Sitting Duck

well real firearms start from 1500fps for a pussy firearm but I know it is only a plastic bb with little mass but forget your dmr/sniper stuff and I truely believe that was what came out end got 2 pistols and the other started at 650fps, then 530fps then 400fps etc..... this one was second one I tested and was wondering if this would be strange at very start BLOOMIN' HECK i thought - but they both behaving atm 350 fps mark depending on bb's used but really think the chrono didn't lie coz other one was strange at first but not that crazy And probably won't kill at 1664fps but not gonna run a test to find out how much it hurts (can't anyway coz that was deffo a first time glitch is seems on both pistols) 2tone atm - but tempted to respray all black and call it after some massive dude on here what is that gun - this this is my bad ass black death co2 pistol

Has anybody else has some freaky fps stuff like the above ???

So we have different techniques or methods or findings that we go with based on our experiences nad what we find works best for us I admit I am am still learning - aren't we all though ??? But did say about the warning of not using silicone on rubber (not because it kills it but will affect its performance in holding bb) Many chemicals can degrade rubber or cause it to swell but swelling rubber is just a tempory fix as it will return to its worn state eventually we can swell the rubber at work to bring rubber back to life but doesn't last for very long replacement is the real answer for worn parts I'm sure we all will agree on that Also there is is this myth that one thing will do it all - very rarely the case various items will require different things to keep them running smooth and silicone and Isopropyl on their own is not the one and only thing to use Think we all agree that less is more and the only thing that should be applied in large quantity when doing quick clean or quick service or even a full rebuild is Basic Common Sense - alas you can't just buy this off the shelf But keep it clean and don't go nuts I think is the general message I think

OK I am 47yrs young and my profession is in the print industry - Print Finishing to be exact Using Polar guillotine is where lots of paper is cut and though has airbeds a polished airbed really helps when moving stacks or reams of sometimes big heavy paper...... Now you can use Pledge or Mr Sheen but trust me a spray of silicone and wipe pi$$es over anything else On Folding machines - Stahl/Heidelberg & MBO the paper is folded in plates, it slips up plate forms fold and then slips out of plate 99.9999999999999999999999999999999999999999% with old traditional lithograpgic printed sheets it works fine BUT recently Digital printing is getting more and more common. Trouble with Digital printing is STATIC - and I mean this $hit is weird this static can cause drag and bizarre crap to happen that you would never see on litho.... The electric silicone solenoid spray system I knocked up saved us running up and down spraying the crap out of folder plates & rollers - these are metal & rubber btw so I know silicone we used didn't destroy the rubber segments of the rollers - anyway this bastic job was a digitially printed closed or double Gatefold - one of the more trickier folds to do requiring a special Gatefold plate - we have 3 of these expensive plates coz we do crap that other places don't like to touch. It is a little critical in setting up - even speed of machine can mess up a working machine - as machine speeds up centrifugal force actually causes the rubber on rollers to increase pressure (if you set pressure on a still machine lightly - the pressure in increased when she starts to run - but even pressure) The silicone device was used on gatefold to very lightly spray with very very fine droplets the bastid and ensure the paper slipped up the folding plate with no drag - if drag took place paper would travel the ammount and fold would be incorrect - and it worked really really well to get us out of the $hit - no I am no enginneer or the only experienced or clever bloke at my firm - all of them are the best people I have ever worked with and we all bring stuff to the table as the saying goes - we all are brilliant at problem solving...... Sorry about massive ramblings but just trying to show what I have based my theory on Silicone will not be answer to world peace or make you more attractive to opposite sex but it is good in my book at reducing drag - this does not last a liftetime as we need to spray folder very regularly and on guillotine after say an hour or so another spray will help keep the stock moving smoothly on airbed It will not last in an AEG all day - think it will start to dissapear or lose effectiveness probably after 1 or 2 games and I have said used sparingly - you do not pour any stuff into gun and hope for best - a pool of even the best polish will just increase drag - so c'mon use some common sense as well as any cleaner Also use anything too much - even best synthetic oils and it will attract dust dirt etc and dirt & lubricant together is much worse than too little so to speak - hence I have said use any cleaner or lubricant sparingly I have said use on barrel - AFTER rubber or bucking coz it will probably not hold bb in place if it is as slippery as $hit, so on hop-up I would not use it WD40 might be ok to help if hop-up gears have become stiff or siezed but again keep use sparingly coz you do not want this either on bucking and I "think" it is petroleum based and that may degrade the rubber if used or used too much Silicone or Lithium Grease and gearbox - well I don't know too much about that yet, but the stuff would be good to use on gear shafts, bearings and gears even to reduce heat or wear - yes it may attract dust & dirt but in general the gearbox is sealed - not airtight but not wide open to easily attract loads of crap. But is sealed and inside receiver all the same so a good amount of grease may not be a bad thing in my book. Whilst it may not always lubricate like it swimming it a batch of oil it will help to reduce friction and heat which is in effect reducing wear - but nothing lasts for ever we can only help to maintain and reduce wear & tear on our guns As I said use any $hit sparingly, and apply a good coat of common sense when doing this kind of stuff They saying "if it ain't broke don't try to fix it" comes to mind but no maintenance is not a good idea either I do feel silicone in barrel and applied with cue-tip - not dripping with silicone but slightly damp and rod carefully down barrel will help clean and reduce a bit of drag - but I am not going to run scientific tests just yet but going on my gut feeling and what experiences I have found Rubber - NO like I said Hop-up - not needed yet buy "maybe" a bit of WD40 carefully perhaps if gears are sticking - ffs go easy though Like I said rodding barrel may also be pushing some dirt back down barrel but you do get some dirt out so it may help I think - but this quick cleaning we should perhaps do very often is never the same as a total strip-down & clean, grease rebuild etc..... But as long as you go easy and sparingly use any stuff in the appropriate place in modest amounts it should help keep you gun working effeciently for longer without a strip down Sorry for ramblings but trying to demonstrate why and how I have my beliefs or methods or based my findings on

