Sitting Duck

That is "likely" PME Premature Engagement gun cycling too fast, sector attempts to engage the piston before it has fully returned and crunches into the rack on the 3rd/4th tooth etc... Plastic teeth being weaker start to strip, it happens once or twice, it gets worse = f*cked If this happens on a full metal rack piston then metal gears/rack tear themselves off (something has to give/fail in the end) It can also happen with a jammed BB, so the newbie mistake is to keep firing on auto to clear it even mag out - full auto - CRUNCH The jammed BB has plugged the compression like a syringe and this slows the piston's return = PME or something just failed, pear shape tits up and crunch - stuff happens but usually that looks like possible PME likely cycling too quick or jammed BB or both Change piston to metal rack Cyma, buy new o-ring could buy new cylinder head, but 7 or 8 wraps of ptfe works well if done neatly leave the gears, maybe buy a SHS HT motor but NOT a high speed motor that'll do for internals clean barrel, use decent bb's - really makes a difference & prevents jams from egg shaped bb's (or big seams on cheapo bb's causing jams in tbb/bucking) if you want zci hop, maple leaf bucking & red nub barrel should be a half decent tight bore one

Well I was gonna post Obi dropping down to say Hello there to respond & drop into this thread... but for Wu-Flu stuff this came along instead... Greetings anyway - good budget starters btw A SHS piston is one of the best all round pistons BUT they can be a bit tight in numerous boxes & "bind" or stick/snag as they retract, often binding especially near back of box Generally SHS pistons & gear sets can be a bit chunky, robust but chunky or tight fit in some boxes - not a massive biggy but might need a bit of work/modding or more planning in some boxes (in G&G boxes, they have a bit more room & SHS pistons do not bind) In Cyma/JG boxes I have found SHS pistons bind a little SHS pistons - if you go for one just go for the std blue full metal rack one avoid the lightened ones and forget the 3 or 7 steel teeth ones as the plastic teeth on those are like DairyLea For hassle free stuff - go for the Cyma metal piston... https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/pistons/cyma-15-tooth-reinforced-piston that'll go in no problem You'll need to swap over the piston head AND the alloy spacer or buy the complete version... https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/pistons/cyma-15-tooth-reinforced-piston-piston-head I'd also buy an o-ring or two as Cyma o-ring is meehhhhhh change o-ring and the compression really improves another thing is the loose as f**k cylinder head yes you can use ptfe tape bodge, but wrap it carefully & trim excess with scalpel you will need about about 7 wraps or maybe 8 - I shit you not it is a very loose cylinder head older models were white piston/cylinder head & clear tappet plate new models are now blue bits - but still loose as f**k cylinder head BUT still works with ptfe bodge - just quite a bit/lot required yes you could change more - but I'd avoid changing too much as it is your first go at things - so change only what you really need to why did piston fail - be careful about pushing the gun on 11.1v on a faster motor if you go too fast above 20~25rps then you can hit PME not a big problem on plastic piston - it will break first as weak point But on full metal rack, then no weak point so gears & metal rack will go crunch (more mess if PME takes place) Hopefully the plastic piston just failed, but Cyma stuff the Cyma plastic piston - like JG std plastic pistons are fairly robust unless you was extremely unlucky or took the piss the box is quick change spring - so that will help or assist in a straight forward repair (less likely of bits exploding as you open a std no QC gearbox for first time) best of luck - just replace the bits, new o-ring too, bit of grease etc.. SORTED

Nick Nack - Golden gun etc...

Bit of a cunt it is all a bit of a shame it is a clickbait video bit of sponsorship perhaps... https://www.switairsoft.com/product-page/kwa-m11a1 links to his channel/games at times he plays well has to put up with others not calling hits etc... (in longer clip - but marshal says he would of hosed them, yeah but there are degrees of hosing) but then he creates a much shorter clip to trigger the haters but still gets the clicks on YT he could have made a better video to demonstrate the gun but chose to make one that triggers people - thus increasing his clicks/views etc... at times we have all done dick things - hand on heart but to make video of it for clicks n stuff - well that is quite sad tbh

Whoa whoa whoa... was there a handbag fight & nobody invited me ??? now I'M PISSED - ya toxic cows

