Sitting Duck

Auto say 3~5 sec burst takes a second or two to stabilise an "average" draw... it initially starts off at 80a from still, then lowers to say 5a on piston release (no load at all) then as it picks up piston, spring tension load increases to say 40a then releases 5a etc... after a few seconds the meter calculates an "average" draw rate as it cycles again again (about 11a - maybe a little less as a m95/100 with good compression on 455mm barrel = 350fps in other words, if good seals, on a 455mm AK the spring will be a m95 say so less like 10a) It is hard to accurately quantify the draw as a high speed motor really ramps up the amp draw ferrite motors suffer stalling on higher springs than neodym etc... so "load" on motor varies shitloads depending on build - which is basically what you are checking (The amp draw on/from the motor itself) You can lightly tweak the motor height if it sounds a bit rough and together with the amp draw and your ears detecting the less shrilly whiney sound... you can fine tune the motor's height/position to best sound/amp draw etc... as said if worried do it on 7.4v than on 11.1v note the amps 8.4v x 10a = 84 Watts (7.4v LiPo fully charged) 12.6v x 10a = 126 Watts (11.1v fully charged) as each 3.7v can hold a max 4.2v amps stay same, but Wattage changes due to different voltage like I said Wattage is not what we are looking for, you are checking the Amps (but the mosfet might have a max Wattage in its spec, though you'll be fine) Just a few seconds on Auto - note the amps should be around 11a give or take 1a (personally think it should 10a or less, but old motor, carbon build up increases resistance & less efficiency etc...) a nicely tweaked gun should be 15a to 17a (using a 25k~30k neodym motor 13:1 etc...) BUT REALLY DEPENDS ON MOTOR/BUILD ITSELF The higher the amps, the quicker the battery drains and also usually more amps = more heat generated at motor so it is wise to try to keep amps low or lower if possible if gun was built correctly doubt if you got high amp draw above 15a like a tweaked gun but the amp draw will tell you a lot & what fuse to use (as said a 30a mini will be plenty unless draw is high or you have a short at motor cage)

Blade automotive type fuses are quite common... There is the regular type which has aprox 4.3~4.5mm connectors & There is the mini/micro type fuse which has 2.8~3mm connectors like on motor (the highest the mini/micro rating is about 30amp max afaik the larger regular fuses go up much higher) stock guns usually come with 20a or 25a as standard and 30amp micro fuse "should" be OK for most moderately tweaked guns pic of regular blade fuse install with mosfet... Now if you use a mini fuse installed in a similar way it will take up less room... the purple "mini" fuse goes up to 30a max, not all places stock 30a mini but they exist up to 30a without needing to go to larger size fuses with larger connectors (basically just need to keep same 2.8mm motor connectors to hand for mini fuses) When you first pull the trigger from stationary - there is a MASSIVE SURGE of say 80 amps for a very brief (milliseconds) moment every time you fire say on semi or start of burst Then the current draw settles down a bit and you get an "average draw" of say 11a to 15a on auto Grab a test meter... something like these - say £7:50 - ish plug it in between gun & battery... fire on auto for say 3~5 secs (if worried - do it say 7.4v) read off the amperage on auto burst effectively DOUBLE that reading at least - so really a 30a fuse will suffice most instances You should check the current/amp/wattage draw on your gun - it tells you a lot... if in stock build you are much over say 12 amp your shimming/motor height is shit on a 350fps gun I said STOCK BUILD - with a lame 24~27tpa ferrite motor pulling a m100 spring on 18:1 etc... If you you use a HIGH SPEED motor then expect the amps to rise to 20a+ (yeah HS motors are not that great & this high amp/current draw will drain your battery quickly) School science crap - AMPS x VOLTS = WATTS, - it is all relevent but amps is a good thing to monitor The AMPS will generally stay the same - or there abouts on 7.4v or 11.1v, in same gun just the watts increase from higher volts being used (is same gun I mean) Wattage does matter to say the spec of the Mosfet & stuff but we generally focus on amps TL-DR crap buy a power meter thingy, test to see what your AMP DRAW is on auto if it is higher than 12a on a basic std build then that is a bit high imho this higher amp draw is what blows the fuses (rated in amps of course) so check to ensure your gun isn't badly assembled/shimmed & drawing more amps than is should if done correctly I'd say the CM.028a on say a m100 max spring, 27 tpa cyma motor etc... will draw 10a (I'd still just shove in a 30a mini micro fuse) Polyfuses require careful planning & anything a little more "electronic" from fleabay can be a gamble You buy cheap 3034 mosfets from fleabay & is quite likely they are snide mosfets and snide 3034 will not handle the whopping current draw, nor will they have same internal spike protection (basically a cheap 1404 type mosfet only capable of handling half the current & will go tits up with voltage spikes) You bought polyfuse, I'd bet nowhere near the so called advertised spec (like buying a mobile phone battery or power bank from ebay/China - will only have half the so called capacity) Your fuses might have been rated at XX amps or a load of XXX watts but in real tests I'd lay it is perhaps more near half of the advertised load capacity Naaaahhhhhh - just go with a mini auto blade fuse & be done with it though the AK stock you use the regular one, heck even buy a fuse holder (just if space is tight, create your own with 2.8mm connectors installed on its side so to speak)

