Sitting Duck

probably a lightweight pistol so I can run faster nothing in particular, looking at few but need to be aware of the risks I just saw this meme again recently & could totally relate to it - that's all (soz for being an ass & derailing it a bit, but many might relate to it too)

The dilemma I face...

Linkage issue, likely one tooth out or wear On a reg V3 there is the tab that locks the trigger solid The iffy semi/auto is a common problem on AK's Where linkage is worn or not quite correctly located (It "could" be one tooth out on rear linkage Or something is binding when box is refitted into receiver impeding its operation) Investigate further, likely something stupid out of whack on reassembly

shimming is a pita that you get better at the more you do it (hopefully) there's loads of tutorials how to do it & some good/bad a bit loose is better than bit tight yes you kinda start with bevel to pinion but also attention to how the sector is shimmed (roughly half/half spaced but attention it operates but no rubbing on COL or too high sector cam rubs on box casing) plus attention to how the spur shims to both sector (swirl pattern if too close) and attention to ensure plenty of bevel's 10 teeth mesh to spur etc... (if bevel shimmed high & spur really low, little of 10 teeth mesh and stuff flies off or crunches under stress or mild lock up so shimming is all about the spacing of gears/drivechain and how all the components engage as close to perfection as possible (not always very easy to achieve) IF you was on bushings I'd say a ROUGH BALL PARK... Bevel - 0.2mm shim on top, no biggy about underneath really not a massive biggy on JUST this gear underneath coz motor pinion ensures it ain't going far (if you got a small shim left at end then take up some of slack if you wish to) Spur/Step gear 0.2mm UNDERNEATH (whatever is required on top to take up most of slack) Sector gear 0.25mm to 0.3mm roughly so it sits a whisker higher than spur (hopefully avoiding swirls from gears touching in rotation) whatever on top to take up slack, should sit about half way spaced in box for sector gear as you got bearings it is likely you might have a bit more lateral play than on bushings so add 0.05 to 0.10mm to these ref points THE ABOVE IS ONLY A VERY ROUGH STARTING POINT, you have to adjust shit accordingly as each box & gears/build vary loads check motor height with bevel in top half of box on v3's a bit of shrill can be reduced by loosening the motor cage and slightly shifting it, tilting the motor angle slightly to mesh smoother nozzle not returning - uhmm it doesn't always return 100% anyway in most instances the nozzle begins to retract before the piston starts to retract & often the gun's cycle is slowed/stopped by piston retraction or rather the tension on spring building and slowing the motor which means theif nozzle often is at least partial retracted or even starting to release if running quick (and on guns with plenty pre-cock the nozzle has returned already in preparation of firing/piston releasing) so this nozzle fretting is not a big issue in "most" new tech concerns obviously if it isn't operating or jamming then that is another issue but nozzle position is not (usually) a big concern select linkage and stuff - yeah they are a bit of wank safety is that triangle tab on gearbox that jams the 2 part trigger the linkage is a git to get correct if the rear teeth are not aligned correctly (and stay in place as you try to drop the whole thing back in receiver) also clean & lightly grease and parts of selector/linkage checking they glide as smooth as silk if any burrs, smooth them out and ensure it all glides/operates smooth as silk stiff operation on selector mechanism shit will just mean more wear in linkage/selector components sooner massive tip - take photo's on your phone - LOTS OF PHOTO's then you will see how shit goes back together in particular if a certain spring or component goes face down or face up eg: a trigger trolley spring (you don't have one on etu) on reg setup v2 especially can make a difference which way round the body of spring is placed or its orientation (in the way the spring sits to clear the groove in the underside of tappet plate etc...) on selector mechanism at rear - mark it with a pencil to ensure the marks re-align on assembly or other shit like that - just a couple of examples you takea pic or three will greatly assist in reassembly

Don't know if you tried this but wonder if it is the reset to default option or if it is a "Whoa fuck me - what ya doing bro" warning... But the Perun ETU plays Michael Jackson - Smooth Criminal (Eddie are you OK) if you fuck about with it... WTF ???

