Sitting Duck

Yes go with SHS gears to SHS pinion imho... Apart from presumed better meshing, You can add delayer if required, (Try adding one to a bearing - good luck), Plus think the SHS bevel is a bit more robust than, the others with 8 latches, just the bevel to spur teeth, tend to be a little less chunky that SHS bevels 10 teeth. Well that is what I'd go with myself if they shim up ok, SHS can be a bit chunky/fat in some boxes, But reckon they just got the edge for durability imho

They're not that good... Mostly play with pussies. or some gay arseholes

The person(s) to ask would be @Jedi_Master or @proffrink if you can't contact seller directly, then perhaps see if you could leave a message or ask a question in the advert itself & then seller might be able to reply/pm you The reason why restrictions are placed on newly created accounts is coz otherwise AF-UK gets a load of shit spam offering fake ID's, exam certificates Viagra etc... etc... etc... So I'm guessing the restriction on contacting members regarding ads is to avoid potential spammers & scammers bombarding sellers etc... yes it is a pain perhaps, but I've seem other forums for other subjects/interests impose a couple of hundred posts before you can even see classified ads section we still get the odd spammer/scammer sign up but thanks to some restrictions, the clean up & moderating is lessened (but must still be a pita for mods to deal with at all sorts of weird hours) make some posts, introduce yourself, talk about crap not just to bump your post count up, but also to demonstrate your genuine interest in peew peew to show to mods/members you are not just joining to buy toy guns from people get posting, but not spamming/shit posting (that's my job btw) contact/ask people but don't pester them - await a response & eventually AF-UK will recognise you without restrictions etc... welcome to AF-UK, #1 airsoft forum for big kids that never grew up

Your best option is either a Perun Optical V2 MOSFET, or rip the G&G DSG out and replace with SHS DSG with 9mm bushings... or JB Weld something to create crude cams for ASTER to detect (it may not need very large pronounced cams created as the axle is larger 5mm compared to reg 3mm axle, there is a slight risk this large sector axle may confuse the ASTER, but the radius would only be 2.5mm compared to 1.5mm & the height of any cam would be greater than this, so it should be possible imho) Either way there is some cost/work involved, The Perun would be maybe the best option if you could swap the ASTER for a Perun Optical ??? (ASTER is just under $70 on Evike & Perun is just over $70) The ASTER is a decent option for boxes where say the 2-part Titan needs modification to box to avoid fouling/shorting on some re-enforced boxes - think Krytac boxes need a bit of modding Where the ASTER is a one piece unit, so no risk of fouling/short from top half of unit (ergh - coz it doesn't have a top half on ASTER) Unfortunately - it reads the sector COL cam, which normally would work fine in almost any v2 box Alas coz the G&G's HC05 DSG has no cam(s) at all it won't work properly so make the cams like TSG vid showed & test/retest or use the Perun v2 Optical I suggest you try & read some of the modifications I did to mine a while back, You can skip most of me moaning about it, but your cylinder might have a hole drilled in it too But focus or translate what stuff I did when I opened it... One day I might fit a Perun in mine, But it is a quirky gun as is with no semi. G&G did this with no semi to avoid copyright from Seigtek/Riot, Who had the idea/concept of the DSG. Shame - could have been an awesome gun, But as usual G&G didn't quite get it right So HC05 owners are left with a CQB gun that doesn't fire on semi and left to ponder, what way is best to finish the gun that G&G failed to do it's so annoying, coz G&G did made a clone of Riot's DSG with cams on 3mm axles https://www.guay2.com/en/product/detail-996 But for legal reasons I guess, went with a bespoke 5mm no semi one instead to make some weird, odd lemony pig of a FireHawk DSG instead Where as, G&G could have cut a deal with Riot perhaps and/or approach Perun and buy in bulk the v2 optical plus also their better ETU - now ETU++ than make their own crappy DairyLea ETU Naaahhh, they wouldn't do that... Why not ??? Specna Arms use Gate mosfets in some of their guns from the X-ASR, also the ASTER and I think the Titan too Once again, G&G let their pride get in the way or rested on their laurels, allowing others to catch up & even surpass them sometimes

updated my previous reply... look to resolve the safety issue though m8 apart from that - very very very well done squire

