enfield’ (meaning the gun was made by RSAF), Additionally, "HK" for ‘Heckler & Koch’ along with their test batches will be engraved on all future GPMGs. The next two numbers denote the year of manufacture, e.g. 75 for 1975. The possible combinations are 57-73 (BL), 62-88 (UE) and 08-11 12-present (HK). The "A" prefix is a batch number and was just added to the sequential sequence to allow the 4 digit serial number to remain (e.g. A0001-A9999, then rolling over to B0001 if the production for an individual year exceeded 9999 guns). Then next the four numbers are the last four digits of the weapon’s serial number. Newer Heckler & Koch made examples have 6 digits followed by three proof marks. The bottom row of numbers is the NSN (NATO Stock Number) for the weapon. The NSN is a 13-digit code used to identify more or less everything purchased by NATO forces. Individual components and whole weapons are listed (for example, the GPMGs carry handle alone consists of six individually-NSN numbered parts; the entire assembly is also listed as a single NSN). The weapons themselves are listed whole: L7A2 - C1/1005-13-103-2524 L85A2 - C1/1005-99-250-9030 L119A1 - C1/1005-21-920-6546 BARREL MARKINGS Early Barrels ( before HK) were stamped with a “L” designation along with the weapon’s serial number, which should be within 6” of the chamber on the right side using a 5-6mm (⅛”) stamp. This would normally be the weapon’s full serial (‘UE84 A2912’) and barrel calibre. So the infantry barrel was designated L1A2. My original barrel has been done, just need to get the new steel one done. The reason why barrels are normally stamped with the serial number is because each barrel is paired to a specific parent gun, and not supposed to be used with other guns. This is because of cartridge headspacing (CHS) matching between the barrel and body. So over time the barrel locking thread on the body wears, and to counter this various size locking nuts with different thread thicknesses are in use. On the locking nut itself, there are some serrations that the barrel locking latch will use to keep the barrel from coming free, and these cause the latch to click repeatedly as the barrel is locked home. The number of clicks is important - the minimum is three and maximum is 7 - as it demonstrates whether the barrel nut is too worn. If the latch clicks fewer than three times, the barrel will not be held or locked sufficiently. If it clicks more than 7 times, then the thread on the gun has become worn and the locking nut must be changed for the barrel to stay positioned correctly. Because one gun may have to use barrel nut size 2, it may fit perfect on that gun, but it will possibly be too tight or too loose to fit onto another gun; hence, the pairing arrangement. PAINTING Early gpmgs were painted with a paint called Suncorite 259. This was then changed in mid 2000s, having been phased out under new EU environmental regulations. All contractors - the likes of Manroy and HK - are now free to use their own firearm coatings, so long as they meet the standard, which in the UK is called ‘DEF STAN 80-56’. Mine was sprayed with what’s called ‘Small Arms Black’. However, I have also sprayed parts with Halfords satin black and can tell you there's not that much of a difference. BALANCING MARK On British GPMGs they have a white line placed towards the rear right side of the weapon, called a balancing mark. The white line corresponds to the position the cocking handle should be in when ‘balancing’ the weapon. It acts as a visual guide to show where the working parts make contact with the second sear (the former being the safety sear). The safety sear was put in on later models to stop what’s known as a ‘runaway gun’, a condition where the bolt doesn’t engage the sear and the gun will fire uncontrollably without trigger input until the ammunition is exhausted, you have a stoppage, or bits of the gun begin to melt. These would be placed from new or fresh refurb, when the weapon was balanced with it’s parent barrel, and its spare barrels matched. The mark can vary in size with Tippex or a white paint pen. The line itself will always be placed directly above the last rivet. UNIT MARKS/BUTT NUMBERS These are basic armoury numbers for quick counting and easy identification, and are normally referred to as “Butt numbers”. These are most commonly found on feed covers & buttstocks. The numbers are there for ease of retrieving a particular weapon from the rack. For example, L7A2 BL69A073249 could be rack number 55. It’s easier, when looking at a rack of 100+ weapons, to just grab the one with the big 55 number on it, instead of having to go through each weapon to check for the serial number. These would often just be written on with a paint pen, but is becoming more common to see them done with a label machine. Other