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Finally got my M4 back together after much wailing and gnashing of teeth over barrel lengths and nut threads! I present my Strike Back Stonebridge-esque impression: Assuming you can make it out in the background clutter! Laser is sat being all redundant as unfortunately the gun is front wired (plus the battery space in an MOE stock is nonexistent) so I've had to use a PEQ box (not strictly canon for a SB Stonebridge M4 but there you go - needs must). Torch is around somewhere but I'm waiting on a new short scout troch to go instead.

Yes, my first meme. Internet famous #official

Hello all, I would like to introduce you all to my primary BB slinger, this is Katya. She is a King Arms Snaiperskaia Vintovka Dragunova, aka SVD. I have always liked the SVD ever since seeing it in Metal Gear Solid, shes such a perdy piece of kit. I finally got around to attaching the scope. It was a bit difficult but shes on there and she looks lovely. Say Hi!

Last post: 21 May 2011 - 11:26 AM That's some necromancy right there. Do they have a valid defence for buying a realistic imitation firearm? If not then they can only buy an IF, which would be two tone.

it's not an insurance stipulation, there's only a couple of insurers that offer the specific insurance required for airsoft and they all sing off largely the same hymn sheet for what's covered and what's not.

I would like (but don't know if it's within insurance policies) to see sites who normally have full auto restrictions do a full auto evening every now and then. UCAP don't have the auto restrictions on any site and I find it brillint.

Its easy to run a sh!t site with few players, players who aren't friendly and lots of new people coming through. The challenge is to make a site that people want to come back to time and time again because it is everything a site is supposed to be and pushing all the time to get better, even if it means driving long distances or being inconvenienced to use it. I used to live in an area with about 4 sites within 40 mins drive, and another 4 within an hour. But where did I find myself playing on the most regular basis, 1hr 30mins away at UCAP Sandpit. Why? Because the day was just so much more enjoyable there than any of the other 8, the players were great, the marshals were nice guys who kept on top of things and the games were interesting. One of those 8 was TWA on Featherbed Ln. although I haven't played there I was warned off by some of my team mates. The one of the closest 4 I would have played more regularly was EAG Worthing but it was the furthest away from the rest of my teammates who all lived around the M25. The site itself isn't especially brilliant just because of its layout and that they cant really build anything structures wise, but the marshals and regulars were a really great bunch who did a hell of a lot with the little they had. Now I live in Norwich, but I'm itching to get back to the pit some time soon and it's a 5 hr round trip!!! I've sampled one of the sites in the area but have yet to give Gunman Norwich a go, I'm looking forward to it as Gunman have a damn good reputation.

I still wouldn't recommend it to be honest, not without extensive testing at the very least. We tested my friends after I told him they weren't very strong and the first shot (~335 fps) went straight through. There's a guy on arnies who tried his and within a few shots the entire thing broke into several pieces.You can't guarantee the quality of Chinese stuff so without thorough testing its not worth the risks IMO.

Probably none, its an aep so parts arent very common. GBBs have plenty as they're more common but aeps are more niche.

Jcheese, their chrono was wonky to start with which doesn't help, my gun had come in at 345fps bang on for 4 shots on .2's the week before (no tinkering in the mean time) at the Sandpit who have decent chrono's, I was using .25's at SWWG and told the marshal this and it chrono'd at 210fps on theirs (that is not a realistic change in fps and I maintain their chrono was reading much slower than it really was). I have since learned that if the batteries in the chrono's are low they are wildly inconsistent which may have been the cause. In addition people were setting their hops after chrono which will have effected their speed readings down at the check and back up after. 1. If people can't do the conversion between .2 and any other masses they should use a site mag or they should load 10 rounds of .2 into your mag, all done infront of you. 2. All chrono's should be checked prior to use I would suggest sites need more than one and should run a gun or series of guns through all before starting on the players to check consistency. 3. All players must set their hops prior to being chrono'd straight and level flight to be checked by the marshal before chrono. 4. Take care of all kit properly. I agree the full auto thing indoors was overkill but with some groundrules and sensible players it should have been ok. IE firing down the long "road"/corridors from one end to the other was ok on full but into buildings/or an MED for full auto I could respect. When I said it was a great little site, I mean it was a good laugh and their model really worked, they could change the layout easily, the games were engaging and energetic. Some of their rules and the things that happened were just plain wrong, but there are other indoor and cqb places that allow full auto, you just need to have the right sort of people that aren't dicks about it.

Well..I'm throwing myself in the ring here. Heres my newest purchase as off about 30 minutes ago. This is a FAST Helmet with built-in visor. Bought this from the local Gun Dr. and airsoft supplier who luckily happens to live just down the road from me. Bought this for Half Price...YAY DEALS! The patch on the helmet is what i usually wear on Desert Digi Cam BDU, NSA stands for Nova Scotia Airsoft

I see you have been putting it to good use... You must have shot a lot of Koala Bears to cover the stairs judging by your pictures Honestly though nice gun

Thank you sir. I must say I already like this forum here. Loving the forums and community here already.