Now the "fun" begins with learning the programming of it all bit of a MENSA test getting ya round it at first but you suss it - or there's always the reset/default option to fall back on for when you totally screw up the settings lmk when you get it play House of the Rising Sun semi + 3 rnd burst or precocking tweaking or binary trigger bollox reckon is what many fuck about with but hopefully you sorted it all with some fancy features (and deans pre-fitted) The safety issue might be the arm a tiny smidge too big/tight that it catches and fails to rise 101% to fully engage & stop the trigger moving might just require a light file/sanding of the arm/leg of safety to allow it slip into position (had a similar thing with a SHS flat trigger, just a smidge tight fit/compatibility) I mean the arm might not be rising or compatible with trigger but not got it front of me but reckon it might be the safety arm & red trigger might just be a little too snug that the arm is impeded at last bit that it slips under trigger no biggy for you atm you might think BUT IT WILL BE if you go to a site and the SAFETY does not function correctly yeah you can programme it auto-semi-auto-semi etc... but at some point you MUST sort that safety out Don't matter if you know about it others may not (like your own kids) and things being what they are... a non-working saftey - don't pull the trigger coz safe doesn't work... yeah that won't work it is like like a sign that says WET PAINT - don't touch EVERYBODY tests it - YUP still wet paint (it's dumb arse human nature to touch wet paint) have a tinker but look to resolve that safety asap

The thing the check is the top half of the box... many boxes have extra material/lugs to steady ye old trigger trolley switch your old 516 box flipped so top half is showing first... on that 516 box which is slightly different to the 621 box there are 2 larger horizontal lugs followed by a thinner yet longer dash also extra material around sector bushing area etc... and stuff like this is where/why some fancy installs need a bit of dremel work so the unit doesn't foul on the extra material... now that is the 516 box the 621 box has less extra material and seems to be less pronounced... Pheas airsoft opening the 621 shows this... Now the Perun has a rectangular " U " cut out of it on top half... so it "should " not foul on some boxes - BUT REALLY NEED TO CHECK TO BE SURE the lower part of unit should sit fine in the box & the larger eyelet should slip into position OK (hopefully) you just need to carefully with top half of gearbox - if any material/lugs risk shorting or pressing/touching the unit when box is closed up the only other thing to check if the two halves connect too closely and/if your sector is shimmed way to high... then the sector gear might rub on the sector gear sensor(s) I think you will be OK but if you was using a chunky SHS sector gear and shimming high then it needs checking or space the two halves with some thin foam to ensure clearance (This from a cheap T238 install clip, but shows what I mean) The little white rectangular sensors are a little pronounced on the pcb's but Perun have ultra checked it for compatibility all the same in a number of boxes so it "should" be OK without risk of rubbing on sector gear itself BUT each build is always a tiny bit different and should be checked when fitting (check lugs & check sector rubbing on sensor) Apart from a couple of things to check - it should be moderately straight forward One other minor issue you might get if the trigger pull goes too far in some cases the trigger trips the trigger sensor, but travels a whisker further that it clears it the other side of sensor and thinks trigger is at rest when it is at full pull this won't be a real issue in mild guns but in much faster guns it will confuse the Perun So in those guns close attention to the trigger & its complete start/finish points plus adjust the rest/travel limits on fancy fucking expensive speedy trigger bollox like Maxx etc... In other words - chuck your red trigger in - should be alright but if it acts weird investigate tigger or try old one to see which one is better as said - on a reg gun this trigger travel/sensor issue probably won't present itself but if does see here... or a mild trigger mod with some Blue Peter sticky back plastic, washing-up bottle, toilet roll will sort it I guess but just a few things to look out for when installing the Perun though being smaller than others like Titan, ASTER, T238 etc... and the box not ultra re-enforced with extra big massive lugs/material everywhere it "should" offer less potential issues when installing and pre-wired ready to go almost The wire it comes with is 1.0mm Cross Section Area - which is actually 17awg than 16awg but same if not better than many guns that come with thinner 18awg NB: I do not work for Perun, nor get commission either but give credit where credit is due they done some good cost effective innovations from starting out knocking out the basic Perun which was based upon the Firestorm mosfet which in turn was based upon the Extreme-Fire SW-Lynx (so basically they was all using the Nexperia PSMN1R0-30YLC115) and somebody in US is still knocking out a similar looking Lynx thingy today... Anyway - they knocked out the Perun basic but soon turned their attention to other stuff and especially on the poxy G&G ETU - they created a direct replacement for ETU owners (this alone deserves a big thanks) then they created a smaller simplified optical that in theory is a more easier install than others So yeah, not working for Perun, not on commission - just giving credit where credit is due (and still not a big fan of fancy bollox mosfets, but if they're your thing then Perun is worth a look)