Not gonna get into another row or debate on this subject I said in beginning I am still a noob to some airsoft stuff but do have a number of years of wisdom I have aquired along the way I wasn't using oil as most people preception but pure silicone liquid lightly on a que-tip I use it at work and know how it does greatly reduce drag This is still in effect an oil but is used a polishing agent which mildly cleans dirt & dust Alchohol or Isopropyl is a cleaner - but that is all it is and evaporates but will not reduce drag except for removing any dirt that may cause extra drag - it will not do much else Also on the subject of cleaning - most of this I am taking as a quick light regular clean In effect without stripping down the top - just giving a quick squirt or rodding a cloth down barrel could be in effect just pushing some crap back into barrel rather than proper removal of it if gun was dismantled then you could clean barrel properly one side to other to ensure all dirt is properly removed and barrel cleaned as best as possible But my feeling is in many cases we are just doing a little bit of quick regular maintenence to get the majority of gunk that may in there and also perhaps keep hop-up gears turning so it remains adjustable when required Bucking or rubber - leave alone unless gun is really playing up - in which case then an overhaul And like I said - different chemicals for different purposes and used sparingly too if required OK lets just forget this subject - we have numerous difference of opinions.... funny I said that as well ask 10 people etc...... Lets agree to disagree slightly then and call it a day

So WD40 eats plastic ??? really - I didn't think it was corrosive as well like I said I haven't bothered with hop-up, but said use sparingly yup got blunt needles for refilling ink carts or CISS systems on printers but then could always use the tube/straw that comes with WD40 or the other half of the cue-tip to apply a few drops on gears of hop-up some products may be better than others and some should not be used for certain areas but then letting certain parts run dry as bone is not good gun maintenance either suppose if you ask 10 people what and where to use stuff you will get at least 5 different answers

Difference of opinion again...... Already said Silicone & WD40 are not same but are slightly similar but used for different things WD40 has been silicone free since first invented - says on tin it is NOT a lubricant but oddly states in a few examples of use: Stops squeaks Penetrates and LUBRICATES hinges castors springs..... Frees sticky mechanisms: Un-jams and LUBRICATES door locks, zippers, sewing machines AK47's OK I put the AK47 bit in - but that is what it says on the tin it is designed to help free seized rusted bolts etc but in its own way helps to ease and lubricate slightly it is not a high melting point oil or grease but does HELP to keep things moving Hop-up - already said I haven't used stuff on mine yet, but if your hop-up adjustment is a bit stiff then I reckon a tiny amount of WD40 won't be a bad idea to free it up and assist it keep any lube away from rubber bucking - don't want it slipping out end of barrel

Silicone is ok on smooth metal surfaces - apllied and polished there is no drag or resistance we use it all the time at work - greatly reduces drag as you are not gonna be able to buffer and polish barrel perfectlt I said a bit on cotton bud don't go mad and any excess will get pushed out and should be fine after say 50 bb's Rubber - nope like I said was my feeling Hop-up - hmm maybe but WD40 might be better - still a tiny tiny bit to gears But silicone on metal is not bad thing in my book, it really helps stuff to glide over the polished metal surface

