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I would suggest either a sideboard, or office type cupboards to sit underneath the small shelf. So can have rigs/kit in one cupboard. Spares/parts and accessories in another. So all sorted and you know where it all is. I've literally juts bought some free standing grid wall for my British airsoft collection.

I just fell for the classic ‘ooh I’ll try fettling with some airsoft bollocks to unwind a bit before bed’ which predictably led to me losing a grip screw and lots of swearing. Anyway, 30 minutes of rolling around later I’m headed to bed full of dust, screw still MIA and more wound up then when I started 😂

Another Aliexpress success. Bought it for Vietnam games to carry my long m700 magazines, because they're far better quality magazines and far more consistent than the stubby KJW mags, and they fit perfectly. They go deeper, but thought I'd leave them there to show the space and how they fit in. Very happy with this as it'll allow me to take a lot of weight off my belt kit as these mags are heavy (because gas gun)

Tbh you're probably going to have better luck breaking it up into several sales as larger bundles don't tend to sell as quickly, if at all.

Both my daughter and I have been using these since we started. Brilliant bit of kit but it does leave a small section of the bridge of your nose uncovered and that attracts every stray bb!! lol

To adujst the files, so I can fit the internals of a air soft gun inside is a lot simpler than adjusting them so I can fit a whole gun in them. And it's always going to look better if you have a complete redesign instead of a some bits glued to a existing gun. And it's gonna be fun to make it. I'm neither into airsoft nor cosplay. The fun part for me is making it work. If I ever start working on a Bolter, it's probably ok, just to hide a full gun in it, because it's so large. But with the Lasgun, I don't want to make it too large.

@Rogerborg have fun

Thought I'd give the delta mike face snood a go, so I can get rid of the half mesh I use now as the straps rub my ears.

https://www.accu.co.uk/shop/precision-components/washers-spacers/recessed-washers/solid-countersunk-washers?Finish=Matte+Black&page=1 Or https://www.accu.co.uk/spherical-seat-washers/409770-HCSW-M6-A4-BL?uk_google_shopping=1&c=3&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwg8qzBhAoEiwAWagLrDCNaCzXhb_RgGxFwHVRFAb9xM-3su_U-PZAaInMBVf7jpSkFfJ2IxoCVxcQAvD_BwE

Nearly managed to marry my ex-wife, but she figured out that I was only after my money.

I've got the lite sport. It shoots really well. I used it on my last game day. My only problem is the retaining bolt/pin for the cylinder likes to creep out when you shoot it. Also the cheek weld on the stock is not great but you get used to it. I'm really happy with mine. Amazing value for money I think.

My wife recently told me that as I'm a parent I need to make sacrifices. But then she hit the roof when she came home and saw the giant pentagram on the kitchen table and what I had done to the cat.

Hi all, recently ran into some problems with my APFG Spear so I thought id let everyone know so it doesn't unfortunately happen to you lot! It's been running perfectly and still is however there are two screws holding in the hammer connecting level and one has stripped out of its thread. This has happened on both mine and my mates spear so it looks like a manufacturing issues as the screws look way to short to get a proper grip. Factory both mine and his came Loctited but eventually stripped. I would recommend either using glue or some other method of ensuring the screw stays in as it looks like this will happen on MOST spears. At the minute I'm unsure if this happens on the rattlers but looks likely. Currently I am trying different screw lengths to see which will work the best and I may need to drill and tap the hole to a bigger thread if none of the original thread is usable/left. Below is a picture of the screw that has come out, a good way to tell if this has happened to your is that the upper and lower may be difficult to join together again. I will update if I find a solution, I have created this as a topic so if anyone else has issues and remedies they can attach it here, remember we all can help each other out!

I just received an email from G&G which contains information on their new range with "true quick change" (through the stock tube) gear boxes with Gate Asters installed.

MILF on a SHILF?

Yeah, but it's not got any molle.