I'm not 101% certain but the ASTER might not work with the HC05 Well not out of the box... The HC05 DSG sector has no COL cams on it (well unless G&G has revised it) The ASTER optically reads the COL cam on the sector gear for timings Yeah.... One problem - the 5mm axle G&G DSG doesn't have any cams to read So it ain't gonna do jack shit as far as I can tell A similar problem with the ASTER and the TSG conversion thingy is that affixing the top half of TSG to a reg lower half sector means you only have ONE COL cam for the TRI-SECTOR-GEAR (or affixing a DSG upper to a 12:1 lower sector to create a 6.25:1 ratio - only ONE COL CAM) So the TSG or 12:1 DSG in an ASTER means it will fire 2 or three times (one full revolution) then the ASTER's optical sensors set at an angle finally detect the single cam NOW you could build your own "cams" for the ASTER to detect but will involve a bit of testing & shaving see this video to understand it a bit... He has the ASTER and this is what he had to do to get the TSG to operate in semi correctly and in theory similar crap would apply to the HC05 DSG with no cams to begin with Another thing to watch for is that many of these fancy mosfets are quite large and even on 8mm bushings they come close to the outer edge of the sector's 8mm bushing (they clear it, but on some models it is a little closer than others) The HC05 has 9mm so called ceramics which are quite chunky Yes you can replace these with 5KU 9mm bushings & 9mm SHS bearings However - the G&G cam-less DSG (and the default Spur/Step gear) has 5MM Axles not 3mm ergh so you can't just use a lower profile 9mm bearing or a 9mm bushing without enlarging the 3mm to 5mm Now you "might" just about be OK with fitting the ASTER with the ultra chunky 9mm G&G ceramic with 5mm axles but they are a bit chunky from what I remember and here is pic of ASTER - with the red led beaming downwards trying to pick up the COL cam on sector (which doesn't exist on G&G DSG unless you make them up from JB Weld etc...) Really - what you should have bought was the Perun v2 Optical... as it is much smaller - so totally misses the 9mm chunky ceramics plus the sensors pick up the sectors teeth for timings - not COL cam so would work on the cam-less G&G DSG & not be tight on chunky ceramics The gear set in the HC05 is a reg 18:1 ratio with a 10 tooth bevel I'm pretty sure of but the spur/step gear was a weird 5mm axle and didn't run smoothly for me so got a SHS 16:1 gear set, used the bevel & spur, some 9mm bearings (couldn't get 9mm bushings quickly) then moved some stuff around - put 9mm ceramics with 3mm axle for 16:1 spur then SHS 9mm 3mm bearings on the bevel ( I think ) so had a spare couple of the G&G 9mm ceramics with 5mm centre for the weird DSG axle I've got 9mm bushings now and one day may revisit my HC05 box and fit the Perun Optical in it nad finally get it firing 101% on semi etc... at long last But the thing is I would not put it back into the FireHawk in the end as such a short 128mm barrel means you lose fps on the DSG so would probably look to swap boxes from say a G&G FFR A2 with a 205-ish barrel (FFR A2 is/was an ETU that crapped out so is now old school trigger 13:1) and this reg G&G box with 13:1's for the FireHawk instead - basically straight swap of boxes but gain a bit of fps (hopefully) in the longer FFR A2 Similar thing to you fitting a longer barrel where you should see some gain/creep But for me I'd drop the box into a slightly longer CQB M4 and keep the titchy FH look (but to each their own as they say, yet it is a lot of fucking around regardless) The motor's in the FireHawk's is or was the Blue "Powerful Motor" ferrite but about 24,000rpm (sorta weaker version of Orange Ifrit) - but pulls the DSG out of box and fitted or WAS fitted to other FH's, CM18's and perhaps the 30th spec editions but not always fitted to all guns - even the FFR A2 has the lame 27tpa/18k grey in there - shocked Anyway the Blue motor isn't bad for a stock motor and can get say 18rps on 13:1 with the G&G Bluey motor (done right with a few teeth SS'd) on 7.4v maybe 16~17rps if needed a slightly bigger spring in a 128mm barrel but still have option for snappy 7.4v and/or 25~26rps on 11.1v (getting near the TopTech FireHawk performance) To be absolutely honest - the HC05 is still a pile of shit imho if G&G haven't sorted it out and got it to fire semi or fitted the Perun Optical then they are bigger idiots than ever you'd be better off getting a NORMAL FireHawk steel 8mm bushings, metal rack SHS piston, SHS DSG with a bevel+spur from 16:1 SHS (you should have the same motor anyway) at least you will have semi unlike the HC05 out of box well tbh I'd probably do the std FH as 13:1 than DSG and say a 200~250mm M4 like the FFR A2 or short Raider sleeper gun as DSG yeah the HC05 could be re-done with perhaps the Perun V2 Optical as best option But it is still a fucking wank if G&G are knocking the exact same shit CQB guns out Oh and DON'T use a High Speed motor like the BD-M160 stick with say a 25k to 30k SHS High Torque motor tops maybe 18tpa to say 22tpa if you are trying hit over 350fps on titchy barrel gun so need a slightly heavier spring yeah the HC05 is still a pita & one that people should read up on before buying (hence this post was originally more of a warning than a review)