Exactly how I feel about the Bull$hit BB's they seem fine for me atm so will use them up and decide later what/if I try others They seem ok - pretty accurate and that is what matters in the end

Yup I will go with that - white slicone grease or similar for gearbox Silicone - very slippery stuff but use very carefully - barrel yup hop-up - maybe a tiny bit but rubber maybe see if you really need it & just a minute bit if you do yes there are loads of various type/make/spec of silicone liquids just like Isopropyl - the wipes/swabs are 70% + 30 % distilled water but you can get pure or 99% alchohol/Isopropyl in bottles think maybe WD40 for hop-up gears might be better than silicone - leave rubber alone barrel silicone any surface polished or wiped with silicone will be very slippery wd40 & silicone are not the same - they are a tiny bit similar but each has their benefits/uses they work best for anything is better than nothing at a push but just go easy is my thoughts wityh these lubricants gearbox is a different matter though

BB's included - NO Lunch - hmmm dunno: TWA full day walk on - NO Young Guns Chobham - YES - some kind of chilli & beans potatoe stew stodge but grub all the same Hmmm - them mags, did think about trying them but thought they may not be easy to use with gloves on Just get used to winding mag when you behind cover and unless you have a really itchy trigger you will most likely choose your shot rather than spray n pray all the time and need constant winding Some mag winders seem to be more ergonomic than others - but unless you are supplying supressing fire you will probably find you won't go too mad unless you need to and just get used to winding when in cover (think everybody has failed to wind enough and get shot for their mistakes) Can use mid caps - not as quick to fill up, need a speed loader- some better than others but you never need to wind a low or mid cap - mid cap can go up to about 180-ish some say 190 mid cap but couldn't seem to get much more than 165 in mine - but 165 bb's no winding Never played there so can't say - times can really vary but a ROUGH guide: get there for sign in by 9:00am game play or breifing starts at 9:30am - long briefing then 10:00 game starts Lunch dunno 12:30 ish until 1:00 or 1:30pm Game resumes and finish about 4:00pm These are only rough guides you really gotta check site or ring them to confirm

Barrel - I have used a cotton bud or cue-tip as yanks would say taped to a think stick or unjamming rod, tip of cotton bud moderately coated with silicone and can drop in barrel applying a layer of slicone to length of it I have a very thin bit of tubing that is just right for stick of cotton to wedge into (cut the cotton bud in two and wedge it in very thin tube or tape to small thin cane or jamming rod) spray sliicone onto cotton bud and run down barrel seems to work for me and seems to be right size unless you got a really big set of ears and use jumbo cue-tips/buds Hop-up - hmm a light spray on gear or mechanism perhaps but would never go nuts or it on bucking but hop up - hardly adjust it and seems ok atm - so kind of scared to go too mad with silicone in case it goes perhaps where it shouldn't - but don't take this as gospel as I am still a noob myself Just think you don't want a slippery bucking too much Silicone won't damage rubber - but it is so very slippery and if you go too mad it stays slippery as f*ck for quite a while (we have spilt it on floor at work and blow me it is like an ice rink - really dangerous and need lots of hot soapy soapy washing up liquid as it is a degreaser to clear it up) Rubber parts of machines have been coated in it and all still ok - but I would advise go easy with it as you don't need much May not know a hell of lot about gun maintainence but I know a bit about that slippery bastid - Silly Con See what others say as well coz I would like to learn more about keeping my AEG in good order too

Second Hand Galaxy MP5 on here - very pleased A "slightly" warm CO2 pistol - little cracker And at parcelforce depot awaiting for me to pay duty & admin: 2 x Stubby fixed M4 stocks & 3 x Hi Cap 450rnd M4 mags Royal Mail - robbing bastids Just gotta find a place to hide some of this or other half is gonna do her nut - again

I think this might sting a bit though 1664 fps ffs !!! No $hit - was first shot on a brand new CO2 cartridge pistol with .20g bb's I thought no way - where's my phone - where's my phone before she auto off Is cool though after 2nd or 3rd shot she came down to 300's but jeez that could kill or very seriously injure somebody..... I have been playing with my new toy this afternoon and no more silly stuff like that even with a fresh new co2 cartridge but thought I would share a wtf pic