That is also exact thoughts on LiFe's too, they seem to add a little bit more zest in a std stock gun. But once you tweak a gun on 13:1, 30k say - nothing too insane... When you do that the extra oomph from the 9.9v LiFe seems to vanish. I know some run LiFe's in their guns - mostly stock or only very mild tweaks, But when I tried a couple of LiFe's in some snappy guns I noticed no real difference over a 7.4v 25c and it seems something similar is taking place in regards to Titan batteries. If running a DMR on say m130, 22tpa, maybe stock or 16:1's I'd be inclined to just run on 11.1v 25c with a decent capacity, than a Titan perhaps... but to each their own as they say, just don't think other stuff can match the brute raw grunt from a decent LiPo for when the build demands a bit more zest

Titan batteries are just tarted up 18650's at a premium price They might be good 18650's (the specs vary loads) but even the high end 18650's do not outperform a decent similar spec LiPo One of the best 18650's are the Molicel P26a... https://www.fogstar.co.uk/products/molicel-p26a or https://18650.uk/product/molicel-inr18650-p26a-18650-battery/ But even these bad boys might not offer quite as much grunt as say a 30c LiPo I was sceptical of the hype surrounding these new Titan batteries (I'm not a big fan of LiFe batteries either) But a recent geeky bench test shows maybe these Titan's & others are not all they are cracked up to be https://www.airsoftsociety.com/threads/objective-battery-test-titan-lion-vs-kypom-lipo-vs-hv-lipo.161379/ I personally would read up a bit and perhaps consider all options like a decent high capacity, 30c or 40c LiPo (I mean true 30c or 40c not the 20~40c crap on label, but specific 40c rating) Up to you, but I have my reservations back then & even more doubts now

is why bushings in gearboxes & metal rack on pistons are epoxy'd in pop into poundland, buy a cheap £1 syringey 2-part epoxy (wipe sides of box/bushings clean) squeeze out same amount 2 moderate size blobs mix with matchstick and smear a small amount on the inner rim of case push them in and leave to set for a few hours wipe off any excess & you should be able to set all 6 in one sitting if you move briskly (the epoxy tends to set within 5 mins) sorted not watched vid - got guests over but this cheap shit will do the job for a quid JB Weld is for more robust jobs, but just getting stuff to stay put well I use this quite often for bushings & piston racks (plus other stuff)