I'm baffled how you haven't smashed the piston/gearset up on 11.1v tbh do you need full volume ??? if barrel is say 450mm then yeah if barrel is 400 - 1 tooth if barrel is 350 - 2~3 teeth if barrel is 300 - 3~4 teeth sorta thing - but really stick to 7.4v & twenties is plenty is the general reply

either way you'll need to crack it open... you say it fired 5 shots - how well or was it a struggle ??? if you was really unlucky the old spring could have snapped (or other stuff) causing it to now lock up gonna have to open her up, check, clean & re-grease stuff

box dried out, no grease & a tired stock motor perhaps with perhaps old tired nimah battery ???

Buy an ex-hire, aka "battle worn" aka used & abused (nigh on fucked) G36 hire gun ??? it's ya son's/kids gun - chances are he will ove it or nahhhh don't like it (so why go nutz on the budget tbh) fuck it - buy a new cheapy and go nutz doing your own paint job even I'd just go with the simple G36c than other variants - even the metal ris 608-7 (nah - adds a bit of weight up front) nah - just a basic cheapy G36c so Cyma or JG (JG's COL in SIG/G36 is a bit diferent to say SHS steel COL JG SIG/G36 COL is silver - SHS reg COL in black with area filed/sanded to show difference Selector plates are slightly different between Cyma & JG due to COL differences Cyma's use a reg v3 COL me thinks in their G36's) jusy saying as kids being kids, they'll probably love it or be a 5 min wonder

Not to mention fake jugs I mean when Lola Ferrari croaked that must been a cremation/coffin to remember (let alone lift) still a struggle to shut the lid I expect

fine no problem & about the same on a std gun if you want a bit of snap upgrade to dean connectors if you can solder or get a m8 to do it (cut ONE WIRE at a time or you will get a shock for sure - watch vids on this) capacity, burst C rating can effect ROF but in general a 7.4v comes off charge at 8.4v full capacity (cells are 3.7v but charged to max 4.2v, often say 8.35v-ish in total) so little difference - the 8.4v nimah might come off full charge at say a smidge over like 9v but is old stuff and doesn't pack same zest as LiPo does so in GENERAL a 7.4v LiPo is about same as a good 8.4v nimah the one supplied is very lame though just to test out a few shots really need about 3 x shit ones for a day and easy on spraying bb's or two good Vapex nimah's 1600mah - but most make jump to LiPo than buy 2 x Vapex's well that's not quite true.... most buy 2 x Vapex's say @ £15 each then wished they went LiPo instead to be fair

good points there fuck me - prommy buckings are quite bad too must be the Leslie Ash of bucking lips... think there is lesson here that applies to airsoft too just don't go too fucking nutz get some work/upgrades done

shove a bit of grease/oil in the rails of blue selector plate so that it glides back n forth smoothly not tons of it but a bit here n there these boxes are slapped together by 5 year olds bone dry no smoothing of burrs n shit, rough cast edges etc... so things like selector plates n stuff glide like a frozen wobbly shopping cart going over speed bumps in a gravel track - pretty fucking shit slapped together by kids doing piece work: get it in & whack it out sorta stuff for 50 cents (that'll be alright, in will run/wear itself in) no wonder we end up doing the finer finishing ourselves at times The 8mm bushings shouldn't foul the selector plate as such bushings tend to be a bit thicker inside than outside bearings though, can protrude a bit more and sometimes snag on selector plate just a tiny drop/smear of oil/grease should see plate glide smoothly then the selector switch should operate better without snagging/strain (be careful of oil/grease going into the electrical mosfet/sensor switch behind selector plate) no need to dismantle shit, just a smear worked into runners, glide back n forth & it should work itself in no problem these cheap guns are hardly finished at all and cheap Cyma cm.028a - jeez them gearboxes have razor sharp edges (could feel my fingers getting shaved & sliced on one of those fuckers) so often these high precision bit of engineering (sarcasm) need the odd bit of smoothing & a bit of grease as the blue Smurf jizz was just splurged in there at random it seems on them gears/bushings try the tape in magwell - might help/assist with some feed issues sometimes people put tape either side of magwell's long edge to reduce mag wobble other times certain mags, some midcaps can be a bitch to feed and others have felt taped the back shoving mag/hop forward to assist feeding or nozzle clearance (and it don't work you can remove it - no biggy)