Normally cheap nasty 0.12g's have a very visable join in them making them untrue spheres this can jam guns especially decent guns with a decent tight-ish barrel use crap bb's and they can jam on even non-tight barrels these bb's are for spring pinkers with massive crappy bore barrels The bubbles - I think it must be a bad batch or bad supplier people may have bought from Saw the Bull$hit post with bubbles and not seen bubbles myself in my tubs of white & black so maybe Bull$hit stopped buying them from a supplier and sourced elsewhere There was a recent version or gen 3 lot of bb's they were starting to sell around Easter so maybe BullDog moved onto another supplier ???? And maybe another company or two bought from the Aero BB supplier if they kind of work then carry on with caution but if you get lots of jimmy's - dribbling out or more than just the odd jam then STOP USING THESE COZ THEY WILL MESS UP YOUR GUN

The sites usually do decent deals - TWA do 5k SRC for either £9 or £10 I'm sure somebody would of split a bag with you if you was that pushed But always buying is smaller qty you get less for more money and postage can be a hidden 8itch on top too Even sites like OnlyBBGuns that do free shipping on anything are expensive of just a bag of BB's (They ain't stupid or we would all buy small qty bb's from places like that) yeah that poster above said about: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4000-0-2g-proball-high-quality-profeshional-airsoft-bbs-0-20g-/131168522180?pt=UK_SportingGoods_OtherSports&hash=item1e8a40cfc4 might be worth a go if you are pushed try them - they may be ok like he says

phew - hopefully I wasn't BullShitting too much then soz everyone for getting out my pram a bit - just tried to help

I know that the actual Voltage regulator components - the ST make can take a hell lot more volts than you would expect Some can take up to 30v dc and output to 9v - that is quite a bit of tolerance - but each regulator will have its own pdf These are static regulators - there are variable regulators but only needed this type of volt reg & a few capacitors to stabilise it I have researched this stuff when putting together some electronic circuits so I do know a tiny little bit And is true when input voltage gets close to output voltage eg: 5.5v input for a 5v output is bad coz output drops to 4.5v - the regulator circuit don't work too good Boring bit and completely off-topic but one project was taking a 18v psu & outputting to 12v & 5v supplys 12v was counter with npn photcell that would trigger a custom batch the pulse from say 100 batch would then trigger a 5v MOSFET - think that was Negative MOSFET - they come in both types The 5v MOSFET would activate a solenoid air valve at 18v to spray a silicone lubricant onto the machine to keep it running smooth The time or number of objects passing counter could be adjusted and the dwell or delay in the pulse signal for long or shorter spray (as well as an air regulator for the badger spray gun filled with silicon & repostition or add another spray gun) They above saved machine operator ( ME ) running up & down with expensive cans of silicon instead cheaper bulk 5 litre can would last a lifetime Health & Safety - proper ventilation was required as silicon breathing is not good but allowed us to precisely control silicon to minimun - operator free (plastic sheets were used to keep mist away from us but in the end it was so little being used to get job done) Sorry - I know nothing I will just shut up to avoid giving wrong advice No I an not an electrical enginneer but always tinkered with electrics/soldering/programming before i bought my ZX81

Ok guys cheers for replies just Krylon through post would be over a tenner and some places seem to charge a bit more than others for postage Think I will continue with a few careful thin coats of PlastiKote and see how she goes for now time will tell - but hey under a fiver will do me for the moment

post delelted as I got it off my chest and all that not gonna get into a row as I am still new but was only trying to help unless anyone has the exact same model and wants to run tolerance tests No I do not know but I am not gonna say YES IT WILL WORK WITH ANY VOLTAGE THAT WOULD BE THE WRONG ANSWER I said it might and check hell I don't give a crap if he pays another £25 or so for a shut the f*ck up psu he should still check polarity or his now £100 voltage kit could be a bit of a mess Most chargers or psu have the center as the Positive pin/socket Nope I best shut up coz I don't know what I am on about You win - I don't wanna get banned just yet if I really speak my mind

Sorry if this has been asked many many times No doubt Krylon is the best - should be for price But is it really that good - as probably looking at spraying some bits UKARA is a fortnight away - so understand if this is techy subject atm Ok - Screwfix have PlastiKote Matt Black reduced to £4:55 I have spayed up one base coat atm of a battery front handguard (lawyers please note I haven't broken any law yet - refit to gun yes maybe but atm I am just doing an art project) Ok gonna give it at least another coat maybe two but as I am trying to make a decent looking job of it - start spraying say 8 inches from gun and pre-spray 3 inches from area making sweeping strokes across the area & 3 inches past it and finish etc all that technique stuff Now probably gonna use up a bit more paint with all pre-spraying and numerous light coats rather than one thick coat and probably full off runs etc..... What I was wondering after say 3 thin coats would it be much more prone to chipping and looking crap & all that So maybe if PlastiKote isn't up to job would a final coat of Krylon be worth it or a tough matt varnish/laquer ??? PlastiKote = £4:55 at local ScrewFix Krylon = probably no gonna get much change out of £15 with shipping as many local places don't stock it So PlastiKote is about a third of price of Krylon so could go nuts putting down a few nice coats and maybe a final Krylon top coat if required - presume these 2 paints would be ok on top of each other Both made in USA for what it is worth, I'm sure Krylon is better as is used for camo etc... just wondering how good and is it worth it on top of 3 coats of PlastiKote Any experienced sprayers out there confirm or share any info please - fanx in advance btw

