Sitting Duck

agree the skimming would be the same with any gearset - I was merely pointing out these fancy bollox mosfets do shave a tiny little off the max possible performance - this is offset by the fancy features like precocking which compensates for any minor drop in overall rof on full auto Nonetheless - this shaving needs to taken into account when expecting say a max rof of say 25rps on 7.4v, 30k & 13:1 - you might only hit 22rps no matter how perfect you build 2 similar guns (1 old school 16awg & other Titan bells & whistles) Any expected ROF is simply just that, there are so many variables that can effect slight difference in rof and as always there is always a mild sprinkling of luck or good fortune is things go well or really fucking well... and no I'm still a noobie like JD than a fucking mad ranting nutter like Dr Cox just reminding us that no matter how clever or good we think we are sometimes when shit goes really well - a small part of it can be down to a little bit of luck (otherwise nigh every build would be close to perfection - when often in reality it isn't & work in progress) a cheap £8 power meter is what I use - it is like chrono though my amp meter/chrono might say this & others say slightly different (chrono's do vary only slightly perhaps, but mosfet readings often read higher) The point is that what Titans & stuff report in there settings/figures take with a pinch of salt sure you can compare that gun's readings with a different motor etc... but there can be a bigger difference when comparing what me or others say might read (on a meter) and that stand alone meter is used for numerous guns to test & compare 5 sec auto draw amperage... than what the Titan says the amp draw is The Amps don't really alter much on 7.4v or 11.1v, not really they might be a smidge more or less on a different battery - if one has higher C rating or capacity basically if one battery can supply the current under load slightly better and the amps roughly remain the same or in that area on 7.4v or 11.1v I've found (or again not a MASSIVE difference) You are looking at amp draw to see how efficiently it is all running (drive chain wise) Wattage is Volts x Amps of course so obviously will alter depending on battery but you are checking for amp draw of a build (worry/work out watts if you wish later if you wish, we're just checking amps) High speed motors like 40k & up REALLY up the amps like 24 amps so me personally stick to around 25~30k rpm motors at about 12~16 amps say apart from higher amps, them faster motors in theory will wear brushes quicker (motor is spinning faster = more wear, in "theory", though depends on how gun is used/sprayed) but will deffo drain battery quicker & stuff runs hotter on high speed motors variations in motors - similar specs can still vary as no two motors/cars/guns are the same but also with slightly used motors a bit of carbon build up soon lowers the max possible rof so if the commutator/motor a bit blacked with carbon then the rof/rps will lower not an enormous amount but still a factor to taken into consideration at times