No, I was telling you to be quiet 😉

Mrs Shamal is always saying that I drive her up the wall but that is taking it to new levels 😂

Anyone make a geardo cross? If so gis a look see.

Okay did a lot of testing and the hop is very inconsistent. The fps is still extremely consistent but the hop is everywhere, the more I shoot it I see slight improvements, so I am going to try and rinse as many rounds as possible then come up with a verdict.

That's a bit of a walk then. I'm in the middle.

Oh, hello. This is very relevant to my interests. I'd agree that an M4 makes sense as the base. All you really need to retain is the lower receiver and gearbox, plus the hop unit and inner barrel, ideally as a complete unit. Those are the shooty bits. It shouldn't matter which M4, but with it being airsoft, it might, due to slight differences in dimensions. CYMA would be the default choice to use for development as they're an actual OEM and should (there's that word again) be consistent across the range, from their cheapest plastic CM.5xx guns, up to the metal receivers with trick gearboxes and electronics. However, there are many (many, many) other affordable options: Specna Arms, Lancer Tactical, Double Eagle, all of which have quick change springs (which the cheapest CYMAs don't) and any of which ought to be workable with perhaps some slight modification to the dimensions, either before printing or with some filing or filling afterwards. What you'd want to print is the upper receiver. What matters is that it mates up with the lower - specifically keying into it at the rear, and at the front pin - and that the interior matches the original just above and in front of the magwell, where the hop unit seats. That part is crucial to get right, as any misalignment of the hop unit, or inability to slide forwards and and backwards slightly, will result in misfeeds and/or magazines not seating. You'll also need some sort of flip-or-slide-to-open window to access the hop unit dial, although it needn't be as big as the ejection port on the original receiver. I'd suggest binning off the outer barrel and just run the inner barrel directly inside the printed receiver. The outer dimensions of airsoft inner barrels are fairly consistent, but I'd make the void a fraction bigger than your development gun's inner barrel, as the barrel can be (and commonly is) shimmed up with tape to fit snugly, on a case by case basis. It's fine to have an inner barrel that's shorter than the outer, as long as it's not excessively so, and the BBs's don't impact the outer on the way out (which is another reason to make the void slightly oversized). After that, you can go hog wild with the externals. For example, the CSI XM-5 is an M4 / V2 gearbox and hop unit inside a particularly funky plastic shell that... some people... already use as a space plasmalaser gun. For the avoidance of doubt, I mention this as an example of what can be done with a full external factory do-over. I would not use this as the base gun for a kit! It's not readily available now, and while the internals are V2 they're very sub-par. In theory it takes STANAG / M4 mags as well as its stock magazine, but the receiver halves and buffer tube are nothing like M4 compatible. For all that it's just a hollow shell, it's a weighty boy too, and nobody wishes their gun was heavier come the end of the day, and it an absolute nightmare to take apart and work on. It's a swing and a miss, you can do better by sticking with a stock lower and a simple one-pin takedown. Oh, buffer tube. Some M4 have bolt-on buffer tubes, but the cheapest CYMAs don't, they're moulded to the back of the lower receiver. However, the dimensions of the buffer tube itself should be... similar... and so you should be able to come up with a printed stock that secures onto most tubes. Airsoft gearboxes can be front or rear wired. With front wired, the wiring goes out past the hop unit (this can sometimes be a bit of a squeeze) to a battery somewhere in the upper receiver. Rear wired, the wiring runs inside the buffer tube to a battery in the stock. Rear wired is most common in generic M4s, and I'd suggest sticking with rear wiring, and keeping the battery inside the stock, with as much empty space as possible. On magazines, I wouldn't sweat that just yet. There are a plethora of various short / low profile mags available, but magazine fitting and feeding is one of the common issues that airsofters encounter. If you do get feeding issues, the most common cause is front to rear misalignment of the hop unit, or the nozzle protruding too far into the hop rubber, all of which is dependent on the magwell, magazine, hop unit, nozzle and hop rubber - it's a problem to solve on a case-by-case basis. I'm looking forward to seeing what you come up with. For development purposes, you don't even need a working gun, any boneyard basket-case should do, as long as it has all the external parts so that you can get the dimensions right.