Just don't store it primed & ready for use, left in ya bag after game day (yeah if you can remember those days) One of mine was left primed for months (totally forgot about it) when I went to use it, it had stuck & failed to to go BOOOOM after 5~7 secs poured/squirted loads of WD40 & silicone in it but never worked 101% after it got stuck so avoid being forgetful & leaving it primed in ya bag ready to use They do a nice impact one "Dominator" that works on soft-ish ground better than O-Shi-Boom but more bulky than O-Shi-Boom & others Adapters for different blanks can be bought - but watch for revised adapters for older Dynatex (I bought wrong ones - in the end made up a sleeve to use Cheddites .209 in my 9mm BFG) soz for waffle - just avoid leaving it primed is the real message

just a dick move for going to Zero in forums yes I know we all browse other sites at times but it has a reputation of a sort where as AF-UK has less dicks - to which I am one Happy Easter & Fathers Day to Airsoft Dads...

by the time dust settles - then you'll have Chinese New Year in Feb ps - cheers Pete, hop unit & bits, nubs & Cut Off Levers arrived Sunday should see alright for a while

except gab is nightmare just recently as the purge intensifies and gab is swamped by massive traffic increase think SM wants people to comply and all think the exact same way (echo chamber) peace & free speech to all

I'm going to take a WILD stabby guess it is a SRC... likely a 2 piece hop unit and possibly plastic receiver with loops... qwirky old old school stuff - not bad starter for year 2010 but £70~£100 Cyma M4's now piss all over it Carbine - front wired, 2 piece hop, oldie loop receiver not worth a great deal - even if fully functional Dust cover looks lop-sided in pic, cosmetic, drop down dust cover on mid range sportsline SRC's (on "some" ultra cheap Dragon SRC's, they were sprung/pull down like G&G CM Carbine/Raiders & on "some" Dragon's they had a plastic gearbox box (gen 1 perhaps) But then "some" other Dragon's had drop down dust cover & metal v2 (gen 2 I guess) gearbox SRC really mix up their stuff, though I expect yours is not a Dragon cheapy SRC BUT likely to be a gen 2 metal v2 box with SRC green plastic 6mm bushings perhaps and perhaps a plastic loop receiver (think the so called Gen 3's were metal receiver & better gearbox with metal bushing/bearings) Some vids if you are thinking of messing with a SRC... 6mm green bushing box (rear wired - yours is front wired) here is what your gun "might" be & teardown of it loopy receiver & maybe metal bearing/bushings not plastic bushings (still likely alloy dairylea sector gear though) YES - it is advisable to remove motor grip completely before seperating "looped" receiver & sliding apart including sliding box out too (saves them loops snapping off, if you try to open like ICS split gearbox M4) might be metal one piece hop unit, but SRC & JG kept ye olde 2 piece hop for a while in some of their cheap~mid range guns (it really is a bit of lottery what spec some SRC's are - they are a mixed bag around 2015) it could be a G&G but I'm leaning towards most likely a plastic SRC in that puke green likely bought from a place with " BB " in its name (coz I bought one (or two) from there but in black/orange in 2014) the bloke is a legend - at selling shit plinkers to noobs like moi missing fire selector - well there isn't one on the side you shown it is not ambi fire selector, only on one side as first vid shows like most M4's If you can find a battery/power source & test it maybe consider tearing it apart if you wish or shove it up for say £30 or something like somebody suggested as a boneyard 2-tone SRC - Shiny Rainbow Company (Taiwan) weren't bad back in the day but have lost ground as cheap Cyma's have improved their cheap as chips starter guns SRC - Dragon - BullDog M4's are basically same/similar SRC's of one description they still do some better mid range models but generally SRC's are not that popular now (£100~£150 can get you a pretty decent starter these days) in its day it was a pretty decent starter - but even running I don't see it being worth much more than £50 s/hand best of luck