TBH you got an option to replace the ETU mosfet unit G&G £36 aprox if you can find one or perun £50 inc ship from bravo/bullseye country sport in NI (good seller) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perun-Airsoft-Upgrade-Mosfet-Kit-For-G-G-ETU-System-AB-LiPo-Ready-Burst-bbs/133377231128?hash=item1f0de70918:g:vv0AAOSwhQhehetA OR contact Luke/Negative Airsoft perhaps You could buy a V3 box, hopefully an AK with AK nozzle, trigger, selector and hope it fits OK some v3's don't always simply slide into all other guns as is, at times a bit of modding required (some will gladly take a std Cyma v3 & others will take a JG one but might need modding or vice versa) those are two very common/cheap v3's out there, but there "might" be some minor fitting niggles to overcome hence if you got a sound box that is compatible - stick with that and have it rebuilt (Luke or some other respected tech) They can overhaul it and no doubt if old it is need of service and doubt if compression/seals are that great Chuck in a basic mosfet, maybe the tiny perun https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perun-Micro-Airsoft-Mosfet/164224757298?epid=25036277200&hash=item263c8eee32:g:zngAAOSwP7ZdHKsv So you can run on 11.1v, new col, trigger switch & some other bits n bobs give it the once over and getting firing all dandy yes labour & shipping issue, but atm you got a £300 when new gun that is wanked so spending a bit of money WISELY is not such a bad thing you can go nutz or Luke will advise you on the best cost effective course of action according to your budget Or you can attempt to have a go yourself if you feel up to it, but will require some rewiring/soldering or clean it up, slap some grease in there & buy the perun etu those are the 3 options I would consider (than buy a box that shoots too hot on an imported cyma v3 box & hope it fits first time)

Pity G&G don't use them instead of Dairy Lea ETU units, especially on their higher price guns nice to know it works well, but wish they was cheaper, even £50 inc shipping is a bit much I'm being a bit miffed, but mainly coz the G&G unit is so shit (some people have been lucky and works fine still even on 7.4v, but there are a lot of issues with ETU's) Paying a bit above other similar guns, to then have to be faced with replacing something that is so defective spending around £50 or so, or at least a tenner converting it back to basic trigger plus time/cost is a wank G&G - lovely looking guns, but jeez some of their ideas & innovations have made matters worse not more reliable G&G R&D dept: ETU design & testing... The most annoying thing is that you can't just plug a basic mosfet in due to the 4 thin wire lead, one is power, then a signal to each of 3 switches (power, trigger, col switch & slector switch at back of trigger unit) so the fucking thing is only for the ETU & can't drop a basic mosfet or warfet or owt in there so you are faced with another Dairy Lea G&G ETU mosfet, luckily the Perun option but still not cheap or rip the whole lot out and start again old school real PITA these fancy bespoke units - especially with G&G's reliability (ultra sarcasm)