Bought these ones, look just like the Zentico ones https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B09Q251WGY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Also the flat head screws are M5/9 if you want to ditch the Allen Heads for what's used (if anal-retentive like me)

Lol, that's SODS LAW at play.🤣 I picked one up recently but yet to test it.

Thanks everyone. Been super helpful

Yeah that's not a Tokyo Marui. Odds are its a KWA

I don't think that is a TM. TM would say ASGK and Tokyo Marui on it somewhere. I think it might be a Kwa, which would explain the mags! How does the hop up adjust on yours?

You know it! Nah would mostly be asking sites if they are cool with it or doing the super sneaky late pitch. Nothing like that, just a spot of occasional wild camping to do max two nights on the trot, predominantly to go airsofting at non local sites. No, just the (green) microfiber towel, it works and it's light/small enough.

Well I’m stupid… 😂 I didn’t even think to check normal washers 🤦‍♂️

Yarp, you'll want to create an ad here, there's no obvious best subsection as you're flogging a job lot. If you don't name a price, expect to get offers / "offers" from chancers or fantasists wanting to get most of it as "free gifts". You'll also want to consider and specify postage or collection, and how you'll want to be paid (and who's paying the fees for that). Best of luck.

Cool, ta. Might have to get some and cut them down.

Just take care - if you are discovered by an irate land owner, bet an Ikea bag full of RIFs could be viewed as a bit of an aggravating factor! I used an ex-dutch issue Fesca made 120l Saracen in the forces for many years, it served me amazingly well, and always grossly overloaded. Despite years of abuse and rough handling, it looks like it did the day I bought it (second hand).

Yeah I love the gun so much! and with the growing popularity of them I thought I should document what I did as there's Definity things I wish I knew coming into the system for the first time!

All you guys posting up pics of your collections are making me feel grossly inadequate and deprived. I'm wondering if I actually have an interest in guns or airsofting or am I just pretending. 😂😂 Regards Ps. This post was about storage not how many feckin' guns you can get in a picture 😂

Good topic! One day I will be treating myself to one of these, so no doubt this information will be invaluable 😬🤣

Babe wake up new APFG update, Okay yet another post, I've been busy. So the screws work perfectly so far with testing, I've also swapped out my maple leaf Mr hop 50 degree out for a flamingo 60, this was because I found that with the combination of Mr hop and crazy jet barrel the bb was getting seated slightly differently each time causing inconsistent hop affect . So far the flamingo has been much better however I haven't shot many shots through it. Also installed the GSI mcx hop arm with their soft nub, The tolerancing of the hole that the pin for the arm sits in was way too small so I drilled using a 2mm drill bit it out until the pin sat in snugly. The GSI hop arm is better as it has a flatter contact patch, as oppose to the original arm which has a thin rounded metal part which causes inconsistent bb hop especially when the power changes (very bad as GBB are always slowly loosing power). Also another thing to note is the JWI hop unit is a very snug fit in some spear! If there are anymore things I discover I will post them here Until then Enjoy!

You would be better off putting this in the classified section @Thomas french Good luck with the sale.

How dare you Sir... I use straight hangers with the hook cut off & smoothed using a dremel, some barrels are tighter than others so there's been a genuine concern about scratching the inner barrels, it's worth the risk to me as 95% of my collection will never be used in a game & I like them displayed this way. Each bracket has 4 screws holding it on & they're a good 4 inches deep (fnar) in the wall. As my collection has grown I've increased the wall cover with grids which means it's a bit too random for my ocd (ish), I'll eventually move my entire collection to my diningroom/son's bedroom (once my son get's his own place), I'll make sure the grid wall goes from the base boards to the ceiling so it's done right first time.