number/marks will include: Vehicle or unit call sign, e.g. "10B", "33A", "24C" with the exception of "11" and "22" in an armoured battalion. The number plate if mounted on a vehicle, as has been seen on some wmiks in afghan. "Sf(followed by butt number)" if part of a Support fire role (with tripod) Zap number; the individual soldier’s casualty identification number, this is the first 2 letters of the surname and the last four from their service number. For example, Davis 25015598 would be DA5598. Some people had this written on a bit of scapa/sniper tape, which was wrapped around the stock just in case in Afghanistan, but it was not standard procedure. Units have also been known to paint colours on the top covers. This is sometimes done to identify a company or squadron within a regiment, battalion or battle group. Coloured patches are normally placed on the top cover, and although it’s not commonly done, it is more often seen on L85s & SUSATs The usual main colours are red, green, blue or yellow. I've kept mine simple, and just added the number "13". Originally I had it marked with red to symbolise A COY 3 PARA in afghan 2008. But later removed it. Barrels Some times the carry handle is marked to determine if its the main, spare or even blank barrel. Some are even marked with the weapons serial or sf number. I've added the number "1" to mine to determine its the main barrel. GEARBOX AND FEED SYSTEM Having devoted so much of this thread to the externals, it's time to show the beating heart of the beast. The gearbox was originally built up when I purchased the M240. Since then I’ve had to replace a few bits due to general wear and tear, but this is how the internals stand at present: Guarder SP110 mainspring Ultimate piston head (ventilated hexachrome aluminium) Systema Area 1000 v.3 cylinder head Systema Area 1000 Teflon cylinder Systema Area 1000 oilless 6mm bushings Systema Energy v.3 tappet plate Systema v.2 flat gear set Systema Jet AK nozzle TM AK hop-up chamber parts Madbull Blue hop-up rubber TM EG1000 short-shaft motor TM 509mm (M16-length) inner barrel It currently chronographs at 337fps with Blaster 0.20g BB’s; consistency is excellent and the range is wicked on 0.20's, although trying to get it to fire individual shots is very hard as it’s either safe or cyclic! I've kept the standard barrel on this and not upgraded it for the simple reason that I want to use it how a support weapon should be used. With work I could have it DMR accurate, but I like to harass a whole barricade, not just one person. The inside of the Inokatsu is a fairly typical AEG gearbox; what complicates the gun is - as usual for box-fed airsoft guns - the feed system. I had originally wanted to use a G&P M249 auto-winding box magazine. Unfortunately, after receiving a donated one I found that the mechanism itself was just too big to fit into the smaller 50rd ammunition tin fitted to my gun. I looked at other types of box and drum magazines, but nothing stood out until a forum member approached me with a spare Echo1 M240 box magazine for sale. Having received it, I promptly ripped it apart for the feed mechanism. Unhappy with the wiring I decided to strip the G&P box for parts too, and soon a Frankensteinian monster was in the making. The chief reason for trying to marry the G&P’s electronics to the Echo1’s mechanics was my decision to power the gun with a 9.9v LiFe. The Echo1’s harness is made of extremely thin wire, and I’m worried that the stress of long bursts of fire may cause it to overheat. The G&P harness is heavier-duty, and also has a circuit board with an integrated transformer to vary the battery’s high voltage to the lower voltage required by the winding mechanism’s motor. Usefully, the circuit board also continues to wind the magazine for a few seconds after you release the trigger, ensuring there are BBs fed for the next burst. I cut and bent a metal plate to act as a makeshift reservoir, and cut a rectangle in the side of it to hold the LiFe. I'm still looking for other ways to store the battery, so this isn’t necessarily final. I also tried to think of a way to hide the feed tube, but there wasn't enough room to do so; for the moment at least I've had to stick with the feed sticking out the bottom. The feed tube may have been too big but the wiring wasn’t, so that has now been hidden after making a cut out in both the body under the feed tray and on the edge of the ammo box lid. Bear in mind that this magazine is really only a prototype and still under development. I need to make sure things work reliably, and I would like to simplify the wiring at some point before I make something more permanent Hope you've enjoyed this build and all the info that makes the L7 unique, and you haven't fallen asleep yet. Thank you for taking the time to read. Now for the finished item...