WAIT WAIT WAIT a second... Double feeding so order new bushings ??? First things first - gearbox = pisspot zinc alloy bushings = steel (sorta) which material do you think has worn loose ??? (I suspect new bushings may still be a little loose plus different bushings/bearings will throw shimming out and all of this is likely to be unrelated to feed issues really) Poundland - £1 purchase of 2-part expoxy glue bushings in by a LIGHT smear around edges of box - refit & allow to set Double feed or misfeeding ??? without going into detail too much... assuming bb's slip through bucking/hop unit into barrel etc... (and tappet/nozzle is cycling correctly to feed/chamber bb etc...) is the mag a little loose in gun ??? can you put a bit of cloth (some use velcro - felt part of it, tape) place a bit of cloth/tape at BACK of magwell, effectively between gearbox & mag in well this will very slightly shift the hop forward as the mag is inserted (very very slightly shifting the mag/hop forward from box which will create a whisper more room in doing so there will be a slight increase in available room in front of nozzle that should assist in feeding there is a slight chance that fps "might" lessen slightly but test if it helps with feed issue first) Realistically - wind the hop off, see if gun feeds 101% if it feeds OK with hop off then things look OK what "might" be happening is bucking is greasey so not applying grippy pressure to backspin/lift bb so you wind on more pressure and create jams etc... (often diagnosed as misfeeds - nope it's a jam) is the hop working ??? you don't need to see nub forming a solar eclipse as you look down hop/barrel it just needs a very slight bump to create backspin the barrel is 6.03~6.05mm with a 5.95mm bb, you can't have it looking like a stopcock/valve half open tilt gun on its side 90 degrees & fire to see bb's curving right/left = hop sorta working but if you keep winding it on you'll get a jam in the end The v2 gearbox is cunt for nozzle/tappet tolerances the tappet fin could be worn - but I kinda doubt it (plus the cyma tappet is a bespoke bastid) is the box properly all bolted back into place, with box in position (be careful tightening the stock tube up really tight, especially in metal receivers - yeah its plastic) but if stuff is slightly out of whack, nozzle can rub on hop impeding its operating (feed/chamber issues) as said previously - try shit in other gun test other mags - use good bb's, swap out barrel/hop combo first basically try a process of elimination/trial n error before steaming in & buying new bushings (which still might be a bit loose if cheap box allows present bushings to fall out) the tape velcro thingy might assist if shifting the hop forward very slightly and allow a smidge more room/clearance for bb to slip past the nozzle at full retraction the cyma sector will not allow you to fit a normal delayer, so that suggestion is not really an option stuff like filing down the nozzle is NOT ADVISED as you will likely lose fps from shortening nozzle (the velcro/tape at back of magwell will slightly do the same effect but without fucking shit as you can always remove velcro/cloth tape - but can't put back material you filed off nozzle) it is too easy to steam in and think it must be this - often it isn't and doubt if bushings will resolve the issue - well not as I can see in your pic, the sector cam was just behind the tappet fin so it needs to be slightly in front of fin when reassembling or box won't close also - might worth rotating tappet spring 180 so the loop is closer to tappet underside/hook than at the bottom like in your pic - but depends on tappet spring as some have "loops" formed differently than others. Some say it don't matter which way it is fitted but on reg trolley switches the loop on the "hook" goes close to tappet underside to keep the tappet spring closer to tappet in operation etc... (probably won't make a difference but wondering if spring was fitted that way round) close of Cyma from TWG... looks like your tappet spring might have been fitted the other way around (might make next to no difference, but the loop is tighter to tappet underside (usually) than leaning towards bottom of hook) Most of this is my OCD kicking in - I'd try say the tape in magwell first before ripping box open, swapping tappet spring around and removing stuff to glue bushings etc... if box was assembled OK then it "should" just work looks std with no massive amount of wear anywhere so it "should" work, not as if fucked components or new nozzle too long fitted so again "should" just work as intended without going nutz some guns/mags like the tape in magwell to reduce wobble and help feeding it is another kinda bodge/workaround on M4 style guns/mags with sprung/floaty hop units but providing other hop/bucking/feed/jam issues aren't involved (hence swap/try the other hop/barrel combo in there from other gun too) don't go stripping down a hop/barrel combo that works OK - just the complete unit try out to diagnose what the main issue might be why the sod don't wanna feed too good ps - be carefull with the two black wires getting close to that little hole that is the where that little pin goes through and if wires are not routed carefully it is easy to nick/puncture them with the receiver pin - I've done it (so you learn by our mistakes certain things to take note of next time & stuff to watch out for) yup - people think v2's are pretty straight forward - well they are but there are a few things to note and stuff like routing of wires - well basically everything I guess needs a little attention to detail you probably was OK, but just looked a tiny bit close to the pin hole and like I said I've punctured them wire(s) in the past not checking/routing stuff carefully pps - shims on sector gear go in front of tappet not underneath but sure you refiited it all correctly - with shims on top of sector gear & tappet fin

