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Hello Hello, I remembered I had an account here and asked some questions some time ago related to these projects. I figured I'd do a bit of a project dump on what I've been up to. I'll use this thread for future additions, as I certainly have more planned as funds allow. The BR-55 and M7 SMG are near completion and are fully functional. Both need a few tweaks and some internal parts. I'd stopped both projects until January this year, and started both from scratch with the aid of my new printer, a Prusa XL (single head for now). Due to ill health, I had to stop work on the BR, having completed a lot of but not all of the physical aspects, and instead directed my attention to the design work for the M7. The M7 requires a lot less metal work (only cutting some rods and drilling about 4 holes in a 3x12 stainless bar, and a couple in the alu barrel mounting). Thus both are being worked on in parallel. I'm currently in the process of refining a few things. Needless to say, neither project has been particularly cheap. Credit to Kingdom of Airsoft and Perun for the original idea to use the ETU++ as a "DIY" solution. The BR-55 A bit of a mix of The Halo 2, 3, and H2A designs, I went for a mix of aspects due to preference, and deepened the stock to allow fitment of a V3 gearbox. It weighs around 4.5KG unloaded, and is reinforced with 15mm stainless box section within the upper, and 12x3 stainless bar running down either side of the stock. There are various bits of metal rod where needed. Surprisingly it's pretty well balanced on the (very comfy) grip, and will stand on the grip alone unsupported. It's printed very solidly in eSun's PLA super tough. It feels very sturdy and there are no squeaks or wobbles. (old video where it's basically being held together by me, you can also see my H2A Marine helmet). 1:1 to the "real" size. Guts: It uses a perun ETU++ hooked up to various microswitches for operation, and has a proper 3 position selector with a mechanical safety. This means no bullpup trigger bar and a snappy trigger. The round counter is fully operational, utilising Tachyon's solution with a custom graphics pack and modified sensor layout, removing the need for a "sock" on the end of the barrel. The round counter is reset by pulling back the charging handle. Manually (very, very carefully, I swear) removed the sensor and emitter from the board, applied heatshrink, and superglued to a saddle that straddles the hole I drilled in the barrel. Also contains compass and clock. Quite useful for timed games. The gearbox is a V3 LCT AK, with an airsoft-pro G36 chamber and 450 something-mm ZCI barrel. Sadly the ML bucking I used (60' macaron) has given me some issues, and will not lift a .25 without dropping 70+ FPS. Having attempted the usual fixes and various nubs, I'm at a loss. I have a psionic Tho-R on the way for both the SMG and BR, so touch wood that'll be an improvement. The airsoft pro chamber is nice in that it bolts directly to the gearbox, removing that as a variable for air leakage. The battery compartment is in the foregrip, with an AK dust cover style button for easy access and removal. The space is sizeable, and I can't see much trouble fitting at least a 3000mah 11.1v in there (if only I had one). I intend to include a small toolkit. The magazines are fully custom, with ML superfeed springs (hello midcap syndrome). Not perfect, but I'm working on improvements. Thanks to Igniz for some pointers on dimensions. I intend to try integrating AR mag hi-cap guts at some point for a skirmish mag. The mag release is situated in front of the mag well, and gives a nice satisfying click on seating. The well is intentionally loose for the addition of velcro, giving a secure fit. These feed into a modular feed block that interfaces between the chamber and magazine. I've allowed provision for a built in tracer and a mechanism to prevent BBs from dropping. Takedown: Basic takedown is very simple and tool-less. It involves removing the foregrip, removing a detent pin from in front of the trigger guard, then sliding the upper forward out of the 1/3 rifle length grooves. The braided battery cable should slide free easily. Removing the gearbox requires removing the hop from the gearbox, pulling the squished wires out, unscrewing 5 bolts on the back, and feeding it out through the open hole in the back of the stock, followed by disconnecting the deans and microswitch cable. Somehow both better and worse than the AUG. The pistol grip is held in by 6 M4 bolts and I doubt that'll ever go anywhere. Printed and oriented for maximum strength. The entire upper takes down into sections from around the 15mm tube. Other nifty details and gaffes: -There are 6 QD sling points, 2 rear, front and mid (in front of the receiver). -Rubber (TPU) butt pad and coating for the cheek rest. -The cheek rest is too far forward to comfortably use. Game design moment. -The rail is too far forward for most magnified optic's eye relief to be useful. You can however lift the stock over your shoulder to get close enough. -I neglected to put a ledge on the front of the trigger guard, which the fire select detent mechanism attached to. This meant if you put pressure on the trigger guard (say with your hand), it would move the fire select lever up and down. This has been rectified quite easily, if a little wastefully. -I dropped the whole lower receiver onto a concrete corner from several feet while carrying it to the food dehydrator to cure, after the final coat. I nearly screamed in anguish. Thankfully, PLA-ST is very tough, and it sustained only a minor dent on an edge. This is the first battle damage. Remarkable material for being so cheap and easy to print. -I originally intended the design to keep the hop up chamber with the upper upon disassembly. I found that no matter the spring used, firing would cause the hop up to move forward 5mm with every shot. I suspect this has something to do with the anti double feed mechanism it has. It's now fixed to the gearbox, and is somewhat delicate when unsupported by the upper, hanging by only a grub screw. At some point I'll look at fixing it proper to the lower. -The magazines had to be angled forward to be in an optimal position to feed. -I didn't think my power wiring through very well, and it's a bit of a rat's nest. The excess power wires that give sufficient length for the gearbox to be removed have to be stuffed into a hole to keep them out of the way. Not an easy prospect with thickly insulated 14awg wires. Needs improvement. -The muzzle flash is printed and currently just friction fits on the barrel. I've the means but not the expertise to use a lathe to cut a thread into it. When