Yes bearings are quieter - than dry bushings when shimming/spinning "dry" bushings you can get a squeak as you spin (drop a bit of oil/silicone on them to shut them up whilst testing) Once shimmed up - you coat them to bits and slap it all together bearings spin a bit longer on bearings - but any minor drag difference is nothing (compared to strain from spring etc... when in actual use) What some people do in some/certain cases is do a mix of bushings/bearings the most important point is a bushing UNDER THE SPUR as this seems to be a stress point where energy from bevel's 10 teeth to SPUR to sector - right in the middle the strain increases under spur G&G bronze bushings for example wear extremely quick - rool smooth but wear out fucking quick this is known point for G&G bushings to wear to excess and once this becomes great, excessive play will lead to failure at some point... Other bushings will wear - maybe the bevel, sector seems to be quite long lasting (sector rotates the very least of all gears, even though the spring's tension is exterted upon it) It is UNDER THE SPUR that you should or highly recommended to run on bushings even hard as nails super duper ceramic's can fail under the spur gear... I recommend a bushing under the spur on top of spur - you can run a bearing, particularly if shimming room is tight (I've had this on a very chunky 13:1 set, too tight on all bushing spur, but just got away with bearing on top What you do to the other 2 x gears is up to you... Now remember that bearings under the spur & sector can/could impede slightly on the selector plate (on some large chunky bearings with some selector plates - others no issue) So for that reason... Bushing UNDER SPUR & Bushing UNDER SECTOR (as bushings tend to be less raised externally than bearings - but are raised internally more so less shims inside as a general rule on bushings (or slightly more if using bearings) So Bushings under spur & sector (a rough guide is say 0.2mm shim under spur & say 0.25mm under sector) I personally would use a bushing ON TOP of bevel as the pinion is trying to throw the bevel into bushing (me personally a bearing can be trashed if you drive the pinion/bevel heavily into the gearbox casing) As the bevel spins 4.25 ~ 6.25 times to one revolution of sector gear... I have used a bearing UNDER bevel if I was unhappy with sqeaky/tight/loose bushing under bevel (place bushing/bearing onto gear axle and wiggle/check for excessive play) some axles are 2.95mm & others just a whisker over 3mm & certain bearings/bushings may be worn or made to shit tolerances so don't fit sloppy bearings/bushings if you can help it (of course just ignore this bit if you do not suffer with excessive OCD like moi) anyway.... I would fit a bushing under spur & under sector (keep it similar for shimming underneath & selector plate issues) PLUS - also a bushing ON TOP OF BEVEL for durability & if I wind the motor in too far that is 3 out of 6 - the last 3 is up to you and what the situation dictates... a bearing under the bevel is viable - but not maybe if build a stressy snappy build a bearing on top of spur is fine - very little stress there unlike underneath the spur (will help it rotate a tiny bit smoother) a bearing on top of sector is an option, but really the sector rotates once to 4~6 bevel turns (and about 1.75 turns of spur but varies on gear ratio being used, but spins less by comparison) ONE POINT - when using bearings on top of spur/sector... on v3 AK's for example, check to ensure the more protruding bearings do not foul or impede the linkage in use they shouldn't but if using a chunky bearing on a v3, I noticed I needed to smooth AK linage a tiny bit so it glided over the bearing on top of spur gear (very very slight risk of catching, was very close but cleared after a light smoothing of underside of linkage) So EVERY instance is slightly different, the spec of the build, the different ways that SOME cases bearings may snag & other cases, bearings will clear fine as some selectors often have minor recesses to avoid bearings catching (not all are like this) Depends on how chunky the gears are - 13:1's especially SHS's can be fucking chunky I'll use all 6 bushings mostly with the odd bearing if required (chunky spur gear, so on TOP of SPUR) maybe 50/50 mix if a std 18:1 build & say I can find 3 good bearings with little wear/play in original box (in have them to hand - otherwise, fuck it I'll chuck in mostly bushings and be done with it) BUT - it really depends on the box in front of you and what shit fits best plus you go on your gut instinct Bushings are thicker on inside - so slightly less shimming required/available Bearings are usually more exposed externally and in some cases can risk fouling/impeding on selector plate/mechanisms (plus need a bit more shimming internally usually, some might say you have a bit more room flexibility to work with - nah) THERE IS NO RULE BOOK - well not really, bushings are durable but anything shimmed badly will tear itself apart sooner - so it is YOUR CHOICE & attention to detail in the end

15% off today only @ Taiwangun #BLACKFRIDAY Just one problem... I don't think I have any hiding places left for stashing yet more toy guns away

if you get the SAME part/switch then you may probably just need to swap over the busted trolley part when you get another switch - well things can get interesting with trigger/trolley/switches as some switches are a little different to others, sometimes they are interchangable & other times not quite so - not ALL trolleys go in ALL switches not all switches work flawlessly in some guns/triggers some triggers (especially cheap flat "speed triggers" tend to be a bit short on sear that there can be so little metal of trigger pushing trolley at very bottom it jumps off at full pull etc.... Oh fuck me - trigger/switches & compatibilty can be a PITA if you change lots of shit plus if you change switch itself - then resoldering required so if you got an ICS switch or say a SHS trolley is kinda compatible then just keep it simple & change what's broke perhaps best of luck