Yup ETU 1 is red and the ETU unit is fucking wanked wanked wanked Had a FFR2 A2, changed motor and it blew the ETU - WTF ??? Ripped it all out, old school trigger switch, 13:1 etc... So me personally that is what I would do or there is the option of Perun unit but it ain't ultra cheap.... https://www.taiwangun.com/en/wires-lasers/g-g-etu-upgrade-kit-perun?from=listing&campaign-id=19 Yeah it is very tricky to install (sarcasm) but supposed to work properly http://perunairsoft.pl/products/gg-etu-upgrade-kit/ but me personally I'd rip it all out and go back to traditional old school trigger coz G&G will still be a bit Dairy Lea, Perun won't leave you much change out of say £60 with shipping and for that price, I could spend on 13:1, 25~30k motor, steel rack piston & cheap basic or diy (non burst bollox) mosfet (you got 22k motor so forget the 25/30k motor, maybe 16:1 gears, 13:1's might be a bit too quick unless you short stroke on 11.1v a couple of bushings under spur & maybe bevel, basic mosfet, normal switch, steel rack piston (shs blue perhaps & cyma piston head or something that provides good seal, run on 11.1v sorted) Well that is likely what I'd do but to each their own - but fuck G&G's ETU bollox imho PS - looking at your pic, you might need a new COL, as it looks a bit different to reg v3 COL (the lug that pops the reg trigger trolley looks to be set back to activate the micro switch on ETU trigger board) see that wedge bit on right of arm, looks different to the G&G one in your ETU box so a steel SHS COL might be needed to go old school, I noticed when I checked your pic - just saying Before you do owt, test the board is completely dead by just having motor out of box change fuse, but likely it is fucked mine went a bit wanky, kept blowing fuses with motor out of box and got hot yeah fuck that shitty unit right off I decided

Bit confused here.... It "sounds" like a possible COL but gun is new-ish or recently purchased (but then 2 round burst on auto sounds odd) Ahhh but it is an ETU fuck pig so that would explain a burst on auto (but that would be 3rnd or potential 5rnd burst option on ETU2 units) Now we know the common AK selector issue going from semi/auto/semi etc... But this TWO round burst is a bit odd - should be 3 (and/or 5 round burst) on ETU I would have thought but still get single shot semi & then 3 (or 5 option on blue etu2) or just auto on ergh auto First of all - what battery are you using ETU's can/do play up on 7.4v so best to run on 9.6v or 11.1v, (11.1v is best perhaps) (normally, iffy etu's simply refuse to work on lower 7.4v, but wondering if lower volts causing an issue) Secondly - RTFM (Read The Fucking Manual) for info about setting/changing the burst mode COULD be an iffy ETU - the main unit near battery, as they are made from Dairy Lea Turn off/disable the burst mode (RTFM) and start again so semi & auto operates correctly In that sort of gun, I would have just used 11.1v with 18k motor to get you near say 20rps and with the 22k you should be on or just a whisker over 20rps It appears to be crane stock AK so assume the battery goes under the hood/dust cover which this battery MIGHT be about your limit - but YOU need to check it will fit (inc wires) https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-1300mah-3s-25-50c-lipo-airsoft-pack.html?queryID=c2ca5915ed20ee36fc43e6fc49de517d&objectID=31045&indexName=hbk_live_magento_en_us_products RTFM, check your battery is OK, and give us a bit more info... it might be a moody selector, but the etu causes more issues in some guns than it is supposed to solve or if gun is still in warranty contact retailer (hmm good luck with that) but I'm a little confused with 2rnd burst in both modes so if possible read manual, turn off burst etc... and update us with a bit more info perhaps

It is an updated D-Boys 416 or rather 614 or BI-8001 or 801 (or other variation of codes/styles) They chucked in the outer extension barrel on the 614 but had a shorter barrel on mine My 416/614 had a horrid clear plastic hop unit I think, that never really held its setting and mediocre at best & gearbox was a 7mm bearing reinforced V2, meaning it needing a bit of modding to fit 13:1's mine were front wired with a PEQ box, that got rewired to rear Gun is pretty weighty as it is Aside from a few meh bits n bobs it is a pretty decent cheap 416 without trades cheaper than the WE 888 416, though the D-Boy does need a few tweaks where some cost corners were cut (fine if you don't mind a bit of DIY, maybe not for others who are not wanting to gut their new peew peew) Nice to see a better hop unit and longer barrel on this model Might be a 8mm box by now, think D-Boys have just used/sold/changed the name & revised their 614 a bit Nice budget 416's, needs a tweak but overall I'm pleased with my 416/614's for what I paid for them NB: sorry to crash thread, would love to see if the box has been updated when you get a chance nice purchase & review btw (mods - please delete this post as it would likely spoil an excellent review of new 416)