PLOT TWIST... Biden now identifies as a female and so is the FIRST FEMALE PRESIDENT Kamala will not become the first female President wrecked by their own TERF logic bollox world has gone completely nutz in other subjects - people just create content for clicks

I think that is Biden's new Health Secretary some bloke calling himself/herself/ ergh IT cals itself " RACHEL " Levine

more newer 11.1v LiPo's ??? Then you can use the new 11.1v to charge the older/flat 11.1v's (yes I'm being sarcastic) Think look to buy 1 or 2 newer LiPo's that should last a little longer and not the Titans either - yeah you could use 18650's but really the high end 18650's aren't ultra cheap and still not quite punchy as LiPo's or a 4 cell mofo to charge a B6 charger might work... https://hobbyking.com/en_us/rhino-1800mah-4s-50c-lipo-battery-pack-w-xt60.html?queryID=&objectID=80875&indexName=hbk_live_magento_en_us_products haven't got friggin' clue how long that thing would power the B6 for though 4 x cells at max 4.2v = 16.8v until say 3.2v = 12.8v, within range of battery chargers 11~18v input other than that sorta thing you are going to be looking at more expense the higher the capacity and then you are transferring the power & losing efficiency in the transfer just to top up a punchy 11.1v in theory you are going to be lucky topping up one 11.1v with a 14.8v (or 12.6v with 16.8v) New battery/batteries, get gun(s) running efficiently (less amp draw = less drain) would perhaps be best option to avoid going through lots of older batteries on high draw guns LTO battery technology, strap ya guns to your Nissan Leaf (or Tesla if ya loaded) then hope you got enough juice to get ya home What are your batteries - how many are you using or going through how nutz are you spamming & what is the gun(s) draw in amps if you are using Higher Speed motors on std gears than 13:1 on torque motors - your amps will be greater on HS 18:1 than 25k 13:1, yet rof will be similar, though battery will drain quicker on HS motor

"POSITIVE VIBES ONLY ???" OK - that team didn't lose or got its arse handed to them NOPE - they came SECOND (in a two team game FFS) in fact my motto - poke shit at yourself before anybody else does if you have hurty feelings, or too fragile stay in your safe space/safe zone

if you are going to use it a lot say for CQB... then try to check for entended mag option...

Think Mustang is British Skara is Italian - perhaps so sceptical if he is Kicking Mustang maybe Rocky Balboa the Italian Stallion... AAADRRIIIAAAAAAAAAANNNNNNNNN

Sound advice given already Congrats on promotion Well done on getting bonus & recognition & sounds like you got a level headed missus too as been mentioned, one thing we've all found out, shiney shit means nowt if you can't get out & play with it/show it off etc... this lockdown has demonstrated just how materialistic crap is in our life at times so no need to let that dosh burn a hole in ya pocket - just yet ya got guns that work, you got a job with a promotion and you gotta a woman who understands/accepts (of a sort) she married a big kid plenty to be pleased about without blowing the dosh just yet congrats again sir

'ere here is an odd thing for you to try... in your browser bar, type in yourself than me post a link you think is embedded www . antifa . com (removes spaces, but type it yourself) type in antifa.com and see where it takes you