Really really daft question.... But when you swapped the 13:1 for the 12:1 set... if you short stroked the sector in 13:1 - did you do the same for the 12:1 coz if not then you will compressing the spring more etc... and thus lose a bit on ya rof etc... Silly question but thought I'd ask just in case... Also if your 12:1 set has a 9 tooth bevel as opposed to a 10t one, (if you use a 9t bevel on a set that came with a 10t bevel then the ratio increases by 10% so a 12.65:1 becomes 13.91:1 or slower than the 13:1 set) Your motor could be mislabelled - try the JG or something ??? The difference on 12:1 & 13:1 is fuck all as I said previously me personally I'd say the 12:1 is 12.75:1 & 13:1 is like 13.5:1 according to brill armoury/armory (damn yanks & their own English) according to them they are 12.65:1 & 13.65:1 - well whatever... like the 16:1 (17.25:1) to 18:1 (18.65:1) the difference in ratio is about 8% (13.65/12.65 or 18.65/17.25 = about 1.08) this 8% difference in ratio will not yeild 8% in rps as the slight increase in load from ratio so realistically expect only about 5% increase to the final rps which if you are hitting say 16~17rps on 13:1, or say 13rps on 18:1... then switching to slightly faster gear set won't even gain 1 single round per second (again the difference is really fuck all) with regards to amp draw & stuff... amp draw on Leviathan/Titan's differ to what power meters say so I personally stick with a meter that I test all guns with the fancy bollox mosfets can tell the exchange rate, sunrise in Mongolia, the latest share prices but it is fucking useless at informing me the amp draw of another gun or stock gun with no Titan in it plus with all them gubbings n shit, I tend to think it reports the amp draw differently to a meter so I take what them fancy mosfets say about the amp draw with a pinch of salt simply because I don't think you can compare what a Titan says the amps are Vs a power meter (same power meter used on all guns when checking/benchmarking) so nah soz, I reckon a meter will say the amp draw on say 5 sec auto is about 13 amp max & if it reported the draw being over 20a then the shimming is shit or spring is way overpowered The other issue is that these fancy bollox mosfets do skim a little off the max possible rof It isn't their fault, you can't help it - every diode has a forwarding voltage which basically means it needs a small voltage to turn on - about 0.5v plus all the other gubbings in that board & reporting what time sunrise is etc... you are having the voltage availbe to the motor terminals slightly reduced not a mega amount like 7.4v out of a 11.1v, but you are going to have the full capacity slightly skimmed So what the Titans report on, the overal rof even with 100% rof is going to vary slightly to what say an old school aeg might achieve or state with a seperate meter on it (another daft question: you have got rof set to 100% not say 90% - just asking) The weird thing about shimming is to ensure you tighten the box up the same as previously... The urge to clenched fist tighten the screws up - just to be safe... Nope - finger & thumb on the screwdriver - nipped up moderately tightly just like you did when shimming.... you tighten the box EXACTLY or with the EXACT same force/torque as previously for shimming When you try to mega tighten the box you do throw the shimming out a smidge and if you had very slight play when you shimmed it nicely... Then expect that slight play to begin to disappear when you clenched ya fist to tighten the box up So consistancy really matters like most things on reassembly Wiring = wiring can make a slight difference not saying totally rewire a gun, but for sure ensure the motor connectors are snug and make good firm contact with motor terminals as you try different motors and/or reopen the box, them connectors do tend to loosen slightly so check & if required crimp the contacts with thin nose pliers to ensure a sound connection Ensure that if/when you reopen the box, check motor height with grip, motor etc... using top half of gearbox shell, your pinion should be sitting just right on the outer edge of bevel but just making full contact with bevel If motor is a bit too high, then you need to lower motor and add say 0.1 shim to top of bevel if motor too low then reduce shimming on top of bevel slightly & increase motor height hopefully you should see the pinion in right place next time you have the box apart on bench what we all try to acheive is ensure the parts we use are installed as close to perfection as possible hopefully resulting in close to perfect efficiency & performance as possible (though due to natures of these fucking shite toy guns - sometimes easier said than doine)

YUP - it is the classic China motor, with the 2 tabs punched shut at sides. The 2 screws you fit the Schottky diode to do not enter a lockring like on SHS/G&G's, Fit a cheapy Schottky diode on there, thus reducing the sparks from motor's inductive load, when switch re-opens as trolley pops on semi, (or you release trigger on auto). The sparks come from the power shutting off at switch, as switch opens, but energy is stored in motor/relay, and THAT is where/when the spark jumps across the opening contacts... The diode just tells the sparks to fuck off. Wrap the diode leads CLOCKWISE if possible... for some reason in ICS video they wrap it counter-clockwise, I mean it will work & all that... just if you wrap wires CCW they can tend to want to fight their way off the screw you tighten CW, so if you wrap the wire/lead CLOCKWISE it tends to fight less as you tighten screw... Bit like when people apply PTFE tape to plumbing compression joints but wrap the wrong way & wonder why tape is stripping away as they tighten joint. Again wrap the tape clockwise the way the nut tightens and it doesn't fight to undo as you tighten. Same with wires/leads, wrap CW if possible so it fights less trying to jump off screw as you tighten