You "could" have damaged the trolley or shuttle part of switch unit (bit that gets pushed by trigger, into the switch contacts) Less likely trigger itself is damaged, more likely a damaged trolley either underneath where trigger lug/sear engages it or at the ridge/ramp part where the Cut Off Leaver engages & lifts it on semi (Sector cam raises COL that pops trolley up from the trigger sear & pops back The other component is a worn Cut Off Lever of COL Usually made of alloy, non magnetic/ferrous & can wear if you shoot on semi a lot The COL's often don't appear to be worn at first glance... until you compare them against a new one - then you notice how worn they can get When COL wears quite a bit, it hardly lifts the COL via sector semi cam and thus doesn't lift enough reliably to pop the trolley from trigger sear on semi Without seeing the issue & test firing to see/feel what the symptoms are it could either or - worn/busted switch/trolley or worn COL (possibly both even) If the trigger ever feels stiff coming from auto to semi NEVER force it, plop it back into auto & do a quick burst Then hopefully it will cycle with COL lowered and fire on semi OK Force it - easy newbie mistake & you risk busting the trolley PITA these guns, but you get to learn & understand their qwirks Use them correctly (not forcing crap) And hopefully they last a bit longer before needing servicing (Well that is the general idea - don't always go to plan though) Best of luck - ya getting there bit by bit hopefully (Hate using my mobile, poxy thing to respond on)

Well - lesson learnt as they say, good luck with your dispute Now you know better, run stuff past us on here first perhaps (it's fine - there's fuck all goin on atm & we are locked down etc...) buy new crap to break yourself than somebody elses broken shite ps don't bother with the pistol, buy the FUCKING PENCIL instead... (love the: THIS IS NOT A FUCKING TOY bit)

I was actually referring to the gun itself, receiver stock etc... Heard hop was a bit bespoke too But it just seems to be that brittle plastic, on a cold morning would crack if something dropped out Congrats on your upgrading of it though Certain "different" or less common guns sure make a nice change from reg AK's & M4's etc... I was saying to the poor bloke with the tucked up Classic Army/APS pile of Pooh Yes them new M904G's are nice bang for your buck But reckon by next year when things start to return to normal EVERYBODY will have one (figure of speech) and they will be as common as G&G Combat Machines I reckon But yeah, the 904 is going to make other makes up their game a bit more (which is all good for us I guess if we have the cash to splash) Ergh soz for derailing this thread a bit... Last week bought 2 x M904G's myself and a CM.517 for fucking about with for cheap lols

There ya go then - you have your very own Liza I have the Umarex ARX160 Sportsline - weird thing Press bolt catch release - mag drops out Press another button barrel hop releases Bit confusing about a couple of them release buttons Think it is a V3 in there of some description (kinda like the APS UAR, taking M4 ish mags) QC V3 like UAR - it was just one of COD guns Duck Jnr liked So bought it but never used it, brittle plastic etc... Can't afford to, some of the parts are very very bespoke If it busts you are basically fucked getting bits

BLIMEY - looks like an AK shagged a shorty shotgun Producing a bastid love-child that an M4 is supporting (Hence the M4 mags) Nice find at bargain price sir If you think of giving her a name - Liza after Liza Minnelli (She didn't inherit her mum Judy Garland's looks But her fugly director dad's looks instead) I'm sure there are other examples of fugly offspring But Liza Minnelli is just one example of inheriting fugliness Nice touch, guess Black Friday came early for you plus some bargain bespoke bits too will come in handy Best of luck with a few tweaks & all that sir

don't blame the student, blame the teacher

yup - I see the fragile ETU mosfet unit just behind the welded motor I'm guessing the red/posi 2.8mm connector snapped off or broke at the bend so little Timmy thought he would get his mate to weld the wire back on (rather than fit new connector) I'll guess he didn't want to fuck up the better motor that was in Predator so then used cheap shitty motor from say a Combat Machine Raider or something I'd lay money there is nice unwelded Ifrit motor kept back by seller... Green nozzle - fuck knows where from, maybe some cheap unbranded OEM thingy, that was perhaps a bit to snug in G&G hop unit - even some red SHS nozzles can be a tiny bit snug in a brand new G&G hop unit... (Other times they move smoothly - maybe minor variations in batches or if they have been "run in" or any minor burr polished out after a few thousand rounds) I'll guess the nozzle is a bit snug & where the box was refitted, the stock tightened up, tilted box upwards slightly at front. Which then caused the nozzle to rub more at top of hop unit inside - thus the nozzle doesn't fly back n forth smoothly but snags instead Wanker tech, not for making these errors - we have all had grief and we are still dropping the ball at times with shitty toy guns But they are a WANKER for palming it off onto others Than fix the fucking thing properly If they did it correctly, they probably would keep it But nope fuck up the "upgrades" (semi wanker) Couldn't or couldn't be arsed to fix it (lazy wanker) Then offload it onto somebody else (fucking wanker)