that happens, I intend to buy Foundry's alu flash hider. -The painting was a bit of a nightmare, and contained a lot of stops, starts and bad farts . Accidentally wiping off paint with unintentionally strong spirits, gray overspray onto black, clear clouding, dropping final piece onto concrete... etc. -The detail lines on the stock were so shallow, sanding and spray putty almost removed them in places. Without thinking I set to with a knife, butchering some grooves into several hundred hours of work. -Much like an old warplane being restored with a few bolts or a nameplate being the "same plane", the foregrip was the only part that made its way over from the original project. Considering the detail lines were so small that they didn't even print, I'm kind of wishing I hadn't. I'd say the (almost) end result is worth it though. M7 SMG Ah, the first proper CAD project I ever worked on, and the first airsoft gun I ever attempted. Frankly, the original I started 5-6 years ago was unsalvageable. Looked pretty, but holy moly, what a mess. It's not wasted though, you learn things. I have to say I'm quite happy with how this one turned out. Far less faff than the BR-55, almost everything worked as intended without much trouble. Printed in much the same fashion and material, but a fair sight simpler. (please excuse the mess, Prusa XL enclosed in the background) The guts: JG Vz.61 AEP innards form the working part of this pew pew. Regrettably, AEP performance isn't always the best, and repairing broken ones can be iffy. You can imagine my disappointment when I finally finished a gun that's been 5-6 years in the making, and it has an effective range of 15 feet. The stock bucking applies no backspin at all. Thankfully everything else works, and I have a Psionic Tho-R on the way to help remedy that. The gearbox unfortunately had an incident where the cut-off switch fell off internally, as evidently no thread lock was applied at manufacture. Awaiting a fine torx set to get at it. The feed route is an interesting one, given it goes around 4 bends and finally ends up vertical. Works just fine though apparently. (Note it's a little more noisy than it would be, as there's no barrel or hop unit, or BB being fired) VID_20240811_210834390.mp4 As a salve for the disappointment that may be gripping some of you upon hearing the acronym "A-E-P", this gun's perfectly sized for a P* F2, and would require minimal design changes to adapt it for such. This gun also uses the Perun ETU++, and this time with some wire management (woo). I've got a very satisfying clicky electronic safety that uses magnets as detents, as I had no room to integrate a mechanical safety in the linear trigger. It's very ergonomic and easy to toggle with the trigger finger within the trigger guard. The ETU was intended for this project originally as a way of getting around the lack of semi cut off present on CMG gearboxes (CQB gun with no semi is as useful as a max joule sniper in CQB), but proved perfect for bullpups. The fire selector isn't in the most ideal of locations (under the magazine well), but it can be easily toggled with the off hand. The battery compartment is in the grip, and a cap comes off with the push of a button at the back. It can hold standard sized lipo batteries, preferably short ~1200mah 7.4v. I'm very pleased with the magazine seating / locking mechanism. It was a problem with the original. This time there's a hook very securely mounted to the back of the receiver. As you slide the magazine forward onto the tray, the hook falls into a groove in the magazine, and as the fore of the magazine seats into the mag well, the hook locks the magazine in the X axis as the mag catch locks it in the Y. You can jerk the gun around by the magazine only without play. Nice click too. Both the stock and foregrip change position. The stock extends by around 95mm, and locks securely with a 5mm stainless pin into a 12x3 stainless bar. The foregrip also locks with a metal pin, but into ABS+. It has no side to side play, but has a little forward and back play when deployed. I've decided it's negligible given it's minor and doesn't make a noise. The ejection port / charging handle also works smoothly, though it's not for thick or gloved fingers. The top iron sights are removable, to be replaced with a pic rail. Side and bottom rails can also be added. Takedown: A little more tool intensive than the BR-55 for basic takedown. 2 bolts allow the removal of the upper "cap", 6 more for the inner "block" which houses the hop up chamber, feed block and outer barrel. This slides forward off the nozzle and up. This allows the gearbox, pressured down by the upper cap, to be removed. Nifty details and gaffes: -The stock detent spring has been a source of frustration and fiddling. I've spent some time trying to get the spring mounted onto the pin block. To be improved. -The stock pad is TPU with ABS encased within to mount the 2 QD fittings (designed for single point slings only, unless the front is wrapped with something). TPU doesn't deal with overhangs well, and the quality leaves something to be desired. I'm hoping a second head for the XL will solve this problem (multi-material integration). -The original Omron SS-5 switch I bought for the trigger sounded *exactly* like a computer mouse. I couldn't stand this and instead bought some of the XSS-5 copies that actually feel more solid and sound better. -Surprisingly ergonomic, though the grip is less comfy than the BR. I didn't want to sacrifice the aesthetic too much. The sights are useful for airsoft even if you can only really look down them when holding the gun out like a pistol. You can still align them while shouldered. Adequate for lobbing small plastic balls at other nerds. -The suppressor seems a little pointless for an electric gun, but I'll likely do it anyway at some point. It's very janky and intended to use an olight key ring torch with a threaded "presser" on the back to turn it on. I'd rather do it when I can thread the barrel. It'd also be more useful for a HPA version. Man I love the aesthetic of this thing. Drawing a blank here, nothing much went wrong. I'd hate you less for wanting me to make you one of these. That's about it for now. You may have noticed a new helmet in one of the pics, with built in forehead / glasses fan. Future projects will be the HPA SMG when I'm not poor (gee I wonder where the money went), Mk23 M6C Socom, and a HPA MA5B. We don't talk about the WE tech Glock I turned into a magnum. Needless to say I don't like WEtech anymore. I'd love to daytona a Halo replica, but alas, money. Ask away, just be aware I'm a little closed on specific details as I do plan to make a little money on these. Cheers for reading.