To be honest this £135 bollox condition... I THINK - and I could be wrong.... from what it sounds like below that VAT is collected/forwarded by seller (unsure if remains in Poland or goes to UK) above £135, then goods are zero rated (I think), so no 23% Polish VAT applied then you as buyer/importer pay 20% VAT & any duty/fees on arrival in UK TWO THINGS... 1) I personally thought if we got a trade deal then we'd buy/pay the VAT in country of origin (not paying VAT on entry to UK like we did as EU member/transition etc...) That is what I thought a "free trade deal" meant - trade freely no real hassle/paperwork no calculate VAT/Duty What is with the £135 bollox and procedure differing for goods below/above this ceiling 2) Not being funny, but how is this deal a free trade deal and why after this fucking about why did we not just go WTO and be done with it ??? I thought getting a deal done meant just that - stuff carries on nigh on as it was (we continue to pay the EU member's VAT in country of origin & UK gets little/nothing in public purse) I'm well confused & think the £135 min order is so GF has less extra paperwork/liability when processing orders (reckon EU sellers may have tried to place a min order say €50 anyway to fill out declaration/form for UK) I'm confused if all goods now will be zero rated or not & what is declared/paid regarding UK VAT on arrival This so called deal seems to be a confusing mish mash tbh where one minute this side got the better deal & then the other side claims they got better deal yet in reality nobody is truly happy & like this GF crap seems to show... Everybody is a little confused what the fuck is happening soon (think it is gonna take a while for dust to settle & some clarity appears on what is what) regards Confused Brit

true dat

naaahhhh - you can become famous thanks to YouTube... if this bloke suffers a cardiac arrest & needs defibrillator well it better be a 3 phase one or something coz how he is alive is beyond me

as said the ICS & KWA motors are the "normal" cheapo China motor types... they got them locking tabs at sides... The SHS/G&G & others that have 2 allen screw/bolts fastening into a lock ring inside (that CONDUCTS !!!) there is a risk of shorting if you place a diode across them (perhaps) but I wouldn't fit a flyback to a G&G/SHS motor like ICS clip shows KWA does it a bit differently, wired in as a module in series so should work on G&G/SHS (so some kudos to KWA I suppose but calling it a fancy name - jeeeez marketing BS or wot) ICS method is the simple straight forward method & is fine for cheapo "tabbed" motors, but bit tricky or risky perhaps on other motor types as you may short shit out if not careful on lockring type motors only saying this in case somebody tries to sue me for fireworks inside their toy gun you can just wire it across the wires, just on certain motor types you MIGHT create a short with the lockring motors - that's all The diode needs to be across the motor, preferably as close as possible to motor but can be a tiny bit further back (not much) or not quite immediately directly across motor (like the tiny extra wiring dooberry in the KWA bollox) HOWEVER - the diode MUST be between the switch & motor to snub the sparks (in a non mosfet gun) If you put the diode across the positive & negative wires BEFORE switch it doesn't snub the spark So the diode goes somewhere across the motor & between motor+switch so to speak There are a number of options, you can splice a diode in & a mosfet should have protection in it anyway, where/what the protection is varies on mosfet model (the 3034 is a more robust mosfet than the cheap ones like 1404's, a 1404 benefits from a flyback) you can add a flyback to most guns, but usually it goes across or close to motor to snub sparks Diodes - even mosfets nick a tiny tiny smidge of juice before they turn on, called the forwarding voltage "Well hello there...", no switch on then, but you won't really notice it and you need to prevent burning out contacts somehow for long term reliability on 11.1v Flyback/Snubber/Schottky are a cheap effective method to drastically reduce the damage on 11.1v I'm not an electrical engineer so be warned trying to slap schottky's across G&G's, SHS's etc... on the cheapo "tabbed" motors you will be fine to wire it across the motor itself

Think I'll launch a new thingy too Dynamic Electrical Assistance Nexus System...