list: https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/hop-up-buckings-nubs/maple-leaf-macaron-60-aeg & https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/hop-up-buckings-nubs/omega-nub-soft-70-gear-parts & maybe: https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/hop-up-chambers/zci-rotary-hopup-chamber-plastic-m4 Now you are using 11.1v on 12:1 with a 28~30k motor so estimate rps @ say 25rps on 7.4v which I advise you to try first to get shit running OK on 11.1v you will likely be hitting 38/39 rps, though battery might only get to 35rps - still a bit too damn quick build a new hop/bucking/barrel to swap in/out the bearings in the piston - you used threadlock I hope as they have a habit of coming adrift (no matter how damn tight you tighten the screw up) it's the bearings, as they move & transmit impact/vibration it just starts to undo & crunches up in cylinder bearing doesn't or shouldn't sit inside the spring as such, there is like a 15mm washer/race with a collar holding it in place - that collar on far right sits just inside spring... you would probably need to mod the tappet a bit for a snappy gun cycling quickly... **** though I'd trim it not quite as much as I did - somewhere in between the two above **** I'd still run it on 7.4v first to iron most issues out first, then see if tappet needs more trimming or higher tension spring to return more quickly the ONE tooth you took off release isn't THAT bad, compensated by slight trimming of fin from full tappet fin however I don't know if the nozzle is correct length or if tappet is 101% suited... ensure the rails are smooth inside box... DON'T GO NUTZ WITH EMERY PAPER !!! stuff like cleaning internals with toothbrush & any smoothing of piston rails & tappet rails - use a really OLD kitchen scourer (basically worn away to shit, only mildly abrasive - clean/smooth surface but not wear it away something just to smooth the surfaces without wearing it away to bits, really knacked scourer works well) something like that will do to clean up rails n channels n shit (test for any burrs & then, only then lightly sand any real burrs in that exact area) Ensure the tappet glides smoothly back n forth - all clean up front of box, no crap/shit etc... SHS tappets are a bit chunky up front, perhaps see if the front can be sanded a little to ensure nozzle seals well (they can be a little untrue, not quite perfect 90 degrees, drop in cup of hot water for a min or so then straighten - carefully & should be more true 90 degree) an area to watch for is the tappet fin hitting the sector axle that can impede it returning fully some axles are more chunky than others & might need to use a needle file to CAREFULLY file the EXACT area on fin so it no longer hits/impedes the tappet returning 101% as the std Cyma one had a chunky bit cut out to miss the axle... that is the stock CYMA fin untouched btw (they have extra material inside box hence the modding of SHS tappet up front) all this shit is something you have to investigate after learning what a cnut these toy guns can be Other stuff like your sector could be shimmed a bit high and possibly rubbing on tappet plate that can rub/impede its effective operation... (see if the unsprung tappet slips back n forth without moving sector gear (bevel/step removed) or rotate sector through cylinder area & see if it drags the tappet back with it if rubbing basically you have to double/triple check EVERYTHING as various bits n bobs do NOT work perfectly the TM Compatible bollox is more like TM Compatible-ish at the best of times some shit works OK & other stuff is only gonna make matters worse hence numerous bits may need a minor mod every part MUST be checked & compared with the old part(s) it replaces very very closely often check sector/tappet/cylinder operation in top half of box (saves messing with wiring in lower half but less play/wobble in top half of box when checking how it all glides) with delayer BUT WATCH FOR TOO MUCH RETRACTION or bottoming out on cylinder head... WAY WAY TOO MUCH INFO STUFF - but more to show the checking of shit in top half of box it is all loads & loads of checking shit - mostly not needed as it will all pass the checks OK but if you change LOTS like you have you really need to check LOADS of things - well EVERYTHING so it all operates perfectly and smoothly everywhere There is other stuff like if you tighten the stock M5 bolt up TOO MUCH it can pull the box back and in turn tilt the box upwards at front slightly, which when tilted up can rub on hop unit as it enters back/forth Normally this happens on metal receivers than plastic ones as plastic receivers do allow a bit of flex so it doesn't pull the box back/up The nozzle "shoulder" shouldn't be too snug fit into the hop unit the red SHS nozzle for example is a bit snug entering brand new G&G hop units so can impede the whole shit bollox operation of chambering & sealing effectively (if using another hop or worn in G&G hop unit the nozzle moves freely back n forth at speed everytime) again might not apply to your gun, but just some examples of where & how these poxy guns can be such cnuts

congrats group 6879 or 6881 ??? I'd join the group but not fluent in Polish join gab, find a group you align with ignore the nutter trolls, block/mute them play nicely chaps it is not the full on Alex Jones KKK Nazi nutters that MSM / Wiki says it is it is just full on free speech & yes there are nutters on there but if your feelings are very fragile then stay on FB/Twitter etc... Also gab does a browser called Dissenter which is pretty good alternative to Chrome and running Linux Mint + Dissenter on a couple of PC's which runs quick too There are some good alternatives out there chaps

