Sitting Duck

what you are supposed to do is basic common sense as in entering safe zone..... mag out - fire gun two or three times on semi to clear any bb's job done - unless your gun is firing extremely fast that is it magazine is also important - release the tiny catch - hopefully into the bag of bb's (unless you love seeing bb's flying around on the floor) empty the remainder of mag is optional but makes good wise sense... reason for this - if you leave magazine loaded up and fully wound up.... the spring inside hi-cap or mid-cap magazine will lose its tension and you will notice mag feeds $hit so park gun & empty magazine(s) when ya done tucking gun up with a blanket is optional but only if you still love your gun still

soz - fogot to mention that but may be more economical on gas

http://www.airshooter.co.uk/hg-0302-hfc-mk23-airsoft-gas-pistol.html#.VvbiktKLSt8 BUT - I don't think the item is actually in stock tbh it is another website of onlybbguns or iwholesalers it seems and onlybbguns don't have any in stock: http://www.onlybbguns.co.uk/hfc-hg-302-mk23-airsoft-gas-pistol.html#.Vvbi6dKLSt8 but at £41:85 delivered - that is a bargain if you wanna take a chance of them having one left even on only it is £50 - even with using the " RC10 " to get 10% off that takes it down to £45 so under £42 is cheap as heck (RC10 don't work on airshooter site - I already tried that when I saw they might be same company) sadly I wouldn't hold your breath but that is about one of the best cheap as chips gas guns you can get 27 or 28 rnd mag - go nutz You could go nutz on a TM pistol or WE or a cheap n cheerful HFC - STTi - SRC (same company just rebrands) ps - you are wise sir and understand the regulations governing airsoft - some may seem a little daft but we abide by them all the same so refreshing to see that some people understand rather than - my gun why can't I do this or that with it attitude of some people or bbguns4less - damn I don't like to recommend these guys.... https://bbguns4less.co.uk/products/kj-works-stealth-assassin-socom-mk23-gas-pistol.html oh well have a think and see what takes ya fancy - just use eye protection & common sense indoors (not that you should go senseless outdoors either)

look at ya gun - it is likely small tamiya.... two top right connectors are male/female small tamiya - reckon 90 to 98% stock guns will be small tamiya (probably 99% but I don't own every gun out there) bottom right 4 are large tamiya - unlikely to be used in most guns - maybe big fixed stocks but should have adapter from Large to Small Tamiya bottom left is a small tamiya btw like top right two 3 on top left are deans - usually found on upgraded guns - allows more current to flow through thicker 16awg wires to motor (16awg is quite thick and not all guns/gearboxes can squeeze in wires as thick as that) other connectors found/used... mini deans - unlikely to found but have seen a US baby M4 AEG that came with mini deans XT60 & banana plugs - mainly used on RC stuff than airsoft but some do use these connectors on guns I have seen Airsoft is usually small tamiya or Deans if upgraded as in picture sometimes using RC batteries that have XT60 connectors you need to re-do connections or get correct adapter polarity differs also on Large & Small Tamiya's so if using an adapter double check polarity is 101% correct Lipo's often have a min of 16awg - often 14awg, or higher burst 12awg+ wires in them jeez - really thought most of all this would be in that 3 page essay posting we done a while back I think I'm done on this for now - if you speak to componentshop.co.uk they will sort you out and answer any queries

G&G's use normal v2 A&K use extended v2 or 2.5 gearbox Difference - air volume The extended v2 has 19 tooth sector to give a longer piston stroke to create more air required for longer barrels Though length doesn't equate to accuracy - but if you try and fit a 550mm+ barrel to a G&G SR25.... good luck getting the oomph required - even with a bore up cylinder You can turn almost any decent normal M4 into a dmr without having to go down the must have SR25 route most sites aren't that picky on proper DMR's as long as they are locked to semi or go for cyma m14 - CM032 that seems to be a popular dmr gun

Plastic bb's ricochet EVERYWHERE indoors - set up your targets well and surrounding areas also to absorb impact from any flyers

lipo improves the fun factor works in all weather - though I doubt if the guy is that tight he doesn't have heating in his house... Of course I have heating - just choose only to use when its -5 inside... - kidding just a thought - he could scrape by with a cheapy non blowback mk23 pistol and use the suppressor to up the fps outside hey wtf - go for a shotgun, no accuracy but a tri-shot should get near that target - sod aiming that much