Oh yeah - before Talkmobile I had a PAYG sim with nowt on it but missus had Friends n family so calls between me, her, the kids were free etc... Didn't need any data at all, 6 or 7 years ago there wasn't much mobile surfing the net so much These days, bit bored on lunchbreak - check in here & what shit in the news/footy most people using Whats App or what other bollox there is (wtf happened to just ringing people, must be getting old I guess) now n then the google maps n stuff has been handy, quick browse when I'm about check store times or stock - still hate mobile internet surfing on the whole but data - even for an old dino like me I have gotten used to in last few years and not rely on wifi hotspots my in-laws not so long ago were the mugs still paying £27+ a month EACH ages after their old mobile contracts ended with their now dated Sony/Apple Iphone 5's Still hate all this shopping around bollox though every year for gas n leccy though but any dosh saved is more cash to splash on peew peew crap instead

oh yeah, there are moments when the bloke wouldn't have head or foot left but still cleverly done - though each stick had a flyback diode installed I reckon here kwa snubber/flyback bollox The new KWA SLE - Switch Life Extender https://airsoft.tiger111hk.com/m239/KWA/p37623/KWA-VM4-RONIN-6-PDW-AEG-2.5-Rifle-(Black)/product_info.html nnaaaahhhh it's a snubber flyback diode ya cheeky marketing cunts BUT - still more reliable than a G&G ETU I guess

failing that - use a snubber/flyback diode across a NORMAL cheapo motor don't put them on SHS/G&G types - well I wouldn't... think kwa use this as some fancy bollox to save trigger contacts but yeah it is a flyback diode to drastically lessent the sparks at contact which incidently is not when the circuit if first closed as many think but as the trolley pops and the switch opens once again - ZZAAPPP a large massive spark jumps from the inductive load - aka da motaaa and THAT is how your contacts arc n weld n shit 50p diode, schottky diode qwells 98% of the arcing ninja'd coz dinner was being dished up - lol WHY THE FUCK DID I QUOTE MYSELF ??? THOUGHT I WAS EDITTING THE POST DAMN IT was looking for the kwa or king arms thingy with super duper trigger saver module (it's a fucking flyback diode ffs)

doubt if you will get anything smaller... it's fucking tiny... https://www.airsoftworld.net/perun-mosfet.html

Well I thought it was a cheap light user deal Virtual network - uses Vodafone, actually now owned by them (was Carphone Warehouse's own network on Vodafone I think) £6:50 5gb data unlimited calls & texts doubt if you can get much cheaper without cashback redemption or half price 3 months crap.... Not mega fast data speeds 20mbps but not ultra slow & 5gb should be ample for light users like moi https://www.uswitch.com/mobiles/sim-only-deal/bc6ea73b1e039204070a070623d50881ee27ca72/?position=1&impression_id=efda3792-c405-4238-8ee1-d71939b3b6a9-1&comparison_id=efda3792-c405-4238-8ee1-d71939b3b6a9&list=20&page=20 seems to be a U-Switch deal, not listed elsewhere I've been with them for about 4 years paying originally £10, then £8, then £7:50 for 4gb/3,000 mins/texts now shaved a quid off with more data & now unlimited calls/texts anyway - I need Vodfone where I live, all others get no signal (must live in a faraday cage - tried them all) So be aware this is Vodafone network

Agreed, both TWG (way back in 2014) & Gunfire did points to collect could use your points for delivery or decent stuff (cheap gun, gearbox, bb's etc...) now GF points in finishing on 31st December with fuck all available to exchange them for postage has shot up, free postage used to be like 150 Euro's then 230, now think it was about 300 last time I looked edit: oh yeah them GF bastids added paypal fees to order a while back too (TWG does charge you for paying via PayPal) Mind you TWG does free delivery to all of Europe except UK since about 2017 Think exchange rates like with the dollar have had an impact on stuff though GF does some good offers on spare parts at times, but not so much on guns so gotta go some to make it worthwhile in 2020 and with 2021 around the corner, think the cheap as chips GF days are long gone now (no more points, free shipping qualifying always increasing, PayPal fees etc...) Another thing is that Gate & Perun stuff may be slightly impacted by UK/EU stuff overall, think we may need to ensure we want to buy more shit than casually buying stuff "coz it was on offer..." which may not be a bad thing tbf we shall see, might help small retailers like Pete @ak2m4 so silver lining & all that meantime we can try to make our old faithful shit run more efficiently to keep up with the new fancy bollox - but still a peew peew toy gun sewing machine in the end we shall see...