How do you enable/disable AB on the 904G ??? I didn't think you could disable it - it was on by default like G&G ETU & others EDIT - you changed the 904G out for a Perun ??? FFS - why buy the 904G & completely gut it why not buy almost any M4 ??? You likely got overspin coz optical sensor didn't pick up the teeth or grease on sensors Also with the optical mosfets you can't just bench test them like normal boxes... They need to be fitted into receiver or at least cover up areas like M4 pin as light can enter & fuck with sensors & shit confusing the module You should have cut 3 teeth off the pickup side imho (if you was removing say 4 or 5 then yeah take a tooth off release perhaps) Anyway.... Trim the tappet fin a LITTLE bit to allow tappet/nozzle to release a tooth earlier (on very snappy high speed builds - you should consider it anyway, say trim 3 or 4mm off) sort of in between a full tappet fin & a DSG tappet fin perhaps However - the 904G isn't a screamer out of box - even on 11.1v What battery are using 7.4v or 11.1v ??? say 24rps on 7.4v & 37rps on 11.1v - however the 904g fancy mosfet skims some of this off so you could be looking at 20 & 30rps aprox Now you used a SHS piston... Did you check this for binding - if it falls easily in the box ??? coz these pistons - though very good do tend to bind/drag on numerous boxes... JG, Cyma's, APS... lightened SHS stuck, not falling in a APS box, they can bind especially more so at the back of box... your piston could be binding , slowing its return, losing power & increasing risk of PME SHS's don't bind in G&G boxes - but unsure if they bind in DE boxes without a little mod Has piston got bearing/spacer inside or not ??? any spacing inside or no spacing alters the spring's compression power each tooth is 3mm pitch, so bearings = aprox 5mm or 1.5 teeth compression on retraction if you take a m120, SS 3 teeth = aprox 45 fps drop (each tooth is about 15fps ~ 16.4fps or m05) if you remove bearing or 5mm spacer = 24fps drop if you remove chunky 9mm alloy spacer = 45fps drop again on spring power if you correct AoE you lose say 10~15 fps as you shorten the max stroke (depending how you correct) Now offset against some of all this - is if you get nigh perfect seals for compression so could claw back say 30fps or so... the other issue if you have poor seal with nozzle/bucking lips (I would not have changed bucking/hop stuff until you test on established old bucking/barrel first (you change way too much in one go - it can be harder to pinpoint exact issue or if you have multiple issues going on at once) maths, suggestions & bollocks aside, you need to go back and check EVERYTHING very very closely

Well this thread has gone to shit x 10 so wtf... the thing about the photo's that they are snapshots in time to which others push the agenda that MUST indicate this... Not getting into Corbyn/IRA stuff - people can make their own minds up edit, soz but whilst on imgur I had this in my gallery which is still amusing.... however it is bad enough when people use genuine snapshots in time then push their own interpretation/narrative Yet the Social Media / Fake-Book BS where people push completely faked pictures is even worse A lie can travel halfway around the world while the truth is getting its pants/shoes on... except it was an old fake photoshopped picture... original article... https://www.realwire.com/releases/volkswagen-fixed-it-for-jim and another example... Then get into a row/discussion with people & they'll post pics of the sick nonse with Tory PM's - ergh don't go there m8, or I'll respond with pics with: Wilson, Callaghan, Blair, Brown etc... & advise them to just don't go there as I can post far more damning political stuff than just a simply pic (they usually get the message - but coz I pissed on their parade a little I get trolled on FB etc.. suffice to say due to complaints I was suspended during the run up to 2017 GE & then they demanded photo verification etc... to continue using their service) Meanwhile Trump has his Twitter account now locked until Biden takes over (even though he called for them to peacefully go home) Shelia Fogarty says SHOOT THEM & then a woman is shot & dies... the whole world has gone completely fucking nutz

Meanwhile in 'merica it's all kicking off... Storm Congress, reports of shots fired, One woman injured & a guy is in critical condition, Guy was shoved down the steps... Live feeds were interrupted - please stand by.... You can just feel the love

