Sitting Duck

A seperate mosfet is same install as all others - end of only exceptions are going to be internal types like spectre ascu or poxy ares/G&G etu malarky tbh you probably best start a new thread, me personally I'd ease up on juice if gun is often double firing firstly that is likely to getting close PE if firing 2 shots on semi very often a decent burst on auto may strip your piston or smash your gears to f*ck using an AB to counterbalance a gun not fully prepared for high rof/response is not wise imho Also depending on rof - which you do not state rof or lipo or gearing/motor etc..... plus if she is double firing I do not wish to know in case by sustained auto she craps out - 1 minor jam can cause havoc even well built high speed builds As you approach 40rps the old school trigger system can also start to show its age as the mechanical raising of cut off lever to release sprung trolley may not always work 101% flawlessly every time - there is a limit to ye olde trigger switch setup - hence the arrival of non-mechanical switching mosfet/switch units like BTC ASCU etc... for the really mental speed/response freaks out there. Yes I know plenty use AB mosfets - nowt wrong with that, but a little overspin is fine do not confuse overspin with nozzle being retracted - that is normal overspin to me is when piston is say getting piston half retracted or seen in rear box window if gearbox has window double firing though is way too much overspin - probably hitting 30rps+ most likely on 11.1v also with that much overspin that she is cycling twice by either running that fast or on a light spring you "may" still get some overspin even with AB (I said may coz depends a lot on motor's torque if it can slow/stop THAT quickly in reverse polarity against speed it was travelling at) If your gun is double firing on semi very often and you propose to remedy this by AB fet then me personally sounds like using using a m120 to get around a bad seal that fires at say 270fps on m100 spring but a mosfet is a mosfet really - 2 ways to wire in, 2 wire mosfet install = supply/signal wire usually done with dedicated wire or rewiring the gun or 1 wire install usually when using most of existing wiring in gun, 2 posi wires on same switch contact & other contact is the signal wire back to mosfet That is it really - 2 ways to wire them in - either/or depending if rewiring gun or not is why people use this or that method mainly

did you add a set of hens teeth to your basket also ??? way above my humble nooby league - but best wishes all the same sir

WTF - looks like somebody nicked/scrapped the TARDIS or something and selling a load of spare bits on fleabay The Doctor is gonna do his crunch when he finds that bastid Derek the Dalek

Spidey kicks all their ar$es but DeadPool still comes out on top

or this thread could be changed to: What Safety rating and mathematical formula have you just worked out........ kind of kidding chaps - yes important eye-pro subject and enlightening to how short the F rating falls in joules or crown jewels (yes way short of a 500fps sniper and also said check for side protection/covering too) very good to bring this to everybody's attention all the same - I've learnt some more stuff too But back on topic - My JG G3 arrived yesterday with some bits n bobs & better G&G bb's hopefully Some R-Hop material - cheers proffink some scalpel blades/holder for next Hop project to balls up yup think that is about it - can't be ar$ed to up pics - you know what it all looks like blah blah blah going easy atm - just can't do with agro and keep tripping over the crap I got even though I can't seem to locate something I know I got ffs Oh well better order a new bit as I'll be f*cked if I can find that sod in all my piles of crap......

Think the more subtle but still important point Lozart is trying to make..... Bolle make some kick ar$e eye pro that passes way more than a bb stress test: http://www.screwfix.com/p/bolle-atom-safety-goggles/4516f#product_additional_details_container (however the side protection is not up to such high impact me thinks but still...) HOWEVER - just coz Bolle make stuff the above and many many more goggles for all areas etc.... DO NOT THINK ALL BOLLE STUFF IS THE SAME EYE PRO PROTECTION LEVEL Ski goggles and other stuff is not capable of withstanding sniper impact - well you might look good but that might change if shot http://www.ekosport.co.uk/bolle-carve-crystal-smoke-citrus-gun-15-p-9-2974.html?gclid=CNOqoI7tz8wCFSsq0wodrRYFrw so be very careful when buying eye pro and look for proper protection and ratings if possible yes shoot test but if rated to EN166 you should not need to test it really look around at proper safety eye-pro - you don't need to spend to much to be safe but maybe choose a safe pair with some style or look like a scuba diver or lab technition

Somehow a JG094 fell into my basket at GunFire "don't how that happened" is the line I'm gonna use when missus does her nut The line - "coz I wanted one" v "ffs enough is enough" - were racing through my head & "coz I wanted..." won this time just wanted to see what the MP5's big bro is all about I guess even though I'm not a great fan of front wired guns I couldn't resist no more I gotta stop or get help for this costly addiction.... Oh leave off - time I pay a shrink I could of bought some more guns say the little voices in my head (yeah but I'm the one that gets all the crap from 'er indoors - them voices are nowhere to be found when I getting it in the neck once again)