Well - seems OP was making some progress but a little feedback/update would help maybe ??? couldn't give a toss who is right/wrong not even looking for a fanx to all who responded more a case for others facing similar issues & seeing what helped/didn't help understand it's chrimbo & lockdown crap but an update at some point would be nice/courteous congrats anyway making some progress to fix/resolve some issues with your gun

think the tight bucking lips from the madbull is looking to be an area which needs investigating as said some buckings are a bit tight/pinchy in some hops (had it myself & needed to rethink the barel/hop/bucking combo on more than one occasion) yes at a push if tight apeture or lips, you could use a conical dremmel tool to widen/open it a whisker but risky like any mod/bodge, but if up shit creek & understood risks of fucking it all up then yeah maybe could just be a case of ramming the barrel too far into hop, that bucking lips protrude into feedtube thus the exposed lips catch/fold over when attempting to feed/chamber the ammo... had mega fat bucking all distorting as it is all assembled - yet pass the push test & other times thinner buckings glide in smoothly but struggle to let bb's push through (often it all goes together ok, but at times it is a PITA for niggly problems) just slapping a long list of high end parts together means little if attention to detail is in short supply (if you ain't checking, then you ain't really teching) we've all been there though, learning from our many mistakes (wisdom)

I think you mean too long it's a scar H with fatty mags & long mofo nozzle than the scar L with m4 stuff if OP has used the 38.4mm scar H nozzle with the Maxx scar hop it should be correct... https://www.maxxmodel.com/cnc-aluminum-hopup-chamber-sv-vfc-scar-lh.html#:~:text=The Hopup Chamber SV unit is designed to accept the,losing FPS or dropping BBs. deffo seems like a jumbo mofo nozzle for scar h... a shorter nozzle feeds better a longer nozzle (than req), feeds crap SHS tappet should retract a whisker more than most tappets but ridge where nozzle sits is not quite centred meaning nozzle sits a fine whisker further back, hence why some lightly sand tappet front but SHS tappet if anything sits half a whisker back (more retraction) I think it is a classic case of changing WAY WAY WAY TOO MUCH IN ONE GO tbh suffice to say some compatibility/tolerances have gone out the window and due to lack of checking each component as it is replaced etc.... the issue(s) could lie in a number of places but hop/bucking should be checked before tearing box open (try old hop/barrel, coz reckon new maxx combo is a prime suspect) two grand spent, with madbull bucking etc... & it don't feed ouch - I'd be pissed too analogy - maybe this or sprinkling glitter on something

you built a complete Maxx hop, Madbull blue bucking with Lambda barrel... so try the old stock hop/barrel combo so I'd test for bb's passing through the Maxx hop setup & if in doubt switch to old hop/barrel combo & test simple process of elimination if you got the red Maxx 38.4mm nozzle it "should" be correct length as long it moves OK - not too trightly on cylinder head it "should" operate OK etc... test the bb passing through hop/bucking & if crap - test old hop/barrel unit

bit of a bummer, get used to pulling trigger fully I guess switch has long prongs, trolley engages (just) before COL can properly get under it as AH said fine tuning the triger/trolley/COL bollox is a PITA So stuff is just generally slapped in with a bit of a margin to operate.... Sometimes a different trigger jumps off trolley at full pull sometimes the trolley engages a bit early - fine for normal operation (but fine pull then you notice it - like in your case) sometimes the COL wears or not compatible & you get issues even replacement selector plates can cause issues - yet most of time it works within a margin bit of a PITA it is a bit picky on a new gun, normally without a mosfet the lug would burn down a bit over time - this won't be so with the mosfet so it will be something you need to get used to if you keep the gun and maybe investigate when it needs a bit of a service at some point meantime get used to pulling the trigger fully I guess you could run it on 7.4v = slower and will reduce the cycle time so gun/col catches on trolley better (as you pull the trigger more fully at slower speeds) but guess on snappier 11.1v you just need to pull the trigger more assertively I guess so it catches & pops the trolley