The issue that Labour pledged/promised a referendum on the European Constituion which later became the Lisbon Treaty - basically the Constitution in a new cover pg 84 of Labour's 2005 manifesto clearly stated they would put it to the people (remember Labour's BS that their manifesto is a contract with the people) without going into Ireland holding a referendum on Nice & Lisbon then asking the people to vote again when they first rejected both of them Blair KNEW what was coming and stepped down in July 2007 where the unchallenged Brown was appointed (without any challengers) as PM who later that year signed the Lisbon 4 hours after most leaders & media had left and then flat out refused a referendum that was promised in their own manifesto Most of Labour MP's voted to refuse holding a referendum LibDem's stuck their heads in the sand - though 13 voted in favour of holding one (see Nick Clegg's referendum on Europe leaflet) Even the 6 x SNP MP's backed a referendum (how times change) Conservatives didn't have the votes/support (even if all the LibDem's sided with them instead of abstaining) So Labour ratified the Treaty of Lisbon without holding a referendum as in their 2005 manifesto/contract with the people Politicians - they're all lying hypercritical cnuts at the end of the day NB - this is not to derail this thread as such (what has happened has happened) more to provide a little history on some the crap that lead us to where we are now I don't wish to start up or continue Brexit stuff about a referendum blah x3 but just some of what took place that perhaps lead to the referendum being held peace

Social Media like FaceBook etc... have purged so much stuff that they have ran out of things to complain about So much so, with each stage of purging they have less & less to be fully triggered about, so they have only the very very very slightly off-subject thinkers outside of the box left Suffice to say, just starting to question the FB belief or narrative has resulted in restrictions so much so it is just one big echo chamber & even then the people within that chamber are starting to question at times, where has those hateful opposition users gone ??? (not hateful at all, just with a different opinion to some others that you perceive as hate when in reality, the real vitriol is coming from their side towards others in fact) Nowadays - you don't even get the rows as the echo chamber grew & grew from the purges No longer on FB for nearly 2 years, as they demanded I upload photo, more info, drivers license to prove my identity - FUCK OFF, so I get dox by nutters, my info sold/hacked - yeah bollox miss checking in on some friends & certain pages like AK2M4, but fuck FaceBook etc...

Yeah possibly 22rps The calculation is a little under for good torque motors, and a smidge over for much faster motors at times... (I did say it was a rough ball park calculation) There are other factors like a motor's max efficiency, it's max possible speed - the 1.55 factor does not always apply, wiring, MOSFET used, battery... not all LiPo's perform the same, You can get a standard lame gun to hit near 18 - 19rps on 11.1v So yeah 22rps with 13:1 is achievable I concur

Think 22k will be alright if the Guarder Torque is somewhere between 18~22k that might do it 18k might just get him into 20's 22k should get him into mid twenties just over these figures could be squeezed a whisker more if everything was perfect (and I mean nigh on everything close to perfect, perhaps bearings or mix of bushing/bearings nigh on everything rolling ultra silky smooth, perfect motor height angle meshing, awesome airseals etc...) thick wiring etc... However a whisker off for std stock ETU wiring perhaps a bit more if ETU skims amp/rof and if build not close to 101% perfection, slightly stronger spring compensating for meh airseal or short barrel the rough calculation crap is just that - a rough ball park rof figure only that you could be hitting 10% less or only say 5% above it if very very very fortunate/walk on water (if people are a few rps shy of the figure - no biggy, it happens and only a rough estimation) ((if people manage to achieve a bit more - you lucky bastid))