You and me both brother lol. I got the PSO-1 scope with the rifle. Bought Katya off our "Nova Scotia Airsoft" Facebook page for $250 dollars. Came with a gun case (didn't have one before), of course the SVD, PSO-1 scope, tons of BBs, and a speedloader. I feel like there was something else but I don't think there is. I had a very hard time attaching the PSO-1 scope, after watching numerous Youtube videos on the subject, I watched one where a guy said if its having a hard time fitting over the lip, just lightly help it along the way with a hammer. As its a very sturdy metal, it can take it. The scope is now on, and I don't know why I liked the SVD without the scope on. It looked nice before just as is without the scope, but she looks like shes ready for a night out on the town with her fancy scope on. lol

yup - just had to have her, not got the "proper" scope for her yet but she seems ok atm & doesn't mind me not taking her out much and spending money on her (wish most women were like that)

Nice. I reckon she'd look even nicer with wooden furniture though. It's personal preference, but I always think a gun looks better if it has some woodwork on it.

Funniest use of props I have encountered: In a WW2 rifles only game our team were told to go and investigate a hut complex and report back on enemy activity and look out for any important looking documents etc. We got ambushed and had high casualties but a pile of papers was retrieved. It would seem that the German Officer (one of the organisers) had misplaced his copy of the game plan. What we had obtained was not the important documents we were supposed to be looking for and now the German team had no idea what they were supposed to be doing. Our officer upon seeing the important documents we had obtained for him, had a nervous breakdown as he realised that the game had gone horribly wrong.

Hi - got bolt & aeg version though bolt is best (you got the svd cocking lever from evike ($18 USD) to help pull heavy spring ???) most of my guns have similar names though - usually: Damn-it, $hit plus other profanities plus most magazines are called Crap-Mag (always blame gun/mag when I'm hit rather than myself for sucking at airsoft) Welcome to forum, ignore most of what I say - everybody else does

Shame they closed down?! Full auto CQB in a place the size of a shoebox where a 370fps AEG was allowed to play! I'm not surprised it closed down, it was run by morons.

Active braking "can" generate a little more heat (certainly don't make the motor run cooler) normal fets are negative or npn - triggers the negative supply on/off with active an additional positive fet (pnp) is used to reverse polarity to stop motor as said above In most "general" builds and if a high speed/torque motor is used then it probably will be ok without AB Most high speed/torque motors use neodym magnets (silver) as opposed to cheapo stock ferrite magnets (black) Neodym magnets are MUCH stronger than ferrite - if you can turn a motor over easily that is a ferrite a neodym is very hard to turn like stepper motors, these stronger neodym motors stop much quicker than ferrite motors that roll on & on when power is cut. So if using a stronger neodym motor you "may" not need to use active braking unless you are running a higher speed setup or DSG Using older ferrite motor and higher volts then you may find you need AB but that is if the old stock motor will be up to the job and if it can take any extra stress using AB fet. Me thinks most will upgrade motor to neodym so AB probably won't be needed unless you are going nutz If you are fitting the usual "external" mosfet then you can just do the main rewire on the switch/motor leads try a normal non-braking fet that should be fine for most setups - if it does over run or double fire then it is very straight forward to replace the NB fet with an Active Braking fet is my humble noobish opinion Soldering - there was a couple of threads on soldering deans and stuff a week or two ago with a vid also most soldering is a lot down to using decent iron,solder & perhaps flux plus a bit of practice not hard but like most stuff the more you do it the better you get (usually) deans thread: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/24451-what-deans-plugs-do-you-use/ There a number of ways to wire it all in, v2 gearbox's are a little more awkward than v3 as motor wires on v2 are inside box and if rear wired you have extra wire(s) running by motor spindle but you can run signal wire(s) externally if you are careful. When using thicker 16awg motor wire space gets tight inside a v2 where as v3 motor wires are external so to speak. It is not that hard if you can solder ok - all down to using decent stuff + practice and then add a little common sense

figured as much, but I couldn't resist

don't worry about everything matching, everyone should have one off-colour pouch on their rig anyway