So you chucked all this together in one go ??? First thing - is it mag related (do not refute this and then discover a shit midcap fails to feed from jammed bb's inside mag) so try a few mags (known to work well in other m4 type guns) OK - it is "likely" not mag related - given how much crap has changed (but always best to confirm) Hop/Bucking bollox - does a bb slip through the bucking lips OK ??? are the lips catching the bb, folding over causing jam/misfeeds ??? if the lips are tight you will struggle to get a bb to push through & chamber correctly (can't be THAT tight - ergh yes they can, that tappet spring ain't that fucking strong) somewhere in that vid it shows/explains how the bb is dropped in and MODERATELY pushed through to barrel/nub can't remember where - it's in there somewhere you should feel some SLIGHT resistance and require only MODERATE effort to push the bb through to barrel (issue being that everybody's definition of "moderate" will vary slightly) but you should not have to use much force at all, just enough that it doesn't fall in on it's own and a mild light push it goes through the lips to barrel/nub *** DO NOT GO MODDING THE HOP UNIT FFS *** it was to show the tight bucking lip test, modding shit is very very very fucking rarely ever needed (and only is such extreme rare cases, by confident people who can afford to fuck up a brand new hop) if you have a bb catching on lips, or very tight entry/lips then expect feeding issues - even on slow/mild semi speeds (on full auto at higher speeds - fuck all comes out) People may sometimes say "it's firing two bb's at once" in reality it is quite rare, usually it is misfeeding, partly loaded bb is then followed by another bb & 2 bb's appear exiting normal operation on semi spamming... 1 - 1 - 1 - 1 - 1 - 1 - 1 - 1 - 1 - 1 - 1 - 1 - 1 - 1 - 1 - 1 - 1 - 1 - 1 etc.... on bastid guns with feed issues.... 1 - 1 - 0 - 2 - 1 - 0 - 1 - 1 - 0 - 2- 1 - 1 - 0 - 1 - 1 - 0 - 1 - 0 - 1 (the gun failed to feed a bb, sometimes it just missed & other times partly loaded-followed by another bb = 2 bb's at times) So I'd pay close attention to the whole hop, bucking, barrel bollox you assembled (another idea is to leave stock barrel/hop 100% as is, build new unit and if all goes to shit then test with old barrel/hop combo still intact to diagnose where issue lies) NOZZLE - ergh you did check/compare stock to new version length ??? coz if you used a nozzle too long you will struggle to feed (and too short loses seal/power at bucking lips) me thinks it is likely hop/bucking related as some buckings in some hops really pinch and create a tight bb entry point for bb's to pass through and yes even a mildly too tight bucking lip will restrict/impede feeding (and is common issue if not checked with attention to detail when "upgrading" shit) nozzle length is important too, if using the wrong length of nozzle delay clip can help, but some are better than others in assisting nozzle retraction the "delay" thing is a bit of a myth, in the way if you draw a nozzle back for longer but only has 5.5mm clearance it won't allow a 5.95mm bb to feed (so ultra long delay clips do fuck all if nozzle too long/tappet fin worn etc...) here is a long delay clip... if you use a nozzle too long you will still have feed issues no matter what (and tight bucking lips/catching will still remain) if you use a delay clip that is toooooo long, you will need to trim tappet fin in higher speed builds but that is getting into timings n shit, point being it is about nozzle retraction than duration it is drawn back (DSG builds for example have fuck all delay & can't fit delay clips, a sleeve is only real option for DSG's) so the actual "delay" part is a bit of a myth (imho) it is about ensuring you get the CORRECT nozzle retracting as much as possible to allow ample space for bb to slip past & feed (with a decent mag) but ensuring this, will improve feeding even on mags with weaker spring tension in modest snappy guns too best std delayers are these types... https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/gears/zci-gear-delayer bit of wafer thin extra material to retract nozzle a whisker further but check in case tappet bottoms out on cylinder head at full 101% retraction but best delayer type, might need a bit of work on some sectors but is best type imho slapping shit together though in one go rarely goes perfectly as planned so you need to go back check & investigate where issue is (hop/bucking I reckon could be prime suspect)