Now this begs the question does this prove this was a new batch, or were these kept in the warehouse *because* of this and someone just forgot or okay’d it to be sent out

SA80 Family So all my version are made by STAR/ARES. L85A3 I wasn't a fan of the original A3 front end. So swapped it out for the Angry gun version. However, this took quite a bit of work to fit. So things like the gas block and the area where the rail meets the body. Both had to be demelled and sanded down. the mount pin hole had to be elongated. New holes added to fit the angry gun top rail. Also engraved the C Reinforcement welds. I then had the LLM03 3d printed, along with a replica of the push button. Also fitted is the ARES OS4 replica and a genuine LLM01 push button mount. QR code and HKA3 stickers added to receiver. L85A2 TES (Theatre Entry Standard) In airsoft this is often refered to as the "Afghan spec". Boasts correct; * replica surefire flash hider * LLm01 * Grip pod * DD rail * Riser mount * Acog with wing mount. L85A2 (2008 3 para variant) This version comes with a genuine HK LLM01 adapted hand guard. This was only seen for a short period with some units before the DD rail was adopted. This rifle is based off a mates unit, who served with the paras. So all labels and marks are exactly as placed on his rifle during his tour. All I did was change the butt number. Then weathered the hell out of it and spent alot of time making the susat look real. L86A2 LSW Apart from weathering, this is completely standard and has had little work done. Only parts added it a genuine bipod latch. L22A2 This wasn't working and required a few parts. But they're all sorted. Also has a genuine HK grip as used on the real counterpart. Then do e the usual weathering to both body and susat sight. Also made a batch of correct UK weapon stickers for the SA80 and SUSAT. L85A2/L123A2 UGL This is still on my to finish list. The rifle itself needs alot of work. The launcher on the other hand has had the end of the launcher lathed down to resemble the real end and can now correctly fit the genuine dust cap. I've also had a real LLM01 pressure switch holder fitted, and re worked the side rail and bolts. I'm looking at getting the trades removed and having correct ones re laser engraved. Then will get the same weathering treatment as all the others. Then below those are the stickers I had made to replicate the HK markings on the rear of the receivers and the QR codes. Also a better look at the weathering on the susats.

I'd say the main 'gatekeeping' factor for people moving into any kind of 'primary' GBB RIF is the cost of magazines. Most M4 gas mags are ~£50 per mag and some specialised mags like the MP7 can be listed for £70+ at UK retailers which can scare off a lot of people from going to gas (yes I know you can get them from retailers in Asia for a fraction but that's besides the point). Personally, i've only ever ran my gas MP9 & MP7 at my CQB place as it's semi-only and levels the playing field in terms of ammo count and rate of fire. For outdoors, i've always used an AEG however i'm starting to move into a VSR for bigger sites and a different style of play. I have recently stumbled into owning a GBBR M4 and like my other gas 'primary' RIFs, I like being able to manipulate a weapon that's capapble outside 30m - I just need to find mags on the cheap(ish)

GBBR is the future. I always let people with AEGs have a few shots with mine just to see their faces light up when they feel that sweet recoil action. I love mine and it shoots great on 0.3g bbs. I always run six 30 round mags and a few speed loaders, so I can reload really quickly in the field. Breaks between games then gives me a chance to gas my mags and fill my speed loaders so I rarely find myself running out of ammo. Don't worry about being outgunned. Once you have adjusted your game to semi auto only, you will find that 30 bbs can actually go a long way. Doing the basics of actually aiming and trying to pick your shots before you pull the trigger with increase the odds of hitting the target and reduce how many shots you need to take. .

GBBRs are definitely more immersive and feel cooler to use. They are also more challenging and expensive to use on game days. They are NOT more accurate or have longer range. I saw a video (cant remember name) of a US player who found the best compromise for ammo was to take 4 or 5 mags and refill them with BBs and gas in the field. As Hudson said above, start by using heavier BBs and only use single shot. Only consider changing to GBBR when you're getting bored and need more of a challenge 😉

I've never regretted going gbbr, I love it, but it can be a very different play style to the majority that aren't on low caps and I've seen many a player unable to adjust and give up. The other than issue I've seen often and is quite surprising for players moving to gas is the weight of the mags. They can add up quickly and ill fitting gear that doesn't spread the load can cause back ache really quickly. Regards being our gunned, something to try before taking the expensive jump is to try playing with low caps, or just popping 40 bbs into the mags you have and see of you can adjust to the play style. If you do then id highly recommend a gbbr as something to enjoy.

Thanks to a member on this forum. Another British Marked Browning Mk3 So how have a mk2, mk3 early and now a mk3 late.

Lol, I'm only rattling your chain😜, I've a couple of spring snipers that are bog standard stock, if I ever got in to sniping properly then I'd consider c02 bolts to start with, but I'm fearful once you start the upgrade process, it can get silly expensive & a sometimes fruitless money pit. Got a couple of electric snipers too, but I view them in the same category as dmr's, would seem unfair to run them at snipers limits, be too easy ? Most definitely, when noobs start talking about "upgrading" their one & only rif, I'm like "spend the money you'll waste getting a few more fps on a second rifle for backup". Too many times I've been on site only to see players packing up early cos their only gun has died, I'll always offer a loaner if they don't look like a headcase🤡

Might be worth taking 1 aeg as a plan B or C I really don't get to play often but I always go armed to the hilt, usually take 2 GBBR's & a couple of AEG's, Iwant to use my GGBR's more but for various reasons I always end up using an AEG as a plan B.

I'm just gonna leave this here........ALWAYS😏 (Not exactly the right context lol)