Bloody beautiful if may say so if anybody stages a POTC night then Jack Sparrow will be in touch... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S46TLFLGEcY

Is JustBB still a bad company in 2020? think it is a bad company whatever the year or vintage (it ain't like fine wine that gets better with age) so is still a bad company... seriously they are the LAST company I would ever order from OnlyBBGuns or BBGuns4Less are a tiny tiny bit better than Jambwow But ONLY IF YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE BUYING !!! coz they still sell crappy plinkers mostly but they do sell some stuff that isn't complete $hit I'm NOT recommending this but here is an example.... https://bbguns4less.co.uk/products/cyma-cm517-m4-with-ras-handguard-in-blue.html Now that ain't bad at first glance with free ship & if you get a discount code BUT I will lay money that is gonna be a hot 390fps gun so needs downgrading so money you thought you might save over a 330fps one at a decent retailer or buying a better G&G Raider or something, will be lost getting it downgraded (or time for somebody to sort it out, plus still be a cheapo Cyma M4 model) So the best advice before parting with money on buying the best gun evvvaaaaaa is to have a butchers & pop back with some links of what you are considering Honestly - don't make some of mistakes many of us made buying stuff from Mickey Mouse Alright Geez Dominic at BBGuns4Less sells some half decent stuff (but most stuff on there is back garden plinky stuff) Same as Only - aka iWholesales sell some stuff but many are not so great So be careful what you fall in love with & not just the cheap pricing When buying your first gun...

That is a lot of money when really you only need this..... PS I love the 18yr warning about this not a f**king toy

it has but I've hung up my guns now I reckon (long story - even by my war & peace standards) just before stuff hit the fan I got hold of these motors..... https://www.aliexpress.com/item/PermTerminator-Ultra-Custom-M160-High-Twist-Type-High-Speed-Motor-High-Torque-AEG-Motor-Short-Axis/2042149112.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.16.46e8542f3EI3Q9&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3_10065_10068_10130_10547_319_317_10548_10696_10192_10190_453_10084_454_10083_10618_10307_10820_10301_10821_10303_537_536_10902_10059_10884_10887_321_322_10103,searchweb201603_51,ppcSwitch_0&algo_expid=b8d37fa9-7fde-446f-88e1-aee119a81029-2&algo_pvid=b8d37fa9-7fde-446f-88e1-aee119a81029&transAbTest=ae803_3 & https://www.dx.com/p/gear-motor-for-m180-m4-m16-mp5-g3-m14-power-upgraded-airsoft-aeg-2001815#.XHx0WcD7TIU the blue looked nice with vents at about 28k & red one at about 22k both are neodym with alloy ends that seemed to mesh nicely with SHS bevels but everything got packed away so never got round to putting them through their paces they looked pretty decent and not too crazy or expensive both with D pinions so easier to change than ASG O pinions I only really popped in coz such a slow day today and wondered how you guys were doing then f*ck me necro post nearly four years of the HC05 - but thought I'd best point out the BD M160 is too quick/hot yeah chaps - you don't want them crazy mofo motors - way too hot & OTT if you know how to build a good box well I just popped back as it was so quiet today etc.... Duck Jnr is half way through his first year at Uni - 19 years old - jeeeeeeez seem like only last month we racked up at TWA urban site (soon closed) at Crystal Palace/Anerley Hill Glad to see you guys & this place still around