Was asked to knock up a stubby suppressor for the NGRS MP5SD so that it could take a Acetech Brighter C inside. Turned out pretty good I think.

https://www.usedairsoft.co.uk/rif-s/electric-powered/job-lot-of-things-read-description_i66092 For an advert title that says "Read description", I just... i... If some people had a single braincell, they would be deemed a danger to themselves and others.

Yes you’re right, Ulm is the home of Walther, and like you think VFC is the OEM. I have pre ordered one from Landwarrior so will give my opinion when it arrives. 2 versions, one just the pistol, one complete with dummy moderator.

Latest edition to my pistol collection. Wiitech make an aluminium slide with steel threaded barrel. looks fantastic with a comp and also takes a light weight tracer unit with no problems.

Like a moth to the Mack’s flame https://airsoft-forums.uk/classifieds/item/55402-airsoft-bundle/

Heads up, I’ve now tried 5 different slides (Proarms, detonator x 2, mafioso and wiitech) for the gen5 and so far the Wiitech seems to be the winner (depending on what you want from a pistol). It comes with steel rails to protect the aluminium body from wear. it also comes with a steel fluted threaded barrel and a matching 6.03 brass TBB. The comps and thread protectors are pretty fairly priced as well. The kit is drop in (although you’ll need to slightly modify the sights if you have pro arms tritium supressor sights). it’s also in the midrange of slide prices. Mine was £170 inc shipping (so £200 after tax). The detonator slides and mafiosio were far more expensive. I’ve also got a near identical mafioso steel slide G17.5. The kit is fantastic quality and comes with a full assembled guide rod specifically for the slide set. its a heavy slide but the gen5 gas system moves is scarily easily. It recoils faster than some of my gen3s with aluminium slides. Both G17.5s have the same internals: -CCT piston lid -CCT spring set - Wiitech 200% recoil springs - Wiitech steel recoil rod - Wiitech aluminium recoil spring cage - JDG magwell - Proarms tritium sights

At the moment I ride a dr125se it is a Yreg and I am looking to go up to a dr650rs tourer.