Deffo sounds like a bit COL related is this gun new ??? or s/hand with worn alloy COL ??? Sounds worn or mix/match of switch/trolley bits not operating 101% efficiently some trolleys have a considerable longer/shorter copper contact lug/point which as @Adolf Hamster said can make contact with switch "prongs" before COL can get a chance to pop the trolley also a worn or low rising COL on a high trigger sear will pop late or sometimes struggle to pop trolley now run it on 11.1v where you are into say 20+ on std motor, worn/poor switch/COL efficiency then yeah you are going to get some funny weird results when gun doing shit you don't expect if it is new - that is crap if s/hand then COL/trolley parts need a little investigation to resolve this issue I reckon deffo prongs/trolley are making contact before trolley/COL can pop and perhaps struggling to pop quickly/efficiently other times from worn COL and/or high sear I mean yeah you can be getting overspin @ 30rps but as it isn't popping on slight trigger pull on semi points to what AH said V3 box ??? looks like std g36 selector type plate, reg SHS v3 COL, v3 switch etc... but somehow wear or incompatibility/efficiency issue has come into effect in operation hence me asking is gun new or s/hand ??? (& rof you are seeing etc...) but wanked trolley/COL looks likely if you want to run it with some snap

I assume 2 things... I hope you fixed the sorbo pad FIRST, then the more robust rubber pad on top (else the sorbo will shred to bits very quickly) If you are going to short stroke - you might need a metal rack or part metal rack piston (still plastic, but teeth should be say half metal at least for SS-ing) also that white piston appears to be plastic teeth... I hope you have it part metal with the last few teeth or a 50/50 mix coz you will need the final tooth that releases to be of metal than plastic it will work - but the last tooth or two should be metal to ensure durability long term

And just now 7:00am TWG announce last push for 10% discount #WINTER10 NB: if a gun has " NEW " in the description/pic the code does NOT WORK on it it seems (even if they have had the item in stock for fucking weeks - if it says NEW it may not work) eg: M904G - yup 10% off but M904E - nope no discount even though it was stocked before BF 15% offer (was thinking of buying the stock tube version £112 x .85 discount = £95 back then but thought nah... gotta draw the line as I'm out of hiding spaces now) Watch what you order - in case it has NEW in description and order in next 24/48 hrs as this thread originally stated as always be mindful of what/where you order from... US/Japan have nearly always been stopped by Customs imho Ordering from China late Jan (if it is awaiting stock) or early Feb can get hit by Chinese New Year (12th Feb I think) if the China crap is still in far east come then - you are gonna be in for a wait It's Christmas - the whole world is going nutz after a fucking crazy 2020 The MSM are going full throttle with the world is ending come 01/01/2021 & Brexit then in the next story... Shoppers are asked not to panic buy as no deal fear starts to spread... Ho Ho fucking Ho

which is why I said... Whitehall TRIES to influence the politicians there are some senior civil servants who strongly advise senior politicians (and then are very uncooperative if the politician scoff their advice) Some may argue that is what Whitehall is there for - to some extent is true The point being is that many of these senior civil servants remain in their position whilst the politicians move on/take the fall at ballot box (sometimes as a casualty of Whitehall's advice/action) Not saying Whitehall runs the government... but it certainly advises or helps steer the ship a little more than people believe