RED & BLACK leads that go into XT60 and then back to crocadile leads - remove as you don't use them for your battery your battery - charge lead is tiny white plug - be careful as pins are tiny in charger your white lead - 3 tiny pins on 7.4v - goes into the white socket at side maybe ? there is a 4 pin socket = 11.1v - ground + 3 x cells of 3.7v each = 11.1v volt you got 7.4v - 2 cells of 3.7v = & gorund = 3 wires black, blue & red first time use I would trickle charge it myself - say a 1amp charge for first charge BUT as with all charging you should put it on say an old workbench - or kitchen worktop AND KEEP AN EYE ON IT You maybe should use a LiPo charger bag to reduce risk of heat or fire - bit ott but is there as a precaution Batteries can get hot - some more than others but I tend to trickle charge them unless I am in hurry NEVER put a battery on say your bed or carpet floor to be to charge - something a bit fireproof like a formica worktop - not bed or carpet LiPo charge bag - well if you are gonna charge it and not keep a close eye on it but then a watched pot never boils as the saying goes Use common sense - don't put it on floor/bed and go out for evening worktop bench and keep checking it on a regular basis yeah I should use LiPo bag but I ain't got one so keep an eye on it is better in my book

Well that settles it - I if I see a big black bloke I am shooting him then All I was saying this is contact sport of a sort, and I would accept somebody touching me - ooh yes please touching with hand - knife, light-sabre, rampant rabbit etc.... as I see it if a guy made it to me all stealth and could touch with a tap of hand he deserves to get kill not being a knife - well in real terms he could pistol whip me or use a 4x2 bit of wood etc... BUT the guy would of well n truely had me and could make proper contact.... As for just taking hand off receiver - surely it would use less to just pull the trigger ??? What I don't agree with is just saying it rather than doing it - making contact I am not getting into a row over this as we all have a difference of opinion - and just splitting hairs but their is a line in what we will agree and disagree what is a kill I said earlier about contact being made rather than bang b0ll0cks and if guy taps me on shoulder - yup ok I am dead - where the fudge did he come from I would then think but yup you deffo had me there m8 is what I would mutter as I call myself out Knife kill might be more realistic but in realistic terms how can a medic revive me so quickly if I got shot through heart?? ok getting way off topic once again but this is a pretend sport we play - or we would need a LOT of body bags each weekend if you tap me on shoulder... Oh - are a dead team mate respawning ??? No m8 - I'm enemy - YOU ARE DEAD Damn it - who had the back FFS ??? ( - but I would call it like I said )

like I said charger will PROBABLY work within range of 10 to 15v the positive is most likely the center pin polarity - very important to check the size of connector may or not be the same size but it is a common fitting so you may find something lying around laptop chargers though can be anywhere from 15v to 20v usually my acer is a 19v & fujitsu is a 20v - which might be pushing it a bit maybe an old pc or tv lcd may have a 12v seperate psu (some older tv/monitors had a psu rather than mains cable) if you get stuck & may go to LWA then lmk or pm me & will try to help ya out like I said

I've seen them but didn't realise they did all batteries and took mains and dc input not a bad price too looking at all leads you get and the cloverleaf mains lead too (is that 11v to 15v dc input or 11 to 18v dc input it says on input side - like I said there is a bit of give n take on dc input) might have got one if I had known before hand now ended up with 2 x smart NiMH chargers and 2 x 7.4v/11.1v lipo's plus 1 x 7.4v lipo To the OP - if you are going to TWA Saturday - I will loan ya battery for the day and loan you my 7.4v lipo charger until next time or just a 12v psu that should fit your one, the NetGear 12v 1500mah you can borrow it should fit I mean stone me you have gone a bit nutz & if you still need to get a psu - jeez Serious genuine offer - I will be there in morning dropping off my son and probably playing in afternoon