The only correction to all that crap is try NOT to buy a Big Dragon M160 motor Yes it is fast as f*ck but draws way too much - it is a cheap fast high speed motor I'd say a smidge quicker than SHS High Speed - again try to avoid High Speed Motors (they drain you battery very quickly and generate more heat) The Big Dragon I originally thought was the dogz nutz but eventually too much heat long term will lead to bearings in motor armature itself crapping out (trust me) A "balanced" 27~30k motor like along the lines of SHS HT - but I've been away a while so unsure on any new stuff but around that spec Still think DSG's are over-rated, most long term box fiddlers might agree with this but new comers are often blinded by high ROF is everything and must get/build one - naaaahhhhhh 13:1 gears, Short Stroke if you wish & balanced motor will get you into the twenties which is plenty on 7.4v 25c (unless you are over compensating for crap shooting ability like I was/am) Just a quick note in case people thinking of buying the awesome BD M160 - maybe not it will crap out due to ultra high speed and heat generated and you will need extra batteries (trust me) A more sensible motor will run cooler, draw less amps and last longer (if done properly) and when paired with a 13:1 gear set will produce same results as dumping a HS motor in reg box but Amps/Watts will be much lower and battery/box will last longer than a reg box with M160 motor Another thing is that ORIGINALLY G&G DID make a DSG with cut off lever cams though this was a limited production run way before HC05 was made maybe they had to pull it for copyright issues with Seigetek so pulled the 3mm axle with cams then made a 5mm axle no semi cam DSG - yeah WTF ??? see here on an old Amazon Japan site pic shows the 3mm axle and cut off cams.... This was probably the gear set option showcased by G&G at the 2015 Shot Show with 3mm axle & COL cams Alas the HC05 went into production with crappy 5mm axle & no semi DSG gear - absolutely stupid idea So yeah - avoid the G&G HC05 & perhaps a QUICK UPDATE - lol on the M160 motor is way too quick (just in case you think of getting one of those bad bot motors as they really are quick - ergh too quick & warm running) Just a quick update, mainly in case people are thinking of buying the M160 motor - old review of mine and my choice today would be a 30k not 45k motor (ultra high speed & heat is not the be all & end all I have learnt the hard way) Edit - pasted the SHS DSG on Amazon instead of the old G&G one - doooh my bad removed the SHS link & updated.... G&G did originally make a 3mm axle DSG gear with COL cams (probably showcased in 2015 but likely pulled due to copyright issues) So they made the poxy 5mm axle no semi gear instead - stupid doesn't even cover it see here G&G's Riot rip-off clone DSG with 3mm axles & COL cams no longer made if only they had put this in or come to an agreement with Riot/SHS or something the HC05 would have had semi https://www.amazon.co.jp/ARMAMENT-G-10-102-Double-Sector-Gear/dp/B007JQGHPK