A MOSFET is a metal–oxide–semiconductor field-effect transistor, in airsoft terms what it does is provide a 'remote switch' for running power to your battery directly to your motor, bypassing the trigger switch. The trigger switch will have a very, very small amount of power redirected to it and when that circuit is made, the MOSFET opens up the gates for the rest of that power to go through to your motor. It results in massively increased conductivity which improves trigger response and saves your trigger contacts (which were handling 11.1v for example... now handling 0.1v). Pre cocking, cycle completion, ROF control etc are all features of computerised MOSFETs, the principle is the same in that the trigger switch is bypassed, but there's extra circuitry to control timing and gear positions etc. Precocking for example when set up correctly will hold your piston on the last couple of teeth with the spring compressed, so your next trigger pull only requires the motor to turn a tiny amount to fire, this for an AEG is pretty much 'ultimate trigger response' as it's more or less instant. PTWs use this method to achieve their instant response. Rate of fire control on the more modern MOSFETs is done by cycling the gearbox almost in semi, very fast; the gearbox will cycle for one shot... wait a bit (measured in milliseconds) and then fire again, wait a bit.. fire again, this makes every cycle of the gearbox the same speed, but the rate at which BBs come out of the barrel can be changed at will. Active braking is a feature a lot of MOSFETs have now, even really small ones like the Gate PICO AB, when you release the trigger on your gun without an active braking MOSFET installed the motor doesn't stop immediately, it'll carry on spinning under it's own momentum for a very short time, with high torque and high voltage setups this can sometimes result in the gearbox cycling twice with one trigger pull, known as overspin. Active braking MOSFETs counter this by applying reverse current to the motor for a short time to stop it dead the very instant you release the trigger (or the cut-off lever disconnects the contacts for you in semi-auto), this stops overspin and in theory allows the gearbox to stop in the same position (or thereabouts) every time you pull the trigger.

Contemplating more stuff from eHobby Asia cos off the offers on Magpul stuff.

Holiday time deliveries, part 2. SLR Rifleworks Ultra Lite Handguard - 9", M-LOK Parallax Tactical PXT FFSSR - 13", KeyMod, Cerakoted BCM Gunfighter stock PIG FDT-Alpha gloves in tacticool new carbon grey Crye 556/762 Pouch Plat-A-Tac H Smock, medium organiser bag, pair of PALS mounted buckles + arid AUSCAM christmas stocking (nice surprise freebie) 1 x Patch

To be honest though if you're going to the effort of fitting an SMP, having the best externals to go with it would be my choice. The g&g might be far superior to you but if he's swapping the internals it doesn't matter as the vfc has the better externals.

Yep, all too often people spend a fortune on upgrades and convince themselves that their gun is better than it actually is. Plus no amount of tactical frippery makes up for being a crap shot!

King Arms M1A1 Stark G17 Gen4 2 of each Stark Glock frame pin (I should know the technical names.. but I don't) NOVA 1911 slide lock lever Shooters 1911 aluminium outer barrel Freedom Art extended TM SOPMOD mag catch button Pro-Arms 102rnd 40mm pleasure devices Glock key ring for causing incidents at airports Plat-A-Tac Tac Dax Rip-Stop, belt mounted Litelok dump pouch and 'BB' rifle mag shingle with pistol pouch Gerber strap cutter/glass breaker

Replica surefire FA556 flash hider, Red tip CAT Replica Aimpoint T1 (red only!) FMA LA5 PEQ with IR filters Night Evolution MPLS red/white/IR