TM = Tokyo Marui - one of the best brands there is in airsoft daft question - but how about a cyma electric glock or something pistol ??? now it might only shoot at about 200fps but think that would be a little safer for shooting indoors ??? better than a springer - don't need gas, battery is a little fiddly is only thing that you might find a pain but for indoor target shooting I think it might be a consideration cheaper cyma glock £60 aprox or the mighty Tokyo Marui do an electric pistol £110-ish unless you got a 100 meter through lounge

They only catch fire if the UK comes out of EU No lipo's are a lot safer if we come out of EU then we have more control over our lipo's borders economy and funny shaped carrots/banana's etc... The scaremongering is stop idiots like me thinking stupid thoughts and being a dick with lipo's trust me they are fine - just don't do stupid $hit... (says king stupid $hit himself)

Stitch me up - think you need about 6 maybe a dozen Ian and some others got some done from there - good stuff on FaceBook blah blah blah

motor connector, try to strengthen the elbow - 90 degree bend with a bit of extra solder not massive blobs - just a thin bit of solder inside n out on the bend they can weaken so easily that they blow under load like a low rated fuse or just snap when fitting to motor HOLD UP THE CONNECTOR - if you don't then there is a chance solder can flow into connector itself if that happens you won't get the bastid on the motor at all and will nee to cut & replace with another new connector So fit, little crimp n solder connector, hold upwards, strengthen with a smidge more solder at the elbow - job done (I have welded a few connectors - so like everything, we are still learning by our numerous mistakes)

gotcha - might one of them anyway from Hong Kong seems to be like the other one but balance board built into meter already

there is setting on B6 in the manual somewhere... I have enough fun if I try to alter Lipo to Life and back to Lipo again jeez I tried saving some settings but thought a prog fet was tricky but B6 gets a bit wtf if you start altering some of them mofo settings that is all I know yeah got one them thingy's too but for checking amps really or balancing qwirky lipo's had one on B6 that was all over the place.... balanced on this thingy majig recharged and lipo balanced a little better - bit w@nked still but balanced w@nked than before http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RC-Helicopter-Watt-Meter-DC-60V-100A-Balance-Voltage-Battery-Power-Analyzer-UK-/291305470857?hash=item43d328bb89:g:ticAAOSwkNZUcql0 sure they were only about £7 or £8 last year - jeez inflation... or are you talking about this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Key-Ring-Style-Lipo-Battery-Voltage-Checker-HobbyKing-2-6S-RC-Lipoly-Cell-UK-/191703062448?hash=item2ca26497b0:g:BZAAAOSw~1FUXOm8

Really - I've got one 11.1v that is a bit puffy but not noticed it on my usual 7.4v's one of them got run really low that gun failed to cycle but still works which I was quite amazed at - thought yeah that lipo is shagged I mean they come charged up - to what actual volts I don't know probably 3.7v-ish per cell What I will say is that a cheap B3 type balance charger was deffo over charging a bit - maybe 4.25v+ per cell and that may not have helped Also if anybody gets a LiFe battery - well don't coz think they ain't that great DO NOT USE A LIPO OR LIPO SETTING as these are 3.3v cells if you charge a LiFe up to 4.2v it will damage the LiFe battery some chargers have a LiFe function or setting - so use the LiFe setting for LiFe batteries - not LiPo settings