If you have done the above then you "should" be looking at.... 24rps on 7.4v & 37rps plus on 11.1v That is about the best I have come up with on 13:1 SHS HT bushings & SS a few of teeth m115 etc... Even then when I used a 11.1v 33c on a 10 sec auto burst it hit 40rps & ripped the rack out (PME) Suffice to say there is always a limit- especially on UK 350 fps guns A UK regular gun (full stroke not Short Stroked) will be limited to mid 20's due to lower spring/fps Around 20~25rps you start getting overspin - GUN IS STARTING TO TALK TO YOU Serious overspin & beyond is where gun starts to shoot twice on semi - TAKING THE PI$$ NOW Keep pushing a gun like this and and you will be rebuilding your gearbox and picking out bits of teeth soon (it is not a question of IF but actually how soon you WILL be reopening your gearbox) Best bit of advice - use a 25~30c 7.4v to hit mid 20's Drop the 11.1v is a std gun (with a mosfet perhaps) to boost a sluggish gun The 25rps limit is a sensible limit in the end without going nutz doing more work/homework Yes if you use a m120 SS a few teeth you will get into the 30's (low to mid 30's) again even with a bit of homework like I did you still hit a ceiling of high 30's~40rps So you have to understand and grasp the fact there are limits especially on UK spec guns and what Legacy says for USA 40rps guns does not translate 101% for UK guns This backed up by first Krytacs imported (grey imports) came with a 30k motor on a m100 not m120 They eventually started to use slower 20k motor as 30k & m100 risked PME if 11.1v used on UK guns (wasn't a dead certain piston would strip but 330fps was sailing closer to PME than US 400 fps guns) Feeding problems are yet another ball ache.... Correct nozzle length Max tappet retraction - not delay/duration but distance retracted without bottoming out Checking for hop/bucking lips tight/fouling Magazines - some work some not so great Mid Caps are not always better than High Caps, they can jam (had that before) People describing faults incorrectly.... My gun is firing two bb's at once - unlikely more like it is mis-feeding/mis-chambering a bb then next bb loads and two bb's appear out of barrel eg: 1 - 1 - 1 - 0 - 2 - 1 - 1 - 1 - 0 - 2 - 1 - 1 etc..... The above is likely tight bucking lips or fouling of lips causing it to mis-feed/chamber then next bb does load and fire OK so two bb's appear out of barrel and everyone loses their $hit But it is NOT double feeding but mis-feeding/chambering On M4's some mags mat shift hop a little and this tiny smidge can effect feeding or fps even Some info on hop problems - well worth a watch: Wouldn't start modding hop units tbh unless you really know what you are doing and 200% sure I DO NOT SUGGEST MODDING HOPS !!!!! BUT some of the TESTS like the bb push test for tight bucking lips is why I posted this Well worth a watch if you have mis-feed issues to check hop/bucking BUT there are many reasons why some guns have feed issues as I tried to list If the nozzle retracts only 5mm then is doesn't matter if a delay clip holds back the tappet for 1 hour It will never allow a 5.95mm bb to feed if it retracts only just over 5mm say This is backed up but rapid 50rps+ DSG's don't use delay clips - coz they can't They might use a tiny sleeve/pipe over two sector tappet cams to nudge the retraction a whisker but they can't use a big delay clip due to rapid cycling of gun & ultra short fin/tappet retraction timings I was the exact same - go faster guns are everything alas it is not that easy to achieve on UK guns After a sharp learning curve of wrecking more guns than I "thought" I fixed I eventually came to understand the limits and problems a lot more over the years After understanding this and a likely limit of mid 20's for reg build guns I no longer give a f*ck how quick a gun cycles past say 20rps (Twenties is plenty tbh) I now no longer listen to how quick a gun cycles in final rps but more so how ssmmmoooooootttthhh is cycles plus how well the gun & the owners operates together (efficiency/accuracy plus if the owner is dick or not) Long rant - but main point of reply is to ease up on the juice perhaps if your gun is cycling as quick as I think it might be it won't be long before stuff fails I personally would wind it back a bit where less PME risk and likely feeds better (but mainly for reducing risk of PME) up to you but trying to help you learn from mine & others mistakes than make the exact same ones as me & others did at first

Oddly enough they had a promo running that they ended a week early without warning - ended on about 14th/15th May where as anybody who has been a GF customer that more often than not they extend these promotions https://gunfire.pl/-Hot-Shot-SPECIAL-OFFER-TERMS-CONDITIONS-cinfo-eng-1140.html the Hot Shot promo was due to end on 21-05-2018 about 2:00pm UK time previously it would be be quite usual to extend this date another week maybe but it ended a week earlier - without warning ???? now they do say they can retract this offer early if they decide but very out of character or out of the usual practice they have used in the past Hope anybody with pending orders/payments gets this matter resolved asap

Still took your money and shipped from same place though..... well - like I say the GF points has gone a bit $hit lately what remains of the now limited range of freebies

Really ??? well lately the GF points have gone to $hit used to get the odd freebie now & then - that came in handy perhaps heck even a 1kg bag of Rocket bb's is ok for nowt but they scaled back on the range of items to buy for points about 3 months ago Actually TWG used to do something similar too but was phasing it out in 2014 when I started (no such thing as a free lunch/suppressor I guess)

yup - some of the offers at GF & TWG are insane GF still do free shipping on 225 Euro orders - unlike TWG who stopped free shipping a month or so ago