That is just cruel using ya dog to zero ya sights - poor little pup got some welts on his head did he kick ya ar$e on xbox one or something ??? Now get your gun off HIS bed

Think he is a f*cking octopus or something..... or Doc Ock has taken up airsoft...

yikes them Satan's ain't cheap, no doubt very nice but a tad too much for my toy guns for most builds - even UK higher speed/stress ones I think £30 will get you a decent motor yes some like Lonex and ASG motors but I can get nearly 2 BD160's for that and those still kick ar$e in a dsg or ssg (do not get BD120 = ferrite, or don't get m140 = slow neodym, BD160 = crazy bastid motors)

What's that heatshrink instead of ptfe ?? clever stuff if it is thin enough not to restrict fitting hop unit in outer might try that next time as I just bought some clear heatshrink in different diameters just thought sod keep buy a bit of red then a bit of black - sod it buy clear and be done with it instead

Big Dragon M160 is one hell of a motor I often use or a shs torque (shs speed on lower stress builds) it is a bit faster than shs torque nearly as quick as a shs speed motor but similar grunt to a high torque mofo Hopefully it might be a picky motor rather than the ascu itself not that I've used any units but think many rate Spectre's over acsu - still seen the odd problem on spectre's

Think I saw you putting this mofo together very carefully on - ahem Z1 cough splutter..... - a lot of high quality in there sir, looks da bollox and I'm sure she performs every bit as good as she looks

It isn't the look of the FireHawk but friggin' noise of the f*cker that makes it a head turner But it gets on ya own nerves in a echo cqb environment Not a bad gun for close cqb The FFR would be nice but ETU let's it down Short Raider might be a good stop gap Or as a good all rounder the CM18 is damn sexy To be honest G&G or ICS starters to mid range Oh for what it's worth, the 30k Krytac is nice but there are better motors out there - might be flogging mine if anyone wants one... Go for a gun YOU like, it is your money As for mods, it is up to you but to me if you want a longer barrel gun, then buy one rather than ruin stubby's with a stfu barrel/suppressor that just looks wrong Oh and please ffs don't get the HC05 DSG Firehawk No semi crap performance for DSG and won't be able to use it for cqb if semi only coz you only got full auto Trust me - do not get one, think most places have stopped selling these models coz they are not ideal guns for cqb Last one I got for £100 coz for cqb it is about as much use as an ashtray on a motorbike !!!! (luv BrickTop's dialogue) ps - the guy in the vid is a nob what he did to the FH - fixed stubby M4 stock is really all you need and maybe another flash hider or stubby suppresor if the thing gets on ya nerves... To pi$$ball about like the guy did - ruined it and waste of time/money but that is just my take on it

right - I thought there was a shim or two on the other half of the box now what you need to do is remove cylinder and tappet plate and start to check the shimming.... http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/29767-hd-video-tutorial-bevel-to-pinion-for-aegs-gears-complete-guide-to-perfect-shimming/ I would try to leave the gears as they are in the left side of the box where the gears are sitting at present That way the rough bevel gear height "should" remain roughly intact them extra shims may need to simply go on top of the gears to finish the spacing out of gears.... bolt the box up and check that gears spin freely and slight movement side to side watch video and pay attention.... you shouldn't need to remove the gears and if you do ensure the shims go back as they are or you are gonna make the shimming & refitting harder shimming is very important and hopefully you only need to space out the top of gears and ensure they spin ok you don't shim too tight - aprox 0.5mm side to side movement and smooth running of gears spinning (ya finger in where cylinder window was and flick the gears.....) hopefully the gears can be stacked or shimmed back to roughly what they was like best of luck

Hmmmm - thought they were shims at first glance but unsure if they are washers that belong on the 4 small top bolts of gearbox The empty half of gearbox appears to have "shims" on the 2 lower of the 3 blue circled bushings these go on the spur and sector gears and is "probably" about right-ish for a basic shim job (at first I thought the sector didn't have any shims so the red items must belong on the sector perhaps) BUT - it appears on the other half of gearbox there are shims that belong on top of the 2 upper gears so I'm a bit stumped at the items that look like washers (thicker) than shims (thinner) I'm guessing the 4 top screws might have had washers if they were not countersunk like other longer screws in gearbox if this is a bit confusing I suggest you have a look here: http://forums.zeroin.co.uk/showthread.php?64187-A-technical-guide-thread-VERY-picture-heavy (yes it is zero one but a bit of breakdown of what a v2 box looks like and how it is assembled with lots of pics) ps - yes #9 & #10 are STILL labelled incorrectly ffs don't they correct it when it was pointed out ages ago ffs #9 is the SECTOR not the bevel gear #10 is the BEVEL not the sector gear jeeez - sorry for slight inaccuracy, otherwise it shows a good deal of what is inside a v2 gearbox