often the mid-range G&G's come with a 25k motor if you're lucky the 25k IFRIT neodym or the 24/25k ferrite "Powerful Motor" using a 25k motor, 13:1 gears SS 3 teeth on m120 spring you can get say 18~19rps on 7.4v which on 11.1v will give you nigh on 30rps The Short Stroke 3 teeth would reduce overspin & reduce risk of PME at higher speeds If it is an ETU gun, then the ETU will cycle with some Active Breaking as well as fully complete cycle on semi The issue is though the reliability of the ETU mosfet - if blown replace with Perun ETU mosfet than G&G The ETU with moderate AB will lower overspin but at 30rps you sail close to risking PME (you may get away with it, but at 30+ rps, a slight jam/misfeed and you will very likely get PME) If you wasn't using stuff like ETU then at high twenties nudging 30rps on 11.1v the idea would be to use a lower 7.4v to fire it a few times on semi at 19rps to park it better then store the gun without spring compressed pre-cocked so to speak A ROUGH ROF CALCULATOR... for a 340~350 fps gun... motor speed in XX,000 rpm divided by actual gear ratio.... x10 25,000rpm = 25k 25 / 13.5 (13:1 gear ratio) = 1.851851852 multiply by 10 = 18.51851852 so you can achieve around 18.5rps with a 25k motor & 13:1 gears aprox on a 7.4v LiPo using a 11.1v LiPo you multiply the 7.4v figure by 1.55 (extra boost by extra cell) so 18.51851852 x 1.55 = 28.7037037 rps expected figure This is a ROUGH calculation if everything is built correctly, well shimmed and decent wiring deans etc... but does kinda roughly establish a very rough expected figure for a 340~350 fps gun with a 300mm barrel say (very short barrels require slightly heavier springs so will not follow or correlate to this quite so much and much longer barrels require full stroke so not able to short stroke to avoid PME so have some limits) But roughly works out within a few rps for most general builds on say a 300mm barrel or so Your BD M160 is say a 40k 14 tpa motor... 40k / 13.5 = 2.962962963, x10 = 29.62962963 rps on 7.4v then on 11.1v: 29.62962963 x 1.55 you was hitting 45.92592593 or 45/46 rps !!!! even if not hitting this figure, but only say 90% - it's still 40rps way too much you could just run it on 7.4v & hit 29.62962963 rps but the high speed M160 motor draws way too many amps (anything over a 30k rpm motor is going to run warmer drawing more amps & not efficient) The amp draw is a factor to consider as the higher it gets, the more heat & also your battery drains quicker, with high speed motors going nuts spraying you will need to change batteries before lunch on game days due to higher amps quickly depleting your LiPo As @Davegolf has just said - 25 rps is a sensible max limit many of us have learnt the hard way with a 25k Ifrit/Powerful G&G 13:1 you could achieve up to 29rps or maybe a bit less than max 29rps figure say around 26rps using std wire & a smidge less if motor has carbon build up/a bit used either a 30k motor on 7.4v, maybe 35k motor but it will run warm or a torquey 22k motor (22/13.5, x 10 = 16rps on 7.4v & 25rps on 11.1v) this very rough calculation crap might help plan your next build a little better (choosing the BD-M160, 13:1 on 11.1v was a big miscalculation if aiming for up to 30rps) lower your rps to 25rps if you can build/shim well or at least stick to the 30 figure and if you come out with say 26rps then be happy with it I'd advise you look into short stroking if you want to run as quick as possible to give you a little margin to avoid PME at higher speeds perhaps Take the time to plan it all a little bit better and you will get closer to the figure you aim for even in low 20's the gun is still snappy & responsive and a few rps once you get into the twenties well you hardly notice if a gun shoots at 23rps or 26rps say it is how well it cycles/shoots & sounds (and lasts) that really counts after that

Was it you or somebody else got a Big Dragon M140 cheap from AliExpress with coupons ??? Those are the safe decent motors the m160 is a 40k+ 14 tpa mofo with neodym the m120 is the same armature but with weak ferrite magnets both are shit choices - the m140 is like a 18tpa or something 24/25k rpm motor good all rounder hearing that AliExpress cheapo shipments are over where they slap a $2 toy on a £50 order to sail through customs now they are adding the VAT/Duty to order to pay on your behalf or something so getting very cheap motors from China & stuff may be over the pic of motors wasn't to brag, but to show I foolishly bought the wrong m160 motors from TinyWind/Airsoft Peak ages ago for like $16 with crazy coupons bought a number of m160's & 4 x m120's & only 2x m140's (fucking wish I knew better back then and just stocked up on m140's) The M120 is too weak & too quick & M160 is a bit too fast & warm running imho the m140 is the better of the 3 motors and advise people to play safe and go for m140 motor

Secondly... if you did this to a G&G SRS with ETU the ETU likely said fuck it as they are made from Dairylea at the best of times on a mild build What you attempted to do is create something with high amperage & on 11.1v higher Watts The cheese spread ETU mosfet said fuck this I'm off and the fuse blew eventually I had a FFR-A1 which this happened to and even when replacing the fuse it just kept blowing (the ETU unit in stock tube was fucked) Now your ETU might be OK, but you was certainly pushing your luck on a reg AEG and on a ETU... Think even US sites at say 400fps AEG with m120 would see PME risk start to creep in from say low to mid 30's and if done correctly with decent shimming, airseal etc... on a UK spec gun 13:1 m160 11.1v he is looking at 45rps just asking for trouble - even more so on an G&G ETU

First of all... Big Dragon M160 = very quick high speed motor + 13:1 + 11.1v etc... Are you fucking nuts ??? that setup is going to hit 45rps on 11.1v and likely has suffered PME etc... that setup at say 350fps does 29/30rps aprox on 7.4v So when using 11.1v expect 30rps x 1.55 = 45/46rps It may have been more sensible to use the M140 motor with 13:1 on 7.4v or M160 with std 18:1 gears on 7.4v LiPo's to get aroubd 24rps (ish) or nudging into the 20's there abouts BD-M160 is just too fast imho and draws too many amps so shit runs too quick and too warm (please FFS people stop buying the M160 motor - it is toooo fast - no really it is) Them M160's will not be used as is, but armature replaced with more sensible ones I mean yeah - you can use them on std 18:1's but still the amps are a bit higher along with more heat (and over time the extra heat just fucks the bearing at the end bell - they are just too fast/warm imho) But even on std gears you should get 22~24rps on 7.4v & 35/36rps on 11.1v with 18:1 gears way too quick for a std UK gun on say m100/105 spring at around 25rps it will start to double fire on semi and to combat this you can Short Stroke it to a point to reduce overspin even then - it may be OK up to say 30~35rps once short stroked but approaching the potential speed you have designed it may risk PME at 45rps (well I've still smashed a 13:1 setup SS 3 teeth on a beefy 11.1v hitting into the forties at 340fps) They are not a wise choice of motor - even on 7.4v and on 11.1v - well you are just asking for rebuilds and picking teeth out of your gearbox and many of us have learnt the hard way about super fast motors & shit Design a build with a 25k to 30k motor aprox with 13:1's get into 20's just with a m120 spring SS a few teeth run with that - or if you want some insane zest a low 11.1v will get you into low 30's if you done the build perfect it will last for a while, but M160 on 11.1v...

edit: TL-DR New Year Resolution, cut down on the waffle

agreed - but my point being that taking the 18.8 or near 19 amp auto draw as gospel is not the same as what a meter will report imho the figures they report are higher than meter and though as said they offer a reference point for THAT GUN the figures these mosfets report should not be taken as a figure to use in comparison to other builds 19 amps is like a 35k motor draw or where the bevel is being rammed into shell/bushing when in relation that build should be sitting at say 13 amp on a meter - so a 50% increase but rof is getting near the expected performance though he said he hit 16.7rps on 13:1/JG now dunno if he noted what the Leviathan dooberry reported for amp draw back then but the point of using a meter is so it can be benchmarked for all builds there is no urgent rush to get one right now though tbh the way these mosfets reports stuff I would look to get one so you can see the difference and make comparisons across all guns Titan'd or not Yes benchmark the gun based on the history of stuff you tried in it but still what that thing reports, can not be used when comparing what other guns say on a meter For this reason anybody saying the amps (according to Leviathan/Titan) are a bit high can not be taken as true reading when making comparisons/judgements of actual amperage even my meter could be out a little but I'd say close to what most people find the draw is on a meter I feel these dooberries do skim the juice a bit and add to amp draw though Mind you, I've only quickly tested the M904G and the amp draw was a bit high at 14.5a which on say 360fps, 18:1 lame motor (likely 18k rpm) I think is bit high mind you the AB is always on as piston stops asap even on 11.1v so with 12:1 maybe the reading of near 19 amp is not THAT high considering though I would like to run it through a meter to be sure what that reports these fancy mosfets do add amps imho, perhaps report stuff differently to meters and skim off a bit of juice too, offset by added features but still might see a bit more draw (and slight drain on battery) Not knocking them - just pointing stuff out *** arguing of my case/defense over *** rest of your post I fully concur with btw