I'd thought the Predator would have had the 25k Orange Ifrit motor than the shit grey 18k ferrite motor but the standard of work & craftmanship leaves me lost for words...

how do you jam a nozzle - even tappet plate should fly freely as ETU has no convential trigger trolley shuttling below it must have been assembled by Stevie Wonder & Ray Charles maybe aftermarket nozzle was way too loose on G&G tappet and got borked in use ??? wires chewed up - well by motor they can get chewed and tbh on ETU they should run both the motor wires down back and just have the ETU signal wire/cable by motor entry point on v2 box

If it was a G&G Predator then that has ETU so 50% blame goes to G&G to be fair but I wish kids trying be wannabe techs would stop fucking up their classmates guns (or their own - but blame it on their experienced imaginary tech)

was the gun shooting tracers in the dark the SAME GUN he sold you though ??? and just coz BB's come out doesn't mean it ain't near fucked

I guess Zero In or Zero One forums was down that day min 100/250/500 posts hand note with name/date etc... soz but many different forums adopt this rule and any exemptions - there are some should pm mod with say ebay feedback or something to verify their integrity dodgy sellers can carry on with Free Ad's & other sites, but most of us on here have a bit of integrity & not fleece others, treat as you find & all that

lucky sod, at least he didn't get a fat ugly one

if that has a big dragon M160 motor in there it will fire like fucking high speed 45k rpm on a spring producing 240fps that is a third of the power but some of that is likely due to nozzle filed too short and not sealing against bucking 101% but regardless... the motor is over double the speed of a regular stock/std motor or 50% more than a balanced 25~30k motor low fps/spring, weak spring - yeah you would be hitting even more... motor alone would shoot 25rps on 18:1 gears @ say 340fps add in high speed gears you could acheive say 33rps on 7.4v or 50rps on 11.1v but would be risky on 11.1v weak spring would take it higher money has been spent on it - perhaps but seems like a piss poor tech assembled it OR it WAS assembled correctly onnce but some wanna be has fucked it up & just decided to flogg it on, cutting their losses with it and off loading it motor if a Big Dragon M160 is way too fast, should have strong silver neodym magnets or if not is crappy M120 with weak ferrite - very fast still but not as much grunt (they both tend to draw too much current and run hot - m140 is best motor) gears/box - don't know but looks like it assembled in the dark that could be a hairline cracking starting to appear sooooo if that is correct, then you will need to look at a new gearbox shell £25 https://www.taiwangun.com/gearbox-shell/ver-2-hybrid-gearbox-shell-aps & time to fit it & rectify other issues BUT I would NOT get a APS shell tbh... you want something robust that works than a metal speed mofo in a shell that cracks if you fart near it you can try to contact the seller and at the VERY LEAST seek the cost of a new shell (if that is a fracture appearing - looks like it) or a tech's time say 1hr @ £25 to sort the thing failing that - start a paypal dispute (please don't tell me you gifted the seller money) I'd like to give seller benefit of the doubt & hope this issue can be resolved but at times people selling stuff that is far from description or offloading stuff/shit on its last legs well - that doesn't sit too well with me personally especially when newcomers get left a little bit stung perhaps The issue with some newcomers apart from being a bit naieve if their UKARA hasn't come through, there are people keen to flog shit & ask no questions or you got less comeback (I got stung like that when I first started) get UKARA, buy new shit and forget buying broken guns from moody sellers (now I simply break all my own guns instead )

YES - buy a new gun is that gearbox an APS QC v2 with a hairline crack start to show above cylinder head ??? The first clip/pic seems to show the startings of a small crack appearing to me though it could be a casting defect APS boxes are known to crack if pushed though wtf is an APS doing in a Classic Army M4 what happened to original box how old is this gun (for real, not just 9 months old bollox) sorry you had a bad purchase (didn't buy it from a bloke in Ireland by chance ???) had dealings with a fine tech seller there many years ago... did the bloke put sawdust in the box to quieten down the gear shimming ???