You do understand that nozzle retracted is nothing to be alarmed about in operation on its own.... By the time the first tooth on a 16 sector gear engages the pickup up tooth, I would say the tappet is already drawn back 90% - at least 80% of its travel already. By the time the piston is released - the tappet cam is at about 3:30 o'clock, meaning it has only one quarter revolution before it begins to retract tappet plate again. A little overspin - piston being retracted is fine but if after doing various tweaks you still are not happy then an AB Mosfet should reduce it - but I wouldn't bother myself If the gun is firing ok then the main problem is sorted Nozzle retraction will happen in nigh on most guns - stop worrying about nozzle see if piston is over well over half way retracted or double firing in semi - then you are running present setup too fast stronger spring + SS if possible if that was the case Gun fires - problem sorted - no worries Think you will find your gun very likely retracted the tappet before you opened it up unless AB mosfet that slows/stops the motor very quickly or you run it very slowly rof like 10rps the box will run on a bit and retract tappet anyway As said by the time the first tooth on sector gear engages the piston (AoE corrected btw) and just prepares to pull piston The tappet plate is already @ 85% retraction As guns cycle quicker with higher volts/juice, stronger motor etc... this over-run will increase if you are pushing a stock gun into 20's you will get some over-spin and piston itself getting a little pre-cocked If gun starts to fire twice on semi - you are pushing too much 20rps is fine with a tiny bit of over run or pre-cocking 25rps starts to over run a bit much & double fires 30rps deffo double fires and danger of Pre Engagement so keep it moderate - to save storing gun with spring compressed or pre-cocked use a lower/old/used battery that ensures the gun parks without piston /spring compressed the tappet plate will be retracted in nigh on most guns unless AB or very slow speeds

search button helps http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/28401-moving-to-lipos-whadda-i-need-to-know/ not typing all that crap again discharge - nah sod that - remove lipo and as long as they stay above 3v per cell they will charge fine as long as they don't charge above max 4.2v per cell that is fine in a perfect world cells balance perfectly - but hey ho if that don't always work use a bit of common sense - if they look puffed or damaged then replace a little puff is fine - don't puncture them or you will regret it like I did

safe as houses....

Think BOT with CM = polymer receiver The BOT with Skull = metal receiver There are numerous models out there so look at a number of them and check/ask loads tbh G&G polymers are fine - nigh on most of mine are all polymer G&G's all I'm saying don't think a metal Combat Machine is a MUST have be all & end all type of thing Bot is 200 or 205mm barrel CM18 is 275 I think - perhaps best looking classic polymer Combat Machine M4 that looks/ticks most boxes - well for me anyway

Whooaaaaa - easy there fella - these youngsters hate history (keep telling my son - don't worry about your history test results too much - it's all in the past anyway) But when I see an ol' classic Ford or rare TR7 still running - miracle for TR7 coz it just rusts away after 10 years let alone 30-40 yrs But yeah JambWow & Dom @ BBGuns4Less should be flogging these as Zombie G&G's nah - probably not, it would make their other stuff look really realy crap btw in our first flat we did a "trendy" blue like the other Raider - Blue & Yellow bathroom Thought it was very modern - nah looking back it looked like a Little Tykes Play House bathroom I guess

Sell it as Rare Zombie Outbreak Edition thought you was getting a receiver or did that fall through on here ??? end of the day it ain't that bad - bit of cammo tape should help or if playing indoors - uhm cammo don't work that great anyway unless you go for all black ninja style and keep to the shadows Yes you could flogg it as is if that is bother ya too much or wait and see what gun you want next.... Still can sell it at some point as a 2-tone gun but really it isn't as bad as you think bit of cammo tape is the most I'd go, easy to remove if a bit sticky alcho wipes or washing up liquid but still look presentable rather than start creating an abortion of a spray job that will only chip off over time - unless you boat it with loads of varnish/laquer Most important is if it shoots ok which it should do in fact people love to run with pinky's stop worrying and save ya money I think for another gun

back on topic rather than what may or may not void warranty.... Is it painted and where - is it a solid blue polymer receiver or just over painted G&G did do some colours and a clear receiver too for the Carbine and some others but seem to have dropped these or retailers are not buying the coloured receivers any more AirsoftZone though do some odd 2-tone guns with white CM on them so wonder if they actually buy these coloured receiver G&G guns: http://airsoftzone.co.uk/airsoft-guns/two-tone Kinda think the blue one is best - well better than zombie green edition as some JBBG might bull$hit ya Rare G&G Raider - Zombie Outbreak Edition - lol Think I've just given JambWow another money making idea to sell to new players (best gun evvaaaa) post a pic - look inside magwell etc... see if it is solid colour or black underneath (perhaps a small scratch inside magwell will confirm coloured or painted receiver)