what is she firing at atm ??? not being funny but if your gun is that katana with 13 teeth sector m100 won't be enough m110 - might be getting you to about 325 perhaps on average if your sector/piston - though piston doesn't need to shortstroked usually but if on average 3 teeth have come off then you are looking at a m115-ish spring to equate to about 375-380 minus 45 (3 x 15fps) = 330/340-ish you don't need to do anything really if your gun is hitting say 320-330 - even with the spring change system - 20 or 30 fps is nothing use 0.25's should help improve accuracy - a 9.6v if using nimah and that is about it could look at motor change at some point and if/when it drops then can look at opening her up for a few basic tweaks but that gun should be fine as it is - it is no cheapy starter gun and tbh you or me for that matter could very easily make it worse So she what she fires at and try to resist the temptation to tweak stuff you don't need to

you do love them L85's don't ya - quality Blitish Gun made in China ??? Good on ya - like to see other guns rather than the M4 Fords of Airsoft prefer to get my ar$e handed to me by something unique rather than that little 12yr old $hit with a JBBG that keeps owning me

NO NO NO NO NO is my gut feeling.... The low joules, the screwed together 2 halves receiver indicates a plastic bespoke v2 box that will shred ok it has peq box - silly launcher n wotnot but tbh - NO NO NO NO NO even for parts.... They had a spartac AK with plastic cover for 100 Euro reduced to 57 Euro last month which f*ck me I was tempted to get coz worth that in bits @ £45 but had to resist even at 57 Euro or £45 !!!! 100 Euro I would say G36c (JG I think over a cyma) AK - cyma 028 or 31 or something - avoid the spartac or cyma 5xx ak's as plastic cover (well you could get it at a push if replacing with cover with ris/sights at some stage) Cyma 515 - plastic receiver but good internals or something like that but receiver is a bit cheap for abusive skirmishing in long term they are the cheapy guns I would say consider if you are a real tight budget There are offers on G3 type guns - ergh uhmm about getting one with a v2 box in there but think it is not much different really to a G36c Which unless you gotta have to have something different - think the 3 options above are perhaps the best cheapo options to consider Shame coz I keep falling in & out of love with G3 SAS folding stock - nah G36 - nah G3 - nah G36.....

In a word...... DON'T you got a nice gun so go easy on it tuning or go faster stripes/neon lights underneath or just general pimping up ya gun inside is NOT EASY !!!! The sound advice is keep it to a rof in the 20's - honestly reason - it will break quicker - fact the mags that work ok very likely likely won't feed at silly higher speeds more speed on higher springs to avoid PE will generate more heat and wear more volts/amp/current or I just use the general term - juice, more juice will melt your trigger contacts As a rough guide to moderate boost.... 7.4v lipo to 9.6v without a mosfet on stock motor you can swap the motor to a shs torque but for trigger contacts keep her to 7.4v or 9.6v absolute max Don't use shs torque with 11.1v lipo - without a mosfet at some stage... I would run the gun for a while trying to get a rof of up to 20rps - that is plenty you won't have any real problem, the gun will last longer and mags will feed ok To anybody thinking of going much faster the gun WILL wear quicker, mags misfeed plus a jammed bb running at higher speeds can cause major failure everything inside the box has to run so damn smoothly and a lot of experience is required to even get close to this (which I have so much to learn) my own recent rebuild I am going to probably drop from 30+ on 7.4v to about 25-26 using a shs torque as it just seems to mesh better with gears (plus hoping the mid 20's will mean it should last a bit longer - but I'm still not 101% happy with it even after spending a lot of time on her) Trust me - as an expert in breaking more guns than I have fixed/bodged - Go very easy and read up a bloody lot You have a nice gun that wasn't a cheap Combat Machine or something - so don't f*ck it all up by trying to take the pi$$ like I have done so many many times

luckily it should be a quick spring change..... ooops - might not have the Spec Arms spring change system I pictured..... (my bad) but it has one anyway it seems: http://gunfire.pl/product-eng-1152200031-Specna-Arms-SA-B02-carbine-replica.html shs m100 or Element m105 is my guess for what it is worth - welcome to forum sir (could of asked Gunfire to downgrade it for you anyway for free but lucky with quick spring change I guess)

SHS Torque or SHS/Rocket Airsoft Torque is a good all rounder see ak2m4.co.uk Think your gun might be short stroked a bit but lacking a mosfet but likely running on about a m110 to m115 atm if on 13 teeth sector: taken from TWG... A mosfet would be a wise upgrade at some point also then run what you like battery wise