Update! I ordered M3 screws that were 8mm thinking they would be long enough but where too long so I cut them down slightly, they sit in a bit more providing more depth. Looking at the original screw the thread is demolished which is odd from factory. The picture left is the old one, the right is the new one. I’m going to replace both then test for a game day see if the thread gets destroyed on the new ones as well

The Met released their gun crime figures this morning and interestingly stated that 46% of the 386 firearms recovered last year were converted blank firers. Note that they have specifically said Blank Firers so hopefully we have moved away from the bollocks about "replica guns converted with tools bought from B&Q" that was being spouted back in 2006. I would be curious as to wether these were UK Spec or illegally imported European Spec front venting - I suspect the latter as that was the finding of Merseyside police a few years ago. https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.bbc.com/news/articles/cxee411r07xo.amp

5 x Nuprol mid caps for my mag fussy GC16. is this enough, now, for an evenings CQB?

eeeh a bit reductive tbf. It is indeed a motor, but with an internal control unit that may or may not interfere with the RIF's internal control unit. Also being a NGRS gun I wouldn't install something as violent as a brushless motor without making serious considerations about the durability of the internals. Regardless of the brand/RPM rating/Battery these motors do sport A LOT of torque which may destroy the pot metal internals TM NGRS guns are known for in a very short time.

Ok, so looking at gav's set up i need to invest in some slatwall clothes hangers too. I'm liking these. A LOT. And maybe another 100 or so pews. LOL (edit, oh shi*, may have just bought another two....) @gavinkempsell your pistols, are they just on single sticky outy rods that poke down the barrels? And TPH is correct, you may need a pith helmet in there...

My current view (avoiding as much of the detritis as possible).

Pews on the walls, kit in cheap box thingies, webbing etc hanging under pews & the floor usually strewn with detritis. Not recent pics but same idea currently.

Honestly I have no constructive advice to give, but if you want to feel better about your own situation, I have a roughly 2m x 3m room into which I cram: * My WFH office setup, so desk, 3 screens, printer, couple of laptops * Mine and the boys RIFs and assorted ammo, gas, optics etc etc * 3 x 1/10 RC touring cars, tools, spare bodies, wheels, transmitters * Motorcycle gear * Electric guitar and amp Each unique 'hobby' more or less has its own space, so everything is in one place, but it all has to get sorted out in a roughly 1m square of carpet if I'm going to use any of it that day. Here it is in today's game-day chaos. Thankfully all this will be in the boot of the car shortly and then once done it will get stacked up behind the office door. Thus my RIF storage is limited by how many gun cases you can fit behind the door and still open it.

Nothing too exciting but I wanted to give a shout out to CMAirsoft. They have 20% off site-wide sale and I was due a restock anyway so I spent a bit of cash. A day or two later I get an email saying that they're sorry but one of the owners is away on holiday and they can't process the order until he's back. They couldn't apologise enough and were ready to refund the order. I wasn't that bothered about waiting so I told them to leave it and just dispatch it when they could. The package arrives today and I find that they've given me a bottle of 0.32g and 0.25g BBs, a rifle sock and two lollies for free The sale is still live at the time of writing so go snag yourself some consumables with a decent chunk of change off.

BAN EVERYTHING🤬 (they'll just have to make shivs instead😏)

I'll go with "possibly" as well. When "samurai swords" were banned as a knee-jerk reaction to one incident that effected the political classes, the definition of "A curved blade of 50 centimetres or over" caught up pretty much every historical and replica cavalry sabre, falchion and tulwar. Arguable it covers many machetes as well, so this is a re-re-re-banning of those. When you look at the list of prohibited weapons that it's now a crime to own even in private, it's so broad that it essentially comes down to interpretation. Baton: A straight, side-handled or friction-lock truncheon. Blowpipe or blow gun: A hollow tube out of which hard pellets or darts are shot by the use of breath. So: a solid stick, or a hollow stick. The one that might already catch us is: Stealth knife: A knife or spike made of a material that cannot be picked up by metal detectors and which is not made for use at home, for food or as a toy. So be sure to buy a "toy" plastic knife, rather than a "training knife."