Hi folks, Went to my first game on Sunday at Ace Airsoft in Cosford. Really enjoyed it and keen to go again. Using rental gear, had terrible fogging problems as expected, Charlie was in the trees but I couldn't see him at all! What are the best suggestions to avoid this? I've looked at dye i4s but not being able to aim a rental due to size of head gear is off-putting and I've looked at lower face mesh guards (recommendations appreciated) but I'm also a bit lost looking for eye wear. I don't fancy mesh and goggles seem safest,but I'm worried about not being able to see due to fog. Any suggestions please?

I did wonder if that's the same seller as posted earlier

The description is dodgy as hell too

I use mesh in the woods - opinions are mixed, but personally I am very confident in them - lots of hits at various ranges, and they have shrugged them off. Theoretical possibility of BBs breaking up and particles going through, but should that happen, I am confident said particles would be more an irritation than a danger. https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/nuprol-shades-mesh-glasses-eye-protection?fv=5297&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw59q2BhBOEiwAKc0ijdfKfZisTXqVrTj8lsUQPyfJNNaLap0L_MCH2kAYYsavH_S8w_9LUBoCBDIQAvD_BwE Indoors, due to the extreme close ranges, I use full goggles, combined with the novritsch anti fog system suck on the back of my helmet. Googles are the Pyramex V2 - which actually are identical/are the OEM for the Nov goggles. On their own, they are pretty low profile, with good all round visibility, and actually really excellent antifog properties. But, combined with the anti fog unit, and I have never had fogging, even super hot and sweaty, static, in a cold building. You are right to ask about the noise though - you can hear a low hum/whine, even when the unit is wound down to its slowest setting (which frankly, is all that is ever needed). I suspect outdoors it mostly wouldn't be noticeable, but at times in a dark and silent building, it can be annoying.

The most suspicious name too. 😂 Found it listed here https://www.airsoft-hub.com/item/32462-black-and-purple-arc-1s too but with a different angle so I'm guessing it's legit?

I'm I missing something here 🤔, joins an hour ago & first post is to sell nearly a grands worth of god knows what ?.

Digging through the bits I forgot I had - found a TM G3 hop unit. I'll give it a go with an upgrade barrel in my new MC51 project and let you know what I get!

Another scammer, well actually the same guy I banned last week, just back with a new name🤬, thanks @aragoth for the heads up & remaining vigilant.

£1400 for a job lot of ‘things’? I have ‘things’ to meet many wallet sizes, let me know your budgets and I’ll help anyone out with ‘things’ to fit their personal budgets I can do ‘things’ in job lots or on an individual ‘things’ as required

That is a strong contender for the lowest-effort vs highest-expectations advert ever.

Maybe the seller comes included in the package? 🤷‍♂️

Their checkout page gives you the answer: Duties and Taxes All product prices are exclusive of customs duties and taxes.

WGC have a notes section when you order where you can put your UKARA number. You'll have to pay Parcel Force when customs charges are raised this end.

Any item sent across international boundaries requires a customs declaration - so the sender must make a declaration When it arrives at the border that existing declaration might suffice, but the recipient is the responsible party on any imported goods. Its most likely that the recipient will be required to complete a declaration - even if it is just verifying the senders declaration Two key areas are covered: 1). Is the import allowed? This covers whether the item is illegal / legal and also whether there are any qualifying requirements of the recipient (eg is it a U.K. legal RIF and does the recipient have a VCRA Defence ?) 2) Is there a tax/duty/fee to be paid for ? Sometimes the sender handles payment of tax/duty/fees and supply paperwork with the declaration (You ought to already know this service is being provided at the point of sale - if not then the default is that you are liable as the importer Sometimes a ‘handling agent’ acts as middle man I had that last year with some custom gear, it was designed and manufactured overseas, sent to their U.K. rep, and I was contacted by him with the bill (Rather than being a true agent on import, it was more of him acting as a U.K. retailer selling my custom gear to me after I had dealt with the overseas design house) Provide your UKARA details in the notes, plus in your delivery address and assume that you will need to fill in a declaration confirming the import plus a bill for 20% UK VAT and handling fees

Easiest and cheapest option: Revision Anti-Fog wipes. They're witchcraft. Breathe on your goggles to steam them up and wipe with the cloth a few times. They take some effort to steam up after that. Using a Delta Mike snood appears to help me because it doesn't trap heat like other face protection. Finally, I use an Exfog unit secured to the back of my helmet with the tubes ran on the inside of the lid, into the goggles. Novritsch has his own type of Exfog unit if you can't find one in stock. I get condensation on the inside of the goggles but rarely do I get actual fogging.

I thought SRC make the *other new Umarex Gen 5 MOS?