I don't do COD...it annoys me. Well, the outbursts from younger fans who think they know everything about guns and the military are what annoys me; they story modes are pretty good to be fair. So when the Honey Badger made its way onto the airsoft scene, all I could think was 'oh great, a new gun for codsofters. AM TEH BESTEST GNU EVAR FOR DA PRO OPER8OR.' And it is made by ares....not exactly known for great quality guns. Gave it no thought and assumed it would be pants. Went with my best mate to JD Airsoft in Cannock, Staffordshire for a supply run in Late November and to get a few parts and we did the obligatory look around the shop at all of the guns. I picked up the honey badger to take the mick out of cod fans thinking I was being all clever and anti-codsofter and I have to say it made a lasting impression on me. Made one or two other visits in between then and yesterday. Everytime, I picked it up and thought 'I hate myself for this, but I love it'. TD;DR - Honey badger is nice and I'm a presumptious dickhead So, the Ares Honey badger. I caved in and got one as my scar is down due to piston stripping issues and I am short of fixing time due to my current work schedule. This review is a preliminary review and will not feature a performance review until I have skirmished it in 2or 3 weeks time. It will be split up into the following sections: Aesthetics/Quality Ergonomics/Manouverability Customisation (Internal/external) Overall (Pre-skirmish rating) So, aestehtics. Have to say, it looks great. Sleek, rounded, smooth and well finished; it certainly looks the past of being a modern-tech weapon. The upper and lower receivers are made from high density polymer/plastic, however it is heavy and very sturdy; among the sturdiest of all the guns I've seen/handled. It is well finished and smooth. The handguard is cnc'd aliminium (I beleive) and is also well finished. The combination of the two make the gun sturdy and nice to look at. The actual gun is great; only issue with it is the supplied iron sights. Having owned several rifles, all of which came with adjustable sights, I have gotten used to good iron sights to rely on when optics fail. The honey badger's were taken straight off. They are awful. They will probably do the job but they are not adjustable, are cheap plastic and just look sub-par compared to the rest of the gun. First I did was add my Eotech and a pair of canted iron sights as the stock ones aren't worth having on there. Not a big issue, but for a £250 gun before battery and upgrades etc, I expected a little better. Ergonomics/Manouverability This section will see the honey badger compared to a UMP/SCAR CQC/MP9/P90, as these are guns that I have used, which are used in CQB which is the honey badgers primary role as it attempts to bridge the gap between assault rifle and smg. It's controls are only for right handed users. No fire selectors on the right hand side for lefties and only 1 mag release which is on the right hand side. It does, however, feel brilliant when shouldered. Some bigger players may struggle as the stock only comes so far out. I'm 5'8ish so it fits me perfectly. It is lightweight but has enough weight to it to not feel like a toy. In fact, it is very heavy for what it is made from. Its weight is great; can be held for long periods of time when setup right (setup will have a factor in customisation section). It moves very well. Compact size will make corners a breeze. Customisation Version 2 gearbox installed inside, so there are the usual internal gearbox parts available. Comes with an in built suppressor and a tightbore; no need to upgrade there but there are options if you want to change them. One of the best features of the gun is the quick spring change system. When changing a spring in the average aeg, you have to take the gearbox apart; which requires disassembley of the gun and gearbox, plus reassembley. With this gun, you take the stock off, and the then unscrew the spring guide from the rear of the gearbox. Done. 1 Minute max. Really makes it spring changes easy. There is plenty of rail space. The ameoba style handguard allows placement of its rails to be changed. It comes with a spare small and spare medium rail. Customisation is endless due to this. It really makes it easy to make a system that you can comfortably use. It looks great with no attatchments other than an optic, however first thing I did was add Eotech, torch, laser and an EGLM grenade launcher. I don't intend to use it but it fits perfectly and damn it looks badass! Overall (Pre-Skirmish rating) Having spent a lot of time looking over the gun, I have to say I love it. Great look and feel, smaller size, great manouverability and a very snapper trigger. Have to say, I cannot wait to skirmish this gun. Original fps was 280. After adding a madbull m100, it how hits 328 consistently with a max of 330 and minimum of 324 after around 25 shots through an xcortech chrono. One issue for some is battery space. I bought an 11.1v peq battery from JD airsoft which fits perfectly. The issue is the length of the battery space rather than width. Longer lipos wont fit and most if not all nimhs wont fit. I'd give it a prelimary rating of 8/10, losing marks for battery space, poor stock iron sights and plastic rails. To summarise, if you want something that looks incredible and unique, has a great r.o.f, very quick spring change system and is both light and sturdy, then this is a contender.

Well... It's slightly better finished than Chock's, yet it still isn't well done IMO.

Didn't have the time to post on Xmas Eve, but I got my rifle! It feels great and the two tone doesn't look too bad! (It's two tone only across the top of the rifle and from a distance it looks like an all black rifle). Haven't had the time to shoot it yet, however the battery is on charge and I plan to shoot it tomorrow morning! Also purchased some gloves, Blaster devil bbs and an extra mag and battery. Not long until my first Skirmish at Holmbush DOGTAG Airsoft in January, so you could say the rifle arrived just in time! (I'm considering purchasing some extra accessories for my gun as well as gear and maybe a secondary). Anyway overall I'm very pleased with my rifle and cannot wait to test it out tomorrow! Also Chock I think the flash hider is meant to be like that as mine is exactly identical to your photo (with the cut out). However, I agree that it's not a smooth finish and isn't well done (at first I thought it was a chip)! Although, I could be wrong and it could just be a coincidence that both of our flash hiders have been damaged.

That's the shape they're supposed to be but you're right - it does look like it was done by the apprentice. On a Friday. Personally I'd have just junked it and got a decent metal one on there but that's just me and my profligate spending

Airsoft World replied to my ticket after I sent them some pics of the damaged flash hider on my G&G and said they would source a replacement and post it out to me, although it might take em a while, which is good customer service in my book, as the replies to my emails were very prompt, so I replied, that as long as it got sorted at some point, then there's no rush, as obviously it is a busy time for them as it is for all businesses doing mail order at Christmas. Anyway, since it is now daylight, I figured I'd take a pic of the damage so that it could actually be properly seen. Pretty obvious on a pic in daylight:

Just noticed that the flash hider on my (not quite as shiny as it is supposed to be) new G&G 30th Anniversary M4 which I bought, is broken at the tip. I've emailed them about it; hopefully they will send me a replacement one rather than making me go through all the hassle of packaging the thing up and sending the entire gun back to them and having them send me another. I would have thought that'd make more sense, since it would cost them less to stick a flash hider in an envelope than it would to courier a new gun to me.