Think re-shelling a gun would perhaps void warranty or certainly infringe upon it yes the sticker on gearbox would remain intact but I can smash the gearbox to f*ck without opening it up high voltage, bb jam, keep firing gun - BOOOOM even with a fuse protection still there

where is the stock tube mount ? charging handle has to be swapped over from old receiver plus selector etc..... like I say a complete full receiver should be available for about £50 but tbh it is up to you

300 BOT Supposed to have a mosfet but does not metion the flawed ETU If you look carefully the ETU pictures at airsoftzone actually show a new type receiver as fitted to SR FFR Predator's etc.... The 300 BOT is a normal CM receiver - so the pictures shown with ETU are incorrect Also on G&G website there is no mention of a mosfet at all http://www.guay2.com/web/manual/CM16_300BOT_manual.pdf http://www.guay2.com/web/gc_product/gc16_300bot.php?lang=en note look at either the CM16 300 - polymer receiver or the GC16 with skull metal receiver version None mention the mosfet nor an ETU that usually found with 3rd burst dairy lea mosfet that works/don't work depending on battery or time of the month (thank f*ck) I have noticed a few innaccuracies on G&G site FFR2 A2 is always listed as having a 260mm barrel but must be same as BOT's 205mm barrel coz that is what I measured it as Retailers say it has a mosfet even a youtube review says mosfet though no mention of 3rd burst so presume basic std mosfet http://www.zerooneairsoft.com/product_info.php?cPath=268_318_403_494&products_id=4398 So - unless you get some better clarification on the BOT I wouldn't bother but get a CM18 instead is my personal gut feeling As for your Raider - spray/fairy it - sod buying a new receiver - even one for about £50 tbh it is a Raider - it will never be a TM - well yeah you could go nutz but it will still look like a Raider Nothing wrong with that - think I'd customise it a little but sod reshelling it No offense and it is just my opinion but just use it as it is and maybe some tweaks/service don't go nutz though - that money should be put towards another good gun sadly not all G&G's are highly recommended by me - but that is just my take on them it is your money and your choice but be careful about what G&G you buy next is all I say

Sigh, the important thing is to keep barrel clean..... yes silicone will assist bb's to slide down the barrel with nearly zero drag BUT if a tiny tiny drop of silicone mist of gets on that bucking in hop - you are gonna notice the crappy effects and until you totally strip that hop down it will remain like that for quite some time So the general advice is for people to NOT use silicone until you have gained experience in barrel cleaning you learn exactly where your hop is and keep a good inch or 25.4mm away from it at least Cleaning the barrel with alcho wipes is the main thing - cheap and easy to use The cleaning rod that you use - mark it where you feel the hop unit is cleaning the barrel first of all crud that builds up to stop the bb dragging on this crud will help maintain performance so do that just with alcho wipes for a good while..... if at a later date the you wish to polish it with silicone then you are aware of the risks of contaminating the hop rubber or bucking It does help to reduce drag but like I said get it on your bucking and you won't get the backspin you should be getting So bb's or their range is actually worse and you are screwed - complete strip down or replace bucking THAT is why we do not recommend silicone for barrel cleaning tbh it is good really but ONLY IF YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING AND UNDERSTAND THE RISKS !!!! only a very very small amount is needed and you buff it with a dry cloth to polish it - well away from hop unit If anybody is thinking this is way way OTT try this....... apply a small tiny amount of silicone on your kitchen floor..... polish it up with dry cloth - now you see how slippery it is as your nearly break ya neck walking on it if that is your bucking - it is f*cked !!! now get some hot water, washing up liquid, lots of bubbles/lather, get on your knees and try to de-grease that silicone before you have a bloody accident ACTUALLY - don't put it on floor - polish say a worktop as you will avoid breaking your neck or others that use that kitchen It is very very slippery stuff but can cause more grief if used improperly..... So just clean barrel with alcho wipes - that will do wonders on its own Silicone if used needs very very very very careful application in the most smallest of amount and polished and polished dry Spraying, pouring, soaking the cloth in silicone - that is just a waste of time and you may as well start stripping down the barrel/hop now Think that should get the message across to most people - hope so coz I'm done on this