Take off one of the spring bearings if you have 2. There's no reason to have 2, and you will reduce the preload by doing it. Either you've assembled the gun better this time or the springs are not rated correctly. You shouldn't be seeing that much difference between the springs altho the rps should be lower and may have addressed the timing issue if there was one. Unless you are using a known set of parts that works in your gun specifically, changing one thing at a time is advised. You wouldn't normally need a delayer unless you were getting feeding issues.

Would be, if they even existed for that. It's a low yield platform, so could be years before one exists.

I assume you were wearing rental goggles? These are much more likely to fog up because they have been worn funny hundreds of people before (unless in the post covid era you were lucky enough to be at a site that has opted to use fresh goggles per rental player) Any manufacturer anti-fog coating on a lens is degraded as soon as any form of product (other than minimal water) is used to clean a lens. Rental / old lenses will gradually lose some of their anti fog capabilities over time, and as the lens gets cleaned. There are after market anti fog products such as cat crap which help, but they should be avoided on new lenses as long as possible to make the best of the manufacturers coating - but that doesn’t work for everyone and an individual may need anti fog help from the beginning More important than the manufacturers antifog or after market anti fog is air flow which minimises the work for the anti fog coating i4s are seen as the recommended goggle, but other premium goggles are available. Dyes tend to be smaller goggles, which is attractive to airsofters, and also due to the smaller goggle there is more airflow from the lack of goggle surface area. A key benefit shared with other premium goggles is the rubber material, so if the chin would get in the way of you aiming you can lean in and it bends away from your guns stock etc Everything is personal though, and the ideal is to try on a few options of different full face goggles to fit your personal head size and shape, part face goggles accompanied by a mesh guard etc, or minimising down to glasses and a scarf etc (Remembering that scarves give zero air flow, so may be making a fresh problem) If you can then visit an airsoft or paintball retailer (noting that most stock supplies for both) and try on goggles

I can't find anything about the company Ulm but it is the name of a city in southern Germany which is home to a few gun makers including Walther (who are owned by Umarex). If I were a betting man I'd wager that Ulm are importers and a part of Umarex while the OEM is someone else, probably VFC As someone with a bit of a thing for German guns I'll definitely be keeping an eye on these (along with working on my Scottish accent and cheesy one liners)

Honda CBR600F which I bought recently😁

Half eaten tesco sandwich, got it with some meat and maybe some cheese. Open to trades as long as it's a 14 bed country house

Bits came in from Action Airsoft. Amazing packing and speedy delivery that sailed through customs. Trigger was easy to fit, is super light and I was able to take up just about all the slack. Hop unit would have been super easy as well but took me a min to work out if using the 4UAD rubber you need a TM spec barrel (the cut out is longer). Once I worked this out it hopped .43g and still did not bottom out the adjustment. Not had time to dig the chrono out to test the shot to shot consistency but from firing 5 mags into trash feels like a new toy almost. Excuse the ash not a 20 a day smoker was just burning some wood at the time and snapped a few images while test firing.

Spiritus systems MKV.

I won't buy anything off a stranger unless they show me a photo of that item with something absolutely stupidly random like a toilet roll or a a hand full or gravel 😂

Dodgy delivery is the seller's problem, refund the buyer first and then handle your business if you know that the package is lost

Personally, I’d make a refund and then claim back off Evri.

A mis-match made in heaven.

I love boneyard listings sometimes, the thing is a periscope but defcon has the cheek to try listing it, and for only 20 quid less than RRP! "Slight bend" yeah right XD

I don't know about any of their other sites but when RIFT ran The Village near Royston it was policy that dry firing in the safezone would get you sent home. This might seem a bit harsh but IMO you can't be too careful when it comes to preventing injuries caused by negligence

Update: Managed to get some mags today. They're a bit hard to get in the UK at the moment.

Airsoft electric gun with custom 3d printed gearbox. Uses TM-compatible parts for gearbox v3 and m-series mags. Barrel length 455 mm. For extra toughness of construction used 10x20 mm alluminium channels. Gearbox tested with 148 m/s (487fps) output and works well. Gun is open-source, files may be downloaded on Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2916390

I love l119a1's, how much did it cost to put together if you don't mind me asking? Ddo you have the diemaco receiver? Nice paint job too.

Needs a new paint job i think. Mods please amend if ive not posted the pic correctly Its a Dboys M4 RIS.. Yeh thining of going back to black

https://www.usedairsoft.co.uk/two-tone-replicas/gas-powered_2/we-hi-cappa-5-1-two-tone_i66071 He's dreaming to list a two-tone used Hi-Capa for £110 when one can get the RIF for a fiver less from a retailer. https://www.ammodrop.co.uk/we-hi-capa-51-r-gbb-pistol I just hope there isn't sucker born every minute