Sitting Duck

Actually that is how you THINK it works... But in fact Whitehall try to influence the politicians They (Senior Civil Servants @ Whitehall) don't care who wins the GE not really, Whitehall simply gets new puppets to play with & pull the strings You might think this is bit far fetched, but suggest you watch some episodes of "Yes Minister" which many retired servants & politicians have said it was pretty accurate of how it all works

I think the suspension of sales at TWG is to do with VAT/WTO as well as shipment delays at ports (potential tariffs/duty/VAT issues) Once clarification takes place EU deal/no deal (so called Sunday showdown) (what another final last chance date AGAIN) Things will start to settle down personally I think there will be an ARRANGEMENT than an agreement as such (like NI, loose (very loose 3~6 month) arrangement for internal markets bill) Anything ordered after 17th you won't get for Chrimbo and even then not deffo by New Year with Holidays etc.... 11th January is a bit OTT to resume orders, but there could be clarification req depending on WTO/VAT arrangements to third countries outside EU Which need to official clarification from Polish/EU officials about tax/VAT (depending on UK/EU position on 1st Jan) So as government/official offices won't be back on 2nd Jan but say a week later then official clarification on VAT & Customs on BOTH sides etc... TWG have issued a statement for Monday 11th than Monday 4th Could be clarified sooner, could be storm in a teacup, very little could change (depends on what is actually decided) Told ya in another thread get ya orders in early December and if ya missed out on 10%/15%| BF discount then looks like you will have to wait it out Could suggest that TWG are pushing for any sales asap, give fence sitters a kick up arse but hmmm really think it is about VAT/WTO issue & paperwork for shipping/customs etc...

I was actually referring to the gun itself, receiver stock etc... Heard hop was a bit bespoke too But it just seems to be that brittle plastic, on a cold morning would crack if something dropped out Congrats on your upgrading of it though Certain "different" or less common guns sure make a nice change from reg AK's & M4's etc... I was saying to the poor bloke with the tucked up Classic Army/APS pile of Pooh Yes them new M904G's are nice bang for your buck But reckon by next year when things start to return to normal EVERYBODY will have one (figure of speech) and they will be as common as G&G Combat Machines I reckon But yeah, the 904 is going to make other makes up their game a bit more (which is all good for us I guess if we have the cash to splash) Ergh soz for derailing this thread a bit... Last week bought 2 x M904G's myself and a CM.517 for fucking about with for cheap lols

There ya go then - you have your very own Liza I have the Umarex ARX160 Sportsline - weird thing Press bolt catch release - mag drops out Press another button barrel hop releases Bit confusing about a couple of them release buttons Think it is a V3 in there of some description (kinda like the APS UAR, taking M4 ish mags) QC V3 like UAR - it was just one of COD guns Duck Jnr liked So bought it but never used it, brittle plastic etc... Can't afford to, some of the parts are very very bespoke If it busts you are basically fucked getting bits

BLIMEY - looks like an AK shagged a shorty shotgun Producing a bastid love-child that an M4 is supporting (Hence the M4 mags) Nice find at bargain price sir If you think of giving her a name - Liza after Liza Minnelli (She didn't inherit her mum Judy Garland's looks But her fugly director dad's looks instead) I'm sure there are other examples of fugly offspring But Liza Minnelli is just one example of inheriting fugliness Nice touch, guess Black Friday came early for you plus some bargain bespoke bits too will come in handy Best of luck with a few tweaks & all that sir

Gear ratio might depend if box is reinforced requiring mod for 13:1's like some King Arms, Cyma's even M904G (not all cyma v2's, the new QC Cyma v2's, the 7mm mp5's not reinforced) Not a biggy mod if required for 13:1's But something to consider when planning If box is strong enough - just drop DSG in & run a torque 28tpa with 150/160 spring option ??? Guess it depends what motor you end up getting Lonex A1 then maybe keep stock gears SHS or 25k or 22 TPA maybe 13:1's Old crappy 27 tpa motor, strip & chuck in neodym can & DSG ??? But like everything, where do ya start & where do ya stop I guess

Did you use the G&G "DMR" type selector plate or mod the KWA selector plate for semi only ??? If you used the G&G selector plate, the "arch" might be in a very very slightly different position hence in rare occasions a new/different selector plate can throw out the semi/auto setting & even the safety too... I had that once, think it was a Cyma selector I broke on my first CM.515 the replacement was lovely - except for safety not quite working what it was the slide by switch was a little different and it was only raising the safety arm halfway & not lining up with trigger safety lug, slipping just under it & allowing trigger pull So the new plate was cut different to Cyma, but they have copper clip on selector... So I added a small strip of solder to the copper plate by safety arm enough to fully raise safety arm & stop trigger being pulled Comparing the 2 selector plates on top of each other - the "arch" is basically cut about 1.5mm different place so the "tab" was never going to raise the safety properly miracle the fire semi/auto worked OK - guess the arch & COL area was within tolerance but it was safety that was real problem for compatibility So if you used the pre-modded semi only G&G ETU selector plate, the safety tab end might be different thus not raising the safety arm 101% use the KWA plate & mod the COL area like DMR stripped screw, larger screw or thread lock/spec of glue/epoxy to re-thread/bind it I ALWAYS or nearly always place the small threads - even the M3 gearbox bolts place them in, then turn COUNTER CLOCKWISE until you feel the screw rise up & "bump" THEN tighten up screw, as the screw has located & aligned itself 101% with thread Been modding consoles & other shit for ages and found if you just slap screws in you tend to re-cut the threads of the plastic cases if take them apart more than a couple of times so much so they weaken and soon strip The unscrew to locate, "bump" & tighten method really reduces the risk of cheap shitty threads stripping when I see people just chucking in gearbox screws & tightening straight away - with electric driver too I think rather you than me type of thing, coz I found the back & bump method to locate the thread really works to ensure the tiny screw/bolt properly finds the fine thread, than risk trying recut/widen it in my defence I took an OCD online test & scored 101%, I got 100% of course but I noticed the result page was off-centre - autistic screeching goes into overdrive (pretty sure there was a typo too but was yonks ago - it was page not aligned that really freaked me out) joking aside, we all have a bit of OCD & though we mock it at times... Michael J Fox in Scrubs played an amazing brief role as top doctor/surgeon Kevin Casey with OCD who was so good at everything he starts pissing everybody off I can relate to that - not being amazingly good, fuck no but pissing everybody off bit - yup that's my speciality (ask Mrs Duck) I'M NOT THAT BAD, only coz now I don't look quite so closely at things

Thought paypal "fees" were about 3.5% to 4% or was when I bought/sold a bit as said if you have the funds in your paypal account there is no fee to pay to send money etc... but if you are buying something on paypal on the plastic linked to account with no balance then yeah fees come into play... I usually offered to front the full 3.5% fee if buying - especially if I really wanted item at good price (fuck me - buy shit from GunFire, those bastids charge you for paypal, where TWG don't) obviously if money is tight, seller won't accept any "reasonable" offer (not insulting take the piss offer) then yeah bollox maybe keep the fucking gun, if we can't mediate a little And then there is people on both sides who think they can charge £20 for a 1st class stamp or feel a bulky item only costs a few quid fully insured to ship (it isn't always about the weight - but also size of parcel) postage could be between £10~£15 on AEG's depending on service/insurance/shipping options etc... All that being said - I fucking hate haggling with the "lookey lookey men" on holiday etc... I have a price in mind say €10 & when he says best price €20, when I know it is €5 on AliExpress I'm off down the road already - fuck off we are poles apart m8 & I ain't wasting my time haggling crap so no I can negotiate a little but fuck hard bargaining & haggling shit all day long... gender bollox - Monty Python was way ahead predicting all this in Life of Brian I wonder if they thought the funny weird shit back then 1979 (41 years ago) could one day risk becoming the new norm today - wtf ???

HEY none of that gender stereotyping here No longer MAN SIZE - so they are now called EXTRA LARGE to avoid offending extreme feminists, soy latte confused non binary types etc... https://metro.co.uk/2018/10/18/mansize-tissues-scrapped-by-kleenex-because-theyre-sexist-8050464/ (fucks sake, can even say to these weirdo's MAN UP coz that will offend them too)

How's that advanced SLE dooberry in ya gun.... http://kwa.com.hk/kwa_home/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/Ronin_Motor_Current-1.jpg SWITCH LIFE EXTENDER (SLE) THE NEW GENERATION: AEG 2.5 Get more pew pew out of your new KWA AEG 2.5 with the new Switch Life Extender, included on all new gen AEGs. The SLE will extend the life of your trigger contacts by almost 500% by absorbing 99.9% of the back current/power surge that cause their shuttle contacts to burn out. Unlike other electrical aftermarket add-ons, the SLE doesn’t rely on complicated circuit boards or cause erratic trigger behavior. Combined with numerous internal upgrades like the adjustable fps, the new gen of KWA AEGs is the new standard Yeah - I think it is a basic flyback diode or RC snubber circuit (Resistor & Capacitor - hence RC snubber, nowt to do with RC toy cars) Bit like ICS was banging on about yonks ago to reduce arcing at trigger a 20p diode but call it KWA's new SLE system - still at least it works minor trade off: diodes nick a bit of juice - forward voltage drop to turn on so they tend to nick 0.5v~0.7v to turn on BUT with all the circuitry in them fancy mosfets with bells & whistles they too are nicking a bit of juice too... yup some diode or RC snubber bollox... good ol' Pheas, though snubber/flyback not anti shorting system FFS chaps it is a flyback diode most likely - not some fancy rocket science engineering (could be RC but I'd say a straight up diode) Adjustable fps - JG was using some crude but similar in their G36's & SIG's basically it is a metal spring guide - with a fine grub screw that pushed the outer sleeve of spring guide up probably about 5mm travel, almost 2 extra teeth compression, meaning about 30fps tweak-able wasn't a spring guide, though it did rotate slightly between two halves so allowed for "some" slight spring twist very crude but effective option to slightly tweak final spring power/fps If the JG box had a hole in the rear of it, at the two halves, then chances are it had a tweak-able spring guide in there On the G36 - good idea as box is enclosed at back when folding stock On the SIG - not bad, but as box is more exposed - wtf didn't you fit a QC box in there JG ??? (it is crying out all ready for it on the SIG - jeez) There was other companies that brought out tweak-able spring guides but probably didn't catch on due to a bit of fiddling/modding to get easy access to tweak the spring guide and like the SIG if you got really easy access then QC box would be better maybe (and I guess with a little mod the G36 could be opened slightly to allow a QC v3 box perhaps) Some clever stuff out there, some very fancy stuff & clever engineering driving things forward

Measure, find something near it or a smidge over (Often you can file a whisker off) Or look at one them flash bastid MAXX adjustable nozzles Though your nozzle could - COULD be 17mm... https://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/43-longrange-aegs/58745-svd-nozzle-length.html#/topics/58745

It isn't cunning nor cheating... it is SNIDEY imho But if half a dozen players, not one is tracking you ADS and perhaps firing a few shots your way at range then allow you continue to close in without challenging you well ultimately they deserve it to some degree though do not be surprised if next round that player is still shot as he walks to respawn I'M DEAD, GOT MY HAND UP - I SAID DEAD MAN WALKING FSS Oh sorry m8, didn't see ya hand and I got these ear defenders on YEAH - you can see this shit getting out of hand if you're not careful But honestly, nobody tracked or challenged the guy ??? I know sometimes we drop the arm, but but tend to announce Dead Man Walking say every 30 secs

Feed problems - bet it is nozzle retraction or part of the issue Add delayer - but the CORRECT TYPE there is a smidge of extra material that just fits over the sector's tappet cam thus pulling the tappet back a whisker extra more other delay clips are just shit by comparison... if you only have a 5.5mm gap in front of the nozzle it will struggle to fee a 5.95mm BB (no matter how long the tappet/nozzle is held back for Some mags have a stronger spring and will attempt to force it through with enough force but won't last 7 maybe why it only feeds 10 BB's if you are lucky I've covered this before... But the tappet/nozzle window on V2's is 1mm smaller than on V3's so you really have to ensure the nozzle length is correct 21.38mm or a SHS Red should do @ 21.40mm if you use a delayer (or make your own with a sleeve over cam) SHS v2 tappets also retract a whisker more than most others But check for bottoming out on cylinder head in top half of box blah blah blah - said it loads of times you can even go nutz on a red cylinder head... see that ridge at the bottom, file it away (carefully after removing o-rings) then mark cylinder and file a whisker of the cylinder itself - say 5 o'clock to 7 o'clock clean up & reassemble... Now you have an extra 0.5mm to 0.75mm extra retraction space on tappet plate Again - check tappet plate bottoming out on cylinder head at full retraction you can gain nearly 1mm more nozzle retraction BUT pay attention as the sector rotates in top half of box as it goes to draw back the tappet fin just before it engages the fin you may feel some resistance... this is a large delayer or sleeve hitting the underside of tappet plate - JUST BEFORE it engages the fin It is a really tiny area of contact, so on the area just in front of the fin, you may need to lightly file away some material - not a lot a real fine shave an area right in front of fin to say 5mm in front, only needing to file off say 0.25m to 0.5mm in most cases All the checking should be done in the TOP HALF of the box the lower half just wobbles way too much so this checking of tappet retraction MUST be done in top half (which is handy coz all the wiring & shims & crap stays in lower half) so it is a pretty easy thing to check the sector delay tappet cylinder etc.. - all retracting as much as possible without it bottoming out on cylinder head or bumping underneath the tappet plate itself V2's are a wank, not all V2's need the tappet plate filed underneath, but if going nutz for max retraction then it is quite common if taking the piss on tappet retraction V3's seem to be more forgiving and retract more by default than v2's **** SLIGHT WARNING **** If you have a v2 and are REALLY taking the piss, filing cylinder head & cylinder massive sleeve to REALLY retract tappet, requiring the underside of tappet shaved ON A CONVENTIONAL TRIGGER/TROLLEY SWITCH - one thing to watch out for if taking the piss At FULL TRIGGER PULL, ramming the trolley home, the extra tappet retraction could damage the tiny nipple/lug on top of trolley where the trolley spring sits it is supposed to just miss by that groove in the tappet plate underside Sooooooo - if you are REALLY taking the piss on tappet retraction you need to extend that trolley channel or groove on the underside to avoid the trolley spring lug hitting the end of the groove and breaking that nipple clean off (painful), but I had it happen once & so the channel gets modded/extended to prevent this It is something that will only happen on CONVENTIONAL TRIGGER if TAKING THE PISS now on the ARP9 think that is ETU so no trolley to tear off so no need to worry about extending the trolley channel on the underside of tappet plate ANYWAY - TL-DR crap as per usual... you need to ensure the nozzle length is correct, maybe sand the front to help seal a smidge (doesn't help feeding at all) then try to go for max possible tappet retraction - the delay DURATION matters little if retraction is small/worn add delayer/sleeve, check for contact/wear/rubbing blah blah blah to the power of 10 etc... Hopefully you end up with an extra 0.5mm to 1mm extra retraction that will assist feeding even on the shittiest of mags at a moderate snappy rate if you still got feeding issues then the nozzle is too long, hop rubber bucking lips too tight or the mags are really fucked (no spring tension at all) But you would have the ability to deduce or work out the main cause by power of elimination But tappet retraction or nozzle space to feed a bb won't be an issue any more you look into some of this crap and I assure you, your gun will feed better on almost mag it is them poxy v2's, the tolerance on tappet window is quite fine, bit of wear on fin not a great amount of retraction to begin with and you get feed issues on some mags Some mags might just shift the hop unit slightly forward say 0.4mm and feed like a dream of course you could shove a thin o-ring or something in front of hop between box/hop pushing the hop forward and it should feed better - but gain a slight blowing at lips so fps drops a bit - but should feed better, shifting hop forward nearly half a mil mega TL-DR - just check tappet retraction in top half of box & look to improve with clip/sleeve etc...

iz fine coz it was a 2 tone (black/white) & waz an imitation firearm (wazn't a very realistic imitation firearm az ya can see)

***** SOLD ***** Gun 4 sale works (i fink) PM me

Congrats - I know you was after one, bit rare like hens teeth they are (especially the stubby ones) Not all of them come with the fixed stock ring... some do - quite a few don't, easy to grab a cheap plastic M4 stock ring and chop it up (can hack a metal stock ring up but a lot more work) but think you needed the back mostly for the opening door on ICS so no biggy, but you got the back you wanted and the option of stubby or full stock now (if I'm correct it was for the ICS M4 & don't need the fixed stock ring on ICS I think) Bolt lengths are a little different - shorter bolt on ICS coz of stock tube thingy than into spring guide so the full size fixed stock m5 bolt may be about 20mm to 1 inch or 25.4mm too long Guess you could shove the full stock with closed back on a M4/SR25 DMR setup if you wanted (or keep it as spare as it took so long to find something) But yeah fixed stocks, seemed to have fizzled out & a little tricky to source for a couple of years well done anyway

it "sounds" like it "could" be the grip pulling the motor/box out of whack bit like some M4 pistol grips being too large - works with box+grip testing but when you fit them into receiver the larger grip hits the receiver 1mm or 2mm so a gap appears between box & grip, when tightened it starts fighting/pulling it out of whack sorta this crap... https://youtu.be/WSV8vn9veXs and seen Luke (I think) add shims between grip & box to take pad out the area so grip just mates with box without hitting the receiver so hard that it pulls shit out of whack when tightened... (not as proper fix I'll add but when he was getting screechy shit issues on say troublesome VFC's for example and just trying to diagnose or try to diagnose where it all goes out of whack) Now in your case the top of the AK grip(s) have lugs to locate into receiver so filing stuff down would be a PITA working around those lugs etc... and no real need to perhaps... You could try to plop in say m4 washer - 4mm ID & say 6~8mm OD between grip & motor cage to take up any potential slack, so grip isn't being forced into receiver so much it knocks out the alignment This washer could be 1mm or 1.5mm thick of metal or maybe rubber heck an old THIN cylinder head pad could be worth a try, might need trimming down at edges probably 1mm thick should do it, pad out the space between inside of grip & bottom of motor cage Tighten up and should/could do the trick - worth a go I reckon Also check motor cage is not loose, sometimes they don't fit perfectly and others there is a bit of potential play, even wobble when tightened and despite the cage snug & angle correct, the wonky/gappy grip can try to pull the cage a bit out of sync So a bit of a rubber washer might take up the slack between grip/cage so it can tighten without it going squiffy

Mrs Duck chatting to her friend...

I fell off the chair at this one...

I'm not gonna let this mandatory mask crap ruin my summer...

OK maybe naked airsoft could be a bit horrific on the eyes for most chubby cheaters... not calling your hits - shorts & no shirt for next round or leave the site (lady cheaters - you can sit the next game out in the buff)

it is about right imho... 350fps max on 0.20 or whatever the 1.14j bollox coupled with a mature attitude of not lighting people up at point blank range 350fps, many are say 328fps on a rough average overall (300~349.9999) if below 300 then I'd think about giving it the once over at aiming for Mall's 340 limit On the field at mid range the power/impact drops considerably sure there was a vid showing a 450 sniper, with a chrono say 30~40m away showing how the fps dropped So on that note if you get hit by a few bb's it will lightly sting a bit x a few bb's so it is part of the sport if you get a few hits - though overkill is a cunt On cqb the single shot rule should apply & normally the body is the largest target so "should" be within the pain threshold unless you are a real wimp (the really bitch is getting shot in the back with a tight top on - that can sting at times (but man up ffs, or play Nerf/Fortnight) Also it is about not having a wanker hose machine & some respect for people you are shooting eg: a gun at around 20rps, even if you are still on auto (should be on semi if shooting cqb) should be able to control any real crazy overkill - though if play is still at mid range & you are rushed/flanked then you could be taken by surprise and shoot at a guy close range on auto/3 rnd burst etc.... hopefully an experienced player will not panic and hold trigger to light up the flanker BUT at times shit happens to all of us and welts happen - it is just the stuff airsoft is know for think the limit is about right, providing wankers don't hose others at close range it isn't the gun's fault or the limits - but the twat holding the gun imho if twats don't call their hits - I didn't feel it they keep saying... Right you have a choice - leave or next round you are playing naked (pretty